# Sticky  Coral Rescue Thread.....



## Taipan

Imitation is the best form of flattery (well, it usually is). I'm taking a cue from other forums and previous threads. This thread will provide a place where hobbyists can share "before" picture(s) , "after" picture(s), and progress of piece(s) he/she is attempting to nurse back to health. This can also be a place to discuss and suggest how a piece can/should be tended to, to bring it back to being a healthy and happy specimen. Good luck and good hunting everyone.

Credits:

http://www.gtaaquaria.com/forum/showthread.php?t=83841

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1918483


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## Taipan

*Unhappy Scolymia.....*

Here is my initial contribution:

This piece is not near death....but it certainly isn't happy. I "rescued" it from the lfs as I see some interesting potential in it (notice the center and the veins of colour that could form). Let's see what happens over time. I've provided a "blue" lighting picture and a "white" lighting picture with camera flash.





I'll be keeping it in low/moderate light on the aquarium floor, low flow. My "prescription"/regiment: Feeding residual "juice"/matter from melted mysis shrimp after feeding fish (2x week), broadcast Reef Roids (1x week), turkey baste the coral every once in awhile to decrease opportunity of any dead matter/decay that may be lingering from its injury or left over traces of food from feedings.


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## PaulF757

*Yellow Fiji*

Great topic and thanks for posting. While on the subject, I have a yellow fiji toadstool that doesn't look like its doing great. I know they can be very hard to keep at time, but i'm asking for advice on help with it.

I have it mid tank, and run t5s for 3 hours, white leds for 2 hours and blues the rest of the time. Its in a medium to high flow area.

Thanks.


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## Taipan

How long has it been "not looking well"? It may be in a phase where it is shedding. They can do that. They will "shed" and bounce back. Part of the growth process. 

Secondary: Any new additives/supplements to the aquarium lately? Leathers can have a reaction to that.

I'm hardly a leather expert though.


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## Crayon

*In need of rescue advice for LPS*

I'm having a battle with something in the tank that is taking out my LPS. It's not affecting mushrooms, leathers, SPS or any nps corals. Just LPS. It's not affecting any fish or inverts.

In the last 2 weeks, I have lost close to 12 corals. Some were not thriving, others showed no signs of any weakness. Some were fairly new, others I have had for over a year. Everything I've lost has been an LPS of some sort, including candy cane, brain, acans, chalice and austrolomussa .
Parameters on water have been the same if not better than before.

Last weekend, in an attempt to save a large acan colony that had started to die in one head, and the necrosis was spreading, I cut it, to see if I could keep a good section in tact. I know that this has worked for other people, but the whole colony is now gone.

I'm wondering about treating the whole tank for a bacterial infection with erythromycin or if anyone has other thoughts about what we can do.

Am doing water change again today, did 2 last weekend.


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## BIGSHOW

Crayon said:


> I'm having a battle with something in the tank that is taking out my LPS. It's not affecting mushrooms, leathers, SPS or any nps corals. Just LPS. It's not affecting any fish or inverts.
> 
> In the last 2 weeks, I have lost close to 12 corals. Some were not thriving, others showed no signs of any weakness. Some were fairly new, others I have had for over a year. Everything I've lost has been an LPS of some sort, including candy cane, brain, acans, chalice and austrolomussa .
> Parameters on water have been the same if not better than before.
> 
> Last weekend, in an attempt to save a large acan colony that had started to die in one head, and the necrosis was spreading, I cut it, to see if I could keep a good section in tact. I know that this has worked for other people, but the whole colony is now gone.
> 
> I'm wondering about treating the whole tank for a bacterial infection with erythromycin or if anyone has other thoughts about what we can do.
> 
> Am doing water change again today, did 2 last weekend.


Have you tried searching for flatworms? Maybe dip some of your hardier LPS.

Are the colonies dying overnight or are they slowly melting away?


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## Crayon

I have flat worm but the melanarus keeps it in check. I see them on the mushrooms, but not the larger LPS. The flatworms are not causing this, I don't think.
At first, 2 weeks ago, some of my pieces melted overnight. The neon candy cane which I had had for over 8 months went in 2 days. Nothing wrong with it prior, no signs of stress. It was only 2 heads, but it was always out and plump.
One chalice which was over a year old, and doing well started to bleach. I moved it into the refugium and within a day it went all jelly. Gone within 24 hours.
I'm running carbon and UV and we did 2 water changes, so about 40% total volume. Since then the death rate has slowed down, but I think I am still loosing pieces.

Just before this happened, I bought live brine shrimp from BA Mississauga. Strained them, rinsed quickly in well water and fed the tank. Is there any chance that I introduced something with the brine shrimp?


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## BIGSHOW

Crayon said:


> I have flat worm but the melanarus keeps it in check. I see them on the mushrooms, but not the larger LPS. The flatworms are not causing this, I don't think.
> At first, 2 weeks ago, some of my pieces melted overnight. The neon candy cane which I had had for over 8 months went in 2 days. Nothing wrong with it prior, no signs of stress. It was only 2 heads, but it was always out and plump.
> One chalice which was over a year old, and doing well started to bleach. I moved it into the refugium and within a day it went all jelly. Gone within 24 hours.
> I'm running carbon and UV and we did 2 water changes, so about 40% total volume. Since then the death rate has slowed down, but I think I am still loosing pieces.
> 
> Just before this happened, I bought live brine shrimp from BA Mississauga. Strained them, rinsed quickly in well water and fed the tank. Is there any chance that I introduced something with the brine shrimp?


Doesn't really sound like FW but the FW I am talking about will not be eaten by a melanurs, these suckers are huge like 1-2" (flat), and speckled. They are LPS killers. Still might be a good idea to dip one of the pieces to make sure. If not a predator then you can go back to it being a WQ or possibly lighting issue.


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## zoapaly

Crayon said:


> I have flat worm but the melanarus keeps it in check. I see them on the mushrooms, but not the larger LPS. The flatworms are not causing this, I don't think.
> At first, 2 weeks ago, some of my pieces melted overnight. The neon candy cane which I had had for over 8 months went in 2 days. Nothing wrong with it prior, no signs of stress. It was only 2 heads, but it was always out and plump.
> One chalice which was over a year old, and doing well started to bleach. I moved it into the refugium and within a day it went all jelly. Gone within 24 hours.
> I'm running carbon and UV and we did 2 water changes, so about 40% total volume. Since then the death rate has slowed down, but I think I am still loosing pieces.
> 
> Just before this happened, I bought live brine shrimp from BA Mississauga. Strained them, rinsed quickly in well water and fed the tank. Is there any chance that I introduced something with the brine shrimp?


If you can post few pics may help to know what happening with your LPS corals


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## Crayon

I've pulled all the dead ones. Today took out the remains of a 6" acan colony and a symphyllia that had been going down hill for the last 2 weeks. The only thing left that is showing signs of distress is an 8" austrolomussa that has a small pink spot which looks like bleaching. Right now, everything else in the tank looks fine.
As the lights are on their evening ramp down now, I will post a photo of the Aussie tomorrow. It really doesn't look like much more than a light spot.


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## Taipan

Use a "Red" light/flashlight and shine it in your display and sump when the lights are off or ramped down (moon light). Do this about an hour after the lights are off or moon lights are on (or in the middle of the night/morning when you have the munchies and raid the fridge). 

If you can't find a "Red" flashlight; use a common flashlight and shine it through a Red plastic lense or file folder. Most creatures won't be startled by the red spectrum as they would white or blue. You'll be amazed at the things that come out at night. You may find some flat worms or other form of LPS predator. If not....just enjoy the "new" life you hadn't really seen before in normal lighting parameters.


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## Crayon

Hey thanks Red,
I will have to invest in some red flashlight gear! Tonight I checked around 11PM and all I could find was a cowrie that I don't recall having purchased. It's small, about an inch long and appears to be a money cowrie, so I don't think its the culprit.
Will keep checking.
Photos tomorrow.


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## Taipan

*14 Day Update.....*

Albeit a relatively easy rescue. I set the bar low on purpose for the first post. Scolymia is recovering well. Tissue has reformed over the exposed skeleton on the perimeter. It is eating and has full mouth extensions and puffs out. It is reacting well to lighting and food stimuli.

Don't be intimidated and share your successes and not-so-successful attempts.


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## RKLion

Nice job Taipan!


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## Taipan

Thanks. I'm certain you've had more than your fair share of "rescues"  .


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## RKLion

Part of the game. But it's a nice rewarding feeling when your successful.


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## Taipan

Totally agree. It's also nice and rewarding (as you know) when you find an "ugly duckling" and watch it flourish into something insane.


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## fury165

So what is the trick on identifying corals that have potential to rebound from death's door?


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## Taipan

A lot of it is intuition or luck (not the answer you wanted to hear). However; one of the determining factors I use for lps such as scolymia, acanthophyllia, cynarina, and chalices - is whether or not a 'mouth' is partially intact or visible. I find that having a 'mouth' is key to survival. It increases chances exponentially. Once damage is done to the entire mouth or for example algae overtakes the skeleton where the mouth used to be; it is a near impossible undertaking.

With my limited experience with sps; I've found that even the smallest portion of living tissue over the skeleton can grow over time - as long as there is no Rapid Tissue Necrosis or Slow Tissue Necrosis involved. Again in terms of "mouths" (for the types of sps that have polyps) - it helps if you can see some form of undamaged polyp 'openings'. It doesn't mean you have to see polyp extensions (since it's clearly not happy at this stage); just unobstructed openings.


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## Taipan

*Mini-Donut or Whatever.....*

This piece came in; in really rough shape. A lot of the skeleton is showing and the mouth shows no stimuli response when food is present. There is colour potential for this piece. A regiment of low light, moderate flow with no supplemental feedings for now. I will introduce snails to the perimeter of the coral to eat away at any dead/deteriorating flesh that may still be present and in hopes to reduce algae that may grow on the skeleton that would inhibit recovery. Updates to follow.


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## teemee

Taipan said:


> This piece came in; in really rough shape. A lot of the skeleton is showing and the mouth shows no stimuli response when food is present. There is colour potential for this piece. A regiment of low light, moderate flow with no supplemental feedings for now. I will introduce snails to the perimeter of the coral to eat away at any dead/deteriorating flesh that may still be present and in hopes to reduce algae that may grow on the skeleton that would inhibit recovery. Updates to follow.


wow it's beautiful. hope you can make it better!


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## tom g

*coral rescue*

just wanted to openly thank Red ...
a few months ago I purchased a piece from fragcave not sure what its called im horrible with names ..and even worse at taking pics .the coral was a purple with green specs similar to a acan or some type .it did good at the beginning but slowly and slowly its skeleton started to show more and more .so around the same time Red started this I decided I would give it a shot .I had no idea that I would succeed when I put this piece in the sump .so I purchased a few of the containers from the dollar store .I floated it in and let it sit under a fuge lamp 6500 fluorescent bulb ...lo and behold the skeleton has flesh on it and its nice and puffy .. 
I will try to take some pics tomorrow and add them here 
anyways hope this thread gives someone else some inspiration to do the same 
cheers 
tom

added a really crappy pic but its all I got as u can see the edges are kinda puffy and no skeletal bones showing not sure what this is but its purple and has green eyes or spots when atinics are on


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## Taipan

Sweet! I'm glad to hear things are progressing. Thanks for the kind words.


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## Sunstar

I recently was given a small unhappy bit of blastomussa - one head and it's really fat and happy now. Been a few weeks. Sorry no pics though


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## kevin tran

I am seeking help on this one, I have a goni and a few zoa that are cover in this kind of algea. Light bulb it not that old, maybe 6-7 month old. Parameters are good. The only reason for this that I could think of is my ro unit so I just change every filter and new membrane. Meanwhile is their some kind of a dip for my coral (goni and zoa) to ridge of this algea. This algea had stop my goni and zoas from opening, thank in advance


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## Taipan

Off the top of my head; there are 2 quick/short term solutions for nuisance algae growing on or among your corals:

#1.) You can introduce an known algae eating snail(s) such as Astrea Turbo Snail or Mexican Turbo Snail and place it directly on the affected area of the coral.

#2.) A solution using diluted Hydrogen Peroxide on the affected area for the goniopora and perhaps even a bath for the zoas. You'll have to perform a search engine query online to see what iluted level you are comfortable with. There may be members that can chime in on what they use.

In the meantime; perhaps lowering your light period and perhaps lighter feedings to discourage algae growth.


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## kevin tran

I put two snail on it last night and they just craw away, stupid snails. I will attempt to dip with hydrogen peroxide tonight so I want to post a before pic of the goni. I know this coral is sensitive so not planning to use a lot of peroxide. Here a pic of the goni covered with algea


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## Taipan

*Updates.....*

Scolymia I will consider as "rescued".

Mini-Donut or whatever it is; is still a work in progress. Flesh is slowly growing back. Colouration is significantly better. All it takes is time now.


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