# ZETLIGHT Aquarium LED light ZP3200 144W



## disman_ca

I'm looking to change my tank around and more importantly upgrade my light fixture. I would like to explore the LED options but its difficult to figure out what I want or need. I found this ZETLIGHT Aquarium LED light fixture that seems to have what I think is good http://zetlight.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=107&Itemid=107

I would like the fixture to provide enough light for soft corals and some display macro algae. It should also have a night feature and possibly a dimmer (not needed). From what I can tell so far this fixture would do it. I like the idea of it being programmable and offer night time lighting as well.

Does anyone think I could attempt to build one for cheaper?


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## altcharacter

Zetlight 30" LED
ZA3601
56W
3880 Lumens
White LED: 42
Blue LED: 28
So 70 LED's/56W = 0.8W each
$380

RapidLED DIY setup
14 Royal Blue 
12 Blue
10 White
3 Meanwell dimmable drivers
20" heatsink
all optics for led's included
5500 lumens (approximate)
108w
$320

So, you decide


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## fesso clown

I am not really that handy, in hindsight I wish I would have bought a non-diy LED set-up... my build works but looks like poop. I am going to rebuild it eventually.

I went with Aquastyle, much cheaper than Rapid, not Cree brand LEDs, they use Bridgelux LEDs. You can opt for Meanwell drivers (I did) for a little extra. Fast service and delivery. Add $20ish for customs. I am happy with the kit I got from them except that when I set it up I nuked(bleached) all my corals... (too powerful and too close to the waterline to start, my mistake) 
http://www.aquastyleonline.com/categories/DIY-LED-Lighting/DIY-Dimmable-LED-Kits/

They are cheap kits and if you're good at building stuff I think the quality of the parts are just fine. If I were to have spent the extra $$on Cree LEDs I'd be more pissed that that I just didn't spend a little more for a IA SOL or something like that Zetlight. 
I think the ratio of blue to white on that Zetlight would be good for a macro heavy tank BTW.


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## altcharacter

yeah 42 whites and 28 blues doesn't give you much for the blue effect unfortunately.


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## disman_ca

Yeah I'm concerned about not enough blue/red type colours which is one of the benefits of a DIY. If I make it myself, I will have the option of swapping out LEDs if I don't like the setup. The manufactured device would provide a turnkey solution out of box but I'm stuck with what it is built with. Man it's hard to choose.


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## violet

I just ordered aquallumination sol super blue leds from modularled.ca, they from alberta so you only pay one tax, big saving there. The first one got here in 7 days.. Waiting for the second module, ordered it later, should be here tomorrow.


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## disman_ca

violet said:


> I just ordered aquallumination sol super blue leds from modularled.ca, they from alberta so you only pay one tax, big saving there. The first one got here in 7 days.. Waiting for the second module, ordered it later, should be here tomorrow.


How does it perform? The price is fairly high for such a compact design. It's 24 LEDs in a small case so I'm curious about the lens and how the disperse the light evenly.


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## fesso clown

http://gtaaquaria.com/forum/showthread.php?t=34422
Here's an excuse to visit Alex at Frag Cave, you'll see the AI sols in action and some beautiful reasonably priced frags:
If you like the performance of the light you should scoop one up!

Hint: As someone else mentioned bring your wife, bringing my wife to see Alex's set-up brought her totally on side with my obsession/hobby.


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## disman_ca

I saw his post and don't need to be tempted more. As for my wife going with me, she likes saltwater items, just not the cost that follows them. I haven't decide yet as the AI fixtures seem to be Cadillac prices but not sure if I would be really buying a Buick.


fesso clown said:


> http://gtaaquaria.com/forum/showthread.php?t=34422
> Here's an excuse to visit Alex at Frag Cave, you'll see the AI sols in action and some beautiful reasonably priced frags:
> If you like the performance of the light you should scoop one up!
> 
> Hint: As someone else mentioned bring your wife, bringing my wife to see Alex's set-up brought her totally on side with my obsession/hobby.


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## WiseGuyPhil

If you choose the LED route AI Sols are probably the most popular choice as they are extremely well made as well as upgradable. The optics are fantastic (most important part) and if you take a visit to Alex at Fragcave you will see how great they are.If the cost is the only deterrent then here is some data to support your choice as well as make it an easy sell to the Mrs.

If you were to go a MH 250w DE pendant (assuming you can get the equipment for under $150) and run this for 8 hours a day plus replace the bulb every year it would cost you:

250(watts) x 2920 (8 hrs x 365) / 1000 (conversion) x 0.10 ( $0.10 kWh) = $219 + $50-100 (per bulb) 

Assuming you don’t have the equipment your cost would be approx. $469 on the high end after the first year. If you go for the SOL here is what it would cost on a brand new fixture.

$399.99 AI Sol
$79.99 Controller
$23.95 Tax
= $502.94 (free shipping)

75 x 2920 / 1000 x 0.10 = $21.90

So you would be paying $524.84 after the first year.

The table below shows a comparison over the span of 3 years and you can use it depending on the fixture.

250MH	Ai Sol
Year 1	$469.00	$524.84
Year 2	$688.00	$546.74
Year 3	$907.00	$568.64


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## WiseGuyPhil

Granted there are other LED options and you can easily find less expensive manufacturers however I find that the real difference with many fixtures is its controller, optics, and ability to upgrade.


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## disman_ca

Yes you are right about the optics and controller. It would be nice to have control over the optics and change them if/when I choose. As for the controller, its another $80 or so above the cost of a SOL fixture. I understand the point of modules but it seems hard to justify the cost of an AI SOL right now. I'm still new to the hobby and the costs are already pretty high for start up. On the flip side I can continue to spend money on replacement T5 bulbs and better fixtures or just invest once for the same money.


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## altcharacter

There's also something so cool about the ability to change the spectrum and intensity with the controller. The power comes on and starts at 10% and thru the day the spectrum changes to daylight and then back down. Very good for the corals and the tank in general

I'm running T5's so when they turn on....they really turn on....BOOOM!!! All the corals hide for a few seconds and then figure out it's day time. Kinda harsh but hay, it's cheap.


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## disman_ca

Yeah I hate turning the lights on in the morning too. I think I'm moving closer to the LEDs just got to figure out what I want withing a $400 max budget.


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## WiseGuyPhil

I completely understand where your coming from which is why I think its great to have these forums.

The great thing about this hobby is the older technologies (T5's, VHO, MH) are proven technologies. Sometimes is better to continue spending money on T5's then bridging in the new era stuff for aquariums because LED are changing so often. The other companies like Bridgelux/Elipstar who are making reef capable LEDs at a fraction of the cost are improving their optics 10 fold. As they are new to the aquarium world, I will will be testing them for months before I even consider replacing my MH lightning on my DT which is why I suggested in favour the SOLs because of their testing and results.

Another thing is to decide what type of setup that your are going on your tank in the future. Many LED users will say how well their SPS grows like crazy and are content with the colours of the corals. However in the SPS world especially in Europe its suggested that the T5's are the way to go because they have more control over the colours without having to build their own DIY LED setup.

In the end its all relative to whether or not your feel its the right time to invest in LEDs or take your reliable/affordable T5s and continue to run that setup and still see great results.



disman_ca said:


> Yes you are right about the optics and controller. It would be nice to have control over the optics and change them if/when I choose. As for the controller, its another $80 or so above the cost of a SOL fixture. I understand the point of modules but it seems hard to justify the cost of an AI SOL right now. I'm still new to the hobby and the costs are already pretty high for start up. On the flip side I can continue to spend money on replacement T5 bulbs and better fixtures or just invest once for the same money.


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## goffebeans

wiseguyphil said:


> If you were to go a MH 250w DE pendant (assuming you can get the equipment for under $150) and run this for 8 hours a day plus replace the bulb every year it would cost you:
> 
> 250(watts) x 2920 (8 hrs x 365) / 1000 (conversion) x 0.10 ( $0.10 kWh) = $219 + $50-100 (per bulb)
> 
> Assuming you don't have the equipment your cost would be approx. $469 on the high end after the first year. If you go for the SOL here is what it would cost on a brand new fixture.
> 
> $399.99 AI Sol
> $79.99 Controller
> $23.95 Tax
> = $502.94 (free shipping)
> 
> 75 x 2920 / 1000 x 0.10 = $21.90
> 
> So you would be paying $524.84 after the first year.
> 
> The table below shows a comparison over the span of 3 years and you can use it depending on the fixture.
> 
> 250MH	Ai Sol
> Year 1	$469.00	$524.84
> Year 2	$688.00	$546.74
> Year 3	$907.00	$568.64


Costs seems a bit off.
Equipment costs
MH 150.00 
LED 399.99 + 79.99 + tax = 542.38

Cost per year
MH $73.00 + Bulb $100 LED $21.90

250MH	Ai Sol
Year 1	$323.00	$542.38
Year 2	$496.00	$564.28
Year 3	$669.00	$586.18

So it takes about 2.5 years for the cost to even out. The only difference is that MH / T5s are a mature product, where as LEDs are still evolving. There's the high risk that in those 2.5 years your LEDs will become outdated.

I personally don't like to bother with these yearly comparisons because I seriously doubt that the majority of hobbyist will even reach or keep their equipment for 3 years. People are always changing and upgrading their equipment/tanks.


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## WiseGuyPhil

Cost will be a little off but not by that much. Equipment can always be found second hand but the conversion for electricity is accurate based on a $0.10 kWh.

I would agree that additional equipment does change quite off often such as skimmers and pumps however I have always believed that a tank and lightning is an "investment." People who often change their tanks fequently have never really let their tank mature. My 150 gal has been setup for over a year and its still maturing. It amazing the differences that you see.


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## disman_ca

What about controller for DIY? Are there onese that can match or complete against the AI controler?


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## altcharacter

http://www.rapidled.com/ddc-01-pwm-controller/
From what i've read, you can also use the reefkeeper controller to dim LED's
http://www.digitalaquatics.com/saltwater/ALC


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## disman_ca

I think that tank gods have spoken. I came home to find my Corelife T5 fixture died, no life left in the ballast. Thanks for the controller link as I didn't see it there. Now it seems the fork in the road is becoming clearer and I'm going to have to choose eventually.


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## oyf709

altcharacter said:


> Zetlight 30" LED
> ZA3601
> 56W
> 3880 Lumens
> White LED: 42
> Blue LED: 28
> So 70 LED's/56W = 0.8W each
> $380
> 
> RapidLED DIY setup
> 14 Royal Blue
> 12 Blue
> 10 White
> 3 Meanwell dimmable drivers
> 20" heatsink
> all optics for led's included
> 5500 lumens (approximate)
> 108w
> $320
> 
> So, you decide


I have been searching for people on commenting Zetlight and came across the post so I signed up to just give my 0.02 to this. The zetlight light you post wasn't even the ZP3200 spec.

The true spec of ZP3200 is
24x 3w CREE/Bridgelux LED 12000K White
24x 3w CREE/Bridgelux Blue LED

The LUX reading is 5000 on the box, but the PAR reading at 27" deep direct under is 293 or 921 at surface

I donno how much it is in Toronto to have someone selling Zetlight, but I just sold 4 of this unit for $330 each in Vancouver so cost wise is really depends on who is selling you.

They also has couple newer version of the pro. One of them put 4 violet LED instead of blue LED which will give over all PAR reading.

and the other one has 2x 35w White LED instead of 24x 3w white. for deeper tank rated at 1.5m or 5 feet deep.

As far as for the rapidLED, I baught a set as well, but at the end of the day, I found it is really not saving me a huge amount at all.

The kit itself seems very good deal such as the 24 Solderless LED Retrofit Kit only cost $180. However, once you start building and the final cost could be a lot higher.Think about the extra stuff you are getting, like heatsinks which can easily cost extra $30-$40, cooling fan is another $3-$4 each at minimum and you probly need 2 of these small fans or a larger one which might be $6-$8 each. After all these settle, you will find another issue. Because all the drier has its own power cord, just use this 24 LED set for example, itself has 2 power cord already, and if you count the power cord for the fan in it, it prety much take over half of your power bar.. I set mine up, feel proud but not really happy with the result. Unless you are one of those extreem handyman can tweak with power cord to combine them or somehow build a custom made alluminum case for the light. For the same cost of the set you get for the retrofit could end up cost more than buying a already made product.

don't forget this is the 24 LED kit I was talking about so if you use the same amount of LED for Zetlight to compare, it is the ZP2500 72w light which selling here in BC for about $250.00.

I also want to make a point when making comparison between MH and LEDs.
If you only comparing the light itself, all the calculation seems right and taking about 2 and half year to even the cost sounds not worth it to use LED instead of MH. However a huge factor was not mentioned here. "Heat"

The main disadvantage is the heat comes out from your MH, maybe TO's summer not as hot as BC, but most of the time I believe you will need to some how lower the temperature during summer. How much is the chiller? How much will the chiller use during the hot summer? Those all adds up both initial cost and on going electric bill.

Again I am not trying to make anyone upset, it is just if we want to compare the facts, I want to see all the facts are out there.

Here is a pic I took for my monti cap under the ZP3200 for about 3months now


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## altcharacter

Welcome to the forums!

I find it funny that you talk about the lights when you're a re-seller of them. Of course you're going to be biased towards them or else you would lose money. I have seen your Kijiji and Craigslist ads and the information I gave was from the website and nowhere else like a "box" or something. 

You say that they use Cree LED's but nowhere on the website do they advertise that and if they do, I would like to see what type. Since you're a re-seller could you take a picture of the unit so we could see that they are truely Cree's
Thanks!


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## oyf709

I am not here to sell the light at all, if you take it that way that is fine. 
You can call it biased point of view but I fully understand the rule of every forume including my own BCA and Canreef, I don't think it is different here.

I don't think when I point out when you made a zetlight Aqua comparison to the initial post for the Zetlight pro is fair. Nor that I think making a point between MH and the LED is wrong.

On top of it, all the info I got is from manufactor so since I am not here to sell the product. Reader can belive either way, I am just pointing out, DIY is not always thecheapest way, there are other option out there, for people that is reading magazines and going to their LFS often can easily find out how many brand of LED apears every month and the cost of them are all very similar to the rapidLED's cost. Maybe you can point out which part of my comment was wrong?


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## altcharacter

Thanks for the info dude! I appreciate your opinion on the matter but we're talking about a light that has different characteristics. It's like saying your Honda is pretty much the same as a Ferrari. Of course they'll get you from A to B but it's how they do it of course.

Since you said you sell these, and that you are a retailer of this product, that you know they are Cree LED's. So please, take a picture of the LED so we know that what you are saying is true. That's all i'm asking.


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## oyf709

No you are right, Honda is not Ferrari, and I took my light apart and I don't see the actual CREE icon like average CREE will has nor I can see the bridgelux serial code. Maybe I am wrong and I will bring that up to my supplier to have them clarify and I will make changes to my claim accordingly. However, it doesn't change my point on few things,
1) Honda is not Ferrari but not every person will need to drive a Ferrari. We all know one of the most popular LED out there is Radion but it cost almost 3 to 4 times the regular no-name brand LED. Just like the Ferrari of LED. However is that really everyone need to use those extra features comes with the light?
I am not speaking on behalf of zetlight, the only reason brought to my attention was goggle search got the zetlight tittle and I am just interest in what was being said. 
2) I would rather believe in what the light itself is capable can do, I did bring the light for the lux reading myself to one of my friend local and the reading is correct, I am planning to buy a PAR meter myself to make sure I have the right PAR reading as well. You can call me naive for believing a Chinese company's words for telling me what is made of. I trust my own result a lot more. 

The reason why I am very passion about this topic is because for a average Joe like me will never able to afford 3 of those Radion light to light up my 4 feet SPS tank while supporting a family of 5 with 3 kids. Is that means I should just give up on the hobby? I love to have a piece of ocean in my living room or even in my bedroom. I had Metal Halide for over 8 years until 3 months ago I went to China for a trip and came across the Zetlight pro. I was afraid just like any of us here in Canada would have ,the fear of "Made-in-China" products. But I decide to give it a try as it cost me about $300 CAD each. I came back to Vancouver and talked to someone I know in LFS, and they told me if I need to import these in Canada, I will need to sell them at least $500-$600 to make a profit and I refused to do it. My point is hope these brand name company would stop making Ferrari but also make something that less fancy and more affordable when they feels the pressure from other smaller brands. 

I would like to declare again I am not here to sell or promote the brand. I am just one of those people has experiences with both rapid LED and also zetlight. I think my point about Rapid LED is very valid and is something every person hoping to go semi-dyi need to know as well. I call it semi because it is kind of half done other than putting them together.

Also the more important part of my post was the comparison between LED and MH savings.

Again, I am a victim of heat from MH and I know someone out there had the same sad story just like I had. When someone choosing what light they are getting, I think the first question is what type rather than what brand.


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## altcharacter

Gotcha

So no picture....


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## oyf709

altcharacter said:


> Gotcha
> 
> So no picture....


LOL you keep pushing the picture when I already said there is no idication the LED is made by CREE but if you really want it, here it is









I got you now, your point is not to point out Where my comment on rapid LED is wrong , I see how it goes =p


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## oyf709

oh I just got told those are bridgelux chip, so whatever you think it is


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## altcharacter

Thanks for the picture dude! Like they say, a picture is worth a thousand words right?!?!

From what I can see they're using bridgelux chips but the company doesn't make them anymore since they've gone to higher output arrays now. Not to say that's good or bad but they just don't make this chip anymore, it's been discontinued. They probably got them for a sweet deal though!

I know you were talking about MH vs LED but since this thread was about the Zetlight we can talk about that, since you gave us the picture (and thanks again!)

From what you were saying, the box says 5000 lumens. and with an array of 24 LED's that makes each LED giving off an average of 208 lumens.

This is just my opinion, but is it worth it to buy an older tech light? With all the new tech coming out wouldn't you rather spend your money on newer tech like the Cree XM-L that pumps out 270 Lumens @ 700mA? 24 x 270 = 6480 lumens. Which means you'll be getting more light for the same amount of power right?
Also, the XM-L can be pumped up to 3A if you had the means to cool it and would give you a total of 21,000 lumens....not to say anyone would do that. But you could.

Like I said this is just my opinion but for now, even with the AI sol's and the Vertex units, It's almost worth it just to build your own because you know what's going into it and you know you're getting superior technology. 

But if you're into paying a little more money for older tech then by all means go right ahead.


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## disman_ca

Good debate and great info for a newbie of LED tech. Thanks.


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## oyf709

altcharacter said:


> Thanks for the picture dude! Like they say, a picture is worth a thousand words right?!?!
> 
> From what I can see they're using bridgelux chips but the company doesn't make them anymore since they've gone to higher output arrays now. Not to say that's good or bad but they just don't make this chip anymore, it's been discontinued. They probably got them for a sweet deal though!
> 
> I know you were talking about MH vs LED but since this thread was about the Zetlight we can talk about that, since you gave us the picture (and thanks again!)
> 
> From what you were saying, the box says 5000 lumens. and with an array of 24 LED's that makes each LED giving off an average of 208 lumens.
> 
> This is just my opinion, but is it worth it to buy an older tech light? With all the new tech coming out wouldn't you rather spend your money on newer tech like the Cree XM-L that pumps out 270 Lumens @ 700mA? 24 x 270 = 6480 lumens. Which means you'll be getting more light for the same amount of power right?
> Also, the XM-L can be pumped up to 3A if you had the means to cool it and would give you a total of 21,000 lumens....not to say anyone would do that. But you could.
> 
> Like I said this is just my opinion but for now, even with the AI sol's and the Vertex units, It's almost worth it just to build your own because you know what's going into it and you know you're getting superior technology.
> 
> But if you're into paying a little more money for older tech then by all means go right ahead.


You are perfectly correct on Cree vs brigelux. CREE will always gives much higher LUX which means it will always penetrate deeper tank than any light made by brigelux chip. I understand your point about how much lux some light from AI or DIY CREE could possibly gives you. However, in my opinion, when someone using a 2 to 3 feet tank, it woldn't make a huge differences as the bottom of the tank will get enough PAR for any coral that is being kept. If you do a research on brigelux vs cree , you probly will see tons post on how CREE users usually won't crank up the power to 100% most of the time simply just because the light is too strong in lumens and it could give the coral at top of the tank "sun burn". As far as the reason I put something about MH debate into my original post is simply because I read some replies to the post was related to MH. Maybe I shouldn't just quoted your post cuz I kinda reply to 3 different ppl at the same time.


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