# Lets Talk DIY Overflows



## riggles17 (Jan 4, 2011)

Currently trying to decide between 3 overflow configurations to get water to the sump via a Bean Animal setup on a newly setup 135 gallon glass tank. The overflow will be on one of the 18"x24" side panels, and now the last bit of planning is which overflow configuration to use. 

Currently I'm between 3 configurations, all of which will run a BEAN ANIMAL PLUMBING CONFIGURATION (this thread is not about how to plumb, but about the overflows themselves);

1. Glass Internal Overflow Box - C2C and pipes straight into the side of the tank. 

2. Glass Internal + External Overflow Boxes - configured like a Ghost with the inner box being low profile, and the external being larger for the piping. In this instance, relying on GE SCS1200 Black silicone to build and mount the boxes. The internal box will still be C2C. External overflow will be approximately 15" Long, 6" Wide, 8" Tall. Both constructed totally from 1/4" glass, and the edges I will polish after assembly

3. DIY Ghost Overflow - Residual acrylic from my sump build, or new black acrylic for the build. Same sizing as the external box above. My only concerns with this configuration are; the bottom giving out of the external overflow box (I don't know if that is a common issue, but I know normally acrylic tanks need the bottom fully supported), and the bulkheads leaking. If you were doing it in acrylic relying on bulkheads, use 3/8" acrylic?

I'm personally leaning towards the glass internal + external overflow configuration made from 1/4" glass and GE SCS1200 Black, but I am trying to take every precaution possible to not have my tank spring a leak at some point. Which would you guys do, and why? If anyone has any personal experience fabricating the different setups, I would appreciate feedback from your experience and I know everyone likes pictures


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## WiseGuyPhil (Jun 15, 2011)

If we are talking DIY, I personally like option 2 but I wouldn't go C2C. A good 12 inch overflow with returns drilled into the same side of the tank. nice and clean and can be turned into a peninsula later on.


2 - 1.5" bulkhead from tank.
3 - 1" drains.

Either way, sounds like a fun project


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## riggles17 (Jan 4, 2011)

Phil

I am liking option 2 the more I dig into it and design it out further. I plan on using the black SCS 1200 to match my tank but also polishing the edges up nicely and keeping the seams very crisp in the overflows. You're right on the not going coast to coast. Again, the more I think about it and picture it in my head, the more I don't want the silicone smeared across the front of the tank to mount the C2C. 

It's certainly going to be DIY but I'm hoping a high quality, meticulously planned DIY - not a slap together, rushed jobby noone wants to see (including me) lol. I'm excited, even though it's just an overflow. This will be my first internal overflow build, external overflow build, sump build, and Bean Animal setup. A lot of firsts, so I'm trying to mitigate as first-attempt mistakes as possible.


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## wtac (Mar 17, 2006)

You can use acrylic for the internal half as water pressure is pushing the acrylic towards the glass. Thus you will have an easier time cutting, forming, tooling, etc the acrylic to what suits you best.

Exterior you must use glass for the overflow box as the shear stress on the silicone joint will exceed the silicone-acrylic bond vs silicone-glass. To hold the glass and water weight as well as piping, I suggest that you use min 3/8" thick glass and cut some 3/8" x 1/2" strips against the aquarium pane exterior and butt to the external overflow box for extra surface area for silicone bonding and structural support.

Using 1/2" glass you can forgo the glass strips.

JM2C


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## riggles17 (Jan 4, 2011)

wtac said:


> You can use acrylic for the internal half as water pressure is pushing the acrylic towards the glass. Thus you will have an easier time cutting, forming, tooling, etc the acrylic to what suits you best.
> 
> Exterior you must use glass for the overflow box as the shear stress on the silicone joint will exceed the silicone-acrylic bond vs silicone-glass. To hold the glass and water weight as well as piping, I suggest that you use min 3/8" thick glass and cut some 3/8" x 1/2" strips against the aquarium pane exterior and butt to the external overflow box for extra surface area for silicone bonding and structural support.
> 
> ...


I have found the 1/2" glass for basically the same price as what I can get it out for out here, in Mississauga. My girlfriend doesn't know it yet but it looks like she'll be picking up some 1/2" glass lol.

Using the 1/2" glass, and building it with the SCS1200, as well as mounting it using the SCS1200 and the glass supports you mentioned, the box should be fine and I can set up my Bean Animal to run silently with the flow through holes correct?


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## wtac (Mar 17, 2006)

Yes, with 1/2" thick glass, it'll be SOLID and accommodate the Bean style overflow system.

Technically, if the external box is 4 sided and the open long side is siliconed to the pane with supports and the internal box, skip the bulkheads and drill 2 holes that will accommodate 1" bulkheads (1.75", IIRC) that will easily accommodate over a 1500GPH spill over. If they say the bulkhead will remove water pressure stress, no...the spanning perpendicular pane of the bottom external overflow box is doing that.

Just make sure that you grind smooth all chips on the knockout side.


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