# resealing 90 gallon again, need opinions



## pyrrolin (Jan 11, 2012)

I had a 90 gallon tank start to leak on me just before xmas and finally working on it now. I had resealed it 6 months ago and spent days scraping the old silicone off. I had resealed it not long before this and it leaked soon after.

both of the other times I used GE silicone I, the last time I payed extra attention to making sure it was cleaned totally with razor blades. I used some rubbing alchol to make sure oils from my fingers were on the glass. Basically I did everything right but 6 months later it leaked. I have resealed other tanks such as a 75, 25 and 10 gallons with no failure at all. The 90 has been my only problem tank.

This time I am using GE SCS1200 to reseal it. I also plan to use acetone after scraping all I can just to make sure.

One option I believe I have is to take the tank totally apart. The trim is all one piece for each of the top and bottom, its a hagen tank. I am thinking I can clean all the glass pieces individually and put it back together and have everything square with the top and bottom trim.

I don't mind the extra work of cleaning the glass if I take it apart. My main concern is if I take it apart and I'm not able to use the trim to make it all square easily then I'm in a little bit of trouble. Buying clamps to hold things together is just not in the budget.

So has anyone put a tank back together by using the trim to keep things right?

Because the tank has leaked before even after doing a good job, I want to make sure this is the last time I reseal this tank. I need to decide if I just keep the structure together and reseal it or take it all apart and rebuild it. I wish I had $259 plus tax to just buy a new tank but I don't.


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## xriddler (Feb 16, 2012)

sorry this is a off topic but where were you able to buy ge scs1200?


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## pyrrolin (Jan 11, 2012)

http://aquashop.ca/indexen.html


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## Y2KGT (Jul 20, 2009)

You could have bought one at Big Al's during their Boxing Week Sale for $159.99.

I would just sell it as a reptile tank for $90 and buy a new one when Big Al's has their Tank Riot Sale or one of their other bi-monthly sales.

I think the most important seal is the one between the glass panels and therefore unless you take it apart as you described and redo the whole thing its still going to leak at some point. Silicone won't stick to old silicone therefore the stuff you're adding is not going to adhere to the old seam.
--
Paul


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## pyrrolin (Jan 11, 2012)

leaning towards total rebuild of the tank, but not positive yet. I think it will be easy because of the top and bottom trim


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## Y2KGT (Jul 20, 2009)

A few years ago I was trying to install one of those beautiful Pangea backgrounds into my 90 gallon tank and after paying $500 for the background I didn't want to cut it into pieces to fit it into the tank so I cut the top brace instead. 

I had seen a tank at Big Al's where they had done the same thing and it was there for many months without any issue so I figured it was OK. 

Well after almost 2 years I decided that I better replace the top trim before my tank exploded and spilled 90 gallons of water all over my hardwood floors so I ordered one from Miracles. When I went to remove the old trim from my Perfecto tank I couldn't believe how difficult it was. The trim is siliconed in place and no matter how much I tried cutting the silicone with an exacto knife I couldn't get it off. I ended up removing it in many pieces instead.

Just wanted to let you know that you'll probably find you're in the same predicament.

Good luck.
--
Paul


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## pyrrolin (Jan 11, 2012)

Actually I already removed the top trim for another reason and it wasnt too hard, I hope he bottom is as easy. I just picked up some acetone which I will use nobody what way I decide to do things.

If I do rebuild it, the hard part is probably going to be getting the glass pieces separated as most of the silicone from the original build is still there.


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## pyrrolin (Jan 11, 2012)

I went ahead and took it all apart. I used a piece of metal wire to cut through the seams after using the razor blade part way through.

I just hope I can get it all back together easily, assuming I don't break a piece of glass before then.


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## BillD (Jun 5, 2006)

Was the tank built with the sides on top of the bottom or with a suspended bottom in side of the sides? My 30 gal Hagen was a suspended bottom and is the only reseal to fail on me. I removed the bottom and refitted and resealed a few years ago and it is still fine.
Having the trim will facilitate the reassembly, perhaps, but you will need to plan carefully and move quickly. A helper might make things easier and allow you to move more quickly.The 1200 silicone is supposed to be significantly stronger than GE I, which doesn't matter for a reseal but may make for a better build. Good luck.


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## xriddler (Feb 16, 2012)

BillD said:


> Was the tank built with the sides on top of the bottom or with a suspended bottom in side of the sides?


BillD do you mind explaining the differnce this posses for a tank?so in the future if i get MTS i know which tanks are made better and which to purchase.


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## pyrrolin (Jan 11, 2012)

its a suspended bottom and where the leaks have been. So I decided to rebuild it so that the main structure is water tight.

Basically if a tank is well build, you don't really need the silicone that you can see, you just need what is holding the glass pieces together. Doing a rebuild fixes the main structure. I will be doing the extra bead and smothing it to look good still.


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## pyrrolin (Jan 11, 2012)

Just finished removing all the old silicone.

Now I just have to clean the glass with my vinegar and distilled water solution and plan how to put it back together.

I will have to put it together without silicone at first so that I can tape the 4 corners to make my work nice and neat. This dry build will also help me figure out how to put it back together.


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## pyrrolin (Jan 11, 2012)

I just rebuilt the 90 gallon aquarium, going to wait until wed to water test it. If it leaks again, its going to be sold as a terrarium. I have done everything possible to make this tank be properly sealed.


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## Ryan.Wilton (Dec 12, 2012)

I have an idea. Reseal it right now before you fill it up again.

A secondary seal over the existing one may help. Also, you could always try.... not sealing it at all and just give it up  I'll buy it from you if you can deliver it.


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## pyrrolin (Jan 11, 2012)

I just filled it up for testing, so far so good, I'm in kingston so delivery wouldn't work. Im going to water test it for probably 2 days

You can't silicone over silicone, doesnt stick to itself

the main problem with the tank is that the bottom glass is not the same widge as the sides, which they should be the same size, This leaves a larger gap at the front and back where the silicone is holding all the weight instead of glass


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## snaggle (Feb 19, 2010)

Use acetone to clean off the old silicone, it will evaporate off and leave little to no residue.


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## BillD (Jun 5, 2006)

Acetone will not clean off the old silicone. It will clean all sorts of residues such as skin oils that would hinder good adhesion. 
The reason the bottom glass is smaller than the ends is to allow the placement of silicone between the bottom pane and the front/back pieces. I don't really like that type of construction, as I don't believe the build is as strong as a sides on bottom. It will withstand torquing better perhaps, but at the expense of strength. It also needs to have a bottom rim to be effective.


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## pyrrolin (Jan 11, 2012)

Once the wife is home to help me, going to move the tank to it's spot and put in my sand and fill it up for a while to make sure it can handle that weight, the sand adds 100 pounds.

If all seems good after a while, will move everything back over


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## Ryan.Wilton (Dec 12, 2012)

Be careful Pyr. I really hope it don't leak. As I said, if I was you I'd sell it as a terrarium for $80-$100. Buy a new tank and set up something that you know will not leak.


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## pyrrolin (Jan 11, 2012)

So far its passing testing, even put the substrate in, some potting soil and then that new dark sand I found. I have filled and drained it a few times to clear some junk up from the soil and will try to wait a bit more before moving the fish back. I can't wait to see how it all looks with the new dark sand

Because I totally rebuilt it, I am confident it will be fine now, if it leaks again at the bottom, Its going to be sold as a terrarium for sure.


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## Fishfur (Mar 4, 2012)

BiilD, when you say 'sides on bottom', you mean having the side pieces of glass actually resting on the bottom piece, with the silicone in between, right ?
To be honest, I thought all tanks were made that way.. surprised to learn they aren't. Learn something new every day.


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## pyrrolin (Jan 11, 2012)

the way the trim is designed, the bottom glass is about an inch above the bottom of the virtical glass, floating bottom. It works because of the one piece trim design.

when I rebult it somehow one of the corners moved and made a mess of the silicone. But because there is all new silcone between the glass parts, it is holding fine. A well made tank doesnt need to have visible silicone, but its nice to have the extra for piece of mind.

I just have to paint the back and one side and then I'll be posting pics to show the new dark sand, which I do like the look of so far.


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## BillD (Jun 5, 2006)

Fishfur said:


> BiilD, when you say 'sides on bottom', you mean having the side pieces of glass actually resting on the bottom piece, with the silicone in between, right ?
> To be honest, I thought all tanks were made that way.. surprised to learn they aren't. Learn something new every day.


The idea of the floating bottom is that it allows for more torquing of the tank without failure. You can build them like that without the trim, but it makes the corners and bottom edges of the tank rather fragile. Personally, I prefer the sides on bottom as I believe it is a stronger construction. The silicone needs to keep the sides from spreading out but not the weight of the tank. In a floating bottom, it has to do both, although it is generally used with trim and the trim helps hold it together. I also don't like a tank that needs the trim to form the structure. We have all seen posts on forums of failed plastic cross braces. I have a 90 I repaired that has both top and bottom trims with cracks from shrinkage and the center brace was starting to go. I don't much care about the trim cracks, as they are mostly cosmetic, but I did add a glass center brace.


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## Spicoli (Dec 11, 2012)

So any tips, i'm about to resilcone my 75 fishroom tank. silcone is cleaned off all i need to do is alcohol tape and caulk.

It didn't leak before but i felt it should be done


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## pyrrolin (Jan 11, 2012)

make sure you put on a brand new blade and go over it again to be sure. I use painters tape on the virticals to help keep it neat and tidy. after you tape it, go over it again fast with alchol to make sure there are no finger oils.


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## pyrrolin (Jan 11, 2012)

make sure the silicone does not have anything that kills mold and stuff. If you are using GE brand, make sure its silicone I not silicone II.


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## Spicoli (Dec 11, 2012)

Well i resealed it last night, not sure how the beads of silicone i ran are. With the back and sides painted its tough to see the clear silicone. Also taking off the tape afterwards was probably the worst part and it was during that i figure i may have F'ed up my silicone job. Water test on friday and we will see how i did.


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## pyrrolin (Jan 11, 2012)

gotta take the tape of asap, also leave extra tabs so you can grab it easy.


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## Spicoli (Dec 11, 2012)

I took it off right away, but being an idiot i didn't leave pull tabs to get it back off. I actually stuck it as good as i could making it even tougher. After having a night to cure i can see the job is actually pretty good. so i hope it stays dry, it didn't leak before so I hope i didn't change that lol.


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## pyrrolin (Jan 11, 2012)

If it didnt leak before, you should be perfectly fine. I wouldn't worry at all


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## Spicoli (Dec 11, 2012)

Well, upon second inspection the seals are all good, but it seems like it left to "thin" a bead of caulking in some areas. Does it matter how much bulk there is? Like not width of bead but actual silicone thickness.


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## pyrrolin (Jan 11, 2012)

yes and no, to be safe, give it a 48 hour water test in a safe area. Maybe put in extra weight to account for substrate and any hardscaping stuff you may add. I know in my 90, just the substrate and stuff I have adds about 100 pounds


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## Spicoli (Dec 11, 2012)

Well, it's been stripped and caulked again lol. Wasn't happy with it. Now i feel i've done a better job. 3rd coat of paint on sides and back and we should be in business sunday afternoon,


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