# My 90 Gallon Stand Build



## Photo_man76

So I have just started my stand build for the 90 gallon tank I have recently acquired.

The tank dimensions are 48x18x24 (actually 48 1/2 x 18 1/2)

Stand frame is going to be 50x22x35 but will be closer to 53x24x35½ once all the sides, doors, and trim is on, It will have 3 doors on the front and will be finished on the inside as well.

The frame probably took around 3 hrs to design cut and assemble (we designed and made adjustments on the way which probably increased the time a little bit but not much)

Supplies and tools used for the frame alone 

miter saw (but could be done with hand saw)
Power drill/driver
Tape measure
2x4x8 used 9 total about $25-$30
3 ½" wood screws I think there was at least 128 used
Some handy tips for anyone thinking about DIY'n their own stand:

Make sure you buy wood that is as straight as possible on all sides if it's not you will have issued down the road during assembly 
Measure twice and cut once to reduce waste 
Remember that a 2x4 is actually 1 ½ x 3 ½ so when you are making your plans uses these measurements


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## Photo_man76

*My 90 Gallon Stand Build (frame)*

Starting with the base 
This is base Dimensions are 50x22- the front and back pieces are 50inch the ends are 19inch making the 50x22

Needed : 2 boards at 50 and 2 boards at 19


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## Photo_man76

*My 90 Gallon Stand Build (frame)*

The next step was to make the uprights which was the same process as the base so we made 4 more fames on a smaller scale

The upright Dimensions are 31 ½" x 22 - the front and back pieces are 31 ½ inches the ends (tops and bottoms) are 19inch making the 31 ½" x 22

Needed: 8 boards at 31½ and 8 boards at 19 (2 of each for each upright)


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## Photo_man76

*My 90 Gallon Stand Build (frame)*

The next step was to fasten the uprights to the base 
The 2 ends are flush with the ends of the base
The 2 centre uprights will be spaced so there is 12 inches away from the end uprights creating 3 openings of 12inches


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## Photo_man76

*man76 My 90 Gallon Stand Build (frame)*

We then added 6 more 19inch lengths to the base so that we have something to attached the floor too (this could have been done during the building of the base but I was not sure if I was going to do 2 or 3 openings - I have decided on 3 )

These boards were attached to based on both sides of the uprights


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## Photo_man76

Next we place a 12inch board at the back of the openings so that we have something to attached the finished inside backing to 
We only need 3, one for each opening


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## Photo_man76

*My 90 Gallon Stand Build (frame)*

Next we attached to uprights together at the top of the frame 
There are 6 12inch boards needed


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## Photo_man76

*My 90 Gallon Stand Build (frame)*

Next we added a 19inch board to the centre of each upright so that we have a place to fasten interior sides to as well as potential shelves 
Needed: 4 19 inch boards


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## Photo_man76

*My 90 Gallon Stand Build (frame)*

so if my math serves me correctly

Total number and lengths that the 2x4s were cut 
20 at 19inch
2 at 50inhc
9 at 12inch

hopefully i will get the inside pannels cut this weekend and put to get a better picture of the over all feel


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## Riceburner

looking good. It could be said it's over built, but better more than less. Most of the generic store stands are just particle board and only about 4 sheets of verticals holding up the top.


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## Photo_man76

Yea it is defiantly over built but I wanted a pice of furniture in the end not just a stand


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## ChuckRum

Photo_man76 said:


> Next we attached to uprights together at the top of the frame
> There are 6 12inch boards needed


how did you attach these? also, great build, ive always wanted to make one myself until i discovered cinderblocks.


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## Photo_man76

ChuckRum said:


> how did you attach these? also, great build, ive always wanted to make one myself until i discovered cinderblocks.


these were just attached with 4 wood screws driven in at an angle 2 on top 2 on the bottom


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## Jordin

Any pictures of this thing finished?


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## Photo_man76

Currently no, I haven't had any time lately to work on it. I'm planning on doing some work on it this weekend & hopefully I can update this post


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## Photo_man76

I have finally found some time to get back to this stand build almost 2 months later - anyway today's goal was to finish all the insides (sides floor back)

went to Home Depot to pick up the following supplies 

2 sheets of 1/4 inch Oak plywood (4x8 Feet) [email protected]$40.00 (for panels) 
1 sheet of 1/2inch Oak plywood (4x8 Feet) [email protected]$70.00 (for Framing panels, covering the front and making the top )
totals $150 + tax 

this can obviously be done with something other then Oak as it is clearly an expensive choice


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## Photo_man76

*My 90 Gallon Stand Build - Interior*

So the first step was to cut the 2 end panels to cover the 2x4 frame

we used a table saw and cut the 1/4inch plywood to the size of the frame ends which is 22wx35h

the next step was to attach the end panels to frame

we used a finishing nails with a pneumatic nailer gun - this can be done with finishing nails and a hammer if you don't have a pneumatic nailer

we only fastened the panels on the edges of the frame even though there is a centre 2x4 that we could have nailed too - this was because the centre of the panel will be exposed and we don't want to see a nail in the centre of the door

just a fyi 
in the second pic we are using the off cuts from the 1/4inch ply to fill in the front 2x4s so that when we put the 1/2nch ply on top everything will be an equal distance from the frame and line up properly
because the front it is going to be covered they do not have to be one full piece

the strips we cut the width of the 2x4s


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## Photo_man76

Next we cut the interior panels from the same 1/4inch ply
dimensions of the interior panels are approximately 31.5inch high and 20.5 inches deep

we made 6 interior panels - each one had to have a notch cut in it at the top front so that it would fit the frame


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## Photo_man76

*My 90 Gallon Stand Build - Interior*

All the side panels in an fastened - now ready to put in the back pannels and floor


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## Photo_man76

*My 90 Gallon Stand Build - exterior*

now that all the panels have been cut and installed its time to frame the end panels and face the front with the 1/2inch oak ply

we cut a strip of ply from the 8x4 board at about 3 3/4 of an inch wide
we then cut the 3 3/4inch strip into a length of 52inches and 23inches

then we cut a 45degree angle (mitered) on the end of each one 
we then attached the the 25inch board to bottom of the front of the frame and the 23inch board to the right died of the frame

we did the same of the left side
and again the process was completed for he top


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## Photo_man76

*My 90 Gallon Stand Build - corners*

for the 2 front corners we cut another strip from the 1/2inch ply for the front and the side with a 45 degree angle cut the entire length of the board so that we could miter the corners. Sorry not picture of the cut

the center strips were cut straight or 0 degree

As you can see the end panel is now has a frame around it created by the 1/2 in oak ply


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## Photo_man76

*My 90 Gallon Stand Build - Top*

Now for the Top I used the remainder of the 1/2inch oak ply

originally i was planning on having the top hang over the rest of the cabinet by about 1.5 inches

after trying it with an over hang I decided to make the top flush with the cabinet and add some trim/molding to the edge which ends up giving the feeling of an overhang

i had some leftover oak trim that was about 1 inch wide that we used

i have not covered the back yet but will be adding something to cover this up in the end

next i will add doors, some trim/molding to side panels and then stain the whole thing - hopefully have this completed in the next 2 weeks


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## Photo_man76

*man76 My 90 Gallon Stand Build - Doors*

So yesterday I ordered 3 doors to fit the openings

The door dimensions are 14x30 and will be the same style as the end panels

I ordered the doors rather than build them because it didn't cost much more then it would have if I was to build them my self


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## Photo_man76

*man76 My 90 Gallon Stand Build - Doors*

Got the Trim for the end pannels installed 
sorry bad pic but will take anotherone shortly


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## default

great looking stand! planning to paint it or keeping it natural?


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## Photo_man76

Thanks - I'm planning on staining it on the darker side. I'm still sampling stain on some leftover scraps till I find the one I like best. I'm pretty close now to making a choice. Hopefully get it done this weekend


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## default

Photo_man76 said:


> Thanks - I'm planning on staining it on the darker side. I'm still sampling stain on some leftover scraps till I find the one I like best. I'm pretty close now to making a choice. Hopefully get it done this weekend


Redwood 
Are you custom fitting a hood as well? - to match the stand? Or open top?


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## Photo_man76

No I wont be doing a hood - it will be left open - well at least for now 

here is a pic of the molding and a better pic of the molding attached to the end panel

there is a sample of possible stain in the top left corner of the panel picture


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## default

Photo_man76 said:


> No I wont be doing a hood - it will be left open - well at least for now
> 
> here is a pic of the molding and a better pic of the molding attached to the end panel
> 
> there is a sample of possible stain in the top left corner of the panel picture


Looks nice, best of luck


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## Photo_man76

*staining process*

So I have started the staining process

I have chosen to use Minwax - Early American 230 it is an oil-based wood stain which cost around $13 depending on where you buy it

Before starting

SURFACE PREPARATION:

•Surface must be dry, clean, and free of dirt, grease, glue, etc before staining.
•Sand the wood in the direction of the grain using fine-grade sandpaper (#220) until smooth.
•Remove all sanding dust.(wipe down with a damp cloth allow wood to dry before applying stain)

STAIN APPLICATION:

•Apply stain in the direction of the grain with a natural brush or clean cloth. (I applied with a natural brush)
•Allow the stain to penetrate 5-15 minutes to achieve desired color. The more time the stain is allowed to penetrate, the richer and darker the color will be. (I only left on for 5 minutes)
•Remove stain that has not penetrated the wood with a clean cloth. Wipe in the direction of the grain, while blending light and dark areas to obtain uniform color. DO NOT ALLOW STAIN THAT HAS NOT PENETRATED THE WOOD TO DRY ON THE WOOD SURFACE.
•To darken color, apply a second coat after 4-6 hours, repeating directions for application of first coat. Do not sand between coats of stain. I found that the 2nd coat didn't make any difference for my application so I will only be doing one coat of the stain for the rest of my project

After completing all the staining I will be putting on 2 coats of Polyurethane to cover/seal the stain

Attached are a few pictures of the shelves and shelve rails/supports that will be going inside the cabinet


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## Photo_man76

*staining process..cont*

got home and got the rest of it stained today - so far so good - just have to do the doors and then Polyurethane it

i re stained the 3 shelves and the rings are no longer there as in the picture


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## Jordin

You've put some work into this one, can't wait to see the finished job.

Looks great


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## Photo_man76

Thanks Jordin

Yea there's a bit of work in it that's for sure. I'm hoping to have it pretty much done this weekend - hopefully


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## Photo_man76

*Polyurethane*

Finally found time to get some work work done on this

I used Minwax Stain so im using Minwax Polyurethane to protect the finish as well

I have chosen to used Minwax Fast-Drying Polyurethane and went with a Satin

prep for the polyurethane was to lightly sand down the stained cabinet 
with 220grit sandpaper

applying the polyurethane is pretty much the same process as the stain except that you should not shake the can to mix polyurethane only uses a stir stick as shaking the can will create bubbles which when applied to the wood will created rough surface

and between the fist and the second coat you need to so another light sanding with the 220grit sandpaper

in the following pictures it shows the differences from stained, sanded to fist coat of polyurethane

as you can see in the 2nd and 3rd picture the colour difference after sanding the already stained wood is quite a bit lighter (milky like) but don't worry after the Polyurethane is applied the colour will come back

4th picture has one coat of Polyurethane on all but the top


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## Photo_man76

*final*

so the final coat of Poly has been applied and dried.

now i added a backer board and added a desk grommet to the inside back top right corner of the right opening

as you can see from the picture the inner cap of the grommet pops out making full use of the grommet, which will be used for running my filter lines, and power lines through

i cute the hole for the grommet with a 2 /12inch Keyhole saw bit for my drill which left a slightly lager hole then the grommet

i haven't finished the doors yet or installed the shelves but they can be done at a later date - but this is now finished enough for me to get on with most important part - the TANK


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## Al-Losaurus

Nice stand thing i like about yours is it even looks good without doors.

I did something similar sort of but made one wrong cut leaving me to have to buy another sheet of oak at 90 bux to finish the doors so i thought ah no problem i will do it in the near future... a year and a half later and i have made many improvements to the tank but still have not completed the doors lol actually do not even have the tank on my diy stand at the moment. i sank i would say around $350 into building this stand oak is expensive but looks the best.

Great job man looks really nice

don't mind the tools this pic is when i made it other is with the tank improvements


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## Photo_man76

Thanks Al

I think the reason mine is good with out the doors is because i finished the insides as well 
I would say $350 is the number I'm at as well, give or take a few bucks 

yours is pretty sweet too - i like how you framed in the bottom of the tank with the trim - jut got to get them doors done lol 

Thanks again for that driftwood - its going to look great in my tank


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