# Sticky  So you want to keep a Nano tank?



## ameekplec.

As I get more feedback on the thread I'll modify, add and delete things, and hopefully we'll have a comprehensive review of keeping a little piece of reef at home.

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Keeping a successful Nano saltwater tank has all the same components as keeping a successful freshwater tank - water changes, pristine water conditions and routine maintenance. Keep these up and you'll enjoy success at every stage of development of your tank!

I really think these three tips can lead to the most enjoyment of your new salt water tank:

1. Do it right the first time! It's easy to not research and get things you can't keep and equipment that's sub-par, but ultimately the thing will die, or you'll have to buy another piece of equipment to replace the crappier earlier one. Make sure you do your research ahead of time, and know what you're getting. And make sure to get the right equipment suited to your needs, but keep in mind that you get what you pay for - cheap things are cheap for a reason, so proceed with caution. A lot of people end up paying 2 - 3 times more for a piece of equipment simply because they bought crappy intermediates in between. If you can get that really good light fixture, get it instead of getting the crappy one cause it was cheap. Buy good things (new or used) now, and you won't waste your money buying it and a crappy thing before it.
*
1. What do I need to get started?*

The list of equipment needed for a Nano is pretty basic:
a) tank
b) water movement device (powerheads, hang on back (HOB - aquaclears, etc) filters, etc)
c) lighting
d) live rock and sand
e) salt water and fresh water
f) heater/chiller 
g) test kits and supplementing
h) nutrient export (Refugiums, skimmers, DSBs and chemical media) and sumps

*a) The tank*

There are several options you have for the tank. There are many shapes and sizes to choose from which you can choose to suit your space and aesthetic liking. Traditional glass tanks are easy to come by, and standard sizes make getting equipment for them relatively simple.

You can also choose an All in one (AIO) tank, which has all the required hardware (pumps, lights) built into the tank as a single unit. There are several populat makers such as Biocubes (Oceanic), Nanocubes (JBJ), Cadlights, etc. Each has different designs, which we won't get into here, but the basic principle is the same - they have a large display area in front, separated in the back where there are any number of 'chambers' each with a specific purpose. Many choose these tanks as they come with pretty much everything you need and are considered "plug and play".

Either way, make sure that you are getting a tank that is either new or has not had any copper treatments done in the tank. This will be important if you intend to house corals or invertebrates, as they are sensitive to copper and any copper left over in the tank can have consequences later.

You also have the option having a tank custom fabricated. There are several makers of glass and acrylic tanks. These can be made to fit any space and in any dimension. Generally a costlier option, but the customization in materials (standard glass, Starfire (low iron, clearer glass), acrylic) and dimensions makes it an option to consider also.

The size and style of tank you choose will ultimately affect what equipment you buy. So think of a tank you want (but don't get stuck on it!) and we'll keep going.

*b) Water movement*

The ocean experiences tremendous amounts of water movement, and since we are trying to keep creatures of the ocean, we must provide them with water movement accordingly.

There are several options you have when choosing water movement devices.

Powerheads are popular as they can be placed anywhere in the tank and provide plenty of movement. You can get inexpensive powerheads (aqua clears, maxijets, etc) to much more complex and expensive controllable units like Tunzes and Vortechs. But for now we'll keep it simple and use maxijets.

You generally want 10x - 20x the turnover of the main tank. So if we have a 20g tank, you want at _the minimum_ 200 - 400 gallons per hour (GPH) of turnover.

At this point let's talk flow patterns. A powerhead generally outputs a laminar (straight) flow in one direction. In the ocean, the current flows in all sorts of directions, back and fourth. While not completely necessary, it's nice to have random flow, and this can be accomplished by devices such as the Hydor flow deflector, which turns and changes the direction of flow from a powerhead from laminar to random turbulent (not straight) flow.
It's desirable to have random flow - two powerheads with flow opposing or crossing each other can be used to accomplish the same thing too.

There are also controllable powerheads (Tunze, Korallia, Vortech) that are able to scale up and down how much water they pump to create random flow patterns also - although these powerheads tend to be much more expensive.

You also want to make sure that you have sufficient water movement on the surface of the water for effective gaseous exchange.

You can also use a hang on back (HOB) filter to create water flow in the tank. Additionally, these devices can be used to store media such as carbon, phosphate remover, or create a HOB refugium (more on these later in section h).

Water movement is one of the most important aspects of keeping a successful reef tank, and so cannot be overlooked; very good water movement will be rewarded by a cleaner tank as more detrius (dirt/crud) doesn't settle out and can be removed, corals respond better, and there is better gas exchange.

*c) Lighting*

In the tropics where corals come from the sun shines very brightly. So just as we need flow, we need to provide the illumination to allow them to grow.

So why do corals need light? Many types of corals have symbiotic relationships with zooanthellae (zoo-anne-thell-ee); the coral provides a home for the zooanthellae, and in turn the zooanthellae provide the coral with nutrients. How? Well the zooanthellae are photosynthetic, meaning they can make food from light and nutrients in the water. In turn, the zooanthellae provide the coral with extra food that the zooanthellae does not use, thus feeding the coral. In return, the coral gives the zooanthellae a place to live.

There are three commonly available technologies to the salt water hobby right now: Power compact fluorescent bulbs (PC), fluorescent (normal output (NO), high output T5s (HO) and very high output (T8 and T12, VHO)) and metal halide (MH). A fourth technology rapidly gaining a foothold is light emitting diode (LED) technology.

The choice of lighting comes down to what you want to keep: if you are aiming for a fish only system, then any lights are usable, but people generally go with PC or NO florescent as they do not consume as much energy and are sufficient for just viewing fish.

With low light corals such as mushrooms, some zoas, leathers and some LPS (large polyp scleractinian or stony) corals, PC and NO lights will be sufficient. Higher light corals such as SPS (Small-polyped scleractinian or stony corals) will require much more intense lighting so T5HO or MH lights are generally required.

Generally, when considering lighting it's important to consider not only the intensity (wattage) of light, but also the coverage. T5 lamps will illuminate more evenly due to the shape of the tube. MH lights will be more intense over a smaller area depending on the reflector you use.

The reflector you use will also determine to a large extent the effectiveness of your lighting. T5HO tubes have up three times more PAR when used with quality reflectors versus none. Again, this all comes down to research you do on particular fixtures and bulb arrays.

Let's talk light for a moment. It's often a confuing subject, so a little discussion is in order.
1. PAR - Photosynthetically active radiation.
As we mentioned earlier, corals contain zooanthellae which are photosynthetic - they use light to make food. Therefore the light we give them must support photosynthesis. PAR is a measure of light output that measures the light that is useful to photosynthesis. Often bulb outputs will be given in lumens - perceived brightness. PAR is a better measure of light intensity as it gives a measure that the corals actually care about and can use.

2. Colour temperature. Most Marine aquarium bulbs start at a kelvin (K) rating of 10 000K and go up to 22 000K. The higher the Kelvin rating, the bluer the colour. Blue bulbs (higher K values) penetrates the water better, but has lower PAR. Lower K values 6700K - 10 000K) are yellow - white, and have better PAR values. The trade off is that corals do not appear as vibrant. The actinic (blue) light will also excite fluorescent pigments in the corals and make them glow - many people like to accentuate the fluorescence with actinic light supplementation.
Choices are usually made (for MH) by colour of the bulb; some people like it bluer than others - usually you can find a bulb you like, or you can supplement your MH with PC/T5s/LEDs to get that extra actinic supplementation.
For T5HOs, there are many different bulbs (including more red/purple bulbs) and so colour balance can be tweaked much better. There are lots of different bulb combination and arrangements out there - so it is a matter of trial and error to find one that you like, but there are many suggestions out there.


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## ameekplec.

*c) Lighting (continued) *

An additional factor to consider is the depth of your tank. Obviously the deeper it is the stronger the light must be to penetrate the water, and so plans must be made accordingly.

Each type of lighting has it's own advantges/disadvantages:
PC: 
pros: takes up a small space, readily available bulbs, generally cheap
cons: not very intense lighting, bulb choices very limited

T5HO: 
Pros: many bulb choices available, can grow almost any types of coral given sufficient number of tubes used, doesn't transfer heat to aquarium, even distribution of light.
cons: lack of shimmer effect seen with MH

MH: 
pros: intense light, many bulb choices available
cons: heat issues, bulbs must be changed more frequently, actinic supplementation may be required.

LED:
pros: can control colour temp, high intensity, no heat issues, low energy consumption.
cons: cost - very very expensive.

*d) live rock and sand*

The heart of modern Marine aquaria is the advent of the use of live rock for biological filtration in tanks. It also works overtime and provides shelter for fish and invertebrates, as well as structure to attach corals and provide homes for creatures in your tank.

Now what makes live rock live? First, let's talk about the rock itself. Live rock is usually composed of dead coral skeletons that form the base of coral reefs and other areas. So it tends to be light and porous (holey). The porosity of live rock makes it a perfect place for bacteria to colonize - this is the bioloigcal filter in your aquarium. This live rock must be cycled (like in fresh water tanks) before you are ready to stock your aquarium.
Also, Live rock provides areas for other creatures (detrivores) to colonize, as well as macroalgaes and other creatures affectionately known as "hitch hikers" - there are many resources available to identify them.

The general recommendation is to have 1.5 - 2 lbs of live rock (LR) per gallon of aquarium volume. This is to provide adequate volume of rock to filter your aquarium.

Live rock should be arranged so that there can be flow through all areas of th live rock as to provide nutrients and prevent dead spots within the rock structure. Besides that, it's up to you how you want your LR to be structured, so have fun with it, but keep in mind the needs of what you want to put into your tank (ie fish that hide a lot, corals that need higher ligt/lower light, etc).

Live sand is also added to the tank to allow for colonization by bacteria and detrivores. While most opt for a shallow sand bed (SSB) of 0.5 - 1.5", some opt for a deep sand bed (DSB, see nutrient export section), and others no sand bed (or bare-bottom). Most like a shallow sand bed as it is aesthetically pleasing. The maintenance required of it is to stir the sand bed to remove detrius every week or so. 
With a bare bottom tank, there is a need for high flow along the bottom of the tank to keep detrius suspended until it can be removed usually by mechanical filtration.

The type of sand you use is up to you too. Many like oolithic sugar-sized sand, while others opt for a coarser crushed coral. It depends on aesthetics, but also on what you keep. Some fish need coarse bits in the substrate (ie Jawfish), so that must be considered before selecting a sandbed.

There are also many colours available and it also depends on your aesthetics - white, black and pink are options commonly available.

*e) salt water and fresh water*

Well to have a marine aquarium, we need salt water. In many areas, natural salt water is availbale for purchase. It's from the ocean, usually filtered and sterilized before sale. But here in the GTA, we don't have that option. That's why we make our own SW.

For the water we use, it is generally suggested that we use reverse-osmosis/deionized (RO/DI) water. RO/DI is a process where we remove the mineral and ionic content of the water so that we're left with essentially pure water. The reason for this is to eliminate phosphates, silicates and other harmful or non-desireable compounds from our source water. The reason for this is to discourage algae growth (thrives on phosphates, nitrates and silicates), as well the fact that metallic ions (copper, cheifly) will kill invertebrates and corals and harm reef fish. So to eliminate the uncertainty of regualr tap water, we use an RO/DI filter to purify the water.
Many people run SW tanks with regualr tap water and have sucess. Generally this is not recommended in nano tanks as things can build up and have greater concequences due to the small volumes of water involved.

RO/DI filters can be expensive pieces of equipment to buy, but they are worth it in the long run. You can usually also buy RO/DI water from your LFS. Premixed SW can usually be bought too.

Now back to SW making. Now that we have our RO/DI water, we need salt. There are many different kinds out there, and ll have their benefits and drawbacks. Research plays a key here too, as not all salt mixes are created equal. 
To make our SW, we need a mixing container, a heater and a powerhead is recommended. The powerhead will mix and oxygenate the water, while the heater heats the water to the correct temperature. We also need a device to measure the salinity (amount of salt) in the water. Two devices that are generally used are hydrometers and refractometers.

Hydrometers work by floating a bulb (usually glass) or using a swing arm that floats to a certain point when in a liquid. Your hydrometer will tell you when your salt water is at the correct density. The density is determined by the salinity - the saltier it is, the denser the liquid will be and vice versa. 
A refractometer works on the principle that light passing through a liquid refracts (changes angle) depending on the density of the liquid. So again, the saltier the water (denser) the more it will refract (angle) the light. Refractometers are generally regarded as being more precise and easier to get an accurate reading over hydrometers. 
Either way, when reading salinity, it is important to make sure that you are reading at 25C (77 F), as the temperature of the water affects it's density and therefore the salinity.

For reef tanks, a specific gravity (salinity) of 1.025 is recommended (35.5 ppt at 25C). It is important to maintain proper salinity for the optimal health of your corals, inverts and fish - too low and they will become stressed, and too high and the same.

In all aquariums, you have evaporative loss of water. This is pure water that is lost. In marine aquaria, this causes an increase in the salinity (less water and the same amount of salt means that it is more concentrated). To counteract this, we must add back in water. But this water must not have any salt in it, or else we are not relieving the problem. Therefore we must add RO/DI water back in to replace water that has been lost. Topping up must be done as often as it is required - large swings in salinity can harm your tank, so it's best to do it as frequently as your tank requires.

This topping up can also be done automatically by an automatic top off unit - they employ sensors to sense the water level (float or optical switches) that activate a pump to pump water into your tank.

One might be tempted to combat the evaporative loss by sealing of the aquarium with a top of some sort - tis is bad as it will inhibit gas exchange, and your tank will suffocate.

*f) heater/chiller*

Because we are generally keeping tropical species, we must use heaters to heat our aquariums. There are a variety of ways to heat an aquarium, but most opt for simple drop in heaters. The temperature generally recommended for reef and salt water aquariums is between 76 F and 82F.
If you are keeping a reef tank, then you desire for a narrower temperature range, generally 78 F to 81F. Outside of these temperatures (especially above), we can start to run into problems.
Increases in temperature beyond 81 F are generally attributable to motors of powerheads and pumps adding heat to the tank, and lighting. A primary drawback of metal halide lighting (discussed earlier) is the heat generated. If the water heats up beyond the desired range, livestock will quickly be negatively affected. Also, with higher temperatures, water holds less Oxygen, so oxygenation also becomes a concern.

To combat rises in temperature, chillers and fans are used.
Chillers generally use some kind of heat exchanger (there are a variety of units employing different methods available) to cool the water passing through or around it. Essentially, hot water in, cool water out. These usually use some kind of temperature controller to control when the chiller is on and off, determined by user-determined set points.
Fans are also a popular method for cooling tanks - fans pointed at or across the tank's waters surface. They take advantage of evaporative cooling - the water blowing across the surface of the tank will cause evaporation of the tank water. Because evaporation involves a change in the physical state of water (liquid to gas) it requires energy - and it gets this energy from the heat in the tank water. So by causing evaporation, we cool the tank.
Just be warned that using fans will greatly increase your need to top-up as you will be accelerating evaporation many-fold.

For those without chillers or fans, some people also use temerature sensors that turn off the lights when the tank lights get to a certain temperature, but this is hardly a long term solution. It's good final back up, but by no means a solution.


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## ameekplec.

*g) test kits h) Nutrient export (Refugiums, skimmers, DSBs and chemical media)*

*g) test kits and supplementation (dosing, reactors, etc)*

Because we are housing life in a closed environment, we must constantly be testing to see that we are not building up excess pollutants or lacking necessary nutrients. We use test kits to measure and take action against certain things. There are various makers - API, hagen, SeaChem are considered 'basic', where as test kits made by Elos, Salifert, DD (Merck), LaMotte, Fauna Marin are considered to be more accurate (better reading) or have better resolution (finer gradations ie measuring by 1s instead of 10s).

Just some terminology to get us started:
colorimetric - uses a colour change in a solution to measure a concentration. Usually we see how strong a colour is determine how much (concentration) there is.
titration point - generally this is when a colour indicating solution changes from one colour to another to indicate the concentration.

pH: generally a colorimetric test based on drops added to a liquid. Can also be measured with a pH electrode. You want it between 7.8 and 8.1 in a healthy reef tank.
temp: glass thermometer, stick on patch, electrode. Generally around 78 - 81F
Ammonia: colorimetric test. 0 ppm in a healthy tank.
Nitrite: colorimetric test. 0 ppm in a healthy tank.
Nitrate: colorimetric test. Can also be done by electrode (very expensive). 5 ppm and below.
phosphate: colorimetric test. (see Photometer below) 0.02 ppm and below.
Alkalinity (hardness): titration point, colorimetric. Between 6 dKh and 10 dKh (2.1 and 3.6 meq).
Calcium: titration point, colorimetric. Especially important with hard corals; idea range is 420 to 440 ppm.

Generally you want to have pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate handy as if you have a problem, they will be the first place to look. Also, having test kits will be essential when determining when your tank has finished cycling.

*h) Nutrient export (Refugiums, skimmers, DSBs and chemical media)*

In marine aquaria, the build up of nutrients, cheifly phosphates, nitrates and other dissolved organics is a great concern as the increased levels of these compounds can be harmful to marine organisms as well as promote nuiscance algae growth. By removing the excess nutrients, we are able to keep cleaner water and better conditions for the health of our reefs.

A protein skimmer is a device that uses foam fractionation to remove larger dissolved organics (like dead cells, bacteria, mulm, etc) from the water column. It works by creating tiny bubbles that attract these particles out of the water which then stick to the surface of the bubbles and are carried up a column and into a collection cup to be disposed of later.

While a protein skimmer is not a necessary device it will help remove a lot of excess nutrients on a nano tank - that being said, for small tanks (less than 20 - 30g) just performing regular water changes (10 - 20% a week) should more than suffice.

Refugiums are often used for two purposes in aquaria; 1. To provide a haven for pods and other macroscopic life to develop without predation, which will later then 'flow' into the display to feed fish, inverts and corals, and 2. to grow macroalgae to provide nutrient export. The growing macroalgae uses nitrates and phosphates to grow, thus locking them into the plant, and you periodically harvest the algae to fully remove those excess nutrients from the tank. For this to occur, there must be sufficient flow through the refugium, and a source of light for the plant to grow. The most popular macro to use is chaetomorpha, as it is robust, grows quickly and does not die off easily.

In nano tanks, it is very easy to set up a refugium. You generally have two options in standard tanks: 1. an in-tank refugium, 2. A HOB refugium.
With an in-tank refugium, you can use a soapdish (a plastic one with suction cups to attach inside the aquarium) to hold onto the chaeto and let it grow in the aquarium. This is a good option if you do not have the space for a HOB refugium. As well, you do not need a second set of lights as it will grow under the light in your display tank.
However, a better option is a HOB refugium. There are several commercial versions, as well as DIY versions converting HOB filters into refugiums, but the concept is the same. In a separate chamber (the HOB) the chaeto is lit to allow it to grow and also culture pods. Most prefer to have a reverse light cycle to the DT, meaning that when the tank lights are off, the refugium is on. This helps to maintain the pH of the aquaria as during the night there is no photosynthesis occurring in the DT, so the CO2 increases in the water and as a result pH drops. By having the refugium light on while the DT is dark, you avoid these pH swings - another benefit to the HOB refugium.
Also, many people choose to hide equipment like probes and heaters in their HOB refugiums to keep the display less cluttered with equipment, much like how sumps are used.

In AIO style tanks, a single or mutliple chambers in the back can be converted to a refugium, being illuminated from behind the tank. Usually, part of the backing is scraped off one chamber, and chaeto is placed inside and allowed to grow.

While the selection of macroalgaes to grow in your refugium is fairly wide, two species that are generally seen are chaetomorpha and calupera. Chaeto grows robustly under fair amounts of light, and is stable in the aquarium. Removal is fairly easy - just pluck it and any bits out.
Calupera can also be used as nutrient control, but it has some drawbacks. The main one being that it has a natural cycle where it becomes "sexual" and reproduces in the home aquaria. Part of this cycle is the degradation of he plant - and as a result it releases all the stored nutrients in the plant back into the aquaria. This can be avoided by a 24hour photoperiod. The second drawback to calupera is that once established in the refugium (or display) it is very difficult to remove as all the parts of the rhizome must be removed in order to eradicate it completely. These factors lead most into choosing chaetomorpha for their refugiums.

While not as applicable in smaller nano tanks, the use of a deep sand bed (DSB) can also be useful. In deep sand beds (generally 5 - 12" deep) the bottom layers of the sand bed do not get very well oxygenated. As a result denitrifying bacteria, which live in hypoxic or anerobic (low oxygen) environments can flourish. By having a deep bed of sand, you can reduce nitrates in a tank very effectively. But in nano tanks it would look silly to have 5" of sand in a tank that's only 10 - 12" tall - so generally they are not used.

Lastly, chemical filtration. The two that are most applicable to nano tanks are: i) activated carbon and ii) Phosphate removal media.
i) Activated carbon - Why is it called activated? It's process to be extremely porous and the hugely increased surface area allows it to be much more efficient at absorption of chemicals. Carbon can help to reduce chemicals in your tank (in the water or released by stressed inhabitants), and also help with water clarity by absorption of compounds that discolour your water.
ii) Phosphate removal media works by chemically binding phosphates in the water. There are two general types: alumina based and iron (ferric) based media. They are genrally expensive, but a small amount will last a long time as not much is needed.

To run both these types of media, you can use a media bag (a very fine mesh bag) in a HOB filter, or get a media reactor which will fluidize (suspend in the water column) your media making it more efficient as it has more contact with the water.


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## KhuliLoachFan

Another sticky thread for nano fish and invert live-stock ideas would be great.


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## ameekplec.

I'll work on one in the upcoming days as I've recently got a bunch of questions like "Well, once I have a tank, what can I keep?"

Watch for it in the upcoming days


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## aln

will there be a thread on cycling?  just wondering


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## Kweli

I would love to know about some of the upkeep costs for a nano tank (30-20G)

IE, how much would i be paying for testing equipment, and any products to fix water levels..... How much for food (for fish and coral)... 

Im interested in getting into saltwater but have no clue of the costs associated with upkeep


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## KhuliLoachFan

My hunch is that it's a lot. And thus I have not tried marine yet.

W


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## Abner

KhuliLoachFan said:


> My hunch is that it's a lot. And thus I have not tried marine yet.
> 
> W


Anything can be affordable if you have the patience. I started my tank with only the things i needed and did a lot of research along the way. Get the tank and stand with a filter...buy the rock or sand next when you can. then get the lights next if you didn't buy a kit(going to most likely have to replace those that came in the kit anyway). Should have decided by now if the focus is on fish or corals by then. Next is your skimmer and then start adding your stock. I have a 30 gallon with a skimmer and AC50 only running carbon, quite a bit of live rock, about 7 fishes 4 inches or less. Trust me it's as affordable as you want it to be.


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## KhuliLoachFan

I guess the Corals and lighting route seems expensive to me, even in the Nano world.

But if I went with FOWLR system (no corals), I could probably go with much less expensive lighting.

W


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## Kweli

I understand that anything is affordable... but its hard to convince my wife this... she wants numbers.. lol


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## KhuliLoachFan

Is there anybody out there who has run a saltwater nano tank at under $50 a month in ongoing operational costs? Let's say, and under $500 to get all your equipment and starter livestock? Or are we looking at more like $100/month operating cost, and $1000 to start up? Because for me, that's where the line is.



W


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## Kweli

KhuliLoachFan said:


> Is there anybody out there who has run a saltwater nano tank at under $50 a month in ongoing operational costs? Let's say, and under $500 to get all your equipment and starter livestock? Or are we looking at more like $100/month operating cost, and $1000 to start up? Because for me, that's where the line is.


Looks like we are in the same boat... Although 50/month maintenance seems to much for me....


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## KhuliLoachFan

I would jump in if a used nano setup from someone I knew came up for around $500, and I could take over doing whatever they were doing. 

I would have to shut down a few freshwater tanks to make up the budget difference per month. Most of my freshwater tanks cost me $2 to $10 a month to operate, and that's mostly just dechlorinator, food, carbon, filter floss, and a few plant additives.  

W


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## ameekplec.

A Nano tank doesn't cost all that much if you get things used and don't go overboard (like some people who's names will not be mentioned).

Take this tank for example:









It's a nano (10g) I set up for my sister.

New items (~$90):

$15 - Salt (Instant ocean 50g bag)
$25 - Tank (standard 10g)
$15 - Lid
$10 - ~10 lbs oolithic aragonite sand
$10 - AC surface skimmer (don't need this though)
$15 - Hydor flow rotating attachment

Used/scavenged items (~$190):
$20 - AC70 'sumpfugium'
$15 - 50w heater
$50 - Current USA 2x18w T5HO fixture
$80 - 4 stage RO/DI 
$5 - Analog timer
$5 - power bar
$15 - Maxijet 600

Live things:
$40 - ~10 lbs LR (at average market price)
$100 - coral frags to start filling it out 

So all said and done, it's about $300 to set up a small 10g tank. I'd guess to do a 20g standard tank you might be looking at about $100 more for a powerhead and bigger lights and bigger tank.

It's really not that expensive - the month to month upkeep consists of water changes (cost of salt per water change is a few cents) and a bit of food costs. And power and water consumption, but on a small reef it's not that much.

Now my 20g reef/10g sump is an entirely different beast


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## conix67

ameekplec. said:


> .. don't go overboard (like some people who's names will not be mentioned)...l
> 
> Now my 20g reef/10g sump is an entirely different beast


Hmm.. I think I know who you're talking about 

Anyway, when I had my nano running, monthly cost wasn't that high. Compared to freshwater tanks, the only additional cost was food and salt mix. For a nano, a pail of salt mix lasts years, and food isn't all that bad either, if feeding just few fishes.

It is a lot of work though.. not money. Initial startup cost is definitely higher than freshwater, if you get all equipment and livestock together.

My biggest monthly expense was - unnecessary additives and impulsive purchase of corals..


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## Flazky

Hmm I think you should add magnesium to your list of things to test for.


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## Kweli

Are there online canadian dealers where alot of this stuff can be purchased?


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## ameekplec.

Yes, plenty of them.

Many of them offer free shipping over a certain amount which is nice too. And order before July 1st from BC and beat the HST (and the PST - you only get dinged for GST for stuff from BC). Or order from Qc and olny get charged GST also.

Right now I'm ordering all my stuff from Mathieu at GoReef.com, but in the past I've also ordered from J+L aquatics (BC), Oceanaquatics (BC), as well as local outfits like Petsandponds.com. Also, there are excellent LFS' in the GTA - Sea U Marine is awesome, as is Menagerie (although their drygoods are much more limited).

My advice is to shop around a bit


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## explor3r

It does not have to be expensive, u can always look around on different web sites where u can get things used in good condition and cheap..
I have been running a 20g reef, the most expensive thing was the light and i look at it as an investment.
Just be pacient and u dont need to have everything at once, cycle the tank properly which probably is the most important step. I own 3- 20gallon tanks, currently im not using one of them, u can contact me and i can give u a good deal in the tank and light.


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## Byronicle

are there any LFS and websites you would recommend checking out for livestock, inverts and equipment?

ps. this write up really helped, thinking of just doing a 10 gallon for now as till i get the knack for it


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## sig

Thanks ameekplec.

very good info and easy explanaiton

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## Hoyuen

i've been running purigen+rowaphos+filter pad+a bag of crushed rock in my aquaclear 20 since my tank started... 5 months?
tank is 6.6 gallon.

I want to try and switch to either chaeto or add the carbon. Should I risk tilting the balance of the tank? I have quite a high bio load (i change 10% water about every 3 days)

can i just stuff the chaeto behind a rock (not so noticable area) would it spread and seed all over my tank? I already got bits of them growing out my live rock and snail shell lol which I trim once in a while.


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## Kweli

When i let cheato loose in my tank it was about a month before the mess was over. I had it floating around everywhere


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## Cypher

Yeah, cheato in the display tank is a huge mistake... really messy, bits and pieces of it all over occasionally clogging up your pumps or poking at your soft corals. Try other macros. 

*shameless plug: I aqua culture some of the more decorative types of macro algae. Hoyuen, you can take a look when you drop by to pick up your frags.


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## iBetta

im sorry for reviving this thread. i've been thinking of trying the saltwater field with a nano like a 7g . only corals though for now 

i'm still so confused and nervous about starting one. 

for example, what happens when there is a power outage? would the corals survive?
also, do you need to feed the corals? since i assume they do need nutrients....or is all they need the nutrients from their symbionts? (those anne-lee-..something )

and what types of corals would be easiest for a a beginner like myself?

thanks for your time everyone!

iBetta


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## JulieFish

*Nano Nemo Fish only with live rock setup*

A good friend of mine Mike was looking at my tank last week and asked me today for advice about keeping SW. He has no experience keeping fish, and said he wants 4 clownfish like mine in a tank that is about 16x16 inches. I told him to just get two clowns, that will be enough, and sometimes more than two will fight in a small tank. I then sent him this email, which I thought since I took the time to write it, I may as well make it available here as well for anyone that might benefit. So this set up is assuming no corals because Mike said that he didn't want corals, just clownfish. That is why I have excluded a protein skimmer and haven't included special lights.

Email sent to Mike:
I was thinking a bit more about your idea to keep clowns and I thought I'd put together a little list of must-haves to keep them healthy for you...and prices you can expect

Required
1. tank (at least 10 gallons for 2 clownfish, what are the dimentions of the one that Mark is offering?)
2. lights (basic - whatever comes with tank is fine if no corals)
3. lid on tank (to protect light from splashes and prevent fish from jumping out and to cut down on evaporation)
4. powerhead (I like koralia nano but there are several other brands that would work fine, retails for about $25)
5. heater (keep it at 79 degrees F or so, retails for about $30)
6. substrate (the sand on the bottom. I use aragonite and I like it. I have some leftover that you can have for free if you want it)
7. Live rock (this is absolutely essential. It is the filter in saltwater tanks. I can help you find some good stuff if you want, you'll want 5-15 pounds depending on how full you want the tank to look - my tank is quite full. retails for $5-$10 per pound or you can get it from classifieds like kijiji for as low as $2 per pound. You'll probably need to spend $20-$50 on live rock, but there are cheaper shortcuts if you are interested)
8. Salt (must use a marine mix. Instant ocean is cheapest and is fine for fish-only. Lots of other brands would be fine too. Medium bag retails $20)
9. Hydrometer or refractometer (to measure salinity - you can have my old hydrometer for free if you want it)
10. Fish food (New life spectrum brand small pellets is the best)
11. Fish! (start with 2, I like getting tank raised - $50ish total)
12. Bucket to hold and mix tank water (just get a new 5 gallon home depot bucket with lid for $5 or whatever)
13. Thermometer ($5)
14. Algae scraper for the glass (old plastic credit card or old blockbuster card is fine)
15. Waste water bucket (whatever you have around the house)
16. syphon hose ($10)
17. Water conditioner / de-chlorinator ($15 for a medium sized container)

Recommended
16. Hang-on-back filter (something like an aquaclear 50 or 70 would be good ($50-$70 I think). Fill it with more live rock and some activated carbon if you want, NOT foam in saltwater)
17. Powerbar (you'll probably need it as there are at least 3-4 things to plug in)
18. Old toothbrush for scrubbing algae
19. Timer for lights (clownfish can get a bit freaked out by an irregular lighting schedule, $5-10 home depot or crappy tire or wherever)

Set up Steps:

Collect all the parts and put it together. 
rinse sand and add it to 1-2 inches deep layer. 
mix salt in bucket and get it to the right salinity (1.020-1.025 for fish only). Add to the tank.
plug in heater, powerhead and Hang-on-back filter if using
let it sit for 1-2 days, make sure salinity and temperature are correct and stable. Don't fuss about bubbles sticking to everything.
add live rock. Depending on source you may have to leave it like this for up to a month. If you chose carefully, just a week. add a hunk of raw shrimp.
bring a sample of water to the store where you want to buy fish and ask them to check for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. If ammonia and nitrite are anything other than zero, then your tank is not yet ready and fish will die. Come back another day and try again. Nitrate should be above zero, but below 20. If these parameters are all good, add two fish at the same time.

Maintenance:

Daily
1. Feed fish once a day only what they eat right there in front of you. Watch them eat and if they miss any pellets, you have fed too much. Uneaten food lying around will harm the fish.
2. Top up evaporated water at least once a week, or daily if you want. Use freshwater (no salt) with a few drops of water conditioner to dechlorinate. Make sure it's about the same temperature as the tank.

Weekly:
1. once a week, use your syphon hose to remove about a gallon of water, into the wastewater bucket. Easiest way to get a syphon going is to put one end of the hose in front of the powerhead. If you see algae that looks unsightly (will happen many times in the first year), use this time to scrub or scrape it off, then syphon it out. Algae will not hurt the fish, it is just unsightly, and easier to keep under control if you try to keep on top of it.
2. Once you have removed 1 gallon of water, refill with one gallon of new water, that you pre-mixed the week before. This must be the correct salinity. 
3. Mix up a gallon of saltwater to use for next week's water change (a squirt of water conditioner to declorinate and some salt, make sure it is fully dissolved before checking salinity).

I think that's just about everything. If you want more details about anything, just ask. I love new set-ups so I'm really happy to help. I also enjoy sourcing stuff so if you need any help buying, let me know and I will hook you up.

That's the end of my email. Just to re-iterate, this was directed at my good friend... I like to be helpful to you guys too... but maybe not quite*this* helpful with the freebees and stuff.

Let me know if you catch anything important I missed ... I know I glossed over the nitrogen cycle completely but I figure he'll ask if he's curious.


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## Fishyfishyfishy

AWESOME instructions!


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## sig

what a job you done, but your statement # 8 about salt is totally wrong.

http://www.gtaaquaria.com/forum/showthread.php?t=30133

Poll on salt use from AP
View Poll Results: What kind of Salt Mix do you currently use?
This poll is from 2010

Brightwell Neomarine 0 0%
CoraLife 10 2.65%
D-D H2Ocean 54 14.29%
*Instant Ocean 191 50.53%*
Red Sea 5 1.32%
Red Sea Coral Pro 16 4.23%
Reef Crystals 41 10.85%
Reefer's Best 3 0.79%
SeaChem Marine Salt 2 0.53%
SeaChem Reef Salt 11 2.91%
Tropic Marin 7 1.85%
tropic Marin Pro Reef 28 7.41%
Tunze Reef Salt 0 0%
Other 10 2.65%

from the ReefCentral

What brand of sea salt mix do you use?

*Instant Ocean (7287)
45%*

Tropic Marin (1224)
7%

hW Marinemix (166)
1%

Reef Crystals (1706)
10%

Red Sea (1427)
8%

Kent (1093)
6%

Coralife (1072)
6%

Sea Chem (334)
2%

Coral Sea (214)
1%

Other (1624)
10%

Buyer's guide to marine salt

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## htjunkie

I know this thread is few months old now but reading JulieFish post about clownfish with live rock, that's exactly what I have in mind for my desktop setup!

I currently have a 6-gallon open top Fluval Chi setup with a few guppies, I just started so I'm learning all the new stuff as far as how to treat the water properly, cycling the tank. So far it seems pretty good and everytime I walk into any aquarium shop, can't stop drooling about the saltwater fish and coral. I understand coral is quite more involved so if anything I want to start a little basic. Tank size would be about 12 gallon so nothing too big for the desk.

I guess mixing the right amount of salt into water is not too difficult? What would be a monthly running cost like with say a 12-gallon tank, 2 clownfish, and live rock for now. My guess is, aside from the initial spending on equipment and setup, it can't be that much. Maybe some electricity for the heater and all, but it can't be that much I hope not.

Your feedback would be greatly appreciated. I'm in Oakville/Burlington area, any shops I should be aware of?


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## ameekplec.

Fr monthly costs besides electricity, you're looking at salt and water. And food. And the money you'll eventually spend on feeding the rest of the addiction!

But seriously, I would estimate the costs to be less than $20/month.


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## manmadecorals

Hey guys, I've been wanting to start a nano reef/coral tank as well but reading all of this sounds extremely complicated and it gets somewhat confusing. Can anyone help me out by taking pictures of their Nano setup and just explain to me what you did to set it up?


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## thmh

This was my nano set up before i upgraded to my 90g, its a 10g with a simple center overflow and a 10g sump. With a DIY LED lights and a crappy airstone skimmer.


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## manmadecorals

Thanks! What kinda of tank is that?


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## thmh

manhtu said:


> Thanks! What kinda of tank is that?


its a custom 10G starphire tank i got from alex aka explor3r, i actually still have this tank/sump in my garage if you like i can sell it to you.


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## manmadecorals

Sent you a PM, Thanks!


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## ameekplec.

manhtu said:


> Hey guys, I've been wanting to start a nano reef/coral tank as well but reading all of this sounds extremely complicated and it gets somewhat confusing. Can anyone help me out by taking pictures of their Nano setup and just explain to me what you did to set it up?


If you check out some of the nano reef builds from the 2011 contest and the current contest you'll get a lot of good info on how to set up a great nano reef.


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## manmadecorals

I just tried googling and it nothing came up... is there a name i should search up?


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## sig

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=75

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## Kooka

I would start with something bigger than a 20 gallon. Go for at least a 40 gallon breeder, or a 75  You'd be able to keep 4 small fish MAX in a 20 gallon, and you'll be limited to a few invertebrates as well. Not to mention maintaining stable water parameters in a small tank is much more difficult (ie: topping off every day to maintain salinity, etc...) If you start out small, you'll end up regretting you didn't go bigger from the start. 

You WILL see a significant drain of money from your wallet though compared to the freshwater side of the hobby. Livestock is much more expensive, not to mention the equipment you will need. I would say that the biggest expense of course would be initial setup. If you do go with a larger system (40gal +) try to buy the majority of your equipment used from the classifieds. That should save you some money, but you will still need to factor in overall maintenance costs (salt, RO water system (arguable but I believe it is a requirement), filter media, chemicals, T5HO bulbs, electricity, etc... Before you get started though, read up and research as much as you can, there are many excellent sources of info on the net. If you need any pointers, send me a pm.


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## ChiSinh

Yes your right 10G is on the small side. I just setup a new nano for my office and 20G is better but with any small tank it always harder to keep sable water conditions.


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