# New 60 gallon, cycling question



## Nobis911 (Mar 28, 2011)

Hey guys, with the help of a few people on this forum, i managed to find a 55-60 gallon tank.

Now the old owner gave me a rena filstar xp2 filter, this filter has the filter and is still filled with water. Should i keep everything the way it is, or should i clean the water out and add new filter etc? Or would that get rid of the old bacteria?

Also should i do a fishless cycle or cycle with fish? And should my ornaments be put in place before i cycle? Or can i put that stuff in after the tank is cycled?

Any info would b great!

Thanks and all the best!


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## BillD (Jun 5, 2006)

If the filter has been sitting for any length of time most or all of the beneficial bacteria will be dead. You will know when you open the filter, by the smell. If the filter is dead remove all the elements and clean them thoroughly. How to do that will depend on what is in there. Sponges can be vigorously washed until no further material comes out, in plain tap water. Hard elements such as bio rings can be soaked in a bleach solution and thoroughly rinsed. The housing and hoses can be washed thoroughly with or without bleach.
The tank should be completely set up prior to cycling. 
If it were me the tank and any substrate would be bleached prior to use. bleach works well to help remove any biofilm adhering to the glass, and helps to burn off any organics in the substrate.
Any mineral deposits can be removed with vinegar, undiluted, and scrubbing. I use a plastic potscrubber usually. The vinegar will neutralize any residual bleach it makes contact with. A good rinse, and you are good to go,


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## Y2KGT (Jul 20, 2009)

Hi,
I would definitely empty and clean the Rena XP2 filter. It should contain a sponge in each of the 2 baskets and those can be cleaned under running warm water until the water runs clear. If there is any bio-media such as ceramic rings or bio-stars you can just rinse them in a bucket with de-chlorinated water.

If the filter had been shut down for no more than a couple of hours I would have told you to just rinse everything in de-chlorinated tap water and your tank would have cycled very quickly compared to starting from scratch.

If you have to start the cycle from the beginning I would suggest you get some Seachem Stability and a test kit for Ammonia Nitrite so you can tell when your tank is cycled.

http://www.seachem.com/Products/product_pages/Stability.html
--
Paul


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## 5318008 (Dec 11, 2010)

I would also suggest cleaning just to make sure that any diseases present won't be transferred to your new setup. Instead, maybe try sourcing old filter media from a friend or from somewhere you'd know won't contain any diseases.


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## TBemba (Jan 11, 2010)

Some say you can do a 98% water change and it will have no effect on fish and when you buy a new fish and put it into your tank it's like a 100% water change so...

But IMO I would clean the tank and filter completely. You have a perfect opportunity to clean everything and get a great start from the beginning.

I have a question is this your only tank? because if you have more than one tank you can kick start the new tank in a day. Here is how you do it.

Clean the new tank and filter completely and then make sure it is rinsed really well.

Then fill it up with 80% new water 20% old established tank water with dechlorinates and add a heater and get the temp up and add the filter from your old established tank (as long as it's a disease free tank) 

Put the new filter (just purchased and fully cleaned) on the established tank 

You can start adding fish to the new tank with the established filter (old tank filter) the very next day.
I have done this many many times without issue. But you have to add fish slowly to the new tank or you may have issues.

I have a tip: I always have a sponge filter in my tanks with cannister filters so that if i happen to have to start a new tank I have a quick way to cycle a tank fast.

If you have an existing cannister filter you can always take some of the media and put it in the new cleaned cannister and have them both continue to run on their tanks.

good luck and have fun...


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## Nobis911 (Mar 28, 2011)

Hey guys thanks for the great info, i have the nitrate and nitrite test trips, and i also have an ammonia liquid checker.

I was hopping i can start the cycle without the ornaments, rocks and sand, because im tight on cash atm. 

Anyone have any links to how to properly cycle a tank? I have a few but want to see what you guys have in your arsenal.

Thanks again everyone


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## qwerty (Dec 15, 2009)

There's a sticky on it 

Substrate, ornaments, etc would be helpful, since the bacteria will reside on these surfaces, but no, I'd say as long as you have your filter with your media then you don't really need anything else in the tank. Once you've got the bacteria you can support at least some bioload while the rest catches up and really there's nothing stopping you from seeding the substrate but I personally probably wouldn't bother.

I generally recommend introducing fish slowly just to be safe anyways.

It would probably be better if the tank was set up more, but not essential so you can at least start your cycle off and set the tank up slowly as it's cycling so you'll be ready by the time things come together.


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## Zebrapl3co (Mar 29, 2006)

Nobis911 said:


> ...Anyone have any links to how to properly cycle a tank? I have a few but want to see what you guys have in your arsenal.


http://gtaaquaria.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8458

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## Nobis911 (Mar 28, 2011)

Zebrapl3co said:


> http://gtaaquaria.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8458


thanks everyone, 
i actually just found that link last night after i posted. very helpful


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## Zebrapl3co (Mar 29, 2006)

Nobis911 said:


> thanks everyone,
> i actually just found that link last night after i posted. very helpful


Good, hope you decide to use the fishless cycling process.
I agree with some of the other posters. If there isn't something great about previous setup. You might as well nuke the tank and filter and start fresh. This way, if there are any surprises, you'll know that it's newly introduce and not something left over from the last setup.

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## fish_luva (Nov 24, 2009)

HI there,,,, For the cleaning i'm agreeing it needs to be done and the ways that are recommended here are great......

The product that paul has mentioned below, Seachem Stability, Is a great product and i have tested it.... i started two tanks.. 1 with about 28 fry in a 20 gallon tank, 1 sponge filter all new and water just put in with a de-chlorinator and 1 adult tank.... 75 gallon with about 12 4-5 inch malawi cichlids..... I started both these tanks and next day put the fish in with the required dose of the seachem stability and did not have any issues and no losses, even with the fry.... So that was either LUCK or the product does what it says it does...... To date... 4 months later... all is still doing great...

good luck



Y2KGT said:


> Hi,
> If you have to start the cycle from the beginning I would suggest you get some Seachem Stability and a test kit for Ammonia Nitrite so you can tell when your tank is cycled.
> 
> http://www.seachem.com/Products/product_pages/Stability.html
> ...


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## Nobis911 (Mar 28, 2011)

So do i add ammonia first befor i add seachem stability?

For example
1) fill tank with water
2) dechloronize water
3) add ammonia (3-4 ppm)
4) add seachem stability
5) let cycle

Would that work?


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## Zebrapl3co (Mar 29, 2006)

fish_luva said:


> HI there,,,, For the cleaning i'm agreeing it needs to be done and the ways that are recommended here are great......
> 
> The product that paul has mentioned below, Seachem Stability, Is a great product and i have tested it.... i started two tanks.. 1 with about 28 fry in a 20 gallon tank, 1 sponge filter all new and water just put in with a de-chlorinator and 1 adult tank.... 75 gallon with about 12 4-5 inch malawi cichlids..... I started both these tanks and next day put the fish in with the required dose of the seachem stability and did not have any issues and no losses, even with the fry.... So that was either LUCK or the product does what it says it does...... To date... 4 months later... all is still doing great...
> 
> good luck


I find that hard to believe, did you even test the water in your first few weeks?

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## Nobis911 (Mar 28, 2011)

So iv been looking for ammonia all day, pet smart didnt have, canadia tire didnt have, and neither did longos or loblaws, how ever i did find a very small hardware store that carried some.


The brand is "Majestic Extra Strength Ammonia"

It cost me 2.25

It did pass the shake test, and it smells awful lol it stings the nose.

I think i got the right one?


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## Nobis911 (Mar 28, 2011)

Hey guys sorry for bombarding with questions, but since im in richmond hill, how can i keep my ph level good enough for cichlids constant?! This question boggles my brain... Anyone?

Thanks in advance


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## TBemba (Jan 11, 2010)

Hey that's what the forum is all about people sharing knowledge and personal experience.

Depending ont he cichlid you shouldn't have to do anything to your water to keep cichlids. Every cichlid I know of will grow well in straight tap water and you shouldn't have any issues keeping them. Some south American's may need stuff to breed but you can worry about that when the time comes. Most cichlids will bred without anything special.

Best not to mess with your water's ph

Oh and I have heard that this product works for instant cycling of fw tanks https://drtimsaquatics.3dcartstores.com/4-oz-One-Only-H2O-PURE-Live-Nitrifying-Bacteria_p_2.html


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## Nobis911 (Mar 28, 2011)

Thanks man, reason i ask is that i noticed my other tank the ph droped to 6.5 from 7.5... So i just want to make sure the ph is perfect for them


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## Nobis911 (Mar 28, 2011)

well im here again, iv decided to use Seachem Stability. 
iv set up my tank for a couple hours now, waiting for the temp to reach 82F

the bottle sais 1 cap full for every 10 gal (so 6 capfuls for me) for the first day, and it says 1 cap full for every 20 gal (so thats 3 capfuls for me) every day for 7 days.

now do i add ammonia prior to adding seachem stability?


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## Y2KGT (Jul 20, 2009)

Nobis911 said:


> well im here again, iv decided to use Seachem Stability.
> iv set up my tank for a couple hours now, waiting for the temp to reach 82F
> 
> the bottle sais 1 cap full for every 10 gal (so 6 capfuls for me) for the first day, and it says 1 cap full for every 20 gal (so thats 3 capfuls for me) every day for 7 days.
> ...


I don't think you want to use both Ammonia and Stability to cycle your tank.

If you want to do a fishless cycle you use Ammonia along with test kits measuring first for ammonia and then when that reaches zero you measure for nitrite until that reaches zero. At that point your tank is cycled and you can begin adding fish very slowly until you reach you maximum stocking capacity.

Or you can use Stability as directed and add a few fish from the beginning and increase until you've reached your maximum stocking capacity. I still recommend you use test kits while using Stability to make sure you're fish are not being subjected to toxic ammonia and nitrite.

I've never done a fishless cycle however I have used Stability along with moving filter media from one of my tanks to the new tank to speed up the cycle process. In my opinion this is the best method for cycling a new tank.

Hope this helps.
--
Paul


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## Nobis911 (Mar 28, 2011)

So i did research and learnd that a fishless cycle with stability will work.

So today i added my ammonia got it around 4-5 ppm ish.

Once the ammonia was 4-5 ppm i added the first dose of stability! 

Excited to see how long this cycle takes. Cant wait to add fish


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## Zebrapl3co (Mar 29, 2006)

Heh, congratulation. And I am glad you took the fishless route .
Now, for the hardest part of this hobby. Watching an empty tank with water in it for a few weeks ...

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## Nobis911 (Mar 28, 2011)

Thanks man, im excited as well.

I gotta say tho i really struggle with this liquid ammonia test kit...

I dont know if the color is green enough for a 4 or less lol whats the best way to hold these tubes to tell the color,

I hold it next to the color on the paper to see if its a close match.

Is that right? 

Should i hold it against light? White background? Lol some input would be great. Before i stary recording numbers that are in correct


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