# Checked out the LFS for substrate today - this is what is available there



## HOWsMom (Jan 3, 2012)

I haven't found a pool supply place yet to check out the pool filter sand.
Does anyone have a picture - I'd like to see what it looks like before I spend any money on it.

My LFS has :

CaribSea "Super Natural" Premium Aquarium Substrate. It's like a black sand., looks nice. Would it compact too much ?
Red Sea Plant Success Flora Base. This looks like little rusty coloured spheres. I loved the look of it. How does it work ? Does it hold up well.
SeaChem Flourite - it's the red one.
Aquarium gravel - just the normal stuff, all kinds of colours and sizes.

I only need enough for 2x 5.5 gallon *planted *tanks, and maybe a handful of little pots at this point. What would be my best investment for the long-term ?


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## Riceburner (Mar 14, 2008)

Depends on your use. Lots of gravel, etc for sale on this site by members....me included. Do you want gravel or for plants?


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## HOWsMom (Jan 3, 2012)

Riceburner said:


> Do you want gravel or for plants?


I'm sorry - I forgot to put that in the OP.

I am planning on planting the two 5.5 g tanks, and have been told that regular aquarium gravel (which I have plenty of around here already) isn't the best for plants.


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## solarz (Aug 31, 2010)

If you're starting out on planted tanks, I recommend the Flourite substrate. If you plan on keeping Cherry Shrimps (and why wouldn't you?), you should get Flourite Black Sand. You could also get inert black sand as a top layer.

If you have rooting plants, you don't need to worry about substrate compacting.


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## HOWsMom (Jan 3, 2012)

Okay - now the hard questions 

*WHY *is Flourite better than the others ?


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## Will (Jul 24, 2008)

Where are you located? In Burlington I have tons of both Silica sand and Fluorite Mix to sell/trade.
Also have lots of plants to sell.


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## HOWsMom (Jan 3, 2012)

Will said:


> Where are you located? In Burlington I have both Silica sand and Fluorite Mix to sell/trade.


Durham region. Burlington is a bit too much of a drive - I don't plan on crossing TO until September !


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## solarz (Aug 31, 2010)

HOWsMom said:


> Okay - now the hard questions
> 
> *WHY *is Flourite better than the others ?


I don't know about the "Red Sea" plant substrate, but compared to inert substrates, Flourite has a high CEC and contains lots of trace minerals needed by plants.

http://www.seachem.com/Products/product_pages/FlouriteBlackSand.html


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## HOWsMom (Jan 3, 2012)

I've seen the term "CEC" before, but have yet to figure out exactly what it means. I can break it down - carbon exchange capacity - but I don't understand it.


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## Will (Jul 24, 2008)

Honestly, substrate is just one of the components that a plant can desire. High tech tanks usually adress all of them, lowlight and low tech tanks usually have some or most of them covered in moderate amounts. *Fertile substrate, efficient light, fertalised water column, and Co2/Carbon injection.*

That said I have used, and am using: 

 Fluorite mixed with Turface (Mediumlight)
 Fluorite Black Sand (Highlight)
 Fluorite Black Sand mixed with Eco Complete (Highlight)
 Eco complete (Highlight)
 Inert Black Silica Sand (Lowlight)
All with great success.


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## solarz (Aug 31, 2010)

HOWsMom said:


> I've seen the term "CEC" before, but have yet to figure out exactly what it means. I can break it down - carbon exchange capacity - but I don't understand it.


It's CATION exchange capacity. You can google it for details, but roughly it means the ability of the substrate to retain and make available various minerals (i.e. iron) for the plant.

I feel that flourite is easy to work with because I don't need to fertilize the water column. Of course, I'm coming from a low tech point of view. Going high tech is another matter.


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## HOWsMom (Jan 3, 2012)

Thank you Will. I am aware that it's just one part, no worries there.

Here's a little more break down for you guys (both tanks are only 5.5g, so inherently lowish light regardless of wpg) :

Tank 1 : 2x15w fluorescent bulbs @ 6500k
Tank 2 : 1x15w florescent bulb @ 6500k

I have Flourish, Flourish Excel, and Flourish Iron here. I may add root tabs or the Trace if needed.

No current plans on adding CO2 due to the low lighting, but have eyed up the small Fluval pressurized CO2 systems at Big Als recently.


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## HOWsMom (Jan 3, 2012)

solarz said:


> It's CATION exchange capacity. You can google it for details, but roughly it means the ability of the substrate to retain and make available various minerals (i.e. iron) for the plant.
> 
> I feel that flourite is easy to work with because I don't need to fertilize the water column. Of course, I'm coming from a low tech point of view. Going high tech is another matter.


See - I told you I didn't know what I was talking about ! 
Should have googled before I typed.


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## Will (Jul 24, 2008)

HOWsMom said:


> Thank you Will. I am aware that it's just one part, no worries there.
> 
> Here's a little more break down for you guys (both tanks are only 5.5g, so inherently lowish light regardless of wpg) :
> 
> ...


Here is my own video on "How to DIY co2" you may enjoy it if you don't already know a lot about Sugar/Yeast co2 methods. There's a TON more info to be known about co2 and diy co2 that isnt covered in the video, but who wants to watch a half hour video of it.

And as far as I'm concerned, and without knowing the bulb type, you are definetly in the medium to high light level over those tanks. Sounds like you are going to use screw in compact fluorescents.

HERE is my 10G low light tank with only ~6W of LED lighting over it.


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## df001 (Nov 13, 2007)

HOWsMom said:


> I've seen the term "CEC" before, but have yet to figure out exactly what it means. I can break it down - carbon exchange capacity - but I don't understand it.


Cation Exchange Capacity - the ability of the soil/substrate to hold nutrients.

in a nutshell - some soils are better than others in adsorbing ions, a cation = positively charged ion.

so a substrate that has a high CEC means it contains lots of negatively charged particles - so it will bind positively charged (cations) and hold them.

what that means in practical terms for us - it will pull nutrients out of the water column - adsorb them - making them available for plant roots.

hope that helps


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## HOWsMom (Jan 3, 2012)

Thank you - I like concise answers


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## solarz (Aug 31, 2010)

HOWsMom said:


> Thank you Will. I am aware that it's just one part, no worries there.
> 
> Here's a little more break down for you guys (both tanks are only 5.5g, so inherently lowish light regardless of wpg) :
> 
> ...


You definitely need CO2 for those tanks, otherwise you'll end up with algae problems.


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