# 68 gallon BeanAnimal Setup/Design. HELP!



## duckhams

So after a LOT of trial and error with other tanks and setups, im now planning my next setup, a custom display tank with a BeanAnimal external overflow and a custom sump. Im hoping this will be the 'forever tank'. Ive played around with all sorts of different tank sizes and overflows and I think this one is going to be the best of all of it. I need a single system that will hold all my creatures and simplify my current "laboratory' (as my wife calls it) of tanks and setups.

I would like to house lots of SPS and a heavy bioload of fish, so the flow has to be up there filtration wise. I also need it to be as SILENT as possible, as this is in my home office and I want to limit as much noise as possible. (hence the beananimal overflow). 

Here is my general idea so far: 
68 Gallon / Trimless / Eurobraced 48 x 18 x 18 LxWxH
Centered External BeanAnimal 24 x 3 x 5 
1.25" groove cut down for water flow into overflow
1" bulkheads and pipe for drains. 
3/4" return lines - drilled in the eurobrace, not the back glass.

Sump:
24 x 14 x 16
2 Sections only. Drain/Skimmer Section : BAFFLES : Return Pump Section
External return pump (rated for 700-900 gph, giving me 600gph return flow at 4ft head pressure)


I am also thinking of building a stand and canopy. The canopy will hold DIY lights, LED, Halides, T5's, I dont know which yet. Its an easy thing to change later, so im really after you recommendations on the tank setup first. 
Im thinking of pushing about 600 gph through the sump (as my skimmer requires 600gph) and want to keep it clean and simple. No refugium/rubble section. With the beananimal I can always push more flow through the sump if I want with a bigger pump. I have options there which is great.

Does anyone have a 50-70 gallon tank setup like this already? or have any tips on what to or not to do as I plan the system? Overflow size recommendations? Sump setup/design recommendations? 

Any help or advice is greatly appreciated! You guys have never led me astray (so far).


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## sig

what is this addiction to 18' deep

Ask Derek to cut regular 48x24x24 to 18H and make euro brace from remaining pieces or go just rimless. 24 is minimum to make nice landscape

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## duckhams

sig said:


> what is this addiction to 18' deep
> 
> Ask Derek to cut regular 48x24x24 to 18H and make euro brace from remaining pieces or go just rimless. 24 is minimum to make nice landscape


Thanks Sig! I would love to go bigger, but im limited on space. 24" deep and 18" tall would give me a 90 gallon tank, and im trying to keep it under 75 due to space and weight. I could go 48x20x16. ?? Do you think that would be better? It would be nice and shallow for sps, which works for me. 
I want the eurobrace to stop water spill down the front and sides. I also want a lot of surface agitation and I dont want to risk splashing.


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## sig

duckhams said:


> Thanks Sig! I would love to go bigger, but im limited on space. 24" deep and 18" tall would give me a 90 gallon tank, and im trying to keep it under 75 due to space and weight. I could go 48x20x16. ?? Do you think that would be better? It would be nice and shallow for sps, which works for me.
> I want the eurobrace to stop water spill down the front and sides. I also want a lot of surface agitation and I dont want to risk splashing.


are you serious ..." it under 75 due to space and weight". do you really believe 15G will make difference.

if you can go "... 48x20x16. ", you can go also 48x24x18

if you are talking about "tank for life" ask Derek what I suggested to be made from the regular 48x24x24

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## duckhams

sig said:


> are you serious ..." it under 75 due to space and weight". do you really believe 15G will make difference.
> 
> if you can go "... 48x20x16. ", you can go also 48x24x18
> 
> if you are talking about "tank for life" ask Derek what I suggested to be made from the regular 48x24x24


Are you a secret salesman for Miracles now Sig!? Lol. 
I am worried about 15G. My office is upstairs in my place. I know a tank this size isn't an issue for the floor, but I'd worry about it anyway. I know thats not reasonable, but so what. I like to limit risks.

I dont know dude. I do like the idea of a deeper tank, the aquascape would be so sweet. 
But I want to try and balance the longterm running cost of the tank and size is a factor there.


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## duckhams

48 x 20 x 18 is only 75 gallons. 8 gallons more than 48x20x16. 

I get what you're saying Sig. If im going to go for this as a 'forever tank' I should get what I want and will really love at the end of the day. 75 gallons is plenty for me and a good size all round I think. 

Your thoughts?


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## sig

size does not really matter, assuming bigger is better 

I say again go with 48x24x18 if you can. There will be no difference in lights, additives and etc (money and maintenance), but huge difference in appearance.

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## duckhams

sig said:


> size does not really matter, assuming bigger is better
> 
> I say again go with 48x24x18 if you can. There will be no difference in lights, additives and etc (money and maintenance), but huge difference in appearance.


You've definitely got me thinking. Im just worried about that much weight on a 2nd floor. Its going against an outside wall, so im sure it would be ok, I just worry about the what ifs. 70 gallons or 90 gallons, I guess its not a huge difference. Sort of like having 4-5 people up here looking at the tank I suppose.

I dont know. Im torn now.

Anyone have any pics of a 48 x 24 x 18 tank? ( 24" front to back, 18" tall)


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## cablemike

I assume the 18 inches is the height don't you guys think that's a bit shallow? I know it's good as far as lighting is concerned you can get away with less wattsbut what happens when your corals start to grow? I'm worried about my 24" tank being too short long term.
Sps, leathers grow tall.. Unless your gonna keep zoos and Lps corals, and even some Lps get huge. I've seen hammer coral colonies the size of a beach ball. just my two cents.


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## duckhams

I do agree there too, but it really depends on your rock work. I dont want to have a wall of rocks. I will have minimalistic rock work so there will be plenty of room for growing corals. Any SPS that get too big will get fragged and shared with my GTA buddies!

I think ive decided on 48x20x18. Its not the biggest tank I know, but its good for me and it will be very manageable with the old budget. I would rather have small awesomness, that big averageness.


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## cablemike

Trust me, I've had all different sized tanks and 18 inches is real low. And when your sps are growing and looking sweet it hard to break off the tops and ruin the look. Most people frag from the sides and back so they don't ruin the look of the colony. But hey if you go 18" remember me when it comes fragging time  I could always use fresh frags.


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## duckhams

I have an 18" cube right now that I really like. Its a good height. Ive never had craze-balls growth from SPS, so I dont think it will be too much of a problem. But you are probably right. 
I would love to go big, but I have to restrain myself before I get too carried away. 75 gallons is a good size for up upstairs home office, and again, its fits the budget. 
Thanks a lot for your input cablemike! What tank have you got now?


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## cablemike

I have a 65 gallon, here's my current build http://gtaaquaria.com/forum/showthread.php?t=38354


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## Shoryureppa

I had a standard 90 gallon with 18 inches front to back. I now have a standard 120 24 front to back. The extra 6 inches makes a massive difference. If I had my choice it would be 36 inches front to back. Good call on the external overflow btw. You will be able to really scape with that w/o having the stupid overflow box inside. Good luck with the build


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## sig

cablemike said:


> Trust me, I've had all different sized tanks and 18 inches is real low. And when your sps are growing and looking sweet it hard to break off the tops and ruin the look. Most people frag from the sides and back so they don't ruin the look of the colony. But hey if you go 18" remember me when it comes fragging time  I could always use fresh frags.


your problem my friend that you never had 24" or more dept of the tank. As result you have no choice but to run LR up instead of making flat landscape.
I do not have any problems with the high of 18"

This is 27 deep tank and 18 High. Believe me these corals are not frags. View from the side



and front



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## cablemike

The widest tank I've had is 20" that said a low tank with flat rock has no three dimensional depth in my opinion. You need to build up from front to back to get layers to get a 3d effect. Otherwise you just have corals in front of other corals. But I've seen the pics of your tank SIG, you have rock fairly high in your tank at th back wall, so you yourself don't have a flat scape.


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## cablemike

That monti you have up front will hit the water line with in two years, but whom I kidding here, by then you will have a 300 gallon tank


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## sig

cablemike said:


> That monti you have up front will hit the water line with in two years, but whom I kidding here, by then you will have a 300 gallon tank


It is already on the top and growing nicely..

Mike, I had 24 high and for me it was huge headache to maintain it. That's why I decided to go longer and deeper, but 18".

What I see now with the same volume of the LR, it was much easier to set up LR from the low level to the top and I have much more space for the corals

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## thmh

I wish I did 24 w T.T I totally agree with sig!!! You should go with minimum 20w but 24w is a sexy number.


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## RR37

30" is the new 24" 

Sig has a point. BUT any dimension tank can look good in its own way.


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## sig

RR37 said:


> 30" is the new 24"
> 
> Sig has a point. BUT any dimension tank can look good in its own way.


agree 100%, but what is the point to pay few times more and order custom made from MIracles, but regular size , but just with euro brace.

Buy regular tank >>> take trim out >>> cut glass and ask some pro to silicon iy

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## RR37

sig said:


> agree 100%, but what is the point to pay few times more and order custom made from MIracles, but regular size , but just with euro brace.
> 
> Buy regular tank >>> take trim out >>> cut glass and ask some pro to silicon iy


OH I hear you on that one.

I find fish tanks to be an interesting dynamic amongst friends. Especially when talking dimensions.


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## sig

RR37 said:


> OH I hear you on that one.
> 
> I find fish tanks to be an interesting dynamic amongst friends. Especially when talking dimensions.


that's what the friends are for 

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## cablemike

I will admit the depth is a bit annoying, having to use a step ladder and getting my arm pit soaked. But this also keeps my hands out of the tank more which is always a big plus. But with a 24" tank you can't get away with the same lights as a 18" tank right? You would need at least an 8x t5 unit vs 6x t5 for full coverage right?


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## rickcasa

This shot is to die for. Not easy to make the ends look this natural.










I'd go deep everytime, but there are times that it makes sense to settle for 18...like my build. Sucks not to have Greg's approval.


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## rickcasa

sig said:


> Buy regular tank >>> take trim out >>> cut glass and ask some pro to silicon iy


++1 Wait for Big Als Boxing week sale. More $$ to spend on corals.


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## RR37

cablemike said:


> I will admit the depth is a bit annoying, having to use a step ladder and getting my arm pit soaked. But this also keeps my hands out of the tank more which is always a big plus. But with a 24" tank you can't get away with the same lights as a 18" tank right? You would need at least an 8x t5 unit vs 6x t5 for full coverage right?


Im not sure if your talking depth or height here but I think you mean frontsy backsy when talking lights.

The answer is subjective at best, shallow tanks can have the light raised to allow for a better spread without sacrificing PAR on the bottom. When making a comparison from 24" Tall to say 18" Tall. The same can be said when about the top of an aquascape comparing PAR on the same aquarscape in a 24" Tall tank to an 18" Tall tank. Assuming we are not going to split hairs or anything here.

Coverage requirements will change aquascape to aquascape. If you don't have anything "living" within the front 6-8" and rear 6-8" and its just swing room then there would be no real requirement to have a a deeper light (Frontsy Backsy) assuming you were getting the output required for growth, etc.


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## ameekplec.

duckhams said:


> You've definitely got me thinking. Im just worried about that much weight on a 2nd floor. Its going against an outside wall, so im sure it would be ok, I just worry about the what ifs. 70 gallons or 90 gallons, I guess its not a huge difference. Sort of like having 4-5 people up here looking at the tank I suppose.
> 
> I dont know. Im torn now.
> 
> Anyone have any pics of a 48 x 24 x 18 tank? ( 24" front to back, 18" tall)


Can you throw it in a corner of the room? That should give you more peace of mind.

If you can, I'd go with a tank with more front to back depth rather than length. 24" is just too short these days.


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## RR37

Common sense always rings when talking big tank upstairs. Just think about things like water beds and dead loading a room. There are limits, some based on math and others figured on comfort based around a margin of safety. Both of those are higher than most will believe. Deflection should be minimal if detectable at all on a correctly setup 2'nd or 3'rd floor tank. (That isn't drastically oversized).


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## sig

RR37 said:


> Common sense always rings when talking big tank upstairs. Just think about things like water beds and dead loading a room. There are limits, some based on math and others figured on comfort based around a margin of safety. Both of those are higher than most will believe. Deflection should be minimal if detectable at all on a correctly setup 2'nd or 3'rd floor tank. (That isn't drastically oversized).


There is no common sense, when people want something. Few years ago I was renovating bathroom in downtown (dupont and Osingtom) in the house ~ 100 years old.
The owner wanted to relocate bathtub and I told him that he can not put bathtub in the new position without reinforcing the joins. He calculated something and said it will be OK as is. 
I was smart and asked for him to sign a waiver. It was on the second floor with the rotten joins.

The bath was installed and filled full with water to check for leaks - after 2 minutes it was in the basement going trough second and first floor and also taking pieces of the dining table with it

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## cablemike

that's a horrible story nobody got hurt right?


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## sig

cablemike said:


> that's a horrible story nobody got hurt right?


just owners pocket, but it was really fun. Even owner was happy that nobody was dead.

These old houses are something 

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## cablemike

I know about how old houses buddy I work in Toronto and all I do is renovate those old crappy houses. the worst part is trying to square up my work on those houses, twisted and warped and then they wonder why things look like they're out of alignment you try to explain to them that my work is square and the rest of the house is twisted. and you're talking about putting heavyweight on floors, well the one I just finished, I could break pieces of the floor joists off with the claw of my hammer it was really scary specially hanging the drywall from it I'm just waiting for pieces of the Joists to rip off and the drywall fall the owners I tried to explain we should double up the Joists but they didn't want to pay. Didnt do the waiver thing though but now I'm thinking we should have. but we did have the inspector in twice and they passed everything at all the different stages so hoping our hands are clear of it.


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## Shoryureppa

sig said:


> There is no common sense, when people want something. Few years ago I was renovating bathroom in downtown (dupont and Osingtom) in the house ~ 100 years old.
> The owner wanted to relocate bathtub and I told him that he can not put bathtub in the new position without reinforcing the joins. He calculated something and said it will be OK as is.
> I was smart and asked for him to sign a waiver. It was on the second floor with the rotten joins.
> 
> The bath was installed and filled full with water to check for leaks - after 2 minutes it was in the basement going trough second and first floor and also taking pieces of the dining table with it


Good thing you made them sign a waiver. Most people now think they are licensed or competent about/doing certain things after a quick search on google. I bet he learned his/her lesson...


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## rburns24

"The bath was installed and filled full with water to check for leaks - after 2 minutes it was in the basement going trough second and first floor and also taking pieces of the dining table with it."

Greg, that is one funny story.


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## Taipan

My two cents: Try and go wider. You will LOVE a wider display. I understand your concerns about the weight of the footprint. In this case; Sig is right. It shouldn't make too much of a difference (but I'm not a structural engineer). As for height; I've seen 'shallow reef' displays that are >18" and they look great. Obviously; tall isn't bad either...if you have the peace of mind.

The external overflow will give you a little extra room to play with, within your display though. That type of overflow design rocks!


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## duckhams

Thanks for the input guys. I agree that 24"+ deep looks amazing! Sig, your tank is awesome, there's no doubt you have a point with the aquascaping benefits of a deeper tank. (front to back deeper).
Im going to be putting the tank up against a load bearing wall, adjacent to the wall that holds the bathtub, so its probably the strongest point in the house. So weight is not an issue (thanks for the input on that yesterday RR37!)

That being said, im still going with 48x20x18. Just because I like the size and dimensions. It fits the look of my office (with the stand im getting) and im more than happy with 20" back to front. 75 gallons is as big as I want to go on this one, any bigger and im bringing a lot of water upstairs for water changes. Plus, I can always aquascape some extra depth into it. 

I get what you guys are saying, but this size works for me for this tank. It keeps maintenance manageable, its gives me depth and accessibility and the custom features add convenience. A Silent overflow, no splashy messes down the front glass during maintenance etc.


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## Taipan

As long as you; the end user are happy....that's all that matters. Well planned. It's also nice to see someone that actually sticks to their (original) plan. Good Luck....and when the time comes.....pictures.  Cheers.


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## duckhams

Taipan said:


> As long as you; the end user are happy....that's all that matters. Well planned. It's also nice to see someone that actually sticks to their (original) plan. Good Luck....and when the time comes.....pictures.  Cheers.


Thanks for the support Taipan! I really appreciate all you guys and your suggestions, you really make me think things through and thats always good. I will be sure to put pics up when the time comes. Ive attempted a few build threads on here and never really done them justice. (plus I keep changing projects). But on this one, im really going to take a lot of pics and put a decent build thread together. But im going to wait until im a few months in and have lots of pics to choose from, to make it good.


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## duckhams

So what do you guys think as far as bioload in this tank. Id really like to go with minimal rock work, heavy on the SPS with 15+ fish. Anyone running a tank like this already? Im going to have lots of flow to move the detritus up through the overflow and a properly sized skimmer (once the final bioload has been decided on).
Im also deciding on bare-bottom or perhaps aragonite, crushed coral as substrate. Sand gets blown around a lot, which I hate dealing with. Again, any suggestions/experience with SPS and substrates? 

(I know im asking several different questions here, sorry. I get carried away)


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## jd81

I just noticed your post.

My new tank has the dimensions you were looking for:

48" x 24" Deep x 18 High.

But I am only a couple weeks ahead of you, so I just started putting fish in there, no corals, and only a small portion is lighted, as I am still waiting for my LED's.

http://gtaaquaria.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40301

I am planning to put around 15 fish + mostly SPS in there. Currently have 10 fish, and it looks like the overall system can handle bioload without problems.

It was a 2nd hand tank, so the tank build quality is not as nice as it could be, but if you want to come take a look to have an idea of the dimensions, pm me. I am at bathurst/major mac.


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## duckhams

Thanks jd81! Your tank looks great! 24" is pretty sweet. . . .


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## RR37

sig said:


> There is no common sense


I wasn't clear, the common sense I was referencing was along the lines of...

Heavy upstairs... bad idea. But once the situation is surveyed the limits of the structure are often thrice what they were assumed. Obviously there is a limit to this statement. Don't even get me started on Heritage homes, lol.


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## RR37

duckhams said:


> (thanks for the input on that yesterday RR37!)


Pleasure ~



duckhams said:


> That being said, im still going with 48x20x18. Just because I like the size and dimensions.


Awesome !



duckhams said:


> Im also deciding on bare-bottom or perhaps aragonite, crushed coral as substrate. Sand gets blown around a lot, which I hate dealing with. Again, any suggestions/experience with SPS and substrates?


You already know my opinion on ^ this one


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## duckhams

RR37 said:


> You already know my opinion on ^ this one


I just setup that little frag tank I have substrate-free (I don't like saying bare-bottom too often) and it looks good. The white foam underneath it gives it a fresh, clean look.

But I do like the bigger tanks that have an inch or two of aragonite in. It doesn't shift around much and gives the snails something to disappear into. 
That being said, with the right rock work placement and some careful adjustments with powerhead placements, 2-3" of sand looks amazing and can work well, even in high flow sps tanks. It doesnt look so 'sterile', for lack of a better word, as bare-floor tanks.


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## RR37

duckhams said:


> I just setup that little frag tank I have substrate-free (I don't like saying bare-bottom too often) and it looks good. The white foam underneath it gives it a fresh, clean look.
> 
> But I do like the bigger tanks that have an inch or two of aragonite in. It doesn't shift around much and gives the snails something to disappear into.
> That being said, with the right rock work placement and some careful adjustments with powerhead placements, 2-3" of sand looks amazing and can work well, even in high flow sps tanks. It doesnt look so 'sterile', for lack of a better word, as bare-floor tanks.


I know exactly what you mean, its just a matter of getting through the first 6 months until the Coraline starts plating edge to edge.


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## duckhams

Im also curious as to which tank controller you guys are all using, and if you have had any issues with them? Im leaning toward the Neptune Systems Apex controller right now because I can control my vortechs with, and it seems simpler than the ReefKeeper. Any suggestions?


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## jd81

I think the Apex has more features than the Reefkeeper, but it also costs more. 

I am using the Neptune Apex and I like the web interface + Iphone/Ipad app support. I think the web interface is very useful when checking PH and temperature swings over a couple days.

I also use the VDM module to slowly ramp-up/ramp-down my LED's throughout the day.

I just ordered the WXM module to control my MP-40's, so I can slow down the MP-40's when I enable feed mode, and also switch to nutrient export mode for about 30 minutes before going to sleep mode everyday.

My only issue with the neptune, is that it does not always recover from power-outages. But I very rarely get power outages, and I connected a small UPS to the system just in case.

I will probably add an IP camera soon since I got a couple futureshop giftcards for christmas


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## duckhams

jd81 said:


> I think the Apex has more features than the Reefkeeper, but it also costs more.
> 
> I am using the Neptune Apex and I like the web interface + Iphone/Ipad app support. I think the web interface is very useful when checking PH and temperature swings over a couple days.
> 
> I also use the VDM module to slowly ramp-up/ramp-down my LED's throughout the day.
> 
> I just ordered the WXM module to control my MP-40's, so I can slow down the MP-40's when I enable feed mode, and also switch to nutrient export mode for about 30 minutes before going to sleep mode everyday.
> 
> My only issue with the neptune, is that it does not always recover from power-outages. But I very rarely get power outages, and I connected a small UPS to the system just in case.
> 
> I will probably add an IP camera soon since I got a couple futureshop giftcards for christmas


Thanks for the input jd81!


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## duckhams

So after all your input (thank you guys), thoughtful consideration, planning, budgeting and deliberating, the 48x20x20 is on its way. 
I like the depth front to back as it gives me room for interesting scape. The 20" high will allow for about 18" of swimming space with 1" of aragonite and 1" for the overflow to drain the surface down a bit. 
My goal is to build a really interesting rock-scape. So if there is never anything living in the tank, the rocks alone make it look interesting. (easier said than done). Marco rock all the way for this job. 

Im going to build that tank up slowly, getting the right equipment in place and ready to go. Im seriously considering going full zeo on this one. A few T5 actinics and some DIY LED's might be in order too. Not sure yet. 
Apex will be on order in a few months as budget allows. Bubble Magus is on its way now. I'l be picking up the first few pieces of rock soon to start the scape. 

Any suggestions on lighting guys? T5 & LEDS, all LEDS, Vegas, DIY, halides? Whats your thoughts/experiences? (I want pics of your lights!) 
I really like the slight purple tint of this tank.


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## advanced reef aquatics

Sorry, wrong thread.


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## duckhams

So the tank should be arriving today. .. .hopefully. I will post pics when it arrives. Im pretty excited to get it setup. Im still not sure what im going to do about lighting. My instinct is telling me T5/Halide combo for the SPS, but we'll see. I might follow the road Matt Dean took and rock a blue reefbrite as well. (love that aquascape too Matt). 

My next step will be plumbing.


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## badmedicine

I am interested to follow this thread. Keep us posted.


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## duckhams

*It's here!*

So the tank, stand and sump arrived today! Im blown away with the quality of the tank and the stand. It's really finished well.

*The tank* is 48x20x20 starphire/low iron/opti-white (whatever) eurobraced, with an external beananimal overflow. It has an acrylic baffle/insert with teeth to black out the back and act as a strainer. It's drilled for 1" bulkheads on the beananimal and 3/4" returns in the back glass and in the eurobracing.

*The sump* is 30x14x18. It's rock solid. Im really pleased with how it turned out.

*The stand* is 40" tall. Its a great height to view the tank whether standing or sitting AND is the perfect height for me to reach into the tank and still be able to touch the bottom without having to be on a step-ladder.

While I do love the options the hood provides for lighting and covering things, I really like the look of it without the hood.
Eurobracing is the best! No more splashing for me!


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## rickcasa

Awesome setup! This is going to be a great build.
Congrats! Love the external overflow.


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## duckhams

rickcasa said:


> Awesome setup! This is going to be a great build.
> Congrats! Love the external overflow.


Thanks man. Im pretty excited about it!


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## fesso clown

Awesome tank, I am totally jealous. I like it without the hood too, it is nice to have the option though. Nice score!


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## rburns24

Just send me the the tank, stand and sump. I'll be waiting. Great way to do it!

I, on the other hand, didn't do it that way, but wish I had.


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## duckhams

rburns24 said:


> Just send me the the tank, stand and sump. I'll be waiting. Great way to do it!
> 
> I, on the other hand, didn't do it that way, but wish I had.


Lol! You got it. Check your mail box tomorrow. 

I love the rock in your tank! What is it? Pukani? 
And how do you like the NWB-150 Reef Octopus on the 65? Im thinking of running one on this.


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## duckhams

Im also looking for some 1" slip/slip bulkheads and 3/4" threaded bulkheads if anyone has a few spare?


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## rburns24

I got the rock fro Eco-Reefer. I got waaaaay too much.(65 lbs) When I first started out, I had less than 1/2 of that and when I look at those pics now, I really feel like kicking myself. 
The NWB-150 will be fine for your tank. Unless you stock really heavily, it won't have a lot to do a fair amount of the time.

I'm in the process of setting up a 55 I got from wicked frags and hope to be transferring most of what I have in the present 65(minus some rock)to the 55. After that I'm setting up a tank that is also starphire that I bought from StevieK that is the exact same measurements as yours.

You, sir, seem to be exercising good planning. I am the exact opposite.(too compulsive)Or as Greg and my sister say, maybe just a tad crazy.

Forgot to mention, I switched to a Curve 7 a few months ago. Was running a SRO1000INT, which I absolutely hated...



duckhams said:


> Lol! You got it. Check your mail box tomorrow.
> 
> I love the rock in your tank! What is it? Pukani?
> And how do you like the NWB-150 Reef Octopus on the 65? Im thinking of running one on this.


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## duckhams

rburns24 said:


> Forgot to mention, I switched to a Curve 7 a few months ago. Was running a SRO1000INT, which I absolutely hated...


That's interesting. And how do you like the BM curve 7? It's a lot cheaper than the NWB150. How would you compare them?


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## rburns24

Actually, the 150 is $243 and the Curve 7 is $275.(goreef) I like them both, but I imagine the Curve 7 would be better on a larger tank. This is only supposition, though. I've run them both on my tank, but the load isn't very heavy.

Of the 3 Reef Octopus skimmers I have(150, DNWB110, and SRO1000INT) the 150 is by far and away my favorite. I'll more than likely run it on the 55.


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## duckhams

rburns24 said:


> Actually, the 150 is $243 and the Curve 7 is $275.(goreef)


http://www.reefshops.com/product-733.html?sl=EN $150 on this site.

I have a Reef Octopus BH-1000 hang-on skimmer im going to mod to fit on the back of my 68. But i'd really like to upgrade to something more hefty so that I can load the tank up.


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## rburns24

Didn't know you could get a Curve 7 so cheaply. Too bad they don't sell more brands. If you can get the Curve 7 for $150, might not be a bad idea for your 68.


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## duckhams

Ok, so I have most of the plumbing in (less the bulkheads, which should arrive from GH tomorrow) and I just ordered 55 lbs of marco rock from [email protected], which im hoping will also show up tomorrow, if im very very lucky. 

If I can get the plumbing done this week, I should have it water tested and ready to install for monday. Then I just have to wait for it to cycle and its go time!


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## duckhams

Moved to a build thread : http://www.gtaaquaria.com/forum/showthread.php?p=333505#post333505

Thanks for the support, the advice and for following along!


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