# Sump Build: Simple DIY Jig.



## fache98

Thought I would share my experience with a simple jig I created. Made adhering the glass panes to the sump easy and accurate without having to worry about the glass pane moving while it cured/skimmed over.

Materials:
2x4 
4 small bolts and nuts
4 washers
4 lock washers
4 mirror clips
GE 1 All Purpose Silicone










































































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## reefjunkie86

Great job and idea. Would you like to build a dump for me when I'm ready? Lol


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## fache98

reefjunkie86 said:


> Great job and idea. Would you like to build a dump for me when I'm ready? Lol
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Sorry! Just a DIY'r sharing some progress.. Thank you very much for the compliment. Very much appreciated!

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## Grey Legion

Oh now that is cool, since I am planning on building my own sump, this is great info. Thank you for sharing..


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## fache98

Grey Legion said:


> Oh now that is cool, since I am planning on building my own sump, this is great info. Thank you for sharing..


My pleasure


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## RealPB

Great build! and very clean! Thanks for the walkthrough. 
Do you mind telling us how much everything cost altogether?

Thanks,


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## fache98

Thanks. 

To be honest, I had most of the stuff lying around the house. The glass for the baffle cost me about $100 as I had the edges buffed and rounded. The tank is a 40g breeder I had from way back. 2x4 and mirror clips can't be much. The clean edges are thanks to green tape(hate sloppy silicone lines). Hope this helps. If you have any questions while building the sump, I'm happy to field them. 


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## Rookie2013

fache98 said:


> Thanks.
> 
> To be honest, I had most of the stuff lying around the house. The glass for the baffle cost me about $100 as I had the edges buffed and rounded. The tank is a 40g breeder I had from way back. 2x4 and mirror clips can't be much. The clean edges are thanks to green tape(hate sloppy silicone lines). Hope this helps. If you have any questions while building the sump, I'm happy to field them.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Hi Fache
just tumbled to your thread and it couldnt be a more perfect time than this.. I am in process of building a DIY 125g sump and your thread definetly helped. Where did you get your edges cut and buffed. can you post a pic with the sump in process. i saw you used GE all purpose silicone where did you get this from HD?


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## fache98

I bought the glass here but any glass shop should be able to do the same. They are located in Etobicoke. 
http://modernageglass.com/

I bought the GE Silicone from HD. Just make sure it is GE 1 All Purpose. I bought the small hand squeeze tubes as it made it easier to get in tight places. Not sure your experience level, but make sure to squeeze out all the bubbles in the silicone bead between the glass and baffles to the best of your ability. This will ensure the bead does not peel over time (hence the green tape for clean lines as you can continuously push the silicone through without making it all sloppy)

Pics are of my kitchen table glass top. The edging and polishing is the same.










Sorry, posted all the pics I have of the DIY.

Snapped this pic right now










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## Rookie2013

Thanks a lot...when you talk abt the green tape are you talking abt the painters's tape to get clean edges of silicone. Also i am not experienced at all and this will be my first project with diy sump what do you mean by air bubbles in the silicone tube. is it a good idea to squeese some silicone out before using it so the airbubbles would be gone...


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## fache98

Yes. The green painters tape. I place the tape about a 1/4 inch on either side of the Center point of the bead. If you zoom and take a close look at the sump pics at the top, you can see the lines of silicone. 

When you apply the silicone to the glass and smooth out the silicone, if you don't apply enough, you will smear the silicone leaving bubbles in the bead. If you put enough silicone or just bit more than you need, you can make sure to push the silicone between the glass and glass baffle/pane. This will leave you with a solid clean bead and the tape will keep your lines looking pro. Just don't push so hard that you move the glass, just the silicone. Remember, it won't be perfect in the first pass...you will have time to pass your fingers a few times before it begins to get tacky. If you have some spare piece of small glass or wherever you purchase give u a couple piece to practice cause it is a pain in the ass to clean if tho make a mistake. 


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## fache98

Also- I siliconed the two glass pieces for the corner box first before adhering to the tank ensuring a 90 degree. I did it two days prior to adhering to the tank. 


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## Rookie2013

fache98 said:


> Also- I siliconed the two glass pieces for the corner box first before adhering to the tank ensuring a 90 degree. I did it two days prior to adhering to the tank.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Is this the silicone you are talking about.










I am in the very early stages and still have to design my sump. I am thinking of keeping it simple with couple of overflow sox / a section that can hold my skimmer and GFO,Carbon reactors, a refugium and a return pump section. Do I need to plan anything else to it or this is it I am not sure how to decide on the baffle design and their height sizes to utilize maximum water flow. Any suggestions would help and thank you for all the information.

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## fache98

Yes, that's the one I used. 

Just make sure to consider the amount of overflow coming from your DT once you shut down your return pump. If you know that amount/calculation to ensure you never flood your sump, you should be good. I designed my sump so that none of the pumps(including skimmer) can ever go dry or to low to run. 


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## fache98

Also. My design allows me to do water changes without shutting down my skimmer. Really happy with the design. Only change would have been to make my skimmer section smaller (didn't know what skimmer I was putting in at the time) and to make the spacing between my baffles bigger from 1.5" to 2.0". For ease of cleaning. Also, if you look closely at the latest pic of my sump, in the eggcrate - I placed Carbon on the left baffle and my heaters in the second baffles (learned my lesson when I did a WC and my heater was left exposed out of the water for a couple of mins. Last time I loose a heater for that reason lol)


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## Rookie2013

fache98 said:


> Also. My design allows me to do water changes without shutting down my skimmer. Really happy with the design. Only change would have been to make my skimmer section smaller (didn't know what skimmer I was putting in at the time) and to make the spacing between my baffles bigger from 1.5" to 2.0". For ease of cleaning. Also, if you look closely at the latest pic of my sump, in the eggcrate - I placed Carbon on the left baffle and my heaters in the second baffles (learned my lesson when I did a WC and my heater was left exposed out of the water for a couple of mins. Last time I loose a heater for that reason lol)
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Awesome input yes my display is a 150 G and it usually overflows 10-15 Gallons of water when I shut off my return pump. My sump is a 125G so will definitely have lots of room to play around plus I am installing it in a basement for ease of maintenance and redundancy so I am not worried abt overflow. Thanks again

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## fache98

Happy to help. I also placed mine in the basement right beside a stack pipe and tapped into. I placed a small maxijet in the sump with a hose right into the stack for ease of WC and a hose from my skimmer to the stack as well. Has made life easier and more automated. Hope this all helps. Good luck. 


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## Rookie2013

Tht sounds good and thts exactly is my plan since I have the sink right besides where I will placing the sump. I was going to drill one of the side panels and install a bulkhead/Gatevalve to do my water change but now I will use your idea of just using a maxi jet to drain the water from the sump no need to drill it. Put the maxijet on apex and control the water changes.


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## Rookie2013

Hi Fache
i have just created a thread under General Marine Discussion forum with regards to building my sump with a rough sketch. I would appreciate if you could look into it and give me your insight. Thanks a ton in advance.


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## fache98

It looks good. I don't think you will have an issue with micro bubbles (bubble trap), just make sure to place the inlet pipes in the first chamber to go low toward the bottom (4-5" from bottom but adjust as you see fit). For pumps... look at the Jecod/Jebao DCT Marine Controllable water pump. It has 16.4 feet max head height for relatively cheap. Have heard they are pretty reliable and """CONTROLLABLE"""" lol


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## Rookie2013

fache98 said:


> It looks good. I don't think you will have an issue with micro bubbles (bubble trap), just make sure to place the inlet pipes in the first chamber to go low toward the bottom (4-5" from bottom but adjust as you see fit). For pumps... look at the Jecod/Jebao DCT Marine Controllable water pump. It has 16.4 feet max head height for relatively cheap. Have heard they are pretty reliable and """CONTROLLABLE"""" lol
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks a lot I am thinking of the reeflow barracuda/Hammerhead. I can create a manifold and use it for reactors and my fragtank. What do u think. This way one pump controls all

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## fache98

Micro bubble occur when there is too much surface splash causing micro bubbles and spilling over into the next chamber. By sending the bubbles as far down (without making additional bubbles), your allowing the bubbles to dissipate at the surface of the 1st chamber. Hope that makes sense


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## fache98

Ah ok. Don't have any experience on that pump. If you look at my plumbing, I have two pumps, one to the DT and the other to my manifold to my chambers to ensure enough pressure. No difference from what I can see if the pressure is achieved either way


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## Rookie2013

fache98 said:


> Micro bubble occur when there is too much surface splash causing micro bubbles and spilling over into the next chamber. By sending the bubbles as far down (without making additional bubbles), your allowing the bubbles to dissipate at the surface of the 1st chamber. Hope that makes sense
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yes tht totally makes sense and yes I will have the overflow pipes going down as u suggested 4" above bottom

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## Rookie2013

Opps sorry fache i accidentaly posted it on your thread. I will move my post to my thread and would appreciate if we could communicate there. dont want to hijack your thread...


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