# Planted problem



## BenitoR

Hey guys

I have a few issues the first being im seeing algae (looks similar to bba but not occurring in clumps) its killing off lots of leaves on dwarf sag, and starting to affect amazon sword. 
My second issue is im seeing alot of die back on my dwarf sag, leaves yellowing. 

None of my plants have a rich vibrant green colour, most are browning not sure as to why.

Plants:
Dwarf sag (problems)
Leopard val (all good)
Amazon sword (algae problem)
Anubias nana (problems, roots growing well though)
Wisteria (growing well)
Java moss (browning, but reproducing fast)

Setup:
20gal long, 2 x T5 (9 hours a day), florite gravel
4 oto, 5 cardinal tetra, 6 cherry barb
dose; Flourish comp (2x a week recommended dose), leaf zone (5ml twice a week), excel less than half cap a day. pressurized co2 (recently added, low bps, 1 bubble every 15 sec)
Each plant also has a api root tab (once a month)

My tank has been running for about 2 months now

Any help would be greatly appreciated


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## BenitoR

The leaf zone and flourish comp are liquid and the api root tabs are solid fert tabs


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## cb1021

What kind of bulbs do you have? What's the Kelvin rating and wattage?


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## BenitoR

The bulbs are 2 x 24W, one is 6000k natural white light, of the other is 650nm red.


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## cb1021

That's a 24" fixture - over a 30" tank right? Are your plants directly under this light? Also get a drop checker to gauge your co2 levels. You're under-dosing co2 by far but in order to gauge the amount you need, a drop checker is a good way. BPS is not a good way because the size of the bubble and also the tank's ability to intake co2. For example I pump 4-6BPS (depending on which drop checker I use) into my 50 gallon. If you scale that down for your 20L, I think 2BPS is too much since your intake is less. Thats why a drop checker is a better method. 

You're under dosing co2. Also you don't have optimal light coverage.


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## BenitoR

Its a 30" fixture, yea the plants are directly under it. I will have to go get a drop checker, will up the co2 a bit until I do


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## cb1021

It's dangerous to play with co2 unless you are experienced with gauging levels by plant/fish symptoms. Also leaving co2 on at night time also presents a risk.

I would say 1 bubble per 3-4 seconds is safe. So you're looking for 15-20 bubbles per minute.


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## BenitoR

Alright I set the co2 for that. Do my other specs look ok though? are my ferts alright (not missing anything)?


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## cb1021

I think your issue right now lighting and co2 - both are needed to uptake any ferts. Putting ferts into a low-light setup won't do much (maybe algae). 

If you want a quick rescue, go pick up some Flourish Excel and dose according to recommendations by the label.


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## BenitoR

Any chance upping the Co2 like that will knock off the BBA? I was away for 2 days and had an outbreak of it while I was away.


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## cb1021

Combating algae is all about getting good plant growth. In order to get good plant growth, you need the proper balance between lighting, co2, and nutrients (fertilizers & substrate). 

So will co2 help you with your algae? Yes it will since your plants will grow better. To start, feel free to remove BBA manually by trimming it off.


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## dock

*Bacopa*

I don't quite get this, why does the same kind of plant bought from the same seller placed in the same tank at the same time in 2 different locations give different result? The bunch planted in the middle of the tank survives and the other bunch planted on the side has all leaves completely melted. My light bulbs are just as long as the tank. There are a few stems in the back of the center location melted also.

Oops! Oops! Sorry! 
I meant to start a new thread. How can I move this? Help!


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## Professor Monkey

The most likely cause is water flow. Most plants grow better if they are in a light current which brings them more nutrients and CO2. The corners of tanks often have stagnant water unless powerheads/filter outputs are well placed.

Some plants are more prone to melting than others - especially crypts. Some types will recover (like crypts) but others will not. I bought some Blyxa once that completely disintegrated and never recovered.


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## charlie1

BenitoR said:


> Hey guys
> 
> I have a few issues the first being im seeing algae (looks similar to bba but not occurring in clumps) its killing off lots of leaves on dwarf sag, and starting to affect amazon sword.
> My second issue is im seeing alot of die back on my dwarf sag, leaves yellowing.
> 
> None of my plants have a rich vibrant green colour, most are browning not sure as to why.
> 
> Plants:
> Dwarf sag (problems)
> Leopard val (all good)
> Amazon sword (algae problem)
> Anubias nana (problems, roots growing well though)
> Wisteria (growing well)
> Java moss (browning, but reproducing fast)
> 
> Setup:
> 20gal long, 2 x T5 (9 hours a day), florite gravel
> 4 oto, 5 cardinal tetra, 6 cherry barb
> dose; Flourish comp (2x a week recommended dose), leaf zone (5ml twice a week), excel less than half cap a day. pressurized co2 (recently added, low bps, 1 bubble every 15 sec)
> Each plant also has a api root tab (once a month)
> 
> My tank has been running for about 2 months now
> 
> Any help would be greatly appreciated


As cb1021 pointed out your CO2 dosing needs addressing big time.
*one other way to tweak your CO2 is by targeting a 1 point PH drop, this is done by getting a PH reading of your tank before any co2 injection ( like first thing in the morning before the co2 starts) , at the later stages of the photoperiod , say 2-3 hrs after lights are on , take another PH reading you are targeting 1 ph drop , example I you PH in the morning is 7.2, 2-3 hrs after the lights on , you should be @ 6.2.*
They are also other factors you need to address, such as your nutrient supplement, at this stage all you are adding to the tank are micro nutrient with both Flourish & Leaf Zone, API root tab as well, there need to be some Macro nutrients - Nitrates, Phosphates, Potassium also referred to as NPK 
The easiest approach to cover macro & micro nutrients is the popular method known as the estimative index, as suggested, start with 1/2 the suggested dosing & slowly ramp up if need be.
Do some research on this method & grasp how it works.
http://www.barrreport.com/forum/bar...ndex/2938-ei-light-for-those-less-techy-folks.
Regards
*To clarify, the PH reading in the morning should be done with a sample of the tank water taken out the day before & left in a container( out of the tank) for approx. 24 hrs, this gives it time to out gas any residual CO2.*


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## charlie1

Another observation based on what you have posted, all of your plants are low light with some at medium at best & with the expectation of the Sag. they are pretty much slow growing plants, the lighting ( if it is T5HO) is way more lights than they need since it`s only maybe 10 inches from the substrate on a 20 gallon long,
Raise the light


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