# Nuvo 16 Beginner Build



## dllowe (Feb 20, 2013)

Hello everyone, been lurking here for a few months enjoying everyone's builds and trying to learn as much as I can.

This is my first tank since I was probably 10, so it has been about 32 years since I have been out of this hobby. For what ever reason, the package of sea-monkeys that my son got for Christmas gave me the bug to get a salt water tank.

Here's my build so far:

*Tank*
Innovative Marine Nuvo 16

*Heating*
Hydor Theo 100W

*Lighting*
Maxspect 20.5 Inch Razor R420R 16,000K

*Live Rock and Substrate*
14 lbs of Marco Dry Rock
2.5 lbs of live rock (to seed, in the process of removing)
Seaflor Special Grade Reef Sand - 12 lbs

*Other Goodies*
InTank Media Baskets (Filter floss, SeaCheam Purigen, Chemi-Pure Elite)
Apex Jr
Tunze Silence Water Pump - 1073.008 to replace the stock pump (waiting for a second but currently back ordered)
Tunze Osmolator Universal 3155
EchoTech Marine VorTech MP 10 ES
BRS RO/DI

Here's what she looks like currently:










The two piece of rock on the top right are my seed live rock, they should be gone by the end of the week.

Currently my tank has been cycling now for a month. I did the first 2.5/3 weeks with just the seed rocks and the phantom feeding. My API test kits never showed a reading more then 0 ppm. So based upon a suggestion at nano-reefs.com I dosed 1mL of pure ammonia.

Bingo, something finally showing up on my test kit. It took 6 days, but the reading finally went down to the 0. I re-dosed again, and this time it took only 2 days to get down to 0. During this cycle, my Nitrites have consistently remained at 0, my Nitrates are currently at 5ppm. I also have a nice break of Diatoms. A few patches on the sand, but about 75% of the dead rock is covered.

So, do you think it is time for a CUC? I will probably wait until next weekend, so everything can continue to settle. Or should I wait until the Nitrates drop to 0? Or would a water change take care of that (I have not done one yet)?

Also, so I continue to dose with ammonia to keep the cycle going until I can introduce some livestock/CUC?

If so, I should I be increasing the amount, or just keeping it where it it is at (1mL)?

Thanks and looking forward to hearing your suggestions.


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## aln (Jan 26, 2010)

Love the tank and the rock arrangements , im current going through my own cycle but your further ahead then me  

subscribed for sure keep us posted!

ps- where did you buy that tank?


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## dllowe (Feb 20, 2013)

Thanks Aln. Just read your thread for your build, and it looks really good.

I got my tank from the Coral Reef Shop. I was actually helped out by Tristan who I believe frequents this board.

In regards to my cycle, I think that I am coming closer to the end. I tested again, and my Nitrates are now up to 10ppm, which is an increase from 5 yesterday.

I am hopefully that someone will chime in to my questions from yesterday. I am really not sure if my cycle is complete, and I just need to do a water change to bring the Nitrates down, or I still need to wait a little longer. 

The tank has been cycling since March 5th.


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## aln (Jan 26, 2010)

i would say that your already there at the end point. 

if you ammonia and nitrites are at 0 and as you said your nitrate is at around 10ppm then your cycle is as good as done to my knowledge. a water change will take care of the nitrate when your ready to add coral

as for the additional dose of ammonia, i dont think it will be necessary if your going to add stuff into the tank soon. but see what others think about this on the matter

add a few snails and hermits to start eating all that algae! 

just drip accumulate your corals and add them slowly. 

as for the tank, i searched it up and loved the design of the filter area. Ever think about converting it into a fuge?

and keep us updated with pictures!  people here love pictures


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## J_T (Mar 25, 2011)

The nitrates should come down a bit more on their own.

While the tank has "cycled" don't forget that every new addition will increase the demand on the bio filtration. So, each addtion needs to be made slowly, and spread out. Since you used dry rock, adding snails is just a death sentence for them.

I would add a coral, that is on a rock. That will trigger a mini cycle from the live rock its attached to.

Speaking of LR, why are you going to remove the piece you added? It is the best piece of filtration you have in there (IMO)


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## dllowe (Feb 20, 2013)

In regards to the Nuvo 16 tank, it seems to be really well designed (not that I really have the experience to compare it to anything), but one of the known weaknesses are the media baskets. The ones that come with them are thin plastic and are hard to open. In fact one the horizontal holding tabs broke the first day I had it.

I was not concerned as I knew that I was going to be replacing them with some after market ones from InTank Media Baskets. These are the ones that I have:










The construction of them are great, and as I understand it, greatly improve the flow.

In regards to a fuge, this is what the back of the tank looks like (not my picture but I added some labels):










Columns A & E, are where the small media baskets are. I currently I have filter floss, the stock green phosphate pads, and then Purigen. I am planning on replacing the stock phosphate pad with ROWAphos.

In column B I have larger "fuge" media basket. In there I have a big 333g bag of Chemi-Pure Elite topped off by more filter floss. The later is stop any dust from the Chemi-Pure from leaking back into the tank (the water flows up through the Chemi-Pure, through the floss and then down into column C).

Column D has my heater.

Column C has my Tunze pump. When I ordered it, I kind of screwed up, I wanted to order two, so I could get rid of the Y connector for returns. But I ended up only ordering one. The problem is the Y connector makes it very difficult to put anything in that column (the picture is deceiving, there is a lot less room then it appears). This is also where I have the Tunze Osmolator sensors. For which I needed to use the two magnate blocks. This is because the one block solution places the overflow sensor two low. In the default configuration, when I would turn off the main pump for feeding, the water level would raise to high, and cause the alarm to go off. Using the second block allows me to customize the height.

This leads me to what I would like to do. Which is to add a second Tunze pump (waiting for it to come off back order), and remove the y connector. This should make for more usable space. I can then move my heater into C, freeing up D.

In D, I would then place Cheato and a underwater light that I bought for that purpose.

@J_T : In regards to removing the live rock. I purchased this (2.5 lbs) strictly for seeing purposes. Cosmetically it does not fit into the aquascaping look I was going for. The "live" rock, was very dense, and had limited surface area.

This compared to my now live? rock, which is Marco rock. This rock is very lattice, and thus has significantly more surface area then the seed rock. My understanding of the cycle bacteria is that it lives on the surface of the rock and sand. Thus more rock surface area the more beneficial bacteria in the tank. As I have 14 lbs of it, I think that makes up for 1-1.5 lbs to volume suggestion, as I am pretty sure it has twice the surface area of normal rock.

Also, in regards to stocking, I plan on keeping it pretty light. I am thinking:


1 - Ocellaris Clownfish
1 - Orange Stripe Prawn Goby (Randall's)
1 - Pistol Shrimp

In regards to your comment regarding the "death sentence" for the snails. Could you please clarify why?

I do admit that I currently have very little algae beyond Diatoms, which I believe are eaten by snails. The following are my thoughts for an initial clean up crew:


2 : Nassarius
2-3 : Trochus
2-3 : Cerith
2 - Blue leg hermit crabs

I can also feed them if need be (I have flake and sinking pellet food on standby).

In terms of live stock, I was thinking (assuming the parameters stay consistent).


Do 25% water change (Friday)
This weekend (prob Sunday) add the CUC
One week later add the clown
One week later add some coral -- hammer/torch/frogspawn and some zoos.
Two weeks later add the shrimp/goby pair
Add additional coral every couple of weeks after that, as something catches my fantasy. (starting with LPS and then SPS as the tank stabilizes)

I don't think that I am rushing. I have no problems taking things slow. I also have the Innovative Marine AccuDrip Acclimation Kit, so acclimatizing the new occupants will hopefully not be an issue.

Based upon this additional information, do you think I am on track? Should I wait longer before the water change and adding the CUC? Should I wait more then a week between adding the CUC and the fish?

Thanks again for every ones feedback.


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## kamal (Apr 21, 2009)

These are really nice looking tanks for sure.


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## dllowe (Feb 20, 2013)

This weekend added some life to the tank. Ended up with:


4 - Trochus snails (which look more like Turban Snails)
2 - Nerite Snails
1 - Marginate Conch

I have decided to go crab free at this point.

The later has been named Eli. She's very cool to watch, as you always see her moving and eating. That compared to the rest of the snails, that only seem to move overnight.

Here's Eli.










One of my Nerite's has lived up to his nickname J.B. (Jail Break), as I found him on my aquarium stand this morning. Looks like he made a run for the border (he hung out at the top of the glass all day yesterday). I plopped him on top of a rock, hopefully that will keep him occupied for a while. There's lots of Diatoms to eat.

BTW, has anyone heard of an Marginate Conch? I found very little info on the internet about them. Most info is about fighting conches. (I know I should not have bought something on the whim based upon a LSF suggestion).

The best I can tell, is that once she finishes up the diatoms I will need to feed some seaweed and left over frozen food from the fish.


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## dllowe (Feb 20, 2013)

This past Saturday the tank has a new family member, an Ocellaris clown from Huburt @ Reef Aquatica.










He seems to be doing well, but rarely leaves his back corner. He spends most of his day looking at his reflection. Above is a rare shot of him leaving his space to eat some mysis.

I also lost my two Nerite Snails, but everyone else is doing well. The Trochus snails did more then just remove all the diatoms from my rock. They stripped minded it! You can see flat parts where they went over it.

I'm still battling low pH and Alkalinity, something I have noticed since I got my first test kit. Everything is in spec after a water change, but 24 hours later the pH drops to 8.0 on the API test kit.

I have started dosing B-Ionic two part, but only the Alkalinity portion as my Calcium is 470, and as I bring up the Alk it seems to be dropping the target 450.

Using the Salifert kit, I got the following readings:

FRI-APR-05 - 6.1dKH (baseline)
SAT-APR-13 - 8.3dKH (post water change)
SUN-APR-14 - 7.0dKH (I performed a 4ml dose after measurement)
MON-APR-15 - 7.3dKH (I performed a 8ml does after measurement)
TUE-APR-16 - 7.7dKH (I performed a 8ml does after measurement)
WED-APR-17 - 8.0dKH (I performed a 8ml does after measurement)


So getting better, as there is a little daily gain, I am not sure if my tank is getting into a natural alignment, or I will need to continue dosing indefinitely.

As there is currently no coral to absorb the Alk & pH, not sure where it is going. I have lots of surface movement, and I do have a window open for fresh air.

Hopefully I can get this stabilized in the next week or so, so I can start adding some corals!


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## aln (Jan 26, 2010)

any update? cant wait until i see coral!


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## dllowe (Feb 20, 2013)

Hi Aln,

Thanks for asking. Unfortunately no real update, I still can't seem to get a handle on my levels, so I am worried about adding any coral.

I have been doing a bunch of reading, and trying various suggestions. One thing that might be the cause is to much GFO in my system.

I was running a large bag of Chemi-pure elite, which contains GFO. Then when I was still cycling with my seed live rock, it was starting to get covered in green hair algae. So I wanted to get a handle on that before it spread to the rest of my rock, so I added ROWAphos, which is also GFO.

Since then I have pulled the ROWAphos, and this past Saturday during my water change (~30%), I removed the Chemi-pure Elite and replaced it with just plain Chemi-pure (Carbon with no GFO). Now, I am starting to see a little bit of green hair algae forming on my base rock.

I have also stopped dosing, because other comments stated that with new tanks, dosing can cause other long terms issues.

I tested on Sunday (did not get a chance post water change on Sat), and my parameters where:

pH - 8.0
SG - 1.0.25
KH - 8.75 dKH
Ca - 445 ppm
Mg - 1260 ppm

My tests today show:

pH - 8.0
SG - 1.0.25
KH - 8.15 dKH
Ca - 450 ppm
Mg - 1365 ppm

So not only is my Alk low, and keeps on failing every day (bottoming out at about 6 before a water change), I also can't seem to get my pH above 8.0 without dosing, but it drops back to 8.0 within apx. 24 hours.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to address this? If I had SPS corals I can understand the need for dosing, but with just dead rock, where is my Alk going?


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## rburns24 (Jan 31, 2011)

I wouldn't worry a lot about ph, if everything else is in order. If you calcium, magnesium and alkalinity are in line, your ph will follow.


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## dllowe (Feb 20, 2013)

Thanks for your comments. I am actually not trying to chase pH, but I am Alk, which might be just as bad.

If my Ca, KH, and MG where consistent, then I would not be too worried, but I am getting an apx 0.5 dKH drop daily.

The running tally just for the past 3 days are:

```
Ca   KH   Mg
Sun  445  8.75 1260
Mon  450  8.15 1365
Tue  445  7.7  1380
```
So I don't think that this is the kind of stability that I need. Now, I know it is definitely no good for SPS, but how about zoa's and frogspawn/torch?


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## Tristan (Aug 15, 2011)

Corals can handle a swing of 1 dkh per day, and about 20 ppm for calcium. Your okay to add corals into your tank, but I would really be curious as to why your having swings like that. 

You don't have anything in your tank that should be absorbing Alkalinity at the rate it is...

My tank is full of sps and it doesn't drop that much in a day..


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## dllowe (Feb 20, 2013)

Thanks Tristan for your response.

The one suggestion I got from the chemistry forums on reef central, is that it could be due to coralline growth. I am starting to have some -- mostly green with a touch of purple starting to form.

It was also suggested that it is unlikely that the GFO I am using is the cause, so I have re-introduced it. I have also restarted dosing -- hopefully I can get my Alk back up, and the pH will follow.


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## dllowe (Feb 20, 2013)

So I finally added some coral to my tank. I went by Alex's @ FragCave to checkout his stuff. Really nice setup and seems like a really nice guy.

Anyways, I walked away with:

Yellow Tipped Torch (2 heads)
Zoa frag
A nice orange Ricordea

After a drip acclimation, and a dip in CoralRX and Revive Coral Cleaner (separately of course), they seem to be opening up quite nicely even though they have only been in my tank for about 3.5 hours now. Some shots below:









The Torch









The Ricordea









My not quite as bare tank


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## aln (Jan 26, 2010)

nice stuff  keep us posted  with more coral!


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## conix67 (Jul 27, 2008)

Another nice setup! 

I would not dose anything until it's given enough time to become stabilized. You have almost nothing that is expected to consume much of anything at this point. I've gone over a month without dosing anything at some point (due to doser issues) and lost nothing, although the parameters were way below recommended level.

Patience is what's most important, and regular water change will help. Ph will fluctuate throughout the day, and what you want to focus on is the parameter swing more than the level.


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## thmh (Mar 17, 2011)

i think coralrx and revive does the same thing, so i wouldnt use both of them in one dipping session.


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## dllowe (Feb 20, 2013)

@conix67 - Thanks for the kind words. I was kind of torn about dosing or not considering how new my tank is. As I did not get much response here, I posted my issues to the chemistry forum on Reef Central. The consensus was the dosing should be fine. As such I have been dosing about 7.5 ml a day of B-Ionic two part. I am slowly working my way up to a dKH of 9.0, I am at apx. 8.5.

In terms of pH, it seems to be pretty constant at 8.0. I use the API test kit and I find it pretty tough to determine exactly what the level is as my colours really don't match any of them on the chart. So what I do is keep the previous 3 test vials and compare the colours. They are either exactly the same, or very slightly more purple. As I always test with-in the same 20-30 minute window the results should be pretty comparable.

In regards to water changes, I have been very rigorous. An apx. 30% water change every Saturday morning, although am hoping to drop that to 15%.

@thmh - Yep figured that the CoralRX and Revive are pretty much the same, but I hoped that they each have their secret ingredients to justify the "double dip".

With that said, not sure how much it helped, because once I added the corals to my tank, I now have swarms of pods (well maybe not a swarm, but prob ~40 that I can see). I think they are the good ones, well I sure hope they are. Attached is the best picture I could get. They are mowing down of the seaweed that I put in supplement the feeding of my Conk.


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## conix67 (Jul 27, 2008)

It's good to see you're working toward something but just curious why you're aiming at alkalinity of 9 dKH? Have you checked the water parameters of the water you prepare for the water change?

If you're not happy with Ph test kit, I suggest getting a Ph monitor. It would be a good investment. Once you have a large number of corals, there will be a Ph swing that you cannot monitor with Ph test kit anymore.


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## dllowe (Feb 20, 2013)

@conix67 - I picked a dKH of 9 pretty much because my various readings (primarily reef centrals chemistry forums), has between 9-10 as the general consensus. I am also targeting 450 for my calcium.

I have tested my fresh salt water for pH, which is clearly purple (8.2?), vs my post water change (~30%) which is brown with a very slight purple (8.1?). I don't recall testing Alk/Ca/Mg of a fresh salt water batch, but I am pretty sure that I have not. With that said, it is pretty clear from my testing, that it does drop, as daily testing (at the same time), shows a fairly predicable loss.

In regards to pH, I am regretting not getting the APEX lite with the pH probe (I have the JR), but the lite was out of stock at the time, and I felt that I could not wait any longer to get a controller. I know I can add it, but I am really not that concerned about the pH. Once I become fully stocked, I will definitely reconsider.

As for the tank update, I picked up a Red Line/Skunk Cleaner Shrimp yesterday @SUM. After 1.5 hour, drip acclimation, he has been actively perusing the tank. The clown was quite annoyed at the beginning but has now seemed to have accepted the pokes and prods.

Here's the requisite photo of Mr. Clean.


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## aln (Jan 26, 2010)

great little guy you got there!


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## conix67 (Jul 27, 2008)

dllowe said:


> @conix67 - I picked a dKH of 9 pretty much because my various readings (primarily reef centrals chemistry forums), has between 9-10 as the general consensus. I am also targeting 450 for my calcium.
> 
> I have tested my fresh salt water for pH, which is clearly purple (8.2?), vs my post water change (~30%) which is brown with a very slight purple (8.1?). I don't recall testing Alk/Ca/Mg of a fresh salt water batch, but I am pretty sure that I have not. With that said, it is pretty clear from my testing, that it does drop, as daily testing (at the same time), shows a fairly predicable loss.
> 
> ...


It's good that you're monitoring everything frequently, but do you have an idea why the alk level drops in your tank?

If you're doing fair amount of water changes weekly, it is most critical to understand what you're adding to the tank with the water change. If the alk/ca/mg levels of the fresh saltwater mix you're adding during water change is close to ideal (or the levels you're aiming at), you will have very little need for any sort of dosing until your tank is fully stocked. Even then, more frequent water changes with good salt mix is probably much more effective than daily dosing.

What you want to aim for is the easiest method to maintain your tank, which would be critical to long term success of your reef tank. Some people may have energy and passion to micro manage every little thing that's happening to the tank everyday, but life is surprisingly resilient be able to deal with little problem here and there for you.


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## dllowe (Feb 20, 2013)

So a content update. I added a yellow watchman gobby and Randalls Pistol Shrimp.

I don't think that the gobby is the best specimen but was an inexpensive purchase.

As expected the shrimp disappeared as soon as I put him into the tank. Good thing I took some pictures during acclimation. At least he went into the "cave" that I prepped for him.

Although I dropped the goby just in front of the cave, he has since moved to the opposite site of the tank. Hopefully they will meet up soon. I drip acclimated them together, so they do know each other.


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## altcharacter (Jan 10, 2011)

I love how the watchman goby always looks pissed off. My goby always looks like he's stoned


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## dllowe (Feb 20, 2013)

I have not posted any updated to my tank lately because I have been having problems with my livestock, and I wanted to wait until I posted anything new.

When I last posted I added a watchman goby and pistol shrimp. Two days later my watchman died, and it was the last I saw of the pistol. This was Monday May 27th. As I had the day off for Memorial day (I work for a US based company and follow their holiday schedule), I headed down to NAFB to pickup a hammer coral,










and some Zoas from their $10 frag tank:










This past weekend, I decided to try my luck again with now trying to add a Clown Goby:










I also added two more ricordeas:










Come Monday morning, the Goby is gone. So I must have a death tank. Low and behold, after probably my 50th time searching for him in the tank, I find him here:










in my fuge/overflow. Now how did he get here? I have plenty of filter floss on the intake. Anyways, I finally catch him and put him back in the tank.

This brings us to this morning. The Goby is gone again. So I search the back of the tank and he is there again. But what's that, I think I see something else, poking out from under one of my return pumps:










My pistol shrimp!! I have not seen him for more then a week! And how the fcuk (french connection uk  ) did he get back there!

Now I noticed that his tail is partially amputated:










I am not sure if that happened when he managed to get into the back of the tank, or when I struggled to get the return pumps out. Those suction cups made it very difficult, and he was living under that pump.

At this point I managed to get the Goby back into the main tank, but the shrimp is hiding under the media basket (A) / fuge (B) section (see post 6 for the design of the back of my tank) of which I can't get too.

At this point I have added back in one of my return pumps and put a fish net at the entrance of section C, but I am not sure if I will ever be able to catch him.

Any idea of how he could have gotten back there?


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## aln (Jan 26, 2010)

Thats sure is weird how the first goby just passed. Hmm I just got my first livestock today ill see how that goes. Love to new watchman goby tho! And those rics looks great.

Is there any slots or holes for the goby to jump in?? Cant seem to thinm of any other way it got in the back. Maybe a FTS and a back picture of the filter area will help solve this problem. 

Everything looks great tho! How is the hammer coral treating you?? Im thinking of bicolour one


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## aln (Jan 26, 2010)

Ps looks like the shrimp might be molting. Keep an eye on it


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## dllowe (Feb 20, 2013)

It's be a while since my last update. But since attending the frag fest this past weekend, I have been re-inspired.

So an update since my last post:

- The pistol shrimp was dead by the next day. So obviously I inflected a fatal wound trying to find him. What I did find strange is that some white bugs that seems to be living in my overflow/fuge ate him up. Nothing was left two days later.

- The Clown Goby somehow got sucked into the overflow 2 more times. But 3 times seems to the be charm, as he has not gone over since. He is doing great.

- Looking at my pictures of my ricordeas they have definitely gone downhill. The are losing colour and are much smaller. Not sure what the problem is. Could it be two much light or not enough? They are at the front of the tank close to an overhang. They are definitely not in the shade, but also not in intense light.

- I have added a new fish, a Tail Spot Blenny. I am not sure how rare they are here, but since I started my tank about 5 months ago, I have only seen them in stock one.

So this guy seems to have taken a page from the Goby. He too got caught in the overflow, not once or twice. But three times just like the Goby. I guess three times is the charm for these fish.

- I picked up 6 frags at the show, including 3 SPS from Mad Jelly. No pictures yet, I want to give them some time to settle.

But I do want to post some of my Goby / Blenny. These seem to have paired up and get along great. Here are some of my fav. shots:









Keeping close at night, hoping not to get sucked into the overflow


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## aln (Jan 26, 2010)

keep us updated!  by any chance did you get that torch from reef aquarium from ken?... LOL he had a piece like it but with one head and it was sold already! i soooooo want it! LOL


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## dllowe (Feb 20, 2013)

I have not been posting much as not really much has been happening. A couple of weeks after my last post, I found my tail spot in the overflow again, this time he did not make it.

As I last mentioned I picked up 6 frags that the July coral show. 2 of the 3 SPS are completely dead, one still seems to be hanging on -- but definitely not doing so great. With that said, it is the favorite place for the clown goby to hang out.

The other three where a Duncan, Hammer and a Ricordeas. The Duncan and Hammer seem to be doing well. They extend very nicely, but no apparent growth (splitting, new heads, etc.).

Of all the Ricordeas that I had (4), only one is still alive. The others just disappeared (shrunk up, disconnected from their plugs, where never seen again -- could they have been eaten by the coral when they where floating aroundl?).

I have since added:

- a couple of black foot trochus snails
- a couple of nassarious snails
- a strawberry conch (who is taking his dear sweet time eating the diatoms from the sand)
- Red Firefish
- GPS Frag
- Some more Zoas

Here is the latest full tank shot (crappy picture, I don't seem to be able to get the colours right):










Now the Torch you where mentioning, it was actually my first coral, and I got it from Alex @ FragCave.

It has been doing very well, but just a couple of days ago I noticed that mouth area of one of the heads has turned white, and it is starting to lose it's purple. It's still extending, but seems to have less tentacles then it used to.

I also noticed a white spot on it's skeleton (above the plumbers putty that is holding it in place).

I don't know if this is how it splits (a new head comes out of the skeleton), or it is a bad sign.

The skeleton of the coral has sure changed over the past 8 or so months. Here is the before, and current shot.

Before:









Today:


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## aln (Jan 26, 2010)

Hmmm I wonder y the fish keeps getting into your back chamber.. that sure is strange. The torch is looking great though and I'm sorry to hear about the sps. Do you mix your own saltwater? Or buy it premixed? Cant think of y the crags would just go downhill. Hows the lighting?


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## Tristan (Aug 15, 2011)

In my experience Clown gobies usually kill SPS. SPS is their preferred home and in large colonies they kill off a small section to lay their eggs. In a large coral its not a big deal but in a small frag it usually kills them..


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## dllowe (Feb 20, 2013)

It's time to close this thread. Unfortunately, after 5 days without power, and still counting (I am still without power and no end in sight), everything is dead.

I have been out of town since Saturday, and although my in-laws have tried their best to keep my tank going, by re-charging my ups, putting in bottles of hot water, stirring the water when the ups was not going, after 4 days everything is now gone.

I will need to re-evaluate, and see if and when a re-build will start.


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## sig (Dec 13, 2010)

dllowe said:


> It's time to close this thread. Unfortunately, after 5 days without power, and still counting (I am still without power and no end in sight), everything is dead.
> 
> I have been out of town since Saturday, and although my in-laws have tried their best to keep my tank going, by re-charging my ups, putting in bottles of hot water, stirring the water when the ups was not going, after 4 days everything is now gone.
> 
> I will need to re-evaluate, and see if and when a re-build will start.


It just the reason to start bigger tank with the small generator  Try to find positive in any shit happened.

I lost corals, but now is the good reason to upgrade also 

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## aln (Jan 26, 2010)

hope you rebuild and come back strong!


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