# 300gal Rebuild...



## wtac (Mar 17, 2006)

Following is the latest of my work that has spanned 10months since I was first called to commence a service plan for an installation completed by another company.

Obvious areas of concern were discovered upon initial inspection the system. Reports were submitted that needed to be addressed prior to me accepting the job. Not only is it my duty to report potential issues but to remove myself from any liability/issues with the installation.

Furthermore, I don't get involved whatsoever with what the client decides to do with the presented information that have been substantiated by 3rd party engineers and other service companies brought in to evaluate the system. There are three basic choices I give:

1) address the problems and we move forward
2) scrap it and put in a nice book shelf/entertainment unit in its place
3) find someone else if they wish to continue and address them as they occur. Been in this situation many times and I don't want/need the headache.

In the end this was the fate of the entire system. A shame we couldn't salvage the 8' long pane of Starfire glass:





The disturbing aspect was the stand build: 1/16" thick walls and not all the butt joints faces were welded. The stand swayed when we were working in the aquarium trying to separate the seams. The stand was easily carried out.



On to better things. The new stand. Hot dipped galvanized made with 3/8" thick walled square steel tube and a few cross braces for extra stiffness. Easily supports 3tonnes static load and 1000lb side "momentum impact". This simulates if a 200lb person accidentally slips and uses the aquarium structure to support himself. Design and specs approved by an engineer. The stand weighs over 500lbs.





Stand was placed on a 1/8" ABS sheet to create a pan where the base is doubled up to create a well. A generous bead of LePage QUAD was applied within a 2" perimeter to create a seal. Seams and galvanized dip holes were sealed with a rubberized grout compound. Reinforcing mesh imbedded in multiple layers of Liquid Rubber on inside corners.





The original aquarium had a single corner overflow. The new aquarium has the overflow at the centre back. The surface skim and the return plumbing is better suited for this system for even surface skimming and distribution of water from the return. Mounting the powerheads on the overflow wall serves a few purposes.

•	Can use smaller and lower GPH powerheads: pushing across <4' is better than 8'. 
•	Overall visual aesthetics: clean 3 side viewing area with no magnetic mounts on aquarium exterior







End result:



The cladding of the stand will be redone by their contractor to account for the taller stand which was required to make all the equipment accessible in the future.


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## sig (Dec 13, 2010)

10 images, but 10 months of work behind it... thanks for posting.

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## Taipan (Feb 12, 2012)

Subscribed.


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## FragCave (Dec 15, 2011)

Love it!!! you just think of everything which is great as I said before you are the man


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## fesso clown (Nov 15, 2011)

Tagging along....


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## wtac (Mar 17, 2006)

Starting from scratch, here is the new sump. Baffles on either side of the refugium section are black acrylic to block as much light from spilling into other compartments to minimize extraneous algae growth. Being a one man show, you have to be creative to get things done.







Finally set into place



With two 1.5" drain lines and an calculated return GPH range of 1200-1500gph from a Fluval Sea SP4, a 4-5x turnover rate will be achieved. With internal overflows a Herbie style overflow is preferable vs Bean Animal.



A Deltec SC2060 replaced the original skimmer. There was something not right about it and the answer we received was unsatisfactory. For the system size, anyone would expect better fit and finish from a product at any pricepoint. We got a feeling that if any reasons arose, we would be SOL.

Originally running, microbubbles leaked out of the connection.



After cutting off two Zip ties, there was braided hose I assume to help widen the barbed fitting.



What it should look like as per mfg from Advanced Aquarist site.



It was the right decision to use a different skimmer as our subsequent inquiries about this to the original installer went unanswered. Ken from SeaUMarine supplied us the skimmer so he'll take care of us should any issues arise.

The system was ran to test the core components. Now to get the original CaRx online.



As luck would have it, Mag7 recirc pump rattles like a rock tumbler and a leaky fitting. I had to wrap it in silicone tape to temporarily seal it.





Wife loved that I'm doing this on the island in the kitchen. Swopped it the pump out with a Sicce 3.0 and some replumbing work.





MUCH quieter but unfortunately ended up scrapping the CaRx as there is a slow leak at the pH port fitting. Not taking anymore chances with this CaRx&#8230;whatever brand it is.

More later...


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## sig (Dec 13, 2010)

are you using Weldon to glue lines, instead of regular PVC glue?

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## wtac (Mar 17, 2006)

WeldOn is just a brand of cements and solvents. Most recognized with acrylic constructs but they also make cements/solvents for PVC.


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## sig (Dec 13, 2010)

wtac said:


> WeldOn is just a brand of cements and solvents. Most recognized with acrylic constructs but they also make cements/solvents for PVC.


good to know. thanks

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## wtac (Mar 17, 2006)

There was an APEX system that was included with the original installation. Additional components were added to help in monitoring and control aspects of the system.

In this area is where the APEX will come in handy.



Float switch in the skimmer cup. When it gets full, the skimmer pump shuts off and send an email alert to both the client and myself. Handy if it overskims and prevents making a mess.



The ATO stuff.



To the left is the contained rats nest of wires from the2-level Autotopoff.com ATO float switch that was salvaged from the original build. That does the primary ATO function. 
Float switches and solenoids valves will jam or fail. When is at the most inconvenient of times. Taking advantage of the APEX system an I/O Breakout Box was added and a bunch of float switches. On the right you see two black bar float switches.

The lower senses if the ATO isn't filling, an email alert will be sent. In 24 hrs if left unattended, the return and skimmer pump will be shut off. The return pump will cycle on and off every hour for 5 mins just to keep the water cycling and filtered by the macroalgae refugium for as long as there is water to feed the pump.

The upper float switch will send an email alert that the water level in the sump is too high. This could be from the ATO solenoid not closing properly, the high level float switch on the ATO jammed/failed and/or the return pump has failed causing the water to rise and close the switch.

Above the upper float switch is a mechanical float where water from the ATO enters. This is the last line of defence if the ATO solenoid fails in closing. The mechanical float switch will shut off the water supply.

What you see in the upper middle area is a water transfer pump to pump out any accumulated water in the cabinet. This is important especially since the system is on the 2nd floor. Ideally a floor drain is best and the opportunity was missed when the residence was in construction. The APEX leak detector module and probes have been installed and if a seam failure occurs with the sump or any part of the plumbing fails, what is caught in the cabinet will be pumped out. The best that could be done factoring pump and plumbing size, distance, head height, obtrusiveness for the client/service personnel in the utility room, etc.


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## sig (Dec 13, 2010)

what are you using under pump, to shut vibration to the glass?

thanks

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## goldfish (Nov 22, 2011)

Very nice setup and preventive measures for the ATO and skimmer malfunction.

I will pm you soon.


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## fury165 (Aug 21, 2010)

Great info Wilson, looking forward to updates on this build.


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## wtac (Mar 17, 2006)

Sry to miss your post, sig. The Fluval SP4 comes with a base that has rubber feet. For a pump that pushes 1800GPH @0', it's VERY quiet.

I am pleasantly impressed by this pump but I don't expect anything less from an Askol motor block


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## sig (Dec 13, 2010)

wtac said:


> Sry to miss your post, sig. The Fluval SP4 comes with a base that has rubber feet. For a pump that pushes 1800GPH @0', it's VERY quiet.
> 
> I am pleasantly impressed by this pump but I don't expect anything less from an Askol motor block


Thank you Sir

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## ameekplec. (May 1, 2008)

wtac said:


> What you see in the upper middle area is a water transfer pump to pump out any accumulated water in the cabinet.


Is that the pressure booster pump there? Any particular reason for that pump vs, say a high volume peristaltic pump?


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## wtac (Mar 17, 2006)

Its a high flow delivery pump that is calculated to get about 10GPM with the run and head height.

Considering that its about 1/10th the cost of what I wanted to use and without getting into the nitty gritty, was an agreeable compromise.


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## fesso clown (Nov 15, 2011)

Interesting... so that booster pump is only for disaster and kicks in if there is a leak to pump out the stand? 

Why did you choose the Fluval over a Sicce Syncra Pro? The price point is actually pretty good on that Fluval but I always see you highly recommending Sicce pumps. 
Just curious because I am looking for something in the 12-1500GPH area. My 1262 is barely cutting it with everything I have manifolded... 

Looking good, I am very jealous of that skimmer but it needs the swabbie and auto-flush kit...lol.


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## wtac (Mar 17, 2006)

I just want to clarify that booster pumps and transfer pumps are different so that if anyone that wishes to do something similar, they aren’t going to be sorely disappointed when the situation arises . Realistically, it will only work for what is actually collected in the “panned” area of the stand and for what is solely my liability, the plumbing aspect. If the aquarium goes, that’s a different ballgame.

I’ve never used the Sicce Syncra Pro pumps but if they are anything like the Pentair/Rainbow Lifeguard Quiet Ones they rebrand, I’ll pass. The Sicce Syncra Silent pumps are very quiet but are a little hummy with the 4.0 and 5.0 models. 

For the flow rate (GPH) I wanted for the system factoring head height and fittings and noise, the Fluval SP4 is the best candidate with the legendary Askol motor block. The SP series have MPT/FPT port fitting so there is no need to MacGuyver connections with the proprietary quick connect fittings when the Max-Flo pond pumps were used many years ago.

I’d love nothing more than to add the SCH and AWD but space is limited within the cabinet and wire/tubing management is already a tight rats nest in the slotted conduit


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## fesso clown (Nov 15, 2011)

I think I am sold on the Fluval SP series. Where did you source it from? The seems to be quite a range of prices out there on the net...

Any updates?


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## wtac (Mar 17, 2006)

I ordered the SP4 from petsandponds.ca for $199.99+tx. I bought a few odds and ends that the order is over $200 up using to get the free shipping. I got in two days.

No updates but things are progressing smoothly. I should take some pics next time of there...I keep forgetting to take pics.


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## wtac (Mar 17, 2006)

I remembered taking some pics when I was there last week.

FTS
Pretty much an LPS and softie system. There were a few pieces of Red Monti Caps and even though I dip all the corals, they got munched on by Monti eating nudibranchs, even with subsequent dippings. Probably not frequently enough but will try again in a few months with local frags than imported.


Every 2-3 weeks I thin down the macro algae biomass.


I alternate in harvesting sectional strips, cutting with an Exacto blade. I trim the macro algae about 2-3" from the perimeter.


I know, *YAWN* but its what makes my life/job easier 

OK..some pic of better interest . Unforunately, I took the pics on my "smart" phone and the colors are quite blue under the Kessil LEDs

A pink Scoly that expands to about 5" in diameter


Green tree leather coral and Lobo brain coral


Green Microblastos from Alex of FragCave. They started out at 4-5heads back in March, IIRC.


Can't really see the feeding tentacles (Favites?) after adding a mixture of ReefRoids, Coral Frenzy and f/d Calanus. It looks bleached in spots but it's just the crazy rippling from the Kessils.


An odd Echino(?) I saw at NAFB. It's a unique greyish blue base with streaks of teal on the "skirt" and blotches around the "eyes". Curious if color will develop but grew from a quarter size lump to about a 2.5-3" span.


Forgive me on not keeping up on all the coral names and variants


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## duckhams (Oct 13, 2009)

Great choice of lighting, I love the kessils! monti-munching nudi's often lay little egg clusters that survive dipping, a soft toothbrush usually does the trick and the monti's bounce back fast. It feels wrong, but it works.


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## islanddave (Nov 6, 2012)

Beautiful tank.....it's really coming along nicely. Regarding the kessil.light rack. It looks like it's made from 80/20....did you source it locally or.order.online?

Dave


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## wtac (Mar 17, 2006)

It is 80/20 extruded Al. I ordered it from ICI Automation (?), one of their authorized resellers. They will cut to length and you only pay $/ft.


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