# 80/20 stand designs



## deeznutz (Aug 21, 2013)

Anyone have any experience with this stuff. I know I've seen people us it before but I'm looking for first hand experience and cost. Looking at building a stand for a frag tank 48x24x36 tall.

thanks

-deez


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## nc208082 (Jun 27, 2013)

I don't have first hand experience but studied it a lot because was contemplating for my last Stand.

Cheapest supplier I found and they are located in barrie Ontario so you can arrange local pickup and save a ton on shipping.

https://snbinc.ca/store/index.php?index

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk


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## deeznutz (Aug 21, 2013)

Thanks for the link.


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## tom g (Jul 8, 2009)

*stand*

hey there u cant go wrong with the stand .. how big are u thinking 
theres a fine line when it comes to that if u are going small size then its doable , large size it gets pricey,.i am sure you know that dan at Canada corals built a few for his frag tank set up .pretty sexy looking .they have tonnes of options. theres a few guys and gals on here who have done it I thought about it but the price got to me .. that's just me ...
look forward to seeing pics of your idea .
cheers 
tom


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## deeznutz (Aug 21, 2013)

I'm going to be building 75 g frag tank. 48x24x12.
I've thought about wood again, but its still a bit early to be pulling out the miter saw and wanted to do something a bit different this time around. What has started as a simple piggy back frag tank has turned into a full blown stand alone tank. lol

Gotta do it right, right?

I'll be starting a build thread when I get all the equipment in order.

-deez


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## tom g (Jul 8, 2009)

*stand*

well u have some time .. price out the 80 /20 and all its accessories and see if its in your budget ... by that time the weather should be starting to get better and u can start a wood stand ...

cheers 
tom


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## deeznutz (Aug 21, 2013)

Lol, I don't doubt you in the cost, but let me see for myself


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## fury165 (Aug 21, 2010)

Great stuff, for that size tank i'd say the 1010 profile will be more than sufficient and you can get the suppliers to review your requirements and see if the deflection rate would be in spec for that size profile. The 1010 profile isn't so bad price wise, but the connectors and fittings is where things get expensive. I've used it for a number and things and really think the price is justified if you want something that can be changed or upgraded down the line.

If you look at the frag tank in my profile you can see the possibilities. Keep in mind that the extruded aluminum in that tank is Bosch Rexroth brand, and imho just like 80/20..although 80/20 has tons more parts to build virtually anything you need (NASA even built a camera rig to go into outer space a few years ago with off the shelf 80/20 parts).
This is where I buy my 80/20 stuff in Mississauga http://store.cpiautomation.com

HTH


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## kookie_guy (Oct 15, 2014)

You also need to decide on things like door/panel design. If you intend to use the slot in the extrusion to hold the panels, or if you want the doors inset into the frame like on Roger's build, then you skip the gussets and need fasteners to go through the ends of the extrusion. Not sure about what 8020 has for connector options, so what I say above is strictly with respect to bosch.


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## kookie_guy (Oct 15, 2014)

Here's a basic design...using 45 profile bosch. You can see where I used the gussets up top and bottom, those are fine, they don't get in the way of anything. But depending on how you affix doors and panels, will determine how that top and bottom assembly gets attached to the leg.


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## deeznutz (Aug 21, 2013)

No doors, just a stand and sump. Frag tank in basement. Bare bones setup 

That rendering is perfect! What would that cost ballpark?


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## kookie_guy (Oct 15, 2014)

deeznutz said:


> No doors, just a stand and sump. Frag tank in basement. Bare bones setup
> 
> That rendering is perfect! What would that cost ballpark?


Have to call my sales rep tomorrow afternoon. Advanced motion and controls in Barrie is the supplier.


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## wtac (Mar 17, 2006)

CPI Automation mayber closer (403/401 area).

Just send in the cut list, fastener choices and any drilled holes for butt joints (account fastener count for that too.) and they will send you a quote. You can either have it delivered or pick-up.

You can send a dimensional drawing with load specifics as well. Make sure that you state what it is for and you need corrosion resistant fasteners.

If you pick-up, grab an 80/20 catalogue


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## kookie_guy (Oct 15, 2014)

I deal exclusively with Bosch, that's why you'd be looking at Advanced Motion in Barrie. I can get corporate pricing extended to me for personal use, just have to go pick it up in Barrie or pay the shipping, which is not cheap as they are 6m lengths. They will cut them in half for free to save on shipping, but still not cheap. They do also offer a cut service, don't recall what they charge per cut tho. Will find out when I call my guy later.


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## kookie_guy (Oct 15, 2014)

deeznutz said:


> What would that cost ballpark?


3842352061 LEVELING FOOT D44, M12X85 4 6.6092 26.44
3842528718 T-HEAD BOLT M8X25 50 0.6882 34.41
3842345081 M8 FLANGE NUT 50 0.1984 9.92
3842523558 45X45 GUSSET 24 2.6102 62.64
3842992425 45MM X 45MM EXTRUSION 2 117.9073 235.81
12 cuts based on cut list provided 1 30.0000 30.00

$399.22 + $51.90 = $451.12 tax in.


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## advanced reef aquatics (Apr 20, 2009)

I like to looks of this, I'm getting quotes of $1500 for wood cabinet for new build.


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## advanced reef aquatics (Apr 20, 2009)

I like to looks of this, I'm getting quotes of $1500 for wood cabinet for new build. Do they do cutting ?
Basically give them dims of tank and pick up and just assemble at home is what I would like.


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## kookie_guy (Oct 15, 2014)

There's a big difference between a wood cabinet and this. The quoted price above is basically for a structure. No doors, no panel covers, nothing. Just an industrial stand. If you want to start adding doors and panels you'll easily get to $1000.

Remember, with wood there is A LOT of processing. Lumber cost is also on the rise. They're not using 2x4s, they are using actual solid hardwood. It's funny because I do woodworking as a hobby, and people ask me to quote stuff all the time. When I tell them their jaw hits the floor. They don't realize that something simple still has $100 worth of lumber and hardware to go with it, that's not even me touching anything. I'm not gonna donate 10 hours of my time for free. I charge a very modest $30/hour for my work.

But to answer your question, the quote is from a supplier of the raw goods. Not sure if the cuts are made by them, or by Bosch and then shipped to them cut. When we use the stuff we order full sticks and cut/machine it all in house. They couldn't care less what's going on it. You provide a cut list, they cut everything to the list.


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## advanced reef aquatics (Apr 20, 2009)

I understand, but $400 in materials somehow doesn't mean $2500 for a cabinet.
That materials x 6, little excessive. But when they are doing 50k kitchens, an aquarium cabinet not important, I would likely do the same.


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## kookie_guy (Oct 15, 2014)

advanced reef aquatics said:


> I understand, but $400 in materials somehow doesn't mean $2500 for a cabinet.
> That materials x 6, little excessive. But when they are doing 50k kitchens, an aquarium cabinet not important, I would likely do the same.


You have at least 10 hours of labour to build it. Shop rate is probably $60-$80/hour. Kitchens are a license to print money, they have equipment that's already set up to run the specific parts so it doesn't take as long. With an aquarium stand everything is custom it's not like they have patterns set up for a common stand. A lot more equipment set up and there are fees for that too


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## TBemba (Jan 11, 2010)

Looks like some places powder coat the stuff in red. Well I saw parts on one site. Black or White maybe more ascetically pleasing. Do you know if they powder coat after the cuts or before?


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## advanced reef aquatics (Apr 20, 2009)

From someone in the industry maybe the price can be justified. I wont pay it.
But to each their own.
Cheers


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## kookie_guy (Oct 15, 2014)

TBemba said:


> Looks like some places powder coat the stuff in red. Well I saw parts on one site. Black or White maybe more ascetically pleasing. Do you know if they powder coat after the cuts or before?


Powdercoat should happen AFTER the cuts. Personally, I would anodize, not powdercoat. Maintains the brushed metal look, and if you overtighten a connector you don't risk cracking the powdercoat.


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## giermoivi (Feb 15, 2016)

*custom welded steel stand*

Why not get a custom welded steel stand then powder coat?

This is what i did, Got the metal cut at Mr.Metal, then brought to welder to pay labor rate. Stands a beast 3/4 square tube mid thickness and cost around 200$ (Stand and Powder paint only) (used plywood and marine paint to frame it after.)


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## tom g (Jul 8, 2009)

*Welded stand*

I am sure your stand looks amazing ..would love to see pics... always great for ideas ....
But.... have u seen how sexy the 80/20 looks ...boshe as well.. something about the futuristic look .. all the poss that are poss .. and as fury mentioned when u upgrade u can always re use the main pieces ....
Cheers 
Tom


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## giermoivi (Feb 15, 2016)

This is old pic. But you can get the idea. Used steel pipe to hang the lights. Got hydras now vs par bulbs finally







alum looks high Teck for sure. I went large tube so it looks just as manly. Not like the DinKy 75gal stands from pet store


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