# Quarantine Tank 101?



## [KRAFTIG] (Apr 19, 2017)

So what is the bare minimum and optimal setup requirements? Once inside, how long do you quarantine? And what is the required treatment(s)? TIA!


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## Crayon (Apr 13, 2014)

Everyone has a different way to qt. some people like TTM. (Tank transfer method). Some people have success with setting up an instant 10 gallon tank and chucking in a seeded sponge as soon as a new fish comes home.
I have not had success with either method. Fish can come with all sorts of issues, not just ich. Understanding what they need to survive requires some knowledge of what issues they may be starting with and how to treat them.
My qt tank is a permanently running tank that has some way of maintaining a bacterial culture. I use a marine pure block in one, or bio balls in the other. Plus a bit of rock. No sand. I can add a hang on back skimmer if needed. Minimal light if any. I think a qt less than 15 gallons is too small, but that's my opinion and I know a lot of people who do 10 gallon qt tanks with success. I can't.
The first issue of bringing a fish home is checking salinity. Most stores keep their tanks hyper salinity, which means you need to be able to adjust your qt to match salinity of the water in the bag. Do not try and drip acclimate a fish up to 1.026 if it's been living at 1.018. Max movement of salinity is 0.02 to 0.04 points per day (my rule of thumb, not necessarily anyone else's)
Temperature acclimation is easy. Float the bag.
Sometimes you also need to check PH. This is important if the fish has been shipped and has been in the bag for 24 hours or longer. I use Prime to knock the ammonia out in the bag right away if the fish was shipped.
The next hurdle is dealing with ammonia in the qt tank. This is really only a factor if it's a new quarantine tank and there is no bacteria in the system to be able to convert the ammonia but it's important to watch. I find the ammonia badges are not accurate enough to rely on, as even a small amount of ammonia for a stressed fish can be a killer.
Fortunately I can run auto water changes, so this helps to keep a fresh stream of new salt water coming into the tank if I need to.
After the first day of observation, if the fish are active, I start feeding lightly and looking for apparent signs of disease. Most diseases are not apparent. But sometimes you might pick out white spots, cloudy eyes, super skinny fish, red marks, heavy breathing, etc etc etc.

After observation and once I see the fish eating, if needed I begin a treatment protocol, depending on what kind of fish and their apparent health I could be treating for ich, velvet or brook, flukes, uronema and worms. Or all of this, or only some of this.

Read the big US forums for their various treatment options and best meds. I also read wet web media. It's a bit of a tough forum to navigate, but there is some really good info.

I also have a tendency to start treatments with very low doses and build it up to full strength over three or four days. I don't start at full strength, generally 1/4 strength.

Qt for me lasts about 6 weeks. I want fat fish before they go in to the display.

What I've posted is my POV, and is not necessarily industry standard and there may be some people who disagree with my procedures. However they usually work for me. 

This is just a starting point for you to think about how you want to deal with quarantining for yourself.


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## [KRAFTIG] (Apr 19, 2017)

Thank you sir I appreciate the feedback.


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## CamH (Jan 5, 2014)

You could skip the quarantine process and buy your fish from Carl's Aquarium. He's a member on here. Check out his website:

http://carlsaquarium.com/index.html

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## [KRAFTIG] (Apr 19, 2017)

So he does the work for you. Can you place a fish order or request? How long does he QT the fishes for?


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## CamH (Jan 5, 2014)

He does them for 3 weeks and medicates them. Contact him about orders


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## [KRAFTIG] (Apr 19, 2017)

Thank you sir


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## twobytwo (Oct 25, 2014)

Crayon has a very good Qt regimen. PS not a sir lol

I do not like TTM, I QT almost everything. Fish, corals and most inverts. Much of my response is based on Fish QT...

Basics would be a tank, heater, some form of filtration.

I've used 10g-40g as QT's. I like the 40 because it obviously gives more room, especially to bigger fish you may need to QT. The good and bad is volume - you need more saltwater for the tank and would require more meds if you use them. Although more volume makes it easier to QT multiple fish at the same time and might lessen the impact of things like nitrite and ammonia. A 20g is a good option, you can get long ones if a fish needs more footprint than height.

I usually keep some rubble rocks in my sump, as well as a sponge (magic eraser) or two, and ideally have a QT going for at least a week. If you know your display is problem free (or that you'll be dosing things like copper) using leftover water from a water change can help save making new saltwater. Just keep in mind most of the bacteria will be in rock and sponges, not the water. I will admit that I have set up QT's and introduced fish with a day or two - though I would also add bottled bacteria.

I use the ammonia badges but I don't think they really work. You can get a Salifert Ammonia kit for under $20.

I use a HOB filter and usually till put the seeded magic eraser in it. Sponge filters are ok as a cheap option. I also have an air pump with a bubble stick or airstone to add circulation.

With fish, I usually just observe for a week and make sure they are eating. I'll feed food soaked in Vitamin/Amino Acids like Selcon and add some Garlic to make sure fish are eating. I prophylactically(<- had to google the spelling) administer meds - some people only do when they spot problems. Prazipro and Paraguard are usually the first products I use. Now it's about 2 weeks in... Then usually I do Cupramine - I have a test kit to monitor the strength. I remove any rocks if I use Cupramine. I let that go for another 2-3 weeks. Then a water change and add some carbon and observe for another week.

For Corals, I do a dip and then the go in the frag tank for at least 2 weeks. Inverts are about the same though some just seem to like the frag tank so i leave them there haha


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## carl (Feb 11, 2010)

I qt for three weeks and then only sell the fish if it's fat and healthy, I take requests but there are some fish I don't sell


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## [KRAFTIG] (Apr 19, 2017)

twobytwo said:


> Crayon has a very good Qt regimen. PS not a sir lol
> 
> I do not like TTM, I QT almost everything. Fish, corals and most inverts. Much of my response is based on Fish QT...
> 
> ...


Some great info there. THanks.


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## [KRAFTIG] (Apr 19, 2017)

carl said:


> I qt for three weeks and then only sell the fish if it's fat and healthy, I take requests but there are some fish I don't sell


How long does it usually take if I place an order? What don't you sell and why? TIA


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## carl (Feb 11, 2010)

I don't sell fish that don't do well in captivity. When you place an order it depends on when that fish shows up on a list how long it takes


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