# Help Please



## Shoryureppa (Jul 1, 2011)

I'm not sure if this is a right section for this, if not, mods please move to appropriate section.

So here goes the minor hiccup.

I was setting up my jacks to reinforce the main floor as my 120 with a 40 gallon sump is going there. I was trying to level the cradle for the bottom of the jack and since the basement floor has a slope to the drain, I decided to chip away some of the concrete. I hammered the chisel pretty hard and I busted a hole on the floor and realized the concrete was maybe 2 inches deep and the soil underneath was very loose, not compacted. Does anyone know how to properly pour concrete and how to lay it out properly to keep it strong.

I know some people will say ask a contractor, I get it. I just thought I would try and see if someone really knows how.

Thank you in advance for your help.


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## Chromey (Sep 25, 2010)

Every bag of readymix has instructions on it, If not Google.

After the new section is dry, Spread out the load with a 2X6 Lagged to the floor, Then add the jackpost on it.

You can level the 2x6 with cedar shims, instead of busting up the floor.


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## altcharacter (Jan 10, 2011)

Dude, i'm a mason/tile setter...or atleast I was 10 years ago.
If you need some help doing that I can come over and fix it.
Or atleast fix the busted up concrete.

To me...it sounds like they did a drypack


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## Shoryureppa (Jul 1, 2011)

The concrete that was on it is very thin  Literally like an inch. The two jackposts are 25 inches from each other so I was going to cut out a 30 x 6 section out the basement floor the pour maybe a 6 inch layer of concrete, then bolt the cradle to the floor so it will never move. But I gotta be honest, I know cars and fix them for a living but I know jack$#!t about concrete and masonry.

Hey Alt, Do you take Dos Equis 24's for compensation? I mean For masonry work? 

Maybe a double deal for that tank since you wanted a 6 pack, you get an extra 18 plus a trip down memory lane


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## Dax (Sep 29, 2010)

There you go. Problem, solution, offer, acceptance ( I can't figure Alt would turn down a 24 for something he would help with anyway) 

Concrete is pretty simple stuff to mix and pour. If unsure, you can simply ask the Home depot guys. They may give crappy advice for some of things, but this one is pretty strightforward. Pretty cool how one project makes you learn about a whole bunch of stuff you had no interest in learning about.

Now that you are building a "foundation" for your jacks, you have 2 options. If the jacks are going to be permanent, you can recess the spot where the jacks sit and then later fill it in to match the exisiting floor. If you want the "undo" option, you can use a metal plate whose thickness will compensate for the slope. The idea is to place this on top of the wet concrete and level it where the jacks will go. In essence it is like making a custom shim.


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## altcharacter (Jan 10, 2011)

I'll call you tonight, but what we can do is...like you said...go down 6" and build a box for the concrete to sit in and waterproof it. With that, we can also put rebar in there to further reinforce it. 

The only thing we really have to worry about is the weight of the wet concrete. Once it's dry than it's solid and hard to flex/bow.

And sure I'll take a 24 of beer....but don't you think a better payment would be a MP40?!?! =P


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## Shoryureppa (Jul 1, 2011)

LOL! Once I upgrade to an mp60 then you can have it. You cannot put a price on great help!



altcharacter said:


> I'll call you tonight, but what we can do is...like you said...go down 6" and build a box for the concrete to sit in and waterproof it. With that, we can also put rebar in there to further reinforce it.
> 
> The only thing we really have to worry about is the weight of the wet concrete. Once it's dry than it's solid and hard to flex/bow.
> 
> And sure I'll take a 24 of beer....but don't you think a better payment would be a MP40?!?! =P


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## Chris S (Dec 19, 2007)

Just use sleeper beams to distribute the weight, much easier =D


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## altcharacter (Jan 10, 2011)

Where's the fun in that?


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## 50seven (Feb 14, 2010)

Basically what Alt said.

It's not uncommon for a poured basement slab to be only 2 inches thick in some places. Not an issue if you're just top coating it so your floor is flat or doesn't have holes.

However, if you want it to support a jack post, you need to do more. Chip out a section of concrete floor about 16-24" square, and dig down below any gravel or loose dirt until you reach *firm and solid undisturbed earth or clay.* usually you wont have to go down more than 8-10 inches, but if you're in a newer house, or depending on how it was built, you may have to remove over 16" deep of gravel and crap. Then pour a concrete pad about 16-24" square and about 6" thick using stone mix concrete (available from HD, Lowes, Rona, etc.) Once it has fully set, then carry on with your jack post. You can also set in some lag bolts in the wet concrete to lag the bottom of your post. It won't be necessary to rebar the pad, it's 6" thick. The most important thing is that it sits on solid undisturbed earth.


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## J_T (Mar 25, 2011)

50seven said:


> Basically what Alt said.
> 
> It's not uncommon for a poured basement slab to be only 2 inches thick in some places. Not an issue if you're just top coating it so your floor is flat or doesn't have holes.
> 
> However, if you want it to support a jack post, you need to do more. Chip out a section of concrete floor about 16-24" square, and dig down below any gravel or loose dirt until you reach *firm and solid undisturbed earth or clay.* usually you wont have to go down more than 8-10 inches, but if you're in a newer house, or depending on how it was built, you may have to remove over 16" deep of gravel and crap. Then pour a concrete pad about 16-24" square and about 6" thick using stone mix concrete (available from HD, Lowes, Rona, etc.) Once it has fully set, then carry on with your jack post. You can also set in some lag bolts in the wet concrete to lag the bottom of your post. It won't be necessary to rebar the pad, it's 6" thick. The most important thing is that it sits on solid undisturbed earth.


Someone that knows codes 

The undisturbed part is most important! That ground is packed already, and thus won't compress under the weight! It may take some effort to work in that tight spot, but the end result will be worth it! Especially if you plan to sell later. Hard to sell when the floor has sunk under the weight of that tank!


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## Zebrapl3co (Mar 29, 2006)

They don't make house the way they used to anymore. Most of the new houses only have 2" - 4" thick concrete in their basement. The old houses have 6" of concrete. Your house being 2" thick, I wonder how settle is the soil ...

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## Shoryureppa (Jul 1, 2011)

Thanks for all the help guys! It's just a little irritating because I've been working on this for quite a while and there just seems to be hiccups everywhere. I really thought that I would at least hvae the tank cleaned and cycling by next week


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## Shoryureppa (Jul 1, 2011)

Hey 50seven(Kevin) and everyone else that replied. thanks for all the help. I sorted it out and took Kevin's advice. Dug a hole about 18 inches deep and poured about 300 lbs of concrete. This thing should support a car!


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## 50seven (Feb 14, 2010)

Shoryureppa said:


> Hey 50seven(Kevin) and everyone else that replied. thanks for all the help. I sorted it out and took Kevin's advice. Dug a hole about 18 inches deep and poured about 300 lbs of concrete. This thing should support a car!


Awesome! Good to hear it all worked out.


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## altcharacter (Jan 10, 2011)

Pictures or it didn't happen!


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