# Controlling Nitrates



## unk3wl (Dec 2, 2013)

Hi, I have a 110 gallon cichlid tank with about 25-30 mixed cichlids, ranging in size between 2-5 inches. Tank has been running for 6 months with no issues, fish seem happy, no real aggression. Water test always 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites, and nitrates in the last month or so have been in the 40-80 range steadily. I do weekly water changes of 30-40%. I guess my question is, is their a way to lower the nitrates without more frequent water changes? Should I worry about it if it is not affecting the fish? All fish look good colour wise and are very active. Will more filtration help? Currently running an Eheim 2217 with two internal filters and two AC70 with polishing filter.


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## mistersprinkles (Nov 4, 2013)

unk3wl said:


> Hi, I have a 110 gallon cichlid tank with about 25-30 mixed cichlids, ranging in size between 2-5 inches. Tank has been running for 6 months with no issues, fish seem happy, no real aggression. Water test always 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites, and nitrates in the last month or so have been in the 40-80 range steadily. I do weekly water changes of 30-40%. I guess my question is, is their a way to lower the nitrates without more frequent water changes? Should I worry about it if it is not affecting the fish? All fish look good colour wise and are very active. Will more filtration help? Currently running an Eheim 2217 with two internal filters and two AC70 with polishing filter.


The best thing you can do to keep nitrates down is more frequent water changes.

Instead of every 7 days, try every 3 days. That ought to about cut your nitrates in half. You can also use various products.

*Nitrazorb*
*DIY denitrifying filter *(Seachem matrix, prefilter, super super slow flow rate)
*Aquaripure nitrate filter* (never used one but I've heard they work. It's a little canister you hook up to your tank. Needs to be fed with vodka (I think) once in a while)

http://www.aquaripure.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=52

Considering what you're getting, IMO, Aquaripures are viciously overpriced. 
They do apparently work, though.

Still, nothing beats more frequent water changes. Are you using a python? You should consider one if you don't have one. It makes W/C's on a tank that size very easy.


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## Ryan s (Jun 18, 2012)

I'm no expert, but you can try this.

http://www.seachem.com/Products/product_pages/Purigen.html


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## mistersprinkles (Nov 4, 2013)

Ryan s said:


> I'm no expert, but you can try this.
> 
> http://www.seachem.com/Products/product_pages/Purigen.html


That stuff does control nitrates and it also polishes water which is a great bonus.


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## Ryan s (Jun 18, 2012)

Yes, from what I have seen on the reviews of this product, it's really good.



mistersprinkles said:


> That stuff does control nitrates and it also polishes water which is a great bonus.


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## darkangel66n (May 15, 2013)

Or you could just forgo the chemicals and do more/bigger water changes.


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## pyrrolin (Jan 11, 2012)

are there any floating plants that might help?


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## unk3wl (Dec 2, 2013)

Thanks for the replies, that Purigen looks interesting, may look into that. i do realize that more frequent changes will help, but that is what I am trying to avoid if possible, but may end up doing just that if necessary.
The aquaripure looks like a good option too, a little pricey though. It looks like there are a few options to look into, so thanks for the replies.


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## unk3wl (Dec 2, 2013)

No floating plants, have a couple java ferns and swords.


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## colio (Dec 8, 2012)

Frogbit can be your friend in this, it is a great nitrate sucker, propagates well in most set-ups (although I think it is adverse to surface current), and is good and hardy. Don't let the old plants rot though or the dissolved nitrates with be re-introduced into the aquarium. If it grows well, throw a bit out now and then.

As an alternative, the best choice might be to reduce your stocking level in the tank, or feed the fish less. Nitrates are a bo-produce of fish wastes and the nitrogen cycle. So less fish and less food = less nitrates.


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## BillD (Jun 5, 2006)

You would have more benefit from larger water changes rather than more frequent. The stated amount of 30% to 40% isn't a large change by any means. Clearly it is no longer enough.


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## unk3wl (Dec 2, 2013)

How much would be an acceptable level, 50%? Can I change more than that? I always fill a big plastic container, 50 Gallon or so, with water, temperature matched within a degree or two and add the prime to the container as it is filling. While it is filling, I siphon tank water into an identical sized container. I then proceed to pump the new water into the tank with a pump. Then I pump the old water into the sink.


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## pyrrolin (Jan 11, 2012)

50 percent is fine in an established tank. Record nitrate levels and work out how much and how often is needed to keep nitrates in control. I am lucky that I don't have any tanks that get high nitrates really fast.


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## unk3wl (Dec 2, 2013)

Ok thanks, I will try that this week when I do my water change, going to need some bigger plastic containers. I also think I am going to get some Seachem Purigen and throw that in the filter as well. Everything I've read, seems to be positive, with regards to removing waste and toxins that form nitrites and nitrates.


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## SKurj (Oct 26, 2011)

Nothing wrong with big water changes, you can even go to 75% if you want, your fish will get used to it. But another option would be to do several 50% changes within a week, lets say 3 and that would hammer down your nitrates and then you could do 50% a week and watch the levels. Once they creep up to a point you aren't happy with, do the multiple 50% over a few days. (simple math)

I am trying purigen in my 180g, and so far nitrates are barely perceptible with the API test kit, but! the tank is lightly stocked and has been running for not even a month yet. (Psst its not a chemical)

There are some plants you can grow outside the tank with roots in the tank to reduce nitrates.. not looked into those myself...

Oops can't quite tell from the description of your water change process.. do you remove everything you are going to before you start adding new? (you should)


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## unk3wl (Dec 2, 2013)

Yes, thanks for the reply, I always take out everything before adding the new water. And the Purigen is cystal like, kept in a fine mesh bag, which can be placed in the canister filter if I'm not mistaken? Trying to avoid the multiple water changes as my time is somewhat limited, so will try a large water change next and 50% weekly, with some Purigen in the filter and I will report back findings next week after I change the water.


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## Y2KGT (Jul 20, 2009)

Remember the nitrogen cycle. The more you feed the more nitrates are produced at the end of the cycle. Either feed a little bit less or get rid of the poop before it has a chance to be converted. 

How often do you clean your filters? Filters are a nitrate machine if you don't keep them clean. I would personally add another canister and remove the internal filters. I have at least 2 large canisters on each of my big tanks. I clean them at least every three months but I also do weekly 40% water changes to keep the nitrates down. 

Long term exposure to high nitrates will eventually weaken your fish and possibly make them more susceptible to disease. 

--
Paul


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## unk3wl (Dec 2, 2013)

Now that seems like the schedule i want to keep, I guess I will look for another canister. i clean my filter once a month. When I clean my filter I don't scrub it or anything, just rinse out all the media, in old aquarium water and rinse/change sponge pads/floss as necessary, is this sufficient cleaning of the filter?


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## mistersprinkles (Nov 4, 2013)

unk3wl said:


> Now that seems like the schedule i want to keep, I guess I will look for another canister. i clean my filter once a month. When I clean my filter I don't scrub it or anything, just rinse out all the media, in old aquarium water and rinse/change sponge pads/floss as necessary, is this sufficient cleaning of the filter?


Once a month? Maybe change the floss every 2-4 weeks but you shouldn't need to be doing anything else monthly unless you have carbon to change. The biomedia almost never needs rinsing if you have decent mechanical filtration happening before the water hits the biomedia. coarse foam pads like the blue eheim pads or aquaclear foam can go several months before needing any cleaning IME.


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## BillD (Jun 5, 2006)

How often you need to clean a filter depends on the individual tank. You can't arbitrarily say a cannister shouldn't need cleaning monthly. Getting solids out of the tank (before they are broken down) will slow the rise in nitrate levels. Having the elements of the filter unclogged will allow them to function better biologically. Sponge elements, especially fine ones, can clog very quickly. Even the coarser reticulated sponges such as those used in AC filters can need weekly cleaning. Bio rings and noodles should always look relatively clean; rinsing them every time in tank water will do no harm. 
Bottom line is you have to determine correct maintenance of your tank, based on what is happening in your tank, not what someone says on a forum. If you are cleaning your elements monthly (or even weekly) and finding the sponges are dirty, than it is the right thing. Also, don't be afraid to vigorously squeeze sponges to get all the crud out of them. "Rinsing" them won't cut it. In my experience, AC filters, for example, would get extremely dirty in a week. Even sponge filters such as the Hydrosponge, which tend to have debris pile up beneath them, also catch a huge amount of fine stuff, and can plug very quickly. judge your need by your tank.
Also, keep in mind. whatever is in the filter is still in the tank.


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## unk3wl (Dec 2, 2013)

*Nitrate Update*

Ok, so over the last week, I have added a second Eheim 2217, in both 2217's I added a litre of Seachem Matrix and a 100ml pack of Purigen on top. I removed the internal filters, have a couple AC70 power heads circulating the water. I have done two 50% water changes over the week and a couple days after the last change my nitrates are at the 20-30 range, nice to see orange instead of red on the test kit for a change! Also the water has never looked clearer, I thought it was good before but it's like the fish are floating, not sure if that is the Purigen or a combination of everything but I am impressed. Thanks for all your input and am happy things are going in the right direction now.


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## seamusm (Oct 8, 2012)

Go to homedepot and buy a pothos plant in the garden section. get rid of the dirt, trim the roots and find a way to make your tank water flow thru the newly trimmed roots(works great in sumps but you dont have one). the plant will eat the nitrates and lower the levels within days. 

I have a 220 with 60-70 fish in it and I feed them like crazy. the plant takes my nitrates from 80-100 to 20-40 in a couple of days


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## bobbyjoe (Jan 30, 2013)

unk3wl said:


> Ok, so over the last week, I have added a second Eheim 2217, in both 2217's I added a litre of Seachem Matrix and a 100ml pack of Purigen on top. I removed the internal filters, have a couple AC70 power heads circulating the water. I have done two 50% water changes over the week and a couple days after the last change my nitrates are at the 20-30 range, nice to see orange instead of red on the test kit for a change! Also the water has never looked clearer, I thought it was good before but it's like the fish are floating, not sure if that is the Purigen or a combination of everything but I am impressed. Thanks for all your input and am happy things are going in the right direction now.


Purigen definately aids in keeping your water crystal clear.

I've got a 19 gallon with 12 yellow labs (2.5"-3") long, they're fed 3 times/day, I'd consider my tank overstocked, I do 40% water changes every WED. and gravel clean every SAT. (40% as well), nitrates consistantly stay 20 and under. 
As for filters, my AC70 Sponge is rinced weekly/every 10 days and my Aqueon 30, which is used for mechanical only, floss is changed weekly.


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## unk3wl (Dec 2, 2013)

*sad side note...*

unfortunately, using the ac70 powerheads was not such a good idea as they sucked up 4 fish in a couple days...i put the round cone shaped attachment on the bottom and put some sponge inside thinking that would be enough to keep the fish out, the next morning i find a 3 inch cobalt zebra hanging out of one cone and a 3 inch rusty hanging out of the other 

so i put more sponge in until it is sticking a bit out the bottom, the next morning a pleco and a syno cat are stuck to the cone 

out they go, replaced with hydor 425's but they aren't quite powerful enough but at least the water is moving and the fish are safe...live and learn..


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## SKurj (Oct 26, 2011)

eh...

I have a 1050 gph koralia in a tank with fish mostly under 2"... never lost a fish to a powerhead..


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## blackmajik (Jan 23, 2014)

bobbyjoe said:


> Purigen definately aids in keeping your water crystal clear.
> 
> I've got a 19 gallon with 12 yellow labs (2.5"-3") long, they're fed 3 times/day, I'd consider my tank overstocked, I do 40% water changes every WED. and gravel clean every SAT. (40% as well), nitrates consistantly stay 20 and under.
> As for filters, my AC70 Sponge is rinced weekly/every 10 days and my Aqueon 30, which is used for mechanical only, floss is changed weekly.


Read that Purigen and those slime coat products don't mix very well and will make Purigen toxic.


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## unk3wl (Dec 2, 2013)

yes I read that too, i only use Prime, which is fine with Purigen


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## pyrrolin (Jan 11, 2012)

if you put sponge on the inside of the input of a power head, you are actually making the suction power higher on the spaces where water flows. If you put a sponge on the outside, you create a larger surface area thus lowering the suction on any one area.

It is odd for a power head to catch a fish. I wonder about the health of the fish that got caught. I have two circulation pumps in a tank that has some very small tiger barbs and never had a problem.


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## bobbyjoe (Jan 30, 2013)

blackmajik said:


> Read that Purigen and those slime coat products don't mix very well and will make Purigen toxic.


I don't use any slime coat products, just Prime and Purigen on top of my AC70.



unk3wl said:


> yes I read that too, i only use Prime, which is fine with Purigen


Agreed.


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