# New 125 g planted tank has green Algae Need Help please!



## guppy101 (May 15, 2009)

Hi i have started up a 125 gallon planted tank. it is 15 days old. I have two 2213 running which were in mature tanks previously. I have the heat set at around 80deg c
I have an out break of green beard algae. I have done two 10% water changes so far. I have 240 watts of light T8's (run for around 8hrs a day.
I have added few teaspoons of salt on start up. i have used half the dose of cycle at water changes, have also added big als plant feed.
I am shopping for a CO2 automatic system which i need help with too.

Please help with any suggestions.

Thanks


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## Calmer (Mar 9, 2008)

Most say the cause is low co2.
http://www.theplantedtank.co.uk/algae.htm
Another good site:
http://www.aquariaplants.com/alqaeproblems.htm

I have used hydrogen peroxide for hair algae and it did eliminate it but the hair algae has since come back again. There is no co2 on that tank. It's a 38gal and I plan on temporarily taking all the fish out and overdosing with Flourish excel. I have another 38 gal that gets Flourish excel daily and there is some Green Dust Algae on the back wall that I leave for the fish and shrimp to nibble on. Unfortunately your 125 is too big to economically use florish excel on a regular basis. You can use an old tooth brush to twist the algae onto and remove it that way but be careful not to pull the plant out of the substrate. 
You meant to say that you have the heat set at 80F. If the fish can take a lower temperature to say 75F it would be better.


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## Darkblade48 (Jan 28, 2008)

You have a lot of light for a tank your size, so you might actually have a high light tank. 

Since you have that much lighting, you will need to step up on your macronutrients and micronutrients dosing. I believe the Big Al's plant feed only contains micronutrients, but best to check the label first.

As for CO2, what kind of "automatic system" are you looking for? What are you having trouble with?


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## guppy101 (May 15, 2009)

*Thanks Guys*

I will take your advice. The Co2 units at big als are so expensive I was looking if someone could tell me where to buy the parts and make my own.

Thanks


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## Mr Fishies (Sep 21, 2007)

While we don't want our tanks tanks full of algae, it's important to remember we are trying to grow plants not kill algae. You don't mention what plants or how your plants are doing?

If your tank has not cycled you could be having algae issues from too much ammonia, are there fish in the tank? Or, if it has, not enough of a particular nutrient or any number of things. I'm not familiar with the plant food from BA's but with a tank that big, you could go through a lot of it just to keep levels at a minimum to keep plants growing.

Are you testing your water? Without some numbers for "evidence" we can only guess at what might help.


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## Darkblade48 (Jan 28, 2008)

guppy101 said:


> I will take your advice. The Co2 units at big als are so expensive I was looking if someone could tell me where to buy the parts and make my own.
> 
> Thanks


Parts can be acquired either locally or online from various sources (don't restrict yourself to online shops only).

Here's a quick run down of what you will need:

*CO2 Tank*
Tanks come in 2.5, 5, 10 and 20 pound tanks. You could also use paintball CO2 tanks, but there have been warnings around oil in paintball canisters, and also the fact that refill costs for a paintball CO2 tank (20 ounce) is about the same as a 2.5, 5 or 10 pound tank.

*CO2 Regulator*
A piece of equipment that will bring the CO2 tank pressure (usually ~800 PSI) down to a much lower delivery pressure (~10-30 PSI). There are various regulators out there (Cornelius, Concoa, Victor, Matheson, etc). Some are single stage regulators versus dual stage regulators. Regardless of whether you get a single or dual stage regulator, try to get a dual gauge regulator (note: dual stage is not the same as dual gauge). A dual gauge regulator will have two gauges: one will measure the CO2 tank pressure, while the second will tell you the delivery pressure.

*Needle Valve*
Another piece of essential equipment; this will further reduce the delivery pressure to an even lower pressure. We usually require CO2 delivery rates measured in "bubbles per second", hence the need for a needle valve. Again, there are various brands (Clippard, Fabco, Swagelok, Ideal) with varying costs ($15 - upwards of $100). You get what you pay for here; the lower end needle valves may be more finicky, and not keep a stable CO2 delivery rate, etc. Various part numbers for each company's needle valves are available on the forums, but here is a brief run down of parts numbers.

Clippard: MNV-4K2
Fabco: NV-55
Swagelok: Various needle valves, best to ask
Ideal: 52-1-11

Optional, but highly recommended parts

*Solenoid*
An electronic on/off switch. This will allow you to control your CO2 via a timer or with a pH controller (if you so desire). Various brands available (Clippard, Burkert, Parker)

*Check Valve*
As mentioned, this is a one way valve that will prevent water from back siphoning into your regulator setup.

*Bubble Counter*
Will allow a quick visual check of how many bubbles per second you are injecting CO2 into your tank. Various brands available (JBJ is a common one); DIY is also possible.

*CO2 Drop Checker*
Provides a quick visual check of the concentration of CO2 dissolved in your aquarium water. Various brands available (Cal Aqua, ADA, No name brands, DIY is also possible).


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## Calmer (Mar 9, 2008)

Also check valves are not the cheap airline ones.
Here is a picture of one:
http://www.bestaquariumregulator.com/CO2.html#check
I bought my whole co2 setup from Rex. No complaints so far and the Fabco needle valve works well for me. The only thing I didn't buy from Rex was the co2 tank. I got the 20 lb tank from:
http://www.hydrotechhydroponics.com/sandbox/index.php/Carbon-Dioxide/View-all-products.html
It costs $28 for a refill they just swap the co2 tank out.


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## guppy101 (May 15, 2009)

*Thanks Guys*

I have around 14 bunches of various plants Mr Fishes, Ferns, amazons, cabomba, Rotala, baby tears and a few others that i do not know names for.
The plants are doing ok however they get covered with algae.I keep trying to take this off. 
I have not been testing my water. How would i go about testing it ?

Thanks anthony for the Co2 systems


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## Darkblade48 (Jan 28, 2008)

You should purchase a test kit; the API master test kit is one that works well, from my experience.

Test kits will allow you to test for various water parameters such as pH, kH, gH, nitrates, ammonia, nitrites, etc.


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