# Multiple Gaps Between Aquarium & Stand - What Now?



## Vinoy Thomas (Jan 4, 2013)

Hi Everyone,

After the incident with my other tank, I promptly purchased another and was setting everything back up today.

Just as a precaution, I purchased foam and light diffuser (egg-crate) to place in and below the tank for prevention of cracking, failure, etc. Once, I put the foam onto the stand and put the tank up on top, I noticed a long gap on the back side trim between it and the stand. I also noticed, multiple other gaps around the tank even a few of the corners of the tank.

I did some research and found that this can cause tank failure, in my case cracking the bottom pane of my old tank.

I took a few pics of the largest gap on the back side of the tank.




























Also, that particular gap above averages around 3/16".

I haven't put any water in, so the tank is sitting empty above the stand. I can't go through what happened to my other tank, so if anyone has any idea as to solving this? That would be very, very appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
Vinoy


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## J_T (Mar 25, 2011)

Is the stand flat on the floor? Is it twisted at all (a long flat edge, like a level will show you)

What foam did you buy? Pink? If it isn't pink, don't use it (In my opinion). The concept is that the tank weight will compress the foam's high spots, and even out when it has full weight on it.

I understand your concerns, I would scared to death! But I think that if the gaps are 1/16" And less, you will have to trust the foam to do its job!

The eggcrate. I would advise against that. I did it once, along with many others. The small squares turn into detrius traps. Which will lead to high nitrates, algae, etc....

So, I would skip that part. If you are really worried about the rock on the glass, put some silicone strips down or something...


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## wtac (Mar 17, 2006)

The bend is called a crown...it's a natural characteristic of wood lumber. For horizontal "runs", the crown should be topside and it will "level out" when weight is applied. It's just another thing to keep in mind working with wood.

You can either flip that piece, wedge in a vertical beam midpoint or shim up the gap. Personally, I would flip that piece and let the weight of the tank push the crown down.

JM2C


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## Vinoy Thomas (Jan 4, 2013)

Hey Jon,

Thanks for the quick response.

The stand is good, its just the top of the stand that is not level. Also, the foam is blue, but I read on multiple other forums that a few guys used it on their 180G, 225, etc. and had no problems. Also, I know that the reason behind using foam is the fill in these gaps by the weigh of the tank pushing down on it. But when I filled the tank with water to see if these gaps would fill up, it didn't do much. 

I'm guessing that the gap is too big to fill.

One thing I forgot to mention, I had a 55 gallon when I was building this stand. So the top was sized to fit a 55 Gallon (with a few inches extra to fit the sump). To accommodate the 90G, I put in a plain 2 X 4 fitting the the entire the length of the stand. 

Now, I look at the 2 X 4 and notice that most the entire piece of wood is warped down wards, thus the gap.

Now I'm thinking, would shims work?

Thanks for the help,
Vinoy


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## J_T (Mar 25, 2011)

WTCA has the answer (pictures wheren't up when I posted)

The boards are the problem. Flip it, or add a new verticle 2x4 that is a touch bigger than the stand opening, and that will push the horizontal board back into place.

This is a structure problem. I wouldn't rely on a shim as a solution.


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## Vinoy Thomas (Jan 4, 2013)

Hey Guys,

Thanks for the helpful advice.

I replaced the 2 X 4 board with a straighter one. I took note of what you said wtac and placed the broad with the crown topside. 

On the new board, the crown does not spread through the entire length of the board (bend it not centered), instead the crown is mostly on one side of the board. This has left one of the corners of the tank hovering above the stand a few millimeters.

Also, I've been lurking around may other forums and found that these glass tanks with trims only need to be supported by the four corners of the stand, is this true? I can understand this since, on some metal stands the tank is ONLY supported by the four corners, leaving the entire middle section of the four sides hovering above the stand.

If I only need the four corners of the tank to be supported, would it be possible if I could place four small pieces of plywood below the corners so all corners have contact? 

I never knew putting the tank on the stand was so hard! 

Thanks again for all the help,
Vinoy


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## J_T (Mar 25, 2011)

Vinoy Thomas said:


> Hey Guys,
> 
> Thanks for the helpful advice.
> 
> ...


Full support when you can!

Now, I have done a tank that was only supported by legs under both ends... But I wouldn't do that again! LOL

Does that wood stand have a plywood top? If not, 1/2" sheet screwed and glued, and that will solve most of the problems. The foam will have a very flat surface to sit on, and the tank on that!


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## RR37 (Nov 6, 2012)

How big is this tank ? Once the approx PSI is worked out the materials are easier to decide on.


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## Vinoy Thomas (Jan 4, 2013)

Hey guys,

The stand does have a 1/2" plywood top. Also, RR37 the tank is a 90 gallon glass.

But note that this stand was initially built for a 55 gallon tank. So the plywood was only cut to around the size of the 55 (approx. 16" wide) so the plywood doesn't reach up to the rear corners of the 90 gallon tank I have now.

So what I had done to accommodate for the extended length of the 90 gallon tank was, to just put on a plain 2 X 4 to the back of the stand (as seen in the picture) to increase the width of the stand. This as we know is the problem, since the 2 X 4 is not perfectly level as was the plywood.

So, right now I think I may just but a whole new 4 X 8 1/2" plywood piece and cut it to the size of the 90 gallon. Since, I really don't want to go through another horror story AGAIN!

Also, give me some input on this one. Would it be better if I "dry" fit the plywood on the top of the stand and shim the plywood and the stand to keep the 90 gallon level? If the problem arises (tank not level with plywood)?

For anyone else, I've been doing a lot of lurking around forums and have found that glass tanks with bottom glass panes hovering over the surface (plastic trim) are built so that the corners support most of the weight of the tank. If you're experiencing what I'm going through, remember to ALWAYS make-sure the corners are evenly supporting the tank weight. 

Anyways, thanks for the very helpful advice. I'll keep you guys posted on how things go. 

Thanks again!
Vinoy


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## RR37 (Nov 6, 2012)

I'd be building a new stand, I would try retro fitting a 55g stand into a 90g stand.


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## Vinoy Thomas (Jan 4, 2013)

Hey RR37,

Thanks for the quick reply.

I don't think building a new stand would be an option. Also, I don't think its needed either. Since, building a new stand, I'm almost 100% sure I'll run into the same problem.

Either building a new or sticking with the one i have now, the only thing I will need to modify is the plywood what the tank sits on.

Anyways, I'll see how replacing the plywood and shimming it to be level works, hopefully that will solve my MANY problems 

Thanks for the much needed help!
Vinoy


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## RR37 (Nov 6, 2012)

Are you putting vertical supports below the horizontal 2x4 you have placed thee to take up the difference in width ? Relying on the shearing properties of screws isn't really a good idea when dead loading 1000lbs IMO.


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## Vinoy Thomas (Jan 4, 2013)

Hey RR37,

Yes, the 2 X 4 extension is supported by two vertical beams.

Thanks,
Vinoy


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## warfanax (Mar 5, 2012)

I also modified my stand to fit 40g and had to put 3/4" plywood on top. When i put the aquarium there were several small gaps similar to yours. I could fit a business card under it. I was also scared but also wanted to see how it behaves under weight. I knew the wood would bend under weight. So I filled it and gaps were even smaller after a week or so they are all gone now. 

You have braces I don't think you need to put foam. Tanks with braces sit on braces not with their whole bottom surface. So no foam is necessary. It adds stress to the bottom of the tank.


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