# Let the build begin. 120 Gallon replacement



## DamFish

Long time in planning after the seal let go on my 65 Gal back in Sept. 
My lovely wife has blessed the new tank acquisition and after a visit to see Derek at Miracles today the new tank is underway.








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They will be adding the Euro Brace to the top and a inner Euro brace to the bottom. No more leaks for my understanding wife. 
I had wanted centre overflow with returns at each end but as I want to do the build over the Christmas break I had to work with what they had in stock. Apparently they get a few people who order and then hit hard times so, someone else's misfortune became my good fortune.








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## altcharacter

Nice tank!! Hope you get it home and setup real soon.

I'm a fan of the corner overflow now since I tried a few things with my new tank. The front to back measurement for mine was 18" and I found when I put the powerheads on the back all of the sand in the front was pushed towards the back glass...leaving bare spots. So I'm not a real fan of putting returns and powerheads on the back glass anymore.

As for the durso, try checking out the Stockman mod for the durso pipe. This is what I put in my tank and it saved alot of room and headaches. If you wanted to come over and look at it you're more than welcome!


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## DamFish

altcharacter said:


> Nice tank!! Hope you get it home and setup real soon.
> 
> I'm a fan of the corner overflow now since I tried a few things with my new tank. The front to back measurement for mine was 18" and I found when I put the powerheads on the back all of the sand in the front was pushed towards the back glass...leaving bare spots. So I'm not a real fan of putting returns and powerheads on the back glass anymore.
> 
> As for the durso, try checking out the Stockman mod for the durso pipe. This is what I put in my tank and it saved alot of room and headaches. If you wanted to come over and look at it you're more than welcome!


Thanks Alrcharater
That's just the kind of help I was hoping for when I posted. I'll look up the Stockman tonight. Saving room has been on my mind since I decided on the euro brace and trying to fit everything into the overflow. 
A 24" x 24" has been a dream for the past few years. Cannot wait to aqua scape this bad boy


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## 50seven

Nice tank! Good luck with the build!


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## DamFish

*Looks like a Herbie*

Interesting reading. Even found something called a Maggie Muffler  but after 2 hrs of searching I think the Herbie might be the way to go. I believe I will make up a Stockman as a back up as well. Still have two weeks to decide as I build the stand.



altcharacter said:


> Nice tank!! Hope you get it home and setup real soon.
> 
> I'm a fan of the corner overflow now since I tried a few things with my new tank. The front to back measurement for mine was 18" and I found when I put the powerheads on the back all of the sand in the front was pushed towards the back glass...leaving bare spots. So I'm not a real fan of putting returns and powerheads on the back glass anymore.
> 
> As for the durso, try checking out the Stockman mod for the durso pipe. This is what I put in my tank and it saved alot of room and headaches. If you wanted to come over and look at it you're more than welcome!


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## altcharacter

A herbie is a great idea but takes up a bit more space. I would have gone with a herbie if I had a tank more in the range of 75+ gallons.


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## fury165

You will need one more pipe to do the Herbie but it is worth it. Just remember to account for the pipes and valves in your stand design.


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## fury165

Oh wait, just looked at your drawing and noticed the return sitting outside of the overflow on the opposite side.... If your tank is already drilled for the two drains then you are set. The durso isn't required as one pipe will be completely submerged and the other pipe (emergency) will be higher and only come into play if for some reason the main pipe becomes clogged and the water rises above the normal level. 

Just make sure that the main pipe is also under water in the sump and you will have a dead silent set up. I would also suggest you don't submerge the emergency pipe in the sump.. Why? Because if there is an issue and the emergency pipe goes into action you will hear the water exiting the pipe. 

Btw how big are the drain pipes?


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## DamFish

I plan to use both of the 1" Bulkheads in the overflow for the Herbie drain and the emergency back up. I think that completes the Herbie set up from my researching.



fury165 said:


> You will need one more pipe to do the Herbie but it is worth it. Just remember to account for the pipes and valves in your stand design.


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## fury165

DamFish said:


> I plan to use both of the 1" Bulkheads in the overflow for the Herbie drain and the emergency back up. I think that completes the Herbie set up from my researching.


Almost... Don't forget that for the Herbie to work you need to make micro adjustments using a GATE valve not a ball valve. You also should put basket strainers on the top of the pipes to prevent snails or fish from getting in there.


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## fury165

Here is a good write up on the Herbie method, although i disagree with their comment about the use of either a gate or ball valve... I wish I had seen it before i did the heights on the pipes. My main pipe is too high up in comparison to the emergency.

http://gmacreef.com/herbie-overflow-reef-tank-plumbing-method-basics/


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## sig

I suggest to fill it with water first and to make sure the tank is OK

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## DamFish

Thanks for the feedback Fury
Both drains are drilled for 1" bulkheads and the 3/4" returns is being added next week. I will have to redraw the diagram with the herbie and I will add the screens



fury165 said:


> Oh wait, just looked at your drawing and noticed the return sitting outside of the overflow on the opposite side.... If your tank is already drilled for the two drains then you are set. The durso isn't required as one pipe will be completely submerged and the other pipe (emergency) will be higher and only come into play if for some reason the main pipe becomes clogged and the water rises above the normal level.
> 
> Just make sure that the main pipe is also under water in the sump and you will have a dead silent set up. I would also suggest you don't submerge the emergency pipe in the sump.. Why? Because if there is an issue and the emergency pipe goes into action you will hear the water exiting the pipe.
> 
> Btw how big are the drain pipes?


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## 12273

That's gonna be a sweet tank! I'm jealous! I'm following because my wife approved a bigger tank in the basement and Altcharacter heard her say it! 

She can't take it back now. In my head I can already invision a 150 gallon cube . Or bigger!!!!! 


Sent from my iPhone with auto correct. Can't you tell?


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## altcharacter

For your size tank you might want to go with a larger size pipe. My 50g has a 1" durso


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## sig

aquaman1 said:


> I'm following because my wife approved a bigger tank in the basement and Altcharacter heard her say it!
> 
> She can't take it back now. In my head I can already invision a 150 gallon cube . Or bigger!!!!!
> 
> Sent from my iPhone with auto correct. Can't you tell?


do it now, before you will spoil floors somewhere and permission will be taken back 

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## 12273

LMAO! 

I actually borough that up to her. I told her at least if the basement tank floods it's better than on main floors . I got an eye roll but that was it! 



Sent from my iPhone with auto correct. Can't you tell?


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## fesso clown

altcharacter said:


> For your size tank you might want to go with a larger size pipe. My 50g has a 1" durso


Actually he will be fine. At 2 feet of head height (drain to sump) a 1 inch pipe will deliver 1666.92 GPH under full syphon.

http://www.beananimal.com/articles/hydraulics-for-the-aquarist.aspx

You will as stated earlier benefit form a gate valve on your main syphon line to match the GPH rate of your return pump.


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## fury165

aquaman1 said:


> LMAO!
> 
> I actually borough that up to her. I told her at least if the basement tank floods it's better than on main floors . I got an eye roll but that was it!
> 
> Sent from my iPhone with auto correct. Can't you tell?


Amateurs... . Always go overboard with what you tell her and compromise by downsizing to what you _really_ want lol....

My wife woke up one weekend to me taping up the floor for a 6 foot tank - freaked out that it was a monstrosity but agreed I could have a _smaller_ tank lol. Ah well should have taped up a 12 footer


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## fury165

Oh rule numbers 2 and 3 of reef club
2. Never pay for purchases with CC that she can see at the end of the month. 
3. *everything* costs less than $50.00


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## Taipan

*Great Advice.....*

Wise, Sage, advice from Fury165. Take it to heart.


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## DamFish

fesso clown said:


> Actually he will be fine. At 2 feet of head height (drain to sump) a 1 inch pipe will deliver 1666.92 GPH under full syphon.
> 
> http://www.beananimal.com/articles/hydraulics-for-the-aquarist.aspx
> 
> You will as stated earlier benefit form a gate valve on your main syphon line to match the GPH rate of your return pump.


Thanks fresco. The gate valve is a definite. I think I have two left over from my basement sump build last year.


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## DamFish

fury165 said:


> Oh rule numbers 2 and 3 of reef club
> 2. Never pay for purchases with CC that she can see at the end of the month.
> 3. *everything* costs less than $50.00


I got very lucky with a great wife and I had a customer buy 4 small tanks from me last year for a tool display. Therefore everything aquarium is now a "business expense". 
But that said everything I buy was selling for "50% off Honey".


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## altcharacter

I tend to find that I tell my wife the truth about the cost of things for the tank. When she goes to the coral shops and check out the prices of the items she wants she is always surprised by the prices and I just laugh. "How much do you think our MP10 cost!" Which she actually knows 

Any purchases done for our tank are usually done with money made from the tank. So any frags or other items purchased and sold go right back into the tank. That and we have a really great community here that accepts sausage and beers as payment for saltwater items.


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## sig

DamFish said:


> I got very lucky with a great wife ".


for sure you do, because you were smart enough to married Russian lady 

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## DamFish

Very very true. Bolshoy Spaciba



sig said:


> for sure you do, because you were smart enough to married Russian lady


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## DamFish

*Cycling new sand*

So is there a fast safe way to cycle 120-150 lbs of sand?
I feel like a beginner again. 
I have 120 lbs of live rock from the old DP in my 100 gallon sump right now. I also have the softies that survived the 3 AM emergency move when the last tank sprung a leak as well as fish (File fish, Blue Tang, Bangai Cardinal, a pair of clown fish and the happiest Manderin gobi) so the cycling is a great concern.

I will obviously be using new sand in the new tank and therefore there will be a cycle if I add it all at once. I was thinking I could set up the new tank and the just connect it to the sump. Gives the system an instant 60% water change and then add the sand slowly over a few weeks but I want this aqua scaped as soon as i can.

*My best idea is:*
I also have a 50 gallon, some pumps and an Octopus skimmer that are empty right now. I was thinking I could fill and add sand the to it and run it for the next 4 weeks but that much sand would be 6-8" deep in that tank. Would it fully cycle?

Any thoughts are greatly appreciated.


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## liz

If you try to "cycle" your sand now in the 50gl it will re-cycle once you add it to the main display. It could actually make the cycle longer from disturbing the sand when you move it. 

I would wait to add the sand when you add the LR to the new tank and then sit back and wait while everything does their thing?

JMTC, Liz


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## sig

Liz is correct
cycle the sand . are you guys serious? you can seed it in the basket but it is different story. IMO

I went with adding new sand at once and It always worked fine. For sure new water was added also. Was getting very small amount of diatom (brown algae) on the sand, but it was gone within 2 weeks with water changes and GFO/carbon ruining 
Never lost a fish or coral
29 > 80
80 > 120
120>150

Here is how I will do it. 
New water >>> New and old sand in the new tank >>> old rocks>>> landscaping >>>set temperature in the new tank>>> connect sump >> start the pump >> new tank rums >> enjoy the new beauty.

but I do not know if you seen what I said before.

FILL THE TANK WITH THE WATER AND LET IT SIT FOR A FEW SAYS, before doing anything

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## DamFish

Hi Greg
Will definitely test fill first. She maybe a great wife but I will not survive another flooded Dining room hardwood floor. Also the reason I went with the internal euro brace at the bottom of the tank. 

Although you are probably the expert on here when it comes to upgrading tanks to bigger and bigger, I am still nervous about cycling the sand with the fish in but I will continue to investigate.



sig said:


> cycle the sand . are you guys serious? you can seed it in the basket but it is different story. IMO
> 
> I went with adding new sand at once and It always worked fine. For sure new water was added also. Was getting very small amount of diatom (brown algae) on the sand, but it was gone within 2 weeks with water changes and GFO/carbon ruining
> Never lost a fish or coral
> 29 > 80
> 80 > 120
> 120>150
> 
> Here is how I will do it.
> New water >>> New and old sand in the new tank >>> old rocks>>> landscaping >>>set temperature in the new tank>>> connect sump >> start the pump >> new tank rums >> enjoy the new beauty.
> 
> but I do not know if you seen what I said before.
> 
> FILL THE TANK WITH THE WATER AND LET IT SIT FOR A FEW SAYS, before doing anything


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## DamFish

liz said:


> If you try to "cycle" your sand now in the 50gl it will re-cycle once you add it to the main display. It could actually make the cycle longer from disturbing the sand when you move it.
> 
> I would wait to add the sand when you add the LR to the new tank and then sit back and wait while everything does their thing?
> 
> JMTC, Liz


Agree
I think a better use of the 50 gal. will be a temporary tank for the fish while the display cycles.


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## sig

DamFish said:


> Hi Greg
> W
> Although you are probably the expert on here when it comes to upgrading tanks to bigger and bigger, I am still nervous about cycling the sand with the fish in but I will continue to investigate.


I am not sure that having just sand in the water can be called "cycle". I assume the purpose of the cycling is to establish stable biological environment and it does not matter how long will you "cycle" sand , but at the moment you will connect/start you sump and add rock/fishes - you tank will start cycling again.

It is just my opinion, but I think many people did the same when switched to the bigger tank. Usually, all movement done in one day

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## DamFish

sig said:


> I am not sure that having just sand in the water can be called "cycle". I assume the purpose of the cycling is to establish stable biological environment and it does not matter how long will you "cycle" sand , but at the moment you will connect/start you sump and add rock/fishes - you tank will start cycling again.
> 
> It is just my opinion, but I think many people did the same when switched to the bigger tank. Usually, all movement done in one day


My guess is the live rock and existing 90 gal sump will offset any cycle ammonia spike.


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## sig

I can not say anything for sure, but I just state what was always working for me

by saying " ..My guess is the live rock and existing 90 gal sump will offset any cycle ammonia spike.:" - you just prove my point that you can add everything in one day 

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## DamFish

sig said:


> I can not say anything for sure, but I just state what was always working for me
> 
> by saying " ..My guess is the live rock and existing 90 gal sump will offset any cycle ammonia spike.:" - you just prove my point that you can add everything in one day


Did I not say you were the local expert on Upsizing your tank


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## DamFish

*New sand*

So I will need about 150 lbs of sand and I am looking at CaribSea Aragamax Select Sand. As I hope to support some SPS and will have a high flow, is my sand choice sound. It seems like a happy middle ground between sugar and crushed coral.
Also found it on line at GOREEF .com at $45 (incl. shipping) for 30 lbs. Anyone know of a cheaper source?


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## Taipan

$45 including the shipping is good. IF you happen to be around the area of North American Fish Breeders (NAFB) on Kingston Road sometime; I know they would probably sell it for a little less. Factor in time and convenience though. And CALL for availability first - although they usually carry it.


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## altcharacter

Exactly what Red said. I went there when I was building my tank around 5 months ago and it just happened that someone had just come in the day before and swooped up pretty much all of their substrate so I had to wait. John and Ezra are really nice people to deal with.


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## Car2n

DamFish said:


> So I will need about 150 lbs of sand and I am looking at CaribSea Aragamax Select Sand. As I hope to support some SPS and will have a high flow, is my sand choice sound. It seems like a happy middle ground between sugar and crushed coral.
> Also found it on line at GOREEF .com at $45 (incl. shipping) for 30 lbs. Anyone know of a cheaper source?


Dr's Foster & Smith
flat rate shipping of $18 no matter how much weight you order. I bought 60 pounds of Ocean Direct and even with shipping, taxes and the exchange rate I till came out cheaper than Big Als and delivered right to my door.


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## Kweli

fury165 said:


> Oh rule numbers 2 and 3 of reef club
> 2. Never pay for purchases with CC that she can see at the end of the month.
> 3. *everything* costs less than $50.00


Rules to live by.

Or throw in "He threw it in for free! Man, those guys from GTAaquaria are so awesome"


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## DamFish

Taipan said:


> $45 including the shipping is good. IF you happen to be around the area of North American Fish Breeders (NAFB) on Kingston Road sometime; I know they would probably sell it for a little less. Factor in time and convenience though. And CALL for availability first - although they usually carry it.


Not complaining about $45 but rather keep it in the local supplier community
Haven't been down there in a few years but I will call or email and ask. I have some time to wait for them to get it in. Thanks


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## DamFish

*They are Awesome*



Kweli said:


> Rules to live by.
> 
> Or throw in "He threw it in for free! Man, those guys from GTAaquaria are so awesome"


They are awesome and They are always trying to throw something in for free


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## CRJ

my advise dealing with miracles. confirm shipping, and over communicate. it seems alot gets lost in communications with them. be sure you go over every last detail. i had bubbles, a scratch, and a few other issues. 

also, i told them my projected GPH pump, and the overflow they suggested cant handle the water flow, raising the water level over the top. 


They can build a very nice aquarium, i just know the next round ill be up their back about every last detail. 



Otherwise, nice start and good luck! oh, avoid starphire. i hand scrubbed my tank with a sponge, and it still scratched.


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## duckhams

CRJ said:


> my advise dealing with miracles. confirm shipping, and over communicate. it seems alot gets lost in communications with them. be sure you go over every last detail. i had bubbles, a scratch, and a few other issues.
> 
> also, i told them my projected GPH pump, and the overflow they suggested cant handle the water flow, raising the water level over the top.
> 
> They can build a very nice aquarium, i just know the next round ill be up their back about every last detail.
> 
> Otherwise, nice start and good luck! oh, avoid starphire. i hand scrubbed my tank with a sponge, and it still scratched.


I have a starphire tank from Miracles and have never had issue's with it scratching from a sponge? there was probably something stuck to the sponge that scratched it. 
I do have a few bubbles in the silicone though, that does happen in custom tanks from time to time. It's not something im personally bothered about, I never notice it, nor have I ever had anyone comment on it, but that can be frustrating when you inspect a new tank, especially if it's a custom tank that was expensive.


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## DamFish

duckhams said:


> I have a starphire tank from Miracles and have never had issue's with it scratching from a sponge? there was probably something stuck to the sponge that scratched it.
> I do have a few bubbles in the silicone though, that does happen in custom tanks from time to time. It's not something im personally bothered about, I never notice it, nor have I ever had anyone comment on it, but that can be frustrating when you inspect a new tank, especially if it's a custom tank that was expensive.


No staphire for me. but that was more of a financial decision. 
Mr Duckhams, I Almost went for your tank after reading your build but the deal on this tank and the timing were too good to pass up.
It actually amazes me how great Derek is at dealing with the public. He has responded to every email and I am sure that everyone who orders directly must send a dozen or more emails as we are all over protective fish parents and reef husbands.


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## DamFish

*Stand starts*

The tube was cut and the welding will be done tomorrow. I am going with 1.5" 10 gauge steel tube and will cover it with wood. I will have extra room inside using the tube instead of wood for the frame.


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## 12273

Hey. Did you do the metal work yourself? I wish I would have seen that's what you wanted to do before  my dads shop has access to different metals and maybe could have saved ya a couple bucks. 

It's a great idea and looks good so far! 


Sent from my iPhone with auto correct. Can't you tell?


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## DamFish

aquaman1 said:


> Hey. Did you do the metal work yourself? I wish I would have seen that's what you wanted to do before  my dads shop has access to different metals and maybe could have saved ya a couple bucks.
> 
> It's a great idea and looks good so far!
> 
> Sent from my iPhone with auto correct. Can't you tell?


Doing it all myself. I have also been in the metal business for years building displays. PM me you dads company


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## duckhams

It looks great, im excited to see how the build shapes up! Good choice! I really like the tank dimensions.


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## sig

I scare about adjustable legs. will the thread on the legs be able to keep up with the weight?

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## DamFish

Now to assemble


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## DamFish

sig said:


> I scare about adjustable legs. will the thread on the legs be able to keep up with the weight?


Finished the welding today and will post a pic Monday as I had to run out of the office after playing in the back all day
Greg, You just made me sweat as I never checked the weight capacity before and just went with my gut 
Luckily when I did check I found each leveller would support 2800 lbs and that a 120 gallon weighs 1400 so it should not cause any problems and allow me to level it without shims.
I actually got the idea when I visited Derek and checked his large tank stands


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## sig

start making these and sell .. 

I did not say just to make you sweat. I know one guy that it is happened to him. All threads gone bold and stand just went on the floor

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## Mikeylikes

curious to see how the stand turns out with levelers of all things ! You might have a potential customer 

btw .. why would one put the overflow in the corner as opposed to placement in the middle of the back ? are there advantages or just personal preference ?


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## DamFish

Mikeylikes said:


> curious to see how the stand turns out with levelers of all things ! You might have a potential customer
> 
> btw .. why would one put the overflow in the corner as opposed to placement in the middle of the back ? are there advantages or just personal preference ?


Centre overflow was my original design but I left it too late to get it in time for my Xmas vacation build. When I visited Miracles they had this one in stock as someone ordered it and cancelled so I grabbed it. 
The corner design will be easier to work on if anything goes wrong.


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## Car2n

Did you take into consideration the clearance for your bulkheads to the inside corner of your stand framework?


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## DamFish

Car2n said:


> Did you take into consideration the clearance for your bulkheads to the inside corner of your stand framework?


Just cursed 10 minutes ago as I searched other builds. 
Will have to check on Monday. It's going to be close


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## DamFish

Looks like I got lucky on the bulkhead fit as I used 1 1/2" tube construction.
The bulk heads appear to be centred 4" from the outside edge of the tank and as the OD of the bulk head is 2 3/4"


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## sig

what are two vertical pieces inside the overflow? are these just acrylic rods? very good idea and it is much easier to attach these pieces first and overflow later.

leave long - learn always (Russian expression with bad translation) 

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## DamFish

sig said:


> what are two vertical pieces inside the overflow? are these just acrylic rods? very good idea and it is much easier to attach these pieces first and overflow later.
> 
> leave long - learn always (Russian expression with bad translation)


It also adds strength to the overflow if it ever happens if it ever happens to empty while the tank is full.
They are installing those around the bottom of the entire tank as well as Inner euro brace.


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## DamFish

*Make me less nervous*

Has anyone had experience with a tube stand as in this picture. Only looking at the weight on a hardwood floor. I am not really worried the floor will collapse as I have had more than 7 guys in that room and we probably weigh more than the tank will. But i will feel better if anyone else has put this kind of stand on hardwood?


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## 12273

I personally would distribute the weight evenly. Those points might dig in over time with the weight of the aquarium. What about the plastic things with padding? You can get them at walmart. 

That's just me. I am just extra careful with my wood LOL. 


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## CRJ

spread the weight out. run bottom bars, not feet/legs.


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## altcharacter

Mine was a custom stand like yours and I have no problems on my floor. What I do suggest is you out about 6 layers of paint on it so it doesn't rust


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## 12273

Good idea! Better yet! Get truck bedliner spray! I did the inside of my jeep and you can smash it with a hammer. 

Can of duplicolor bed armour was $16 at crappy tire 


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## tom g

*stand*

I don't think u will have any probs with that brute of a stand , u may want to put the cups that aquaman was talking about or even a carpet , in my opinion I don't think u will have a problem
awesome stand and now I know who I am gonna call when I need some metal work done .
cheers 
tom


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## sig

The guy asks how non distributed weight pressure will affect point of contact with the single piece of hardwood.

In my uneducated opinion 1000+ lbs will make these hardwood pieces go down and tank will became non leveled and DamFish will not be able to level the tank using adjustable legs, because they will sag . 
He does not have concret floor under hardwood and SW tanks weight much more than FW.

I just hope that somebody here who finished secondary school will be able to provide relevant opinion.

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## 12273

^^^ I think we get it. 


Sent from my iPhone with auto correct. Can't you tell?


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## sig

aquaman1 said:


> ^^^ I think we get it.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone with auto correct. Can't you tell?


you probably did 

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## 12273

LOL. 

I can just imagine the hardwood after a few years looking like a carpet when you move the bed. Maybe not but better safe than sorry. 

I would either weld a bar across to each leg and make a frame under it to have more contact on the floor spread out. This will leave you without a way of adjusting the height of it's not level. Or don't weld it in but have it sit ok metal plates that can maybe 4X4 " in size to spread the weight and still allow adjusting 

I'd make sure that it's not metal on metal to avoid sliding if it's bumped into 


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## sig

a structural engineers explanation. I assume it will be worse for hardwood

http://african-cichlid.com/Structure.htm

Myth #7: "My aquarium is on a metal stand with 4 legs so all I have to do is put a sheet of plywood under the legs to distribute the load to more floor joists."

That will help some, but not very much at all. A sheet of plywood laid flat is not very stiff so it will bend and not distribute the load to more floor joists very effectively."

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## tom g

*stand*

ok guys pick it apart ...................


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## sig

tom g said:


> ok guys pick it apart ...................


No. let him install it and kill a tank ...

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----------



## tom g

*tank*

this is where I step out.....


----------



## 12273

Exterior walls are also a good place I was told. I have both my tanks within 6 feet of each other.

46 gallon full and gravel probably 600 pounds.

34 gallon with 50 pounds of rock and 30 pounds of sand about 580 pounds.

I have them sitting right over some strong structure. My 46 gallon runs across the flirt joists but my Red Sea max runs parallel to the floor joists.








that's under my 46 gallon 







under 46 gallon 







under Red Sea max







under Red Sea max

Sent from my iPhone with auto correct. Can't you tell?


----------



## DamFish

altcharacter said:


> Mine was a custom stand like yours and I have no problems on my floor. What I do suggest is you out about 6 layers of paint on it so it doesn't rust


Thanks, I feel better.
As for paint, I am getting a baked powder coat of a zinc infused paint with excellent protective qualities. I use this on farm fan guards I build and the wire joints on those are very challenging to seal.

984 hours Salt Spray on Zircobond treated CRS panel
Paint used was "Black Powder 6620-91663"
Zero blistering observed.


----------



## DamFish

sig said:


> a structural engineers explanation. I assume it will be worse for hardwood
> 
> http://african-cichlid.com/Structure.htm
> 
> Myth #7: "My aquarium is on a metal stand with 4 legs so all I have to do is put a sheet of plywood under the legs to distribute the load to more floor joists."
> 
> That will help some, but not very much at all. A sheet of plywood laid flat is not very stiff so it will bend and not distribute the load to more floor joists very effectively."


That is a lot of reading and I have to take my daughter out for a drive so I will check it later
Thank you for the link


----------



## DamFish

aquaman1 said:


> Exterior walls are also a good place I was told. I have both my tanks within 6 feet of each other.
> 
> 46 gallon full and gravel probably 600 pounds.
> 
> 34 gallon with 50 pounds of rock and 30 pounds of sand about 580 pounds.
> 
> I have them sitting right over some strong structure. My 46 gallon runs across the flirt joists but my Red Sea max runs parallel to the floor joists.


The tank will be against an outside wall, with a load bearing support wall running parallel to one side so it has maximum supported wood under it on two sides. I also installed support walls under it 12" from the front of the tank and another under other side.
Am I getting better yet??


----------



## 12273

Oh yeah! Should be strong like ox  

Look forward to seeing more  


Sent from my iPhone with auto correct. Can't you tell?


----------



## DamFish

sig said:


> a structural engineers explanation. I assume it will be worse for hardwood


Okay so I have read that site and I believe I am good
Myth 10 discusses a woman's stiletto heel and that as it is 100+ lbs on a .5" square heel is actually 3600 lbs/sq ft and goes on to say

"So let's say I have a 125 gallon tank that weighs 1400 lbs and is 6 ft long. The aquarium is oriented perpendicular to the joists and my floor framing is wood joists spanning 12 ft._(Just like mine plus I have my installed walls)_ *So this 6 ft by 12 ft portion of the floor was designed to safely support a total live load of at least 6 ft x 12 ft x 40 psf = 2880 (mine is 4' so 1920 lbs) pounds total and may actually be much stronger than that*, as discussed above. (And keep in mind that this 2880 pounds includes the weight of any people, furniture, bookshelves etc that are located in that 12 ft x 6 ft area) The bending stresses and the shear stresses are distributed much differently due to a large concentrated load like an aquarium than they are when distributed uniformly. *Aquariums located close to the wall generate high shear stresses and very low bending stresses.* Aquariums located in the middle of the span generate extremely high bending stresses and much lower shear stresses at each supporting wall. But you know that it was easier to break that pencil by bending it, so up against the wall is still the preferred aquarium location."

*All of that said. Although the 4 corners will still bear most of the weight and even with only 4 feet it has 350 lbs per foot. I will be adding two more feet at the 16" marks so the feet will be right on top of the floor joists. NO Chance of puncture as that will spread the weight.*


----------



## DamFish

Stand going to paint
























Now to patiently wait for Miracles


----------



## Shoryureppa

Just a small suggestion.

Bolts - they are too small to carry the weight of your aquarium. Plus the welds that hold the nut they thread on will give outbefore the bolts. 

I suggest you remove them and leave the legs flat and shim them. It will be safer. For the bolts to hold the weight the ground has to be completely leveled meaning flush to the head of the bolt. 

If the surface can be compressed (wood), you will have an unlevelled tank which will stress the seams.


----------



## DamFish

Shoryureppa said:


> Just a small suggestion.
> 
> Bolts - they are too small to carry the weight of your aquarium. Plus the welds that hold the nut they thread on will give outbefore the bolts.
> 
> I suggest you remove them and leave the legs flat and shim them. It will be safer. For the bolts to hold the weight the ground has to be completely leveled meaning flush to the head of the bolt.
> 
> If the surface can be compressed (wood), you will have an unlevelled tank which will stress the seams.


Thank you for the concern and advice but the bolts are only there to protect the threads while it is on the paint line. 
The levellers I will be installing are 3/8-16 threads with 2" dia bases rated for 2800 lbs each. The threaded inserts I welded in the tubes are 7/16" thick and the same i.d. of the tube and are set back in the tube 1/4" and then fill welded. One of these feet could support the tank so 8 should be no problem.
I have been concerned with the weight but the previous 65 Gallon was in the same place on 6 - 1" dia plastic based levellers without leaving a mark


----------



## DamFish

*Wood Panels*

So as I patiently await delivery of the tank.
150 Lbs of CaribSea Aragamax Select Sand and Red Sea Coral Pro Salt Mix (175 Gallons Bucket) have been ordered for delivery. Couldn't beat goreef.com prices. 

Now using reclaimed barn board for the tank stand cover panels. 








[/URL][/IMG]


----------



## 12273

Sweet! Barn wood is amazing! I'd love to make my floor outta that stuff . 

Barn wood and saltwater tank.... Very interesting combo . Kind of like rustic and reefy LOL. Pretty sure reefy is a word. You could go for like a sea side tikki bar look! Flows with the reef tank  

I look forward to some full tank shots! 




Sent from my iPhone with auto correct. Can't you tell?


----------



## DamFish

*Santa is coming early*

Ready to start assembly 







[/URL][/IMG]

Baked Automotive abrasion resistant finish








[/URL][/IMG]

Front door panels. Will dry fit tomorrow and then a day of sanding and a week of finishing







[/URL][/IMG]

And must give compliments to goreef.com.. Ordered on Tuesday shipped on Wed and delivered on Friday. Pretty sure the Fed Ex guy was wondering what the hell was so Heavy yet so so FRAGILE. 150 Lbs of sand


----------



## altcharacter

amazing paint job!!!!


----------



## DamFish

altcharacter said:


> amazing paint job!!!!


Thanks
Amazing and I will only see it when I look inside after I cover it in wood. But it will withstand the salt better


----------



## DamFish

*Look what Santa delivered*

I just discovered I have to rename this thread as the tank I "picked off of the shelf" is a 'sig' special. It's a 24 tall with 2 inches cut off. So my tank is just 22" tall and therefore, about 110 Gallons. Its a good thing too because I can just reach the back corner as it is and I am little taller than average.







[/URL][/IMG]
 And yes, the tank stand has made a great fort for my 1yr old

I discussed with Miracles, my concern with installing the plumbing in the overflow, which was a Durso at that point of the planning (now a Herbie), and look at their solution. Great idea I hadn't seen or thought of before.


Here's a shot of the internal bracing


Now for the plumbing designing


----------



## Rappyfly

No form under the tank?


----------



## altcharacter

Yes...foam under the tank....
And, checkout the stockman modification for the durso. Although I guess it's to late  It would have saved you a ton of room and is much quieter


----------



## DamFish

altcharacter said:


> Yes...foam under the tank....
> And, checkout the stockman modification for the durso. Although I guess it's to late  It would have saved you a ton of room and is much quieter


Foam will be installed but as they shipped it without any packaging except for corner guards I have to go buy some. I was surprised at the lack of protection.
I have considered the stockman and even the Maggie but have opted for the Herbie for the greater flow


----------



## Tropicana

Enjoying the build, it's been a fun read. Looking forward to more !


----------



## sig

I told you.....  after several years  Congratulation 

I want to see it filled. just block the holes somehow for now and check the tank please. When filling the tank try do not fill just overflow box, without water in the tank. Box can disconnect if silicon is not dry or bad job

Good luck

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----------



## DamFish

sig said:


> I told you.....  after several years  Congratulation
> 
> I want to see it filled. just block the holes somehow for now and check the tank please. When filling the tank try do not fill just overflow box, without water in the tank. Box can disconnect if silicon is not dry or bad job
> 
> Good luck





Tropicana said:


> Enjoying the build, it's been a fun read. Looking forward to more !


Thank guys. I am having a lot of fun doing this.

Will definitely test fill. If I spill anymore salt water on the hardwood I will be sleeping in the tank with cement shoes.


----------



## DamFish

Sanded a sealed. 
















Nothing to do but sit and wait for it to dry








And a little plumbing so off to process auto and HD


----------



## DamFish

*3/4" Bulkhead needed*

Anyone know where I can get a 3/4" Bulkhead slip with Thread on the flange side?? I have been to BA's but they only had slip/slip. I don't want to have to glue white pipe to white threaded adapter.


----------



## 12273

Go look at lowes on Taunton and Gerard. They seem to have decent plumbing selection. And the guy there helped me out with a project huge. 

Good service. 


Sent from iphone using auto correct! Can't you tell!?


----------



## DamFish

aquaman1 said:


> Go look at lowes on Taunton and Gerard. They seem to have decent plumbing selection. And the guy there helped me out with a project huge.
> 
> Good service.
> 
> Sent from iphone using auto correct! Can't you tell!?


Good selection and great service. I was there twice today. They helped create the piece of pipe to a slip/Thread adapter. witch means a big white plastic joint. 
I have found one at BRS but it won't be here until the 30th
I'll pull the trigger on that order on Monday if I can't find it locally


----------



## 10G

And a little plumbing so off to process auto and HD[/QUOTE]

Haha, look at the cute little baby in the aquarium. So kyoooot.

That is all.


----------



## DamFish

10G said:


> Haha, look at the cute little baby in the aquarium. So kyoooot.
> 
> That is all.


Thanks. You should see the videos. 

Tanks stand assembled
Could not be happier with the result







[/URL][/IMG]


----------



## PaulF757

looks great. Nice job.


----------



## 12273

Wow! 

Look sweet! 


Sent from iphone using auto correct! Can't you tell!?


----------



## Steel_Wind

I'll take one!


----------



## DamFish

Steel_Wind said:


> I'll take one!


I may need to go into business to pay for for the new parts

Plumbing installed. Herbie is set and the tank is slowly filling for water test. 







[/URL][/IMG]

Assuming all goes well  I will start plumbing the semi-automatic water change set-up tomorrow


----------



## DamFish

Question on Above plumbing. 
Anyone running a Herbie have any problem with the Ball valve on the emergency drain line? I like extra shutoffs but after reading GMAREEF dot com Herbie Overflow Method Reef Tank Plumbing Guide I am second guessing myself. Thinking I should just remove it.


----------



## sig

DamFish said:


> Question on Above plumbing.
> Anyone running a Herbie have any problem with the Ball valve on the emergency drain line? I like extra shutoffs but after reading GMAREEF dot com Herbie Overflow Method Reef Tank Plumbing Guide I am second guessing myself. Thinking I should just remove it.


I never had any problems and this valve is rarely used. You better try to make better slop for the drain. I do not like this bend. Something could be build there on the bottom.

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----------



## DamFish

sig said:


> I never had any problems and this valve is rarely used. You better try to make better slop for the drain. I do not like this bend. Something could be build there on the bottom.


Point taken. Thanks Greg. Now removing a rise in the basement and increasing the slope there too.


----------



## sig

DamFish said:


> Point taken. Thanks Greg. Now removing a rise in the basement and increasing the slope there too.


you do not need to be so official 

good luck. I am jealous (in good way) It took almost 3 years and leaking tank to "push" you in a proper direction.

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----------



## DamFish

sig said:


> you do not need to be so official
> 
> good luck. I am jealous (in good way) It took almost 3 years and leaking tank to "push" you in a proper direction.


3 years?? I have a pair of Clowns that are over 14 years old and have survived all my mistakes. More like 15 years. Never been one to make quick decisions. Unlike someone. )

Not a Boxing Day deal, but Santa just delivered another present.


----------



## DamFish

No leaks after two days. 
Salt mixing. ).


----------



## sig

DamFish said:


> No leaks after two days.
> Salt mixing. ).


good. good luck

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----------



## DamFish

*Basement Sump and additions*

So I finally got around to Semi Automating the water change. At least made it easier. Also adding an auto shutoff to the new RO/DI water holding tank so hopefully no more floods from forgetting the RO unit was running. 
55 gallon water tank that holds the Tunze ozmolator and a pump to transfer water to the 20 gallon saltwater mix tank. The saltwater mix tank has a mix pump and a separate transfer pump to send the fresh mixed salt water to the third chamber of the sump. There will be, as soon as I transfer the live rock back to the DT, a pump in the second chamber of the sump to transfer the waste saltwater to the drain. 
The idea will be to have the pumps balanced close enough that as the waste water is being pumped out, the fresh saltwater will be pumped in after a slight delay so the flow from chamber 2 stops. 
Let me know if you have any suggestions







[/URL][/IMG]







[/URL][/IMG]

First thing I noticed is I have to clean the vents on my pump tomorrow.


----------



## DamFish

Aquascape done. Just debating the centre rock


----------



## sig

Looks nice. good luck. Will you be able to move glass cleaners on the sides? the rocks on both sides look to close to the glass

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----------



## DamFish

sig said:


> Looks nice. good luck. Will you be able to move glass cleaners on the sides? the rocks on both sides look to close to the glass


Thanks. It doesnt look like it but , I am well clear of the walls.
I will post some pics with the lights as soon as I get the I-phone camera figured out. Every pic looks more like a negative.
I am loving the aquascape and the AI Sol / Reef Brites are a cool combonation. Just had my first AI thunderstorm


----------



## Kweli

I say you remove the center rock. Kills the flow (and I'm not reffering to water flow)


----------



## DamFish

Kweli said:


> I say you remove the center rock. Kills the flow (and I'm not reffering to water flow)


I agree. It's now in the sump. After I took these pics

Lights are on but Nobody is home yet.







[/URL][/IMG]

Fish get to try out their new digs tomorrow night. Going to have one very happy Tang and one very disappointed Manderin Dragonet who I haven't seen much of, as he has been cruising 120 lbs of sump live rock with a previously untapped copod population.

Custom light brackets







[/URL][/IMG]

Yes there is a GSP rock but it is not touching the main structure.


----------



## sig

It is just me but I do not like to much sand on the front. I always try to have front sand in level or less with the tank trim/panel. In my case I always see the nice sand and not dirty stuff inside it.

I would be scare to have deep sand bed and I vacuum my tank monthly by having 1-2 " of sand

can we have picture of the hangers please? Thanks

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----------



## DamFish

sig said:


> It is just me but I do not like to much sand on the front. I always try to have front sand in level or less with the tank trim/panel. In my case I always see the nice sand and not dirty stuff inside it.
> 
> I would be scare to have deep sand bed and I vacuum my tank monthly by having 1-2 " of sand
> 
> can we have picture of the hangers please? Thanks


I have some work to do with the Jebao WP-25 8000L Wave Makers. They move a lot of water and the sand is still settling. There are places that only have an inch of sand.  It is a wee bit more sand than I originally pictured but I have always leaned toward deeper sand. The sand I went with is also finer than the standard crushed coral (CaribSea Aragamax Select Sand)
I will take new pics soon so everyone can see their corals and equipment in their new home


----------



## liz

Looks good! I find the WP 25 pretty powerful just redirect the flow so it isn't pushing the sand. Or turn it down until the sand becomes populated and settled? Put one at each end of your tank so they have opposite flow?


----------



## Flameangel

DamFish said:


> I have some work to do with the Jebao WP-25 8000L Wave Makers. They move a lot of water and the sand is still settling. There are places that only have an inch of sand.  It is a wee bit more sand than I originally pictured but I have always leaned toward deeper sand. The sand I went with is also finer than the standard crushed coral (CaribSea Aragamax Select Sand)
> I will take new pics soon so everyone can see their corals and equipment in their new home


I have a 4" dsb on my 90 and have 2 WP25 Jebaos one on each end at about 6" on top of the water.I do however,use the wave 1 and turn the dial at the very minimum on one and maximum turn on the other opposing the return flow.


----------



## DamFish

Flameangel said:


> I have a 4" dsb on my 90 and have 2 WP25 Jebaos one on each end at about 6" on top of the water.I do however,use the wave 1 and turn the dial at the very minimum on one and maximum turn on the other opposing the return flow.


WAVE 1
I finally broke down and read those instruction things and figured it out. I assumed that wave 3 would be the slow one. DOH!!
Things are much calmer now.

Does anyone know how to measure the flow from the return pump? I know I can go online and calculate based on 90 degree elbows and run length and height but as the pump is older my guess is it has lost some of its total head volume. Wondered if there was a guage that can just be attached to the 3/4 return


----------



## Flameangel

I forgot to say that in addition to the 2 WP 25 Jebaos,they are plugged to an Ocean Pulse Duo wavemaker and come on at 6 minute intervals.


----------



## altcharacter

Take a 5 gallon bucket and put it at the same height as your return. Run a line to the bucket and turn on the pump. Then measure the time it takes to fill the bucket. If it takes 1 minute then it would be 300gph. 30 seconds then it would be 600gph. That would be the easiest way to do it.

Although there will be some discrepancies with the size of the bucket, thus should give you a ballpark number to work with

Where are the pics!!!!


----------



## Steel_Wind

altcharacter said:


> Take a 5 gallon bucket and put it at the same height as your return. Run a line to the bucket and turn on the pump. Then measure the time it takes to fill the bucket. If it takes 1 minute then it would be 300gph. 30 seconds then it would be 600gph. That would be the easiest way to do it.
> 
> Although there will be some discrepancies with the size of the bucket, thus should give you a ballpark number to work with
> 
> Where are the pics!!!!


 The math is right, but your methodology is bound to get a gallon or two of water on your floor.

You might want to just fill the bucket half way and base it off of 2.5 gallons output in time allotted


----------



## DamFish

altcharacter said:


> Take a 5 gallon bucket and put it at the same height as your return. Run a line to the bucket and turn on the pump. Then measure the time it takes to fill the bucket. If it takes 1 minute then it would be 300gph. 30 seconds then it would be 600gph. That would be the easiest way to do it.
> 
> Although there will be some discrepancies with the size of the bucket, thus should give you a ballpark number to work with
> 
> Where are the pics!!!!


That would work except the pump is in the basement and the tank is a good 10-15 second sprint from there so it would mean a puddle on the hardwood. After searching for a flowchart for the pumps I have, I stumbled upon a digital flow meter on EBay for $40. One more gadget added to my collection

Pics will come. Spent half the day in the birthing suites to be sent home. Maybe tomorrow


----------



## sig

don't bother to check anything. I can not explain it, but with all the same parameters (length and size of the drain), but bigger tank , the pump which was perfect for smaller tank will not be enough the bigger
That's was the case when I went from 120 to 150g
I remember you got good pump from me 

There is also possibility that pump is very dirty and it does not pump water as before

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----------



## DamFish

sig said:


> don't bother to check anything. I can not explain it, but with all the same parameters (length and size of the drain), but bigger tank , the pump which was perfect for smaller tank will not be enough the bigger
> That's was the case when I went from 120 to 150g
> I remember you got good pump from me
> 
> There is also possibility that pump is very dirty and it does not pump water as before


My plan is to change out the old Gen-X for the Pan World I bought from you this weekend. The Gen-X doesn't pump as much as the Herbie can drain so there is definitely some extra capacity. The old set up couldn't handle the full flow of the the GenX so I didn't bother changing it. Just kept it as a super back up. Now I can switch it and send the old one out for refurbishing to have as a back up
I still want to buy a new gadget


----------



## DamFish

My latest coral. Baby Blue Eyes










Tank photos will be delayed


----------



## Kweli

Looks bleached = \


haha, congrats man!!!!
Fun times ahead


----------



## Flameangel

DamFish said:


> My latest coral. Baby Blue Eyes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tank photos will be delayed


Priceless!


----------



## DamFish

Back to work. Actually still setting up some of the systems and the controller. Increasing the intensity of AI Sol. Went too high to fast  and had a bit of a algae bloom for about 3 days. Backed them off and it quickly went away.
Here is the new custom light mount


Some of your corals 

I am a little concerned with the SPS loosing some colour or actually whitening. My parameters are good although I have to increase my Calcium and alkalinity. Will test the magnesium tomorrow as I have done weekly water changes of 30 gallons each

Currently @
Ph 7.95
Alk 3.5 meq/L 
Cal 340
Kh 143
PO .25 
NO undetectable
Salinity 1.023
Temp 79

Lights Ramp up at 8 AM starting at W3 B10 RB 13 to a high of W20 B60 RB70 for 4 hrs and basically off at 8PM W0 B4 RB 5

Any suggestions on making my Acros happy


----------



## altcharacter

Congrats on the baby!! The tank is looking amazing and I can see a few of mine in there 
No idea about the acros though. Maybe the system is too clean?


----------



## DamFish

*Acro aid required*



altcharacter said:


> Congrats on the baby!! The tank is looking amazing and I can see a few of mine in there
> No idea about the acros though. Maybe the system is too clean?


Thanks for the Congrats Dave
I'll have to post a Wanted Ad for dirty water. 
It is even weirder as the new Red Sea test kits put my Mg perfect at 1320, My Cal at 400 but the Alk is still low at 3 meq/l or 8.4 KH

I have not seen a polyp extend yet. The hammers and the torch are happy, Shrooms, Zoas and GSP are booming.


----------



## sig

it is time to get strawberry conch snails. are you happy with eurobrace?

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----------



## rburns24

I wouldn't consider 8.4 a low alkalinity level. NSW is between 7 to 8.


----------



## sig

rburns24 said:


> I wouldn't consider 8.4 a low alkalinity level. NSW is between 7 to 8.


I agree with Richard. My tank were doing perfect with 8 and I never was able to keep it higher

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----------



## Bayinaung

DamFish said:


> My latest coral. Baby Blue Eyes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tank photos will be delayed


OMG how old is the baby? he/she's already looking at you. congrats man.


----------



## Bayinaung

by the way that light fixture thingy you're hanging the sols on - that looks sweet. did that come from AI or did you make those?


----------



## Flexin5

congrats on the baby! 

as for sps, i find that with the AI lights, there's some fine tuning when it comes to sps, but it can be achieved; i thought it was my lights when it was actually the nutrients in the tank were too low.


----------



## DamFish

Bayinaung said:


> OMG how old is the baby? he/she's already looking at you. congrats man.


She was about 30 mins old in that picture Thank you



Bayinaung said:


> by the way that light fixture thingy you're hanging the sols on - that looks sweet. did that come from AI or did you make those?


That was my design. It's one of the perks of my job. Designing and Mftr Store displays



Flexin5 said:


> congrats on the baby!


Thank you for the congrats


----------



## DamFish

sig said:


> it is time to get strawberry conch snails. are you happy with eurobrace?


I LOVE the Euro tank and I actually added two Strawberry conchs last week and looking at two more next week or so



rburns24 said:


> I wouldn't consider 8.4 a low alkalinity level. NSW is between 7 to 8.


It makes the whitening of the SPS even more aggravating as everything seems to be correct and in spec



Flexin5 said:


> as for sps, i find that with the AI lights, there's some fine tuning when it comes to sps, but it can be achieved; i thought it was my lights when it was actually the nutrients in the tank were too low.


I have been feeding Reef Roids confused:

Looks like more reading for me


----------



## Bayinaung

DamFish said:


> She was about 30 mins old in that picture Thank you
> 
> That was my design. It's one of the perks of my job. Designing and Mftr Store displays
> 
> Thank you for the congrats


30 minutes old? Holy crap. she's calm and she's looking at you? UNREAL! I don't think babies typically recognize anyone in the first few months. is this your first?


----------



## DamFish

Bayinaung said:


> 30 minutes old? Holy crap. she's calm and she's looking at you? UNREAL! I don't think babies typically recognize anyone in the first few months. is this your first?


This one constantly amazes me as she seems to be able to see very well and already has a lot of strength in her neck. Youngest of three, so she needs every advantage she can get to survive the older one


----------



## sig

DamFish said:


> This one constantly amazes me as she seems to be able to see very well and already has a lot of strength in her neck. Youngest of three, so she needs every advantage she can get to survive the older one


you were in the hospital at this time  I was thinking you are working on the new tank 

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----------



## aquatic_expressions

Have you considered raising your salinity? Also do you dose any type of amino trace additives? I would recommend trying AcroPower from Two Little Fishies or even Fuel from Seachem (AquaVitro)


----------



## sig

Dave,

your tank is less than a month old. Please to not dose anything. 
Let it get stable. WC are always good idea

by the way, your IA is for sure problem for your SPS. 
I see how AI kills SPS during last 2 years. It should be very delicate how you apply these lights.

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## DamFish

sig said:


> you were in the hospital at this time  I was thinking you are working on the new tank


I know. Can you believe my wife wouldn't allow me to stay home to finish setting it up?
Gonna get a beating just for joking about it lol


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## aquatic_expressions

sig said:


> Dave,
> 
> your tank is less than a month old. Please to not dose anything.
> Let it get stable. WC are always good idea
> 
> by the way, your IA is for sure problem for your SPS.
> I see how AI kills SPS during last 2 years. It should be very delicate how you apply these lights.


I don't believe dosing AcroPower would have a negative impact, but water changes are great.

I will have to agree that AI lights are not suitable IMO for SPS althought Soft Corals and LPS do well. My opinion is bias as my preference is EcoTech.


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## DamFish

aquatic_expressions said:


> Have you considered raising your salinity? Also do you dose any type of amino trace additives? [/QUOTE
> 
> 
> 
> sig said:
> 
> 
> 
> your tank is less than a month old. Please to not dose anything.
> Let it get stable. WC are always good idea
> 
> by the way, your IA is for sure problem for your SPS.
> I see how AI kills SPS during last 2 years. It should be very delicate how you apply these lights.
> 
> 
> 
> I have not dosed anything yet. I have Elos Omega Amino Acids ready to use.
> 
> I Have done 30 Gallon water changes once a week as I was a little worried with the new sand in the system and any possible cycle that I have not detected.
> I started the corals on the sand for a week and AI's are still only up to 65% for 2 hrs. I did make the mistake of turning up the whites too high for the first few days.
Click to expand...


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## DamFish

*More Flow*

Finally upgraded the pump.  
The flow has increased at least 30% to the point the flow is near the maximum of the corner overflow slots. 
The Herbie is running at a half turn under full flow.

SUM's 40% off sale has tempted me to try a couple hard corals again. A Millepora and a Montipora Cap Fingers crossed


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## sig

fury165 said:


> Amateurs... . Always go overboard with what you tell her and compromise by downsizing to what you _really_ want lol....
> 
> My wife woke up one weekend to me taping up the floor for a 6 foot tank - freaked out that it was a monstrosity but agreed I could have a _smaller_ tank lol. Ah well should have taped up a 12 footer


This is hilarious 

Dave, do we have new pictures???

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## explor3r

Congrats on the baby... I been using AI for many years and you can grow and colour SPS no problem but there are few things you need to do for that.
I know you won't grow and colour up as fast as with T5s but you can do it, also I think your tank is too new for SPS and losing colour is normal so don't panic!!!!
The center lenses are 40 degree lenses be careful with this as you can bleach the corals so raising your lights a bit and decreasing the white intensity will help.
If you have time one day come by and Ill show you my timers and the colour of my SPS under AI.....
Good luck!!!


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## DamFish

*Some new pics*



sig said:


> This is hilarious
> 
> Dave, do we have new pictures???


I think I need to go to photo school but here are a couple I just took.







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