# Presentation of my tank. Hope you like it



## monk21 (Dec 5, 2012)

*78.5 gallon tank (dimensions - 48" x 21" x 18")
*​glass tops (two plus two pieces covering 80-90% of the tank with the exception of a small piece at the back because of the equipment)
*48" coralife lights.​* Dual bulb 10.000K and 6.500K white lights (10 hours on a day)
*Co2 system with a 5lb cylinder with regulator, bubble counter and solenoid.​* (2-3 bps for 10 hours on a day along with the lights) Fluval ceramic diffuser. Fluval CO2 indication kit.​
*Filtration​*
fluval C3 (rated: 20-50 gallon tanks - 153 gph)
AquaClear 50 (rated: 20-50 gallon tanks - 200 gph)
AquaClear 50 (rated: 20-50 gallon tanks - 200 gph)
Aquaclear 110 (rated: 60-110 gallon tanks - 500 gph)
Total: 1053 gph
_*Each filter has a sponge, seachem matrix and/or fluval biomax. The QuietFlow currently has a new bag of carbon. 
_

*Decorations​*
67lb fluval stratum
several plants and a couple of moss balls
red lava rock and some grey rocks

*Additives/ liquids/ food used​*Seachem flourish (once or twice a week depending on the condition of my plants/ fish/ water)
Seachem Prime (with every water change or to remove ammonia if needed)
Seachem Stability (used to establish the tank, every time a new filter is introduced, every time media are washed/removed and whenever new fish are added)

*Food​*
Frozen blood worms
Spirulina enriched frozen Brine shrimp
Omega One freeze dried Tubifex worms
Aqueon tropical flakes
HBH 8 veggie flakes
Aqueon algae rounds
wardley spirulina discs

*Fish and other live organisms​*12 neon tetra
9 rummynose tetra
2 unidentified apistogramma
5 rosy barbs
6 red minor tetra
6 glow light tetra
6 lamp eye tetra
6 rasbora heteromorpha
5 mystery/apple snails
~100 baby mystery/apple snails (if anyone wants any for free let me know)
half a dozen or so Ghost shrimp
1 african dwarf frog

*Testing/ water changes​*API freshwater master test kit

Ammonia - 0
Nitrites - 0
Nitrates - 10-20
pH - 6.4
co2 levels - normal (according to fluval co2 indication kit)

Water change every month or so since tests keep coming back normal.

*Pictures​*


----------



## 10G (Sep 15, 2013)

Wow, great looking tank! Any FTSs?


----------



## monk21 (Dec 5, 2012)

10G said:


> Wow, great looking tank! Any FTSs?


thanks! FTS you mean Full Tank Shots? If yes, then the first one is such a picture! If not, I don't know what it means!


----------



## OneLastDecree (Nov 13, 2012)

Those apistos look amazing. 
I can't wait until my shipment from peru comes. 
I want my Apisto Cockatoudies.


----------



## monk21 (Dec 5, 2012)

Apistos are great.

By the way, anyone has those rosy barbs? advice?


----------



## monk21 (Dec 5, 2012)

Original Post updated with new equipment, fish and new pictures


----------



## monk21 (Dec 5, 2012)

UPDATE

I added an Aquaclear 50 and I removed the QuietFlow 55/75 and I added an Aquaclear 110. Things now are:

fluval C3 (rated: 20-50 gallon tanks - 153 gph)
AquaClear 50 (rated: 20-50 gallon tanks - 200 gph)
AquaClear 50 (rated: 20-50 gallon tanks - 200 gph)
Aquaclear 110 (rated: 60-110 gallon tanks - 500 gph)
Total: 1053 gph


----------



## greg (Apr 29, 2012)

Tank looks great. Plants appear to be doing well. Definitely have a lot of filter capacity so shouldn't ever have serious issues with bio-load.

I like the contrast between the substrate and the plants. I've recently done something similar on my show tank - only took me a year to figure out that too many plants may not provide the best look - while you appear to have figured out that design element right from the start 

You are dosing micros for the plants, but haven't indicated that you add macros - ie. nitrogen, phosphate and potassium. Are you adding these essential elements as well?

One thing that surprises me is that your drop checker indicates green, since your bps is lower than I would expect for a tank that size. In addition, considering that Fluval stratum lowers PH quite a bit, I might expect a bigger drop in PH when combined with the effects of CO2. I've never used this substrate though so don't have any firsthand experience...

Good luck and I look forward to more updates in the future.


----------



## monk21 (Dec 5, 2012)

HI and thanks for the reply. The only thing I am dosing is flourish. Do you have something in addition to suggest?

Now, as for my co2, I don't know how trustworthy the indicator from fluval is. If you have another inexpensive and easy way to measure co2, then by all means share it with me!


----------



## greg (Apr 29, 2012)

monk21 said:


> HI and thanks for the reply. The only thing I am dosing is flourish. Do you have something in addition to suggest?
> 
> Now, as for my co2, I don't know how trustworthy the indicator from fluval is. If you have another inexpensive and easy way to measure co2, then by all means share it with me!


Flourish is for trace elements or micronutrients. Macros on the other hand, are the main nutrients used by plants - nitrogen,phosphate and potassium. If your plants are new, they have some reserves which will keep them looking fine for a short period. However, ultimately they need nutrients to survive and flourish. You mentioned needing a cheap method for CO2, so if you're on a budget you can make your own macro fertilizer. You do this by purchasing potassium phosphate and potassium nitrate at a hydroponics store and mixing with distilled water. You can find dosing calculators to guide you online. Making your own macro will reduce your fertilizer costs from possibly $100+ per year to less than $10 per year, I would guess. If you don't want to make your own, Seachem makes macro fertilizers - you would need their nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium bottles - *AngelFins* has good pricing on Seachem products.

Regarding CO2 I was just curious about the levels since bps seems low. How much CO2 required would depend on your plant selection and more importantly your light intensity - higher light levels require more CO2. The main point is whether your plants are doing fine - and you mentioned in your first post that you do use that as a guide already. A cheap way to estimate your CO2 level is to compare your ph level when the CO2 is on during the photoperiod to your PH level right before the CO2 turns back on the next morning. In our water I believe a PH drop of around 1.0 due to CO2 corresponds to a level of about 30 ppm.


----------



## monk21 (Dec 5, 2012)

greg said:


> Flourish is for trace elements or micronutrients. Macros on the other hand, are the main nutrients used by plants - nitrogen,phosphate and potassium. If your plants are new, they have some reserves which will keep them looking fine for a short period. However, ultimately they need nutrients to survive and flourish. You mentioned needing a cheap method for CO2, so if you're on a budget you can make your own macro fertilizer. You do this by purchasing potassium phosphate and potassium nitrate at a hydroponics store and mixing with distilled water. You can find dosing calculators to guide you online. Making your own macro will reduce your fertilizer costs from possibly $100+ per year to less than $10 per year, I would guess. If you don't want to make your own, Seachem makes macro fertilizers - you would need their nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium bottles - *AngelFins* has good pricing on Seachem products.
> 
> Regarding CO2 I was just curious about the levels since bps seems low. How much CO2 required would depend on your plant selection and more importantly your light intensity - higher light levels require more CO2. The main point is whether your plants are doing fine - and you mentioned in your first post that you do use that as a guide already. A cheap way to estimate your CO2 level is to compare your ph level when the CO2 is on during the photoperiod to your PH level right before the CO2 turns back on the next morning. In our water I believe a PH drop of around 1.0 due to CO2 corresponds to a level of about 30 ppm.


After a small research buying seachem nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium will cost me
$45 for potassium a year
$18 for nitrogen
$28 for phosphorus
*If i buy the smallest bottles available in a not so cheap store.

I think it is the same case as in co2. You either go with cheaper DIY or with more expensive ready one


----------



## greg (Apr 29, 2012)

monk21 said:


> I think it is the same case as in co2. You either go with cheaper DIY or with more expensive ready one


I wouldn't necessarily agree. I have a CO2 reactor, fractionating impeller and a ceramic diffuser on my main tank along with a dual stage regulator. However, I make my own fertilizer.

Paying extra for CO2 equipment gets you a better system, whereas paying extra for prepared fertilizer buys you nothing but a bit of convenience. It does not give you a better product. Look at guys like Tom Barr on Barr Report or any of the big tanks on Planted Tank. Almost all of them use the fertilizer in powder form, either adding powder directly or mixing it with water and then adding that solution.

Anyhow, your tank looks great and for sure the Seachem fertilizers will work as well as buying the nutrients on their own. So if the cost is fine and it's what you're comfortable with, then they will work best for you. I used Seachem potassium, nitrogen and phosphorus for the first few months and its only after the costs started adding up and I became aware of the use of powders, that I made the switch.

Like you, I still use Seachem Flourish (micro) because I like the trace elements they use and the savings from making my own micro is not nearly as significant as the savings from making my own macros. Micros are also a bit more complicated because they have a short shelf-life at room temperature. So I choose to pay for the convenience - but I am not getting a better product than other hobbyists who make their own micro.


----------



## monk21 (Dec 5, 2012)

The other thing would be that I would need to learn to make my own products something that doesn't sound very easy to me. Plus I would have to find such a store nearby since I don't drive


----------



## greg (Apr 29, 2012)

Well your tank looks great and you seem keen to learn about keeping it that way, so I expect you will be successful. If you ever decide to you would like to use dry powders to save some money, send me a pm and I will be happy to help you figure out dosing for your setup. Good luck and keep us up to date with photos.


----------



## monk21 (Dec 5, 2012)

greg said:


> Well your tank looks great and you seem keen to learn about keeping it that way, so I expect you will be successful. If you ever decide to you would like to use dry powders to save some money, send me a pm and I will be happy to help you figure out dosing for your setup. Good luck and keep us up to date with photos.


Sure. I have a good experience with fish tanks and every day I learn new things. When u have some time send me a pm with any details I may need and most importantly, whetr I find this stuff!


----------



## Kimchi24 (Mar 22, 2013)

As great as fertilization is, you have to do water changes every week which I feel is too much for planted aquariums. I usually do a water change every month which would not be good if i were dosing ferts. I had sea hems ferts though and they did work fantastic. After hearing about dry ferts, the price really explains itself. Sea hem is just expensive as hell lol.


----------



## monk21 (Dec 5, 2012)

Kimchi24 said:


> As great as fertilization is, you have to do water changes every week which I feel is too much for planted aquariums. I usually do a water change every month which would not be good if i were dosing ferts. I had sea hems ferts though and they did work fantastic. After hearing about dry ferts, the price really explains itself. Sea hem is just expensive as hell lol.


wait wait. If I start dosing those macro fertilizers, I will have to do water changes every week?


----------



## FlyingHellFish (Mar 7, 2011)

With Toronto's tap water, I'm not even sure if you need to dose a lot of trace. The water report is in a pdf file on their site and I remember the levels were decent. You might be able to get away with just fish food and macro. 

A tub of macro is 6 dollars, it will last you a life time. I was curiosity about fertilizers so I brought Seachem's full line. It gave me the same results. 

So basically you can get a nice looking bottle or a tub of white powder.


----------



## monk21 (Dec 5, 2012)

Water test Update Dec 14th 2013

Ammonia = 0
Nitrites = 0
Nitrates = 20-40 (weird for a fully planted tank)
pH = 6.6

* In other news, more and more snails keep getting sucked by the filters. Also, I seem to find less and less ghost shrimps every day in my tank. I haven't seen my dwarf african frog in days and one fish was resting at the bottom of the tank not looking great.


----------



## monk21 (Dec 5, 2012)

Not much has changed in the tank since the last update. Couple of things:

1) Many small snails got caught in the intake of the filters, especially the AQ110 and they died. I put some sponge around the intake
2) The Co2 system, might start giving off too much Co2 out of nowhere. I don't know why, but probably there is something wrong with the regulator.
3) I started feeding calcium blocks to the snails. When there is food in them, all the small snails go at it like crazy. The big snails don't care about it


----------



## monk21 (Dec 5, 2012)

Updates


Today I went and replaced my probably faulty co2 cylinder and hope that everything will be better now.

Also, I bought three 250ml bottles of macros (potassium, phosphorus and nitrogen). It cost me $30. Does someone know how much it would cost me to make my own? In a 75 gallon tank for 4-6 months supply.

Lastly, I will be re-aquascaping my tank so any advice, warnings etc are most welcome.


----------



## greg (Apr 29, 2012)

monk21 said:


> Also, I bought three 250ml bottles of macros (potassium, phosphorus and nitrogen). It cost me $30. Does someone know how much it would cost me to make my own? In a 75 gallon tank for 4-6 months supply.


Yes, maybe $5.00 total. You need to buy potassium phosphate and potassium nitrate. Each will cost about $6.00 for 500g. The potassium phosphate in particular will last you years, whereas the potassium nitrate will be used more heavily, but should still last for 8 months or so.


----------



## monk21 (Dec 5, 2012)

greg said:


> Yes, maybe $5.00 total. You need to buy potassium phosphate and potassium nitrate. Each will cost about $6.00 for 500g. The potassium phosphate in particular will last you years, whereas the potassium nitrate will be used more heavily, but should still last for 8 months or so.


thanks for the info. Can you help me a bit further? I have NO knowledge of any kind of chemistry! So phosphorus is 1, nitrogen is 2 and potassium is 3. What you said is what? 2 mixtures of those 3 elements?

Also, where do I buy those, so I can make my own, from? Mind you I don't drive and I live in Richmond hill near the Richmond hill center bus station. So any central places would greatly help me (or I would be more than glad to prepare coffee from someone in here so they can come and teach me a coupe of things!)


----------



## greg (Apr 29, 2012)

*DIY Fertilization*

Here's what you can do:

First find a local hydroponics store. They should sell potassium phosphate and potassium nitrate. Buy one 500g tub of each - ie. two tubs in total. Also buy some distilled water from a grocery store.

Based on your tank size, amount of plants, lighting etc. I would do the following:

Warm up around 470ml of distilled water - 1 minute in microwave or so. Then add 12 tsp of potassium nitrate and 3 tsp of potassium phosphate. Shake well until powder has dissolved (warming up the water makes this part much easier). You should have about 500ml of finished product - your macro fertilizer.

Add 60ml per week - example 20ml three times a week or 30ml twice a week - whatever works for you.

You can adjust the dose up or down depending on how your plants are doing etc. Your water change schedule also impacts the amount you fertilize plants. The above dosing assumes you're changing 40-50% per week. If you prefer changing less water then dose a bit less fertilizer.

My dosing is roughly based off of Tom Barr's Estimative Index, and it's a guide - not an exact instruction manual. Ultimately the condition of your plants should influence your dosing amounts as you become more experienced.


----------



## monk21 (Dec 5, 2012)

Good info. Some questions though

1) Is that all the macro I need? So by buying these two I am set?
2) Is there a chance I may overdose? Either by adding too much powder in my mixture or by adding too much final product in my tank? And if yes, is it dangerous to the fish?
3) What makes so big and often water changes needed?
4) I change 25% a month (I am a believer of 33% a week but I never had any problems so I became lazy). Can I still use macros?
5) For now that I will be using the seachem macros, do I still need to make more often water changes? thanks

PS IF someone that lives in this area knows of a store, please let me know. I have no idea what these stores are and I am pretty new to Canada!


----------



## greg (Apr 29, 2012)

See the response to your points in blue



monk21 said:


> Good info. Some questions though
> 
> 1) Is that all the macro I need? So by buying these two I am set? Yes
> 2) Is there a chance I may overdose? Either by adding too much powder in my mixture or by adding too much final product in my tank? And if yes, is it dangerous to the fish? If you only change 25% water per month then TDS in your tank will rise - although quite gradually so the fish would likely be fine. BUT if you're only going to change so little water then I would start by using only half the dose I suggested.
> ...


----------



## monk21 (Dec 5, 2012)

Thanks for the info,

Some updates of the tank...

I redecorated today wich means I took out everything and replanted/ aquascaped.

What is new?

almost none of the ghost shrimps have remained. I used to have more than 20 at first, 5-6 later and only 2-3 now. My stock right now is

12 neon tetra --> 11 neon tetras (1 down)
9 rummynose tetra --> 10 rummynose tetras (wrong counting first time)
2 unidentified apistogramma --> same
5 rosy barbs --> same
6 red minor tetra --> 5 red minor (1 down)
6 glow light tetra --> 11 glow light ( 6 added and 1 down since last time)
6 lamp eye tetra --> 3 remained + 2 sick ones (eaten from infection or bites face, 1 down)
6 rasbora heteromorpha --> same
5 mystery/apple snails down to only 1 adult and 
~40 baby mystery/apple snails 
1 african dwarf frog

SO, we had some losses in the last 3 months or so but my water tests never showed anything. I guess my water was good as I didn't lose many fish. Maybe these are in the game.


----------



## monk21 (Dec 5, 2012)

Here is how the tank looks now


----------



## monk21 (Dec 5, 2012)

updates info regarding stock

11 neon tetras
6 rummynose tetra (3 dead or I didn't count correctly)
2 apistogramma 
5 rosy barbs
6 red minor tetra
8 glow light tetra (3 dead or I didn't count correctly)
2 lamp eye tetra 
6 rasbora heteromorpha
1 african dwarf frog
2 gold gourami
2 blue gourami
1 australian rainbowfish
6 black phantom tetras
6 Buenos Aires tetras
5 zebra danios
total = 69


----------



## Tropicana (Feb 15, 2009)

Your Apistogramma are 'Apistogramma cacatuoides'. Looks like the double red morph./
Nice setup and journal.


----------

