# need help with a hippo tang



## bud091 (Dec 25, 2012)

Hey everyone I have a hippo tang and noticed some white spots on my tang I worried it may be ich but never had a fish with it before so not sure here are some pictures of it I took with the dslr pic it is ich what do I do to get rid of it thanks


----------



## TankCla (Dec 31, 2010)

Your tang has ich. You took a pic with your DSLR and then with you phone?!?!


----------



## bud091 (Dec 25, 2012)

TankCla said:


> Your tang has ich. You took a pic with your DSLR and then with you phone?!?!


yes reposting now


----------



## Car2n (Jun 7, 2011)

Blur Hippo Tang from Big Als Whitby?
I have one with ich too.


----------



## bud091 (Dec 25, 2012)

Car2n said:


> Blur Hippo Tang from Big Als Whitby?
> I have one with ich too.


No sum in Markham


----------



## TankCla (Dec 31, 2010)

There are a few ways to deal with ich. You just have to do the one that suits you.
Quarantine, TT, low salinity, good food, etc.

My personal experience with ich on blue tang is not approved by reefers. I just fed it good, high protein food with metro + focus and garlic in DT.


----------



## TankCla (Dec 31, 2010)

bud091 said:


> No sum in Markham


It doesn't matter. I got mine from NAFB. Sooner or later they all make ich.


----------



## bud091 (Dec 25, 2012)

TankCla said:


> It doesn't matter. I got mine from NAFB. Sooner or later they all make ich.


Sorry won't let me repost pictures...... what do no do ton get rid of it will my other fish get it?


----------



## TankCla (Dec 31, 2010)

bud091 said:


> ... what do no do ton get rid of it will my other fish get it?


huh? .


----------



## bud091 (Dec 25, 2012)

TankCla said:


> huh? .


What is the easiest way to treat ich I should say


----------



## TankCla (Dec 31, 2010)

http://www.chucksaddiction.com/ich.html

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1992196

 There is no easy way.


----------



## bud091 (Dec 25, 2012)

What about a fresh water dip does that work.


----------



## des (Jul 30, 2011)

One way or another, you need lots of patience. I think copper is the quickest way to treat the fish in QT but it will not solve the ich in your DT.


----------



## bud091 (Dec 25, 2012)

des said:


> One way or another, you need lots of patience. I think copper is the quickest way to treat the fish in QT but it will not solve the ich in your DT.


Right now only my bt has it can I not do the copper in my DT?


----------



## Letigrama (Jul 6, 2008)

Hi there.

Blue tangs are extremely sensitive to itch. Cooler water and bad conditions will affect it and make it more vulnerable, and also tank size. Remember the recommended size for adult blue tangs are 180g and higher, something we all dont want to get in our heads, I know as is time for me to find my blue tang a new home.

what worked for me: kordon's reef safe icth cure ( name might not be exactly this, but the brand is) it wont affect your corals, you can treat the whole tank.

Do it now, dont waste time as is very contagious. big als carries Kordon.

Before treating, do a 20% water change to give some advantage in healing naturally.

If the tang is not improving, take him out to a QT tank and treat him with copper based medication

Good luck, ich is not hard to deal with but quality in the water and acting fast is key.


----------



## Letigrama (Jul 6, 2008)

bud091 said:


> Right now only my bt has it can I not do the copper in my DT?


copper will kill all your inverts and damage coral if not killing it too. DO NOT EVER DOSE COPPER IN DT! hope i was clear


----------



## bud091 (Dec 25, 2012)

Okay thanks so much I'll get it tomorrow and get started on it any idea how long it takes to work also any idea on the cost of it


----------



## bud091 (Dec 25, 2012)

Letigrama said:


> copper will kill all your inverts and damage coral if not killing it too. DO NOT EVER DOSE COPPER IN DT! hope i was clear


Yes very clear lol thanks again


----------



## TankCla (Dec 31, 2010)

bud091 said:


> Right now only my bt has it can I not do the copper in my DT?


Read the info in the links I posted and you will understand what to do and how to do it.



> Treatments which work:
> 
> 1. Hyposalinity - Using a refractometer, hold salinity at 11ppt to 12ppt until 4 weeks after the last spot was seen. (Best to use salinity, but if you use specific gravity, that equates to roughly 1.008 to 1.009 sp. gr. units). Raise salinity slowly and observe fish for 4 more weeks. It is difficult to control pH and water quality during treatment, however this is the least stressful treatment for the fish.
> 
> ...


Don't do anything until you understand ich. More stress will aggravate fish health.


----------



## deeznutz (Aug 21, 2013)

Best fight for ich is good feedings! You will never get rid of ich. You can only combat it.

Think of ich as a cold, if your fish is not healthy, stressed or living in bad conditions, they will catch the cold.

Fed him sea veggies. Soak it in a bit of garlic and when you feed it, break it up in your fingers so it breaks up into the water column. Feed garlic soaked mysis as well. 

Don't further stress the fish by trying to catch it and qt it. If you didn't qt it in the beginning what's the point of starting now.

I've kept a hippo tang for years and this is what I do when I see ich. Usually goes away in a few days or good feedings. It always happens when I get lazy with feedings and husbandry.

-dan


----------



## Flexin5 (Nov 12, 2011)

TankCla said:


> There are a few ways to deal with ich. You just have to do the one that suits you.
> Quarantine, TT, low salinity, good food, etc.
> 
> My personal experience with ich on blue tang is not approved by reefers. I just fed it good, high protein food with metro + focus and garlic in DT.


me too. and my tank has shown 0 sign of ich for months now...and that's with some pretty sensitive fish (powder blue tang, hippo tang and orange shoulder tang) all are doing so well, little fatties (altho i'd like the powder blue tang to be a bit fatter but he's the newest)

pbt + orange shoulder










hippo










i think that the stress of moving the fish and getting it used to its new home will bring out an ich outbreak but once it's used to the new stress free enviroment, and with a nice healthy diet they are pretty good. like tankCA i give my fish flake soaked in vita chem and garlic everyday.


----------



## bud091 (Dec 25, 2012)

deeznutz said:


> Best fight for ich is good feedings! You will never get rid of ich. You can only combat it.
> 
> Think of ich as a cold, if your fish is not healthy, stressed or living in bad conditions, they will catch the cold.
> 
> ...


What type of garlic and where do I get sea veggies....... I've never had a fish have ich before so this is new 2 me


----------



## bud091 (Dec 25, 2012)

Flexin5 said:


> me too. and my tank has shown 0 sign of ich for months now...and that's with some pretty sensitive fish (powder blue tang, hippo tang and orange shoulder tang) all are doing so well, little fatties (altho i'd like the powder blue tang to be a bit fatter)
> 
> pbt + orange shoulder
> 
> ...


What did you do to stop it any info will help at this point in time


----------



## Flexin5 (Nov 12, 2011)

bud091 said:


> What type of garlic and where do I get sea veggies....... I've never had a fish have ich before so this is new 2 me


i use garlic extreme, available at alot of places, big als if you need it quick.



bud091 said:


> What did you do to stop it any info will help at this point in time


started garlic right away. when i got the outbreak it was toward the beginning when i started the tank. the hippo tang was COVERED in ich. within a week of feeding the vitachem and garlic soak i noticed a difference. the garlic doesn't get rid of the ich, it entices the fish to eat, which then makes their immune system better to fight off the ich. most ppl will disagree, but it worked for me.


----------



## bud091 (Dec 25, 2012)

Ok and do I mix it with or use it straight in the tank


----------



## bud091 (Dec 25, 2012)

http://www.bigalspets.ca/garlic-guard-500-ml.html

is this what I want?


----------



## deeznutz (Aug 21, 2013)

This can be found at any bigals, but it's a lot cheaper online.
http://www.amazon.com/Julian-Sprungs-Veggies-Purple-Seaweed/dp/B008Y4YKPA

I always fed the purple vegs. Garlic extract can be found at big als as well.

The diet my tangs usually eat is mainly sea veg. My Red sea Sailfin has fatten up on sea veg and it's only been about 1 month of good feedings.

Good luck and I agree with flexing about letting the fish get used to his new surroundings. It's a lot of stress on fish moving for tank to tank.


----------



## bud091 (Dec 25, 2012)

Thanks again everyone I'll be getting the stuff I need tomorrow night


----------



## Flexin5 (Nov 12, 2011)

bud091 said:


> Ok and do I mix it with or use it straight in the tank


i have a little cup, that i put about 5 drops of the amino vitamin in the cup, then three drops of garlic xtreme



















then a couple drops of tank water; then 3 pinches of flake.


----------



## bud091 (Dec 25, 2012)

Sweet hope it helps my fish


----------



## bud091 (Dec 25, 2012)

Is it true I coukd have got ich from doing a water change and the water being to cold??? Or even not using a ro system


----------



## Flexin5 (Nov 12, 2011)

bud091 said:


> Is it true I coukd have got ich from doing a water change and the water being to cold??? Or even not using a ro system


ich wouldn't come from the actual water from a water change, but if the water was too cold or the chemistry was off it would stress the fish letting it be more prone to ich.


----------



## 12273 (Nov 3, 2012)

Well I just got 8 snails, a feather duster and 2 shrimps from SUM. Hopefully none of them had ich eggs or spores or whatever they are. 

Look into the temp increase method. I hope I never get ich but it's part of this hobby unfortunately. 

A quarantine tank is prob the best way. You can dose meds and keep the tank on the calm/darker side for stress. The ich can survive without a host for a few weeks I think so QT for a month maybe more and the ich in DT should die off. That's the theory anyways. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dax (Sep 29, 2010)

In case you didn't know, the Ich parasite has a cyclical lifecycle (about 1 month). This means that the spots will disappear so don't assume that the fish is cured. On the next cycle the fish may be strong enough to fight it, but if not, it will definately become much weaker. IMO feed the fish and leave it alone for 1 cycle. If the spots come back the fish may not survive another outbreak so I'd suggest qt for ALL your fish at this point. This way you have the ability to get rid of Ich from your tank permanently. The ONLY two methods that work are hypo and copper. If you are new to this go with copper because it is way easier than hypo. I have cupramine and a test kit if you want to use it. Just shoot me a pm.


----------



## bud091 (Dec 25, 2012)

aquaman1 said:


> Well I just got 8 snails, a feather duster and 2 shrimps from SUM. Hopefully none of them had ich eggs or spores or whatever they are.
> 
> Look into the temp increase method. I hope I never get ich but it's part of this hobby unfortunately.
> 
> ...


Im not going with a QT tank right yet I'm going to try the kordon first with my new tank it will be near impossible to catch her and will stress her even more


----------



## bud091 (Dec 25, 2012)

Just wanted to thank everyone for the there input on the ich problem in have I went and got all the stuff needed to treat the ich so hoping I get it dealt with now the meds say it could take 2 week to kill it off hope my hippo makes it..... p's I was told if I keep using extrem garlic it will help keep ich away anyone know if that's true or false?


----------



## Announce (Aug 27, 2008)

If your tang is still eating, you are likely in luck. Like many of said this is like a common cold, and even though copper is "quick cure" it acts more like a bandaid, so it is a good thing you did not go this route (in a QT or Dip). Here are the steps I typically use / recommend:


*Raise your temperature to 82/83*: An increased temperature will increase the metabolism of the animals in your aquarium, do this temperature increase over a few days. This serves to strengthen the fish, and also reduce the life cycle of the ich, remember that even when the fish no longer shows signs of the parasite it is likely still dormant in the aquarium.
*Feed high quality foods soaked in garlic frequently*: Because the of the higher temperature fish need to be fed more frequently, garlic naturally boosts the immune system of the fish. Small feedings several times a day are also much better for the metabolism of your fish.
*Use a reef safe ich medication*: In my experience these are not effective on their own, many simply introduce particles into the water which act as fake hosts for the ich, so that instead of attaching to the fish, they attach to these "chemicals" which do not contain the necessary nutrients for them to survive. Unfortunately medications that work in this manner do nothing to boost the immune system of your fish. 
*Carefully monitor water parameters*: Simply to remove any additional stress, and because additional feedings means additional nutrients in the water

Most importantly though, and I cannot stress this enough. Buy fish from reputable stores which quarantine, medicate, and monitor their animals closely. By paying a few extra bucks you save yourself and your animals a lot of stress, and you encourage all LFS's to follow similar practices. Like buying a car it is always to buy one that has been well maintained.


----------



## bud091 (Dec 25, 2012)

Okay ill boost my temp up a bit tonight right now I'm using the garlic with brine shrimp


----------



## 12273 (Nov 3, 2012)

If you go to grocery store they sell minced garlic in a jar you could feed them some garlic and also it had a lot of garlic juices you can soak food in. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## bud091 (Dec 25, 2012)

aquaman1 said:


> If you go to grocery store they sell minced garlic in a jar you could feed them some garlic and also it had a lot of garlic juices you can soak food in.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Is that fish safe..... i got some stuff from shit als AKA big als only cost 8.99 so wasn't to bad but yeah


----------



## 12273 (Nov 3, 2012)

This stuff is pure garlic. Just minced sitting in its juices. It costs about $4. And it's also good to cook with! . No smelly fingers! It's gotta be safe. It's garlic. Not BA garlic though  


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Letigrama (Jul 6, 2008)

my blue tang has not gotten ick since he eats pellets from new life spectrum THERA + A with garlic.


----------



## 12273 (Nov 3, 2012)

I have the new life spectrum for my clowns . But BA didn't have the garlic one. I might get online. I tried new era soft pellets and they ignored them 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## bud091 (Dec 25, 2012)

Announce said:


> If your tang is still eating, you are likely in luck. Like many of said this is like a common cold, and even though copper is "quick cure" it acts more like a bandaid, so it is a good thing you did not go this route (in a QT or Dip). Here are the steps I typically use / recommend:
> 
> 
> *Raise your temperature to 82/83*: An increased temperature will increase the metabolism of the animals in your aquarium, do this temperature increase over a few days. This serves to strengthen the fish, and also reduce the life cycle of the ich, remember that even when the fish no longer shows signs of the parasite it is likely still dormant in the aquarium.
> ...


How long do i keep the temp up for ?


----------



## mmatt (Feb 12, 2012)

I've got a bit of an ich issue with my tangs as well. A powder blue and and kole. They got stressed right out when I was trying to catch a butterfly that was being a bully and nipping at my corals. All my other fish seem fine. I've been researching for a week now and well its a cluster [email protected] of info and ideas to say the least. Quarintine for 6-8 weeks and let the tank go fallow so it kills the life cycle of the ich. But good luck catching all these high speed fish and not stressing them out at the same time. Tangs are quick and well my dimond gobies are crazy fast and bury themselfs in the sand. Let only anything else in the tank. 

So my point being is that it is just not practical. And if you get rid of it all after months of treatment and quarintine, who knows if your fish/tangs get stressed out again then bam! 

So this is my plan. Leave everything in the tank let the ich run it's cycle and feed my fish quality food (since they are still eating like champs) with lots of garlic. Specifically the spectrum pellets with garlic. And I'm taking the seaweed sheets and soaking them in purred garlic ro/di water. 

Not adding any new fish or anything and keeping my hands out. 
And stay on top of water changes. Keeping the stress as low as possible. 

And just keep an eye on everything. And hope for the best. 

The life cycle of ich is like this. 

Starts on the fish then drops to the sand to reproduce. Once it reaches adulthood it moves to the water column and looks for a host. It has approx 24-48hours to do this or it dies off. So hopefully at tha point the fish aren't stressed and can fight it off on their own. If not the cycle starts all over again. This whole process can take up to 6 weeks depending on conditions so that's why it is recommended a 6-8 week quarintine and fallow tank.

What I have learned is that ich is always present it's just a matter of who and when blank-fish gets stressed. Tangs and ich are tight. Lol. Unfortunately. 

Please anyone feel free to chime in and correct me as I am a newbie to this hobby.


----------



## 12273 (Nov 3, 2012)

Matt. You're wrong. Just kidding . 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## mmatt (Feb 12, 2012)

aquaman1 said:


> Matt. You're wrong. Just kidding .
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Gad dammit!!lol!!


----------



## Car2n (Jun 7, 2011)

aquaman1 said:


> I have the new life spectrum for my clowns . But BA didn't have the garlic one. I might get online. I tried new era soft pellets and they ignored them
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


new life spectrum THERA + A with garlic
I got some at the Whitby store today.


----------



## mmatt (Feb 12, 2012)

So we've noticed that there are no spots in the morning (full lights) but come the afternoon they've reappeared.... ick?


----------



## bud091 (Dec 25, 2012)

Hey everyone need a little more info I've been treating my tank for ich for about a week now and my hippo tang has a bit of skin pealing off is that normal she's eating great still and very active and input?


----------



## TankCla (Dec 31, 2010)

Might be from scratching on LR. Post a pic. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## bud091 (Dec 25, 2012)

I'll see what I can get she moves fast


----------



## bud091 (Dec 25, 2012)

Here's a picture p's will never buy fish or renamed sum to anyone I got to fish from there my hippo and a Kole tang and now I'm paying for it my Kole died and hippo has ich


----------



## TankCla (Dec 31, 2010)

I am sorry, but your tang doesn't look to good.


----------



## bud091 (Dec 25, 2012)

Looks ok in person I just did a water change and my glass needs a wipe down but do you see what I mean about the skin


----------



## bud091 (Dec 25, 2012)

Also she's still eating very well I feed her brine shrimp twice a day and pellets as well and she's always eating


----------



## Dax (Sep 29, 2010)

I took my time and hoped for the best with proper feeding, low stress, Kordon's Ick attack etc..... and in the end I bit the bullet and went with separating the fish, which in retrospect I should have done in the first place because then I would have saved my favorite fish. As I said before, if the fish makes it through one cycle and the spots reappear, decide whether you want to save the fish or you don't mind taking your chances. I went 2 cycles which was too much.
To catch the fish, remove all the rock/decorations and remember how to put them back. Anything else you will probably not catch the fish and end up stressing them out more. After this it's easy; use hypo or copper and wait 8 weeks. Now you will be Ich free and even stress will not bring it back unless you add something new to the tank.


----------



## bud091 (Dec 25, 2012)

Just wanted to thank every one for there help and comments on my ich problem I did the best I could but she didn't make it 


mods you can close the thread or leave it for other people to read on it up to you thanks again everyone


----------



## TankCla (Dec 31, 2010)

Sorry for your loss buddy.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Flexin5 (Nov 12, 2011)

ah that sucks. 

next time if you want to get another fish check out reef boutique, he sells great quality fish.


----------



## bud091 (Dec 25, 2012)

Someone els told me that last night as well


----------



## Flameangel (Sep 25, 2013)

Perhaps when CanadaCorals open up their added line of fish then it'll be of quality as well.I'm sorry to hear your lost buddy.


----------



## ReefABCs (Nov 10, 2012)

TankCla said:


> http://www.chucksaddiction.com/ich.html
> 
> http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1992196
> 
> There is no easy way.


bud091,

Just for the record you really need to read the info on these links if not already its the reality.

All the potions and raising temp stuff does not kill ich. just keep that in mind if you come across this again.

"Sometimes" fish can live with it in our tanks but I believe fish and parameters must be very healthy otherwise and there is always risk of a break out that you wont be able to combat in a reef aquarium. Some Fish live with it in the ocean but in the ocean they are not in a contained environment where ich can multiply out of control and the fish can't get away from it and are eventually smothered beyond the ability to fight it off.

Sorry for the fish loss.


----------



## bud091 (Dec 25, 2012)

Hey guys got another issue it my ich problem woke up this morning and my clown has ich so bad can barley see the orange on him and as for my yellow tang he's slowing down as well don't think they will make it much long I'm sure someone already told me the length of ich but I'm debating whether or not to shut down my tank or wait it out hoe long would it take will it affect my one and only frog spawn I have about 80-100 pounds of lr I don't want to lose as well what should I do this is getting stressful to lose all my fish I need some ideas it's to the point where I want to shut my tank down and give up


----------



## TankCla (Dec 31, 2010)

In this case you should quarantine your fish. Ich will not attach corals and shrimps. You have to leave your tank without fish for about 10-12 weeks if I remember correctly. Read the links I gave you. You will get the much needed info faster than asking on the forum. 
Don't give up. Just keep corals for a while. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## mmatt (Feb 12, 2012)

Honestly at this point it sounds like you need the six week treatment. Sounds like everything is stressed the F out. Christ id do 8 weeks. Get out as much of your fish as you can and quarantine/hospital tank them treat them for ich and hope they survive. Then let the tank go fallow for those 8 weeks and hope for the best until then. Sorry man. That sucks. Or as much as it sucks let the fish die off(blasphemy I know) and let the tank go fallow for 2-3months. Keep up with your water changes and feed your inverts and coral. And wish for the best

Best ideas I've got. But my knowledge is not that of an expert. Just what I've put together for what I think would work from what I've read.


----------



## bud091 (Dec 25, 2012)

TankCla said:


> In this case you should quarantine your fish. Ich will not attach corals and shrimps. You have to leave your tank without fish for about 10-12 weeks if I remember correctly. Read the links I gave you. You will get the much needed info faster than asking on the forum.
> Don't give up. Just keep corals for a while.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I don't want to sound neglect full but I don't think there is any chance of saving them nor any way to catch them I'll post oil turns tonight of how bad the ich is and I put a pic of my tank up now and you'll see y I won't be able to catch them


----------



## TankCla (Dec 31, 2010)

Than, I am sorry for your loss. 
Don't buy fish for 10-12 weeks, maybe more, to be on the safe side. Make a nice frag tank. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## bud091 (Dec 25, 2012)

Is there anyway to check for ich down the road any kinda of test can be done. Sorry for all the questions I'm going to do some research tonight


----------



## TankCla (Dec 31, 2010)

Sadly no. If you add fish in your tank, ich cycle will begin. 
After 12 weeks ich will die, since there is no host (fish). 



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## bud091 (Dec 25, 2012)

TankCla said:


> Sadly no. If you add fish in your tank, ich cycle will begin.
> After 12 weeks ich will die, since there is no host (fish).
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Okay thanks


----------



## bud091 (Dec 25, 2012)

A there was one. My tang died in the back under the rocks will it hurt the tank if the fish stays in there I can get it out


----------



## Flameangel (Sep 25, 2013)

I have had ich infestation the first month I've set up my 90 gallon tank and 2 of my fishes died from it.I decided to purchase a 40 watt UV Sterilizer after that incident and ONLY then my tank and all the fish,my Powder blue,Blue Hippo,Yellow and Purple tangs were all clean up until this time.I can swear that UV sterilizer did helped me with the dreaded Ich.I know that a lot of reefkeepers will disagree with me but that's just my personal experience.Here are some good readings to compare pros and cons:
UV STERILIZER POSITIVES
◦At flow rates of 20-25 gph, depending upon dwell time inside UV Sterilizer, a UV Sterilizer will kill or render helpless most pathogenic bacteria
◦A UV Sterilizer will NOT kill beneficial bacteria since these aerobic bacteria reside in the substrate and filter media in a healthy established aquarium
◦A UV Sterilizer WILL improve Redox Balance resulting improved fish immune response
◦A UV Sterilizer can help slow or occasionally even stop Oodinium, Ich or other single cell aquarium parasite infestation.
Level 1 Sterilization will slow many of these parasites, if only by improving fish immune response. Level 2 can even kill some single parasites, although not always completely.
However I should caution a prospective buyer that even the best UV should not be purchased with the belief this will put an end to future Ich, Velvet, Oodinium or related infestations. Purchase a UV as a tool to aid in control and prevention (keyword: TOOL)
◦A UV Sterilizer will clarify an aquarium with cloudy or green water

UV STERILIZER NEGATIVES
◦A UV Sterilizer is NOT a cure all to poor water chemistry as per Redox, over crowding often resulting in poor water clarity, poor disease prevention, and other poor aquarium maintenance management
◦If not correctly installed AFTER filter inline or in a sump loop, too high a flow rate, poor dwell time, poor UV Sterilization chamber design; you often will have useless piece of aquarium equipment.
This unfortunately happens way too often.
I have made countless “house calls” where a customer incorrectly installed the UV Sterilizer or purchased one of the countless junk UVs such as the Jebo or AquaTop and then would tell me the UV did not improve my fish’ health. This resulted in this customer stating ALL UVs are useless, when in fact they made this anecdotal opinion based on incorrect installation or use of poorly designed UVs that are NOT capable of Level 1 Sterilization.
◦A UV should not be used while planktonic foods are added to the water column. This is common in many reef aquariums.
However the UV Sterilizer can still be used and should be placed on a timer so that it is run two hours after the introduction of these foods.
◦Many UV Sterilizer have ballasts that do not last (such as the Coralife), or gimmicks such as baffles, twists, wipers, that do little or even lower UV irradiation efficiency.
Do not waste your money on these UVs, otherwise you may end up with a poor opinion of what a good UV can do for your aquarium.


----------



## 12273 (Nov 3, 2012)

As mentioned above. Don't buy any more fish and starve the ich larvae. 

My understanding is no fish no life for ich. Dip coral or give them to fish. store. Crank the heat in the tank and leave it for a month. Patience is a virtue. 

And in the future I recommend avoiding LFS for fish and better off with buying from established tanks from members. Or set up a QT in the future and treat with a variety of meds for external and internal. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## bud091 (Dec 25, 2012)

I think I'm going to do a major down size in tank my clown is about to die and nothing I can do to help him he's breathing really heavy and swimming in one spot only


----------



## bud091 (Dec 25, 2012)

No that my cycling the ich out should i still run my skimmer


----------



## Dax (Sep 29, 2010)

Just run your tank as normal with no fish. As long as there are only corals and inverts in there, the ich will completely die off on its own within 6-8 weeks. If you get ich free fish or treat them before adding to the tank, you will never get ich again.


----------



## Flameangel (Sep 25, 2013)

Dax said:


> Just run your tank as normal with no fish. As long as there are only corals and inverts in there, the ich will completely die off on its own within 6-8 weeks. If you get ich free fish or treat them before adding to the tank, you will never get ich again.


.....never?


----------

