# The Collusive 25G Cube build



## itsru (Oct 15, 2011)

So I'm calling this the "collusive" - as I'm building this tank with advise from everyone here and -> on a budget!

I got a 25 Gallon cube (18" x 18" x 18") (pre-drilled for 1.5" bulkheads) with a stand for what I think was a good deal.
























with it came 
- the 1.5" bulkheads
- 2 stepdown PVC adaptors from 1.5" to 3/4"
- a 1" Ballvalve
- Various PVC adaptors
- 10 ft of 3/4" PVC pipe
- Mag 7 Utility pump

This will be my second saltwater setup and I definitely want a sump!

I picked up a used coralife super skimmer as well with a rio 1100 pump.


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## explor3r (Mar 14, 2010)

Sump for sure is a good option.. nice tank


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## itsru (Oct 15, 2011)

So my first dilemma I am dealing with is the plumbing. - CALLING ALL PLUMBING EXPERTS! - ameekplec, gucci17, talon, sig, shiver905,explor3r (im sure there are more!)

The tank is pre drilled with 2.5" holes and has 1.5" bulkheads. 

I plan on making a DIY overflow box similar to those sold by glass holes. I also plan on using the side hole for this and plan on keeping the overflow at 1.5" to the sump. Should I continue with this idea?

for the return I planned on using the 1.5 to 3/4 step down - since the return is from the bottom I intend on using loc for the return with a Y adaptor and 2 spray nozzles. Should I continue with that idea? 

Will that be enough flow for the cube?

Experienced tank builders -> How should I plumb this tank?


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## Cypher (Apr 15, 2006)

Sweeeeeet man! Told ya you were going to UPGRADE! Lmao!!!!!!!!!


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## itsru (Oct 15, 2011)

Cypher said:


> Sweeeeeet man! Told ya you were going to UPGRADE! Lmao!!!!!!!!!


haha - yeahhh was running out of space for the corals Id like to keep.


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## Chris S (Dec 19, 2007)

I'm not sure I get it...the tank is drilled with a 2.5" hole, but has a 1.5" bulkhead? Who drilled this tank like that, and why? That is a huge hole for such a small tank.


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## sig (Dec 13, 2010)

I will suggest that you reduce sizes (lines) to 1" drain and 3/4 return, otherwise you will have very high overflow rate (which will create problem with the bubbles) in the tank.
I just tried this exercise on the 50G with 1.5" drain. In order to have Eheim 1250 keep up with drain size, I have no choice, but to have valve on the return almost in close position.
Personally, I would shut hole in the middle and build return line on the back of the tank using Flexible Ball Sockets. I simple do not understand how the tank will looks like with the pipe in the middle of the tank. Probably I miss something

Here is advice from WTAC:

"Assuming that the sump is below the display aquarium;

Pump: Eheim 1250; 320gph (~88gph @5'/1.5m head height) 2.2-2.9 turnover rate
Eheim 1260; 635gph (~400gph @5'/1.5m head height) 10-13.3 turnover rate

Drain size; 1x1" minimum"

here is the place for plumbing parts

http://www.aquariumsupplies.ca/flex..._4_101.html?osCsid=4laq5739a4ecchcggm6ceb2na2

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## itsru (Oct 15, 2011)

Chris S said:


> I'm not sure I get it...the tank is drilled with a 2.5" hole, but has a 1.5" bulkhead? Who drilled this tank like that, and why? That is a huge hole for such a small tank.


That is the size you need to drill to fit a 1.5" bulkhead as the bulkhead will fit 1.5" OD piping so it had to be larger. Hence the bulkheads OD is 2.5 -

So for a 1" bulkhead you would need to drill a 1.75" (1 3/4) hole

As for the who and why? - I'm not sure why they drilled it so big (came pre-drilled) I would have done 1 inch bulkheads.


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## itsru (Oct 15, 2011)

sig said:


> I will suggest that you reduce sizes (lines) to 1" drain and 3/4 return, otherwise you will have very high overflow rate (which will create problem with the bubbles) in the tank.
> I just tried this exercise on the 50G with 1.5" drain. In order to have Eheim 1250 keep up with drain size, I have no choice, but to have valve on the return almost in close position.
> Personally, I would shut hole in the middle and build return line on the back of the tank using Flexible Ball Sockets. I simple do not understand how the tank will looks like with the pipe in the middle of the tank. Probably I miss something
> 
> ...


Thanks Sig .. I think I will change it to a 1" overflow. - I was just hoping to not use a powerhead and have enough flow from the mag7 3/4 return and figured a 1.25-1.5 overflow would handle that better since the double 1.5" overflow on glass-holes is rated at 1500GPH
I THOUGHT (probably not) but a 1.5" would handle 700 GPH with a good over flow box.


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## Chris S (Dec 19, 2007)

Oh, yes I understand. Posted that a little late in the night =)

I would suggest the same as sig, 1" drain, 3/4" return. You will likely need to do that anyway (for the return) at some point to plumb in the return pump.

Sorry about that, my bad with a stupid question


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## itsru (Oct 15, 2011)

Chris S said:


> Oh, yes I understand. Posted that a little late in the night =)
> 
> I would suggest the same as sig, 1" drain, 3/4" return. You will likely need to do that anyway (for the return) at some point to plumb in the return pump.
> 
> Sorry about that, my bad with a stupid question


Haha, all good!

So now Im just two parts short a 1.5" to 1" stepdown, and a 3/4 check valve!
also need gaskets and what is everyones thought on gasket lube?

also anyone ever order from http://www.ecoliverock.org/? how was it?


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## wtac (Mar 17, 2006)

I don't recommend restricting the drain line as personally, I would keep the 1.5" diameter for plumbing the aquarium to the sump. This will allow for a fall/flow of water that minimizes the creation of a segment of water that fills the inner diameter of the pipe. This flowing "plug" of water is why we need venting the pipe to prevent that sucking/gurgling/flushing sound as it travels down the pipe. Also, it anything goes/dropped into the overflow plumbing, ie snails, razorblade, etc, it'll just flow through to the other end. If caught, you have problems.

You don't really need gasket lube. Wipe the wet-side of the bulkhead and glass clean of dust and debris with a damp cloth, hand tighten the nut on the dry side and give it a 1/8-1/4 turn with a wrench. I use silicone but one has to be careful not to over tighten it or the gasket will squeeze the gasket out a larger diameter as silicone is slippery when uncured. If for some reason that the nut loosens, the gasket will shrink back a bit and you got a leak that no amount of tightening will fix.

JM2C/E


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## Chris S (Dec 19, 2007)

Just to note, I would take wtac's advice over my own


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## sig (Dec 13, 2010)

To copy Chris words:" Just to note, I would take wtac's advice over my own", but you will need more powerfull pump to deal with 1.5" drain and it will cost more money + you will have higher flow in the sump. I presonally do not like it ( I have this issue in my sump)

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## wtac (Mar 17, 2006)

A drain is just that, a drain. The size is a restricting factor for dealing with the water that must be transferred by gravity from the aquarium to sump.

The flow through the sump is governed by how much water is transferred by means of a pump into the aquarium from the sump which will be the same as what flows from the aquarium to the sump.


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## itsru (Oct 15, 2011)

wtac said:


> A drain is just that, a drain. The size is a restricting factor for dealing with the water that must be transferred by gravity from the aquarium to sump.
> 
> The flow through the sump is governed by how much water is transferred by means of a pump into the aquarium from the sump which will be the same as what flows from the aquarium to the sump.


Wilson thanks for the advice, guess Ill return the 1" elbows and 45s I picked up and get the 1.5 ones, Should I run a 1 inch return or a stick with a 3/4 return?

If the pump is just the MAG7 and its 2.5ft under the tank, do you think I will have a constant gurgling or pouring down the pipe sound with a 1.5" drain? Will I find the pump playing catchup to keep the water level to the top?

(its just a small 25G cube so I doubt that I need more than 650GPH)

Should I just put a screen on the 1.5" bulkhead?

Also side note - for general knowledge, you mentioned avoiding the 1" drain for when a snail/crab gets 'caught' - wouldnt a screen on the bulkhead solve that problem? or am i just allowing a place for buildup to occur?

Also where in toronto (downtown preferably) can I get a 1.5" street elbow?


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## sig (Dec 13, 2010)

itsru said:


> Wilson thanks for the advice, guess Ill return the 1" elbows and 45s I picked up and get the 1.5 ones, Should I run a 1 inch return or a stick with a 3/4 return?
> 
> If the pump is just the MAG7 and its 2.5ft under the tank, do you think I will have a constant gurgling or pouring down the pipe sound with a 1.5" drain? Will I find the pump playing catchup to keep the water level to the top?
> 
> ...


this is for the drain. It is not mine calculations.

GPH Drain Diameter size
200 0.58"
400 0.83"
600 1.01"
800 1.17"
1000 1.31"
1200 1.43"
1400 1.55"
1600 1.65"

"or when a snail/crab gets 'caught' - wouldn't a screen on the bulkhead solve"

you can get strainer in BA or order from mops
http://www.aquariumsupplies.ca/adva...6&osCsid=oh0rqitlb2mdl404ne034ls6a6&x=20&y=15

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## itsru (Oct 15, 2011)

sig said:


> this is for the drain. It is not mine calculations.
> 
> GPH Drain Diameter size
> 200 0.58"
> ...


Sig are those ID figures? - also none of those strainers would work with a shallow overflow box. might have to be a diy there too.

This list of DIY projects is getting pretty long, and I only plan on starting the cycle after the holiday season, at this rate I might as well partake in the 2012 NANO Contest.


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## wtac (Mar 17, 2006)

I recommend that you get an acrylic overflow box and silicone it into place. It will be more effective than a screened cap for skimming the surface water for oils and crap.

Have the teeth cut 2" deep and request that the back that will be siliconed to the glass have a ~1/2" "lip" on the 3sides for more surface adhesion.

The box should be at least 6" wide and a back to front length if at least 2" and tall enough to go past the bulkhead by at least 1".

JM2C/E/HTH


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## itsru (Oct 15, 2011)

wtac said:


> I recommend that you get an acrylic overflow box and silicone it into place. It will be more effective than a screened cap for skimming the surface water for oils and crap.
> 
> Have the teeth cut 2" deep and request that the back that will be siliconed to the glass have a ~1/2" "lip" on the 3sides for more surface adhesion.
> 
> ...


Wilson, do you have a drawing of the box you'd recommend? I plan on building it myself.

Also how much space should i have between the end of the bulkhead and the front wall of the overflow box? the 1.5" bulkhead sticks 2.5 inches into the tank, maybe ill pickup a shorter 1.5" bulkhead


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## sig (Dec 13, 2010)

itsru said:


> Wilson, do you have a drawing of the box you'd recommend? I plan on building it myself.
> 
> Also how much space should i have between the end of the bulkhead and the front wall of the overflow box? the 1.5" bulkhead sticks 2.5 inches into the tank, maybe ill pickup a shorter 1.5" bulkhead


go to BA and measure them, They always have it in stock

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## itsru (Oct 15, 2011)

sig said:


> go to BA and measure them, They always have it in stock


Where can I get a short 1.5" bulkhead, a 1.5" street elbow, unions, ball valve and pipe?


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## 50seven (Feb 14, 2010)

Maybe look on BulkReefSupply and see if you can still get in to the group buy we have going on. Otherwise try MOPS or a plumbing supply house


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## wtac (Mar 17, 2006)

The sticking out part of the bulkhead should be on the outside and generally are all the same length for Rainbow Lifeguard and generics. Hayward bulkheads have the shortest stem and would best serve what you want. IIRC, BA sells them in the $25 range.

The OF box to silicone in is like this:

link

The back has no complete acrylic panel but think of it as a Eurobrace. This is how one creates more surface area to silicone it to the back pane of glass.

As mentioned, I recommend at least 8" wide, 2-3" back to front to clear the top trim and be able to retrieve, use a stick to push whatever accidentally goes into it and tall enough to clear the bulkhead.

Hope I explained it better this time .


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## itsru (Oct 15, 2011)

So the current status is -

I've bought all the plumbing and I definitely didnt expect the plumbing to come to 100 alone!.. expecting deliveries from BRS and MOPS while Im out on vacay
I have to paint the pvc parts 
I got a 2.5G tank with betta divider glass panes that I can just silicone down to be a sump (Crazy small sump)
Due to the small sump size I decided to lower the flow through the sump by slowing the return pump - that would work right? - this also led to sizing the drain to 1"
I and altcharacter plan to build DIY Overflow boxes from acrylic from plasticworld.ca

Need help deciding

LEDs/T5HO/Halide? 
Current plan to is have the return from the bottom with the loc Y right at the bottom of the tank - above the 2" sand layer, I have a ball valve and a check valve inline for the return but - Should I play it safe and put a 3/4 pipe in the tank to the top and have the loc y adaptor attached to the top, so incase the pump stops and the check valve fails I wouldnt have a flood?


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## altcharacter (Jan 10, 2011)

I found out quick that this hobby ain't that cheap =P

I'll be heading to get the acrylic tomorrow


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## 50seven (Feb 14, 2010)

altcharacter said:


> I found out quick that this hobby ain't that cheap =P




What kind of lights came with the tank?

If you can live with them for a while, then save up for a good LED set if you plan on reefing for a long time. Otherwise T5's work great for me.


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## ameekplec. (May 1, 2008)

Definitely play it safe. Since you're going through the bottom, you run the risk of emptying your entire tank should any component fail.

I'd either just plug the bottom hole, or like you suggested, run plumbing inside the tank out the top of the tank and down again. Personally, I'd just plug the bottom and go up behind the tank with your plumbing.

If you've got the budget, I'd get a small LED fixture. I bet a PAR38 bulb would be enough for this tank, but if it isn't too much of a rent-eater, I'd get a AI Sol Nano


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## itsru (Oct 15, 2011)

50seven said:


> What kind of lights came with the tank?
> 
> If you can live with them for a while, then save up for a good LED set if you plan on reefing for a long time. Otherwise T5's work great for me.


No lights came with the tank, I was debating a 18" overhead but have been looking at DIY LEDs



ameekplec. said:


> Definitely play it safe. Since you're going through the bottom, you run the risk of emptying your entire tank should any component fail.
> 
> I'd either just plug the bottom hole, or like you suggested, run plumbing inside the tank out the top of the tank and down again. Personally, I'd just plug the bottom and go up behind the tank with your plumbing.
> 
> If you've got the budget, I'd get a small LED fixture. I bet a PAR38 bulb would be enough for this tank, but if it isn't too much of a rent-eater, I'd get a AI Sol Nano


I now regret spending soo much on the 3/4 check valve and the two unions for it :S.. ill see how ugly it is if I run the return inside the tank, definitely have enough 3/4 pipe.


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## altcharacter (Jan 10, 2011)

Go with a LED setup. In my opinion they're pretty awesome, especially for your square setup.

Also, I picked up some acrylic today but they didn't have any smoke or black end cuts so I just picked up some clear. I figure we could just make a box as a test and go with that for now until some darker colors are available.


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## itsru (Oct 15, 2011)

So I'm back from a month of vacay and ready to spend the next week finalizing the tank. Need to figure out the DIY overflow and the sump, all the plumbing has been done and is ready to be filled.

Also made my way out to NAFB and got some rock that Im eager to scape!

Here is a little tease of the lighting! - 24 DIY Led kit from AquaStyleOnline.com (12 White, 10 Blue, 2 UV)

Here is plastering them and tinning the led pads.









All lit up! - next I need to look at a custom arduino controller with a 1024 step 10K pot or the DIM4 (if possible)..


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## altcharacter (Jan 10, 2011)

awesome light setup man! Call me already and i'll bring over your goodies.


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## itsru (Oct 15, 2011)

So it's been a while but I'm FINALLY cycling..

still building the sump so Im just cycling with a 5 Gallon bucket where the sump goes.

Here is the tank finally built, still working out the minor details on the overflow box. 

















Filling it up  (had to run two heaters till the new 150 got in)








.. love how much we play with water and electricity 

Little androids watching the tank cycle.









Also.. just got home and had a nice package waiting for me! -- got everything from goreef .. no one else could price match for the apex! and their $60 phosban kit was an awesome deal!


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## itsru (Oct 15, 2011)

So after the tank got done cycling, I waited a week and then on the 23rd of February I picked up

1 Brittle Sea Star
8 Cerith Snails
1 Mexican Turbo Snail

here is a pic of some of them during the acclimation 









I let them clean up the place until the 5th of March, then I drip acclimated my entire 6 Gallon tank over 6 hours.

pic of the prep to acclimate 









It has been a week since then (today being the 11th of March). Here are two videos I took (with my cellphone) just two days after adding the livestock to the cube.

My clownfish hosting its RBTA in their new home <- they have since moved to a new location in the tank

The brittle sea star tries to climb the glass

and here is a picture I took BEFORE I did the final aquascape and epoxied everything in place.










Sadly the blue acro had RTN, and the green milli is showing some signs of it but has stopped. fingers crossed. Also made some noob mistakes as this was my first aquascape ever and over used the pink/purple epoxy in some places

any and all feedback/questions welcomed! Also looking to get a Vortech MP10


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## teemee (Aug 29, 2009)

be careful with your brittle star. I've read on wet web media that the green spiky ones will actually go after fish.
set up looks really nice, though!


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## itsru (Oct 15, 2011)

teemee said:


> be careful with your brittle star. I've read on wet web media that the green spiky ones will actually go after fish.
> set up looks really nice, though!


Hmm I'll have to keep an eye out to make sure he doesn't harm the clown fish . thanks for the heads up. I want to get an orange Linckia too maybe just a replacement :-s .. I only have one clown fish now but want to get some gobies. Any other nano compatible fish recommendations?


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