# Bioload 75 - Reef Aquarium



## bioload

My lofty goal of starting a large reef tank is on hold and I can't wait. Instead I'll be working on a more manageable system for the time being. Which will be a 75 gallon that I've drilled some time ago.

Not much to talk about at the moment but everyone will get a chance to see it take shape from the start. The bones of the system is a 75gal Perfecto and metal stand. The stand will be in a second floor bedroom turned office (mine) so providing updates would be a snap.










First thing will be getting it cleaned up and putting on the backing. Rather than paint I will be using a self adhesive vinyl film (black) that I picked up from a local sign shop today @ $15 for 5' x 2.5'. I like using black which adds contrast to the colours in the tank. I haven't used this material for backing before so we'll see how it goes.


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## bioload

Vinyl isn't going on as easy as I thought it would. Looks like it is going to have to be painted. The trouble is getting a large area covered smoothly and working out all the bubbles PITA. Time to get the tank back to the garage for a coat of paint.....oh well the kids had fun making their own decals.


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## bioload

No much to update today. The tank is back in place for now with a fresh coat (x3) of paint.


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## bioload

Did some more work on the aquascape this weekend. Again made use of more stuff that I had stored away. The base is crushed coral which I screened to remove the larger particles leaving particles less that 1mm (yes I have way too much time on my hands at the moment). The sand bed is only 2" deep and probably not deep enough for denitrification but I like the look of the smaller grains. The rock-work is made up of lace, decorative stone, and previously live rock that resided in some of my older tanks. If I were to estimate the amount.....approx 50-60lbs

Took some time but I was able to thread some twist ties through some of the larger pieces to get them to stand together.









I like how this creates open space for livestock to swim in keeps the rock work off the sand for easy cleaning.









Here is an FTS









And from the sides.


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## TBemba

Why didn't you paint the sides? 

I would have painted the sides and the bottom (optional) Less glass to clean and a tighter view if you know what i mean?


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## bioload

I've also placed a sheet of 3/4" MDF 2 coat prime 3 coats paint under the sand. I will later place the sump on this and will make it easier to clean up minor spills. The tank also rests on a sheet of Styrofoam and MDF.

Did I mention that this build would be pic intense!


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## aln

cool stuff  i'll be tracking this thread


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## conix67

I like the aquascaping. Leaves a lot of open space on top for SPS corals too 

By the way, the sand looks dry. Wouldn't you want to wash them thoroughly before adding it to the tank?


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## bioload

*Update 22/04/2010*

It will be some time before I get the sump ready. I'm currently working out the details of the design and will take some time. While I'm working on the sump I thought I would get a head start with cycling the tank. I started by capping the bulkheads for the drain and the return. These will be removed once the sump is ready.



















The tank has been filled (salinity 1.024) and equipped with a biowheel filter and two Sure Flow powerheads.

Just waiting for the dust to clear for now.


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## Windowlicka

Rock work looks awesome. What size sump are you planning to incorporate (or is this part of the whole "detail/design" aspect you mention?!?)


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## TBemba

I don't think any questions get answered.


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## bioload

Windowlicka said:


> Rock work looks awesome. What size sump are you planning to incorporate (or is this part of the whole "detail/design" aspect you mention?!?)


Thanks all...sorry real busy!

Still up in the air....nothing too large with 4200g/hr circulation in the tank I'm going to use the return pump for exchange to the sump.

The sand was transferred from an older system so no need to wash this time round. Will be seeding everything with some cured LR once everything is up and running.

Never thought of painting the sides actually. The back will need to be cleaned as well in order to maintain the contrast with the colours in the tank.....not looking forward to that chore, but that's why I kept the rock work away from the back


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## Robert04

Hey I'm currently using the same stand and It is under my 100+G, It moves around and is very unstable, I would look into beefing it up before you put 1000lbs of rock and water in there. I am prob going to get the guys are reefaquarium to help me put my tank on the new stand since my aquarium is full of living things etc. If it was just freshwater I think it would be fine but honestly mine has gotten rusty and it has wobbles alot and could give anyday when I'm cleaning the glass. Always have my fingers crossed, hope you can avoid that 

My aquarium is probably 3000$ my stand 100$ so i mean.. I plan to upgrade.

And you wouldn't want to clean aragonite because your removing things that would help the cycle and buffer the tank, straining it is ok to look for debris(to conix)


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## Abner

really nice rockwork so far..kinda inspired me to change my rockwork in my tank this weekend well that and a few new corals i acquired. but looking forward to see where you go with this.


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## bioload

*Update 23/04/2010*

Some more exciting news....well sort of...as exciting as a cycling tank could be. Seems to have started already, Ammonia is around 1-2ppm and Nitrite is 0.25ppm after a week or so.


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## bioload

After going back and fourth a few times I've finally decided to remove the sand from my display tank.....It's amazing the things you think of when your tank is cycling. I personally prefer the look of the sandbed, but with the flow I have in the tank the bare patches just kept getting larger and larger, and I'd prefer to keep the flow over the sand....will possibly go remote......maybe some GSP for a nice lawn effect 

Here's an updated pic










Thank is still cycling by the way......


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## bioload

Big Ray said:


> I personally feel like a Sand bed has alot of benefits.
> 
> no sand bed will also limit your options on the fish.


I agree.....may go remote with a second tank if needed, but I'm leaning towards removing waste before it has a change to decay.


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## bioload

I'm actually not missing the sand as much as I thought I would. I can always add it back in slowly afterwards. Figure it would be easier to add rather than remove later on. Funny to see the small amount of sand remaining. It's actually being picked up from the bottom through a section that I've named tornado alley and then dropped over to other areas&#8230;..I'm not in Kansas anymore&#8230;..or maybe I've just come back&#8230;&#8230;to Berlin.

Fed the tank some flakes the other day (not crazy) to check the flow pattern and after half an hour came back and they were still going round and round, but a lot smaller after being circulated through the powerheads.

As for going bare bottom&#8230;&#8230;.Finding it a really nice change to actually see what's at the bottom of my tank and cleaning it. A relative of mine recently got a new puppy in the house and had to pull out all his carpet and replace with hardwood. Kind of the same thing I think? Didn't make sense to get 4-6" deep carpet with the right size fibres and populate with critters that would eventually decompose what Rambo left behind. Both work wouldn't they.

I was also thinking that I could do away with a amount of live rock. Again, don't need a large central vac system when a Swiffer will do, but if I do run into issues&#8230;&#8230;that's what the bio-balls will be for. Yes I said bio-balls

Will be stocking really low to start, and monitoring params frequently to see how it goes. The challenge will be to balance the nutrient import and export, which is no different than any other tank.

Good or Bad, I'll let everyone know....isn't the internet great, better than TV. Oh wait it can do that too

Pittsburgh 2 - Montreal 1 http://www.cbc.ca/sports/hockey/hockeynightincanada/idesk/


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## bioload

Looks like Ammonia is on it's way down.

April 23, 2010









May 07, 2010


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## Kovac

bioload said:


> Looks like Ammonia is on it's way down.
> 
> April 23, 2010
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> May 07, 2010


Your almost there! Remember to monitor your nitrites and nitrates after.

Looking good so far!


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## bioload

After about 24hrs from my last test when I noticed the decline, Ammonia is now undetectable. I will continue to monitor as it might spike as the bioload changes. Not too worried about the Nitrite and Nitrate at the moment since we will be fish only for some time.

That will give me a chance to work on the sump.

May 8th, 2010


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## bioload

Yesterday I needed to transfer out the fish from another tank which I'm taking down (2 Percs and 1 Blue Tang). I also added 5ml of Seachem's Prime as a precaution. Did another test today to make sure there were no spikes and everything seems to be okay. Ammonia and Nitrite are 0 and pH is 8.2

May 10, 2010



























I also noticed a few snails appearing from a couple pieces of rock that was in my older tank. From what I can tell so far Collonista snails. They are just algae grazers and will cause no harm. I hope they don't get out of control.


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## bioload

A week has passed since I've last updated and waiting for my RO/DI replacement filters to arrive. In the meantime I've had my first algae bloom. Only on the rocks (at the moment) closest to the top....can't wait till I get my new filters. For now the algae gets darker throughout the day with the lights on, so I will be keeping them off for now.










Today's Forecast:
Temperature = 78° F
Ammonia = 0
Nitrite = 0
Nitrate = 40
pH = 8.0
Alkalinity = 7 dKH
Salinity = 1.022


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## cablemike

look like a diatom bloom.. its normal at this stage and will be followed by an algae or cyano bloom.


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## PACMAN

awesome build, following along! i have a 75 gal tank that is used for freshwater. one day, saltwater could be its future! 

what lighting are you planning on having?


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## bioload

Got some time to get my RO/DI connected. The unit is one that I purchased several years ago http://www.aquasafecanada.com/ I've been happy with the performance of the unit I purchased, but the price has gone up a fair bit from the time I purchased ($120) to now (from $200)

I've been using tap water to fill the tank up to this point and my nitrate level has been rising since. I tested a few days ago and it's around 80-100ppm. Not sure how much the tap is contributing to the nitrate (maybe I'll test a little later) or if the tank is not processing it (usually takes a while). Regardless I was planning on adding the RO, and now is as good a time as any.

I had originally planned on putting the unit under the tank, but due to the distance to the guest bathroom where the water and drain lines are located I decided to place it under the sink instead. So here it goes

Location:under sink









Disconnected cold water line









Installed a shutoff valve. The builder was too cheap to put one in. I believe these may now be mandatory. I you already have one installed that would be a bonus.









The tee'd off the shutoff to supply the faucet above as well as the RO









The original line had to be cut after adding the shutoff and tee.









Here is the final connection with the line to the RO unit installed









I went to HD today and found a couple gauges that I'll be using this time to check the pressure drop over the sediment and carbon filters. Not a bad deal at $7.50 each. with all the connections it came to around $40 for the two gauges. Depending on your set up the connections required may vary.









Connected the first gauge to the main line coming into Stage 1 sediment filter. The second is after the Stage 3 carbon block.









Once the gauges are installed, went to work connecting all the lines. The first was from the gauge on the outlet of the carbon block to the "IN" on the auto shut off. Don't think I'll be using the ATS valve for now, but installed it anyway.









ATS valve "OUT" to the membrane. The membrane I will be using is a 100gpd, but thinking of adding a second in the future.









On the other side of the membrane there are two connections. The one closest to the center of the RO filter housing is the RO filtered water, and the outer connection is the waste line. The filtered water is connected to the second "IN" on the ATS. The waste (yellow) is connected to the flow restrictor/flush valve. The connection to the DI (which will be added later) is the second "OUT" on the ATS.









A bit difficult to see in this shot, but I connected a valve between the inlet on the Stage 1 sediment filter and the main shutoff valve. The yellow hose is connected to the flush valve which will be attached to the drain.









Removed the trap under the sink on the drain and drilled a 1/4" hole for the drain line.









Connected the drain fitting over the hole that was drilled









Inserted and tightened the drain line onto the fitting









Finally tucked the unit away inside the cabinet. I'll be adding DI to the RO once my new canisters arrive.









Also picked up a TDS meter today ($15) from HD. I'm still waiting for my replacement filters and new membrane to arrive, but I tested it out using my old filters. Tap waster is reading 113 and the RO unit with my old filters is reading 3. Hope this helps with the nitrates.









New pressure gauges are working great as well. Looks like I didn't need to replace my sediment filters after all.









DI canisters should arrive some time next week, once installed I hope that would bring the TDS to 0.


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## cablemike

thanks for the info on the tds.. i went and picked one up today after reading this.. my only question regarding your install is all the brass connectors you used, arent we supposed to avoid any metal connectors at all costs?


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## bioload

cablemike said:


> thanks for the info on the tds.. i went and picked one up today after reading this.. my only question regarding your install is all the brass connectors you used, arent we supposed to avoid any metal connectors at all costs?


Glad to be of assistance. I'm going to have to exchange mine since I can only get it to turn on by taking the batteries out and putting them back in.......or maybe I should read the instructions  .

Metal fittings shouldn't be an issue with tap, my house is all copper pipe  . I think saltwater applications would be more of a concern.


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## cablemike

bioload said:


> Glad to be of assistance. I'm going to have to exchange mine since I can only get it to turn on by taking the batteries out and putting them back in.......or maybe I should read the instructions  .
> 
> Metal fittings shouldn't be an issue with tap, my house is all copper pipe  . I think saltwater applications would be more of a concern.


doesnt your power button click when you push it hard? if it doesnt then its defective.


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## bioload

cablemike said:


> doesnt your power button click when you push it hard? if it doesnt then its defective.


Pressed it....nothing. Held it down for a while.....nothing. I guess I should have checked that in the store. oh well....give's me another excuse for a trip to the HD.


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## bioload

Been some time since I've made any progress on the tank itself. No FTS yet since there has been little change

However, I've finally started on the sump which will be a 40gal breeder. The dimensions are 36"x18"x15"high which fits nicely on the bottom frame of the stand.

With the 12" of space remaining on the stand I've built an acrylic tank that overflows into the 40gal, but I'm still not sure what to do with this section. Some ideas I've been thinking of include fuge, quarantine, acclimation, frag.....so much to do and so little space.


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## bioload

Been busy over the past couple weeks on a few other projects. One of which was building shop table to give my table saw and router a more permanent home. This will come in handy for the DIY's to come.


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## bioload

Gathered for a group shot.










FTS - Not much change


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## bioload

Some more work on the tank. Since I've finally installed the sump I need an overflow box in the main tank to replace the plugs installed when the tank was filled










I was able to get an off cut from Piedmont Plastics for approx $5.00 sq/ft including taxes. Have quite a bit extra that I can use later on for the media reactors and skimmer. First step was to rip a 6" wide strip for the overflow.










Using the table saw again cut the pieces for the front, back and side of the overflow. The box will measure 6"x6"x4"










Once the cuts were made with the table saw. I then set up a straight edge on the router table to clean up the edges that will be welded. I just use a simple level for this clamped to the table. I don't have a jointer at the moment, but this works fine.










The guide was set to just shave the edge of the piece. Important to do one pass per piece before moving the guide to ensure all the pieces have the right dimensions. Top of each peice then bottom, then sides etc.










Here is a look between the edge from the table saw and after routing.










Once the edges are cleaned up with the router I usually do a dry fit to ensure everything lines up right.










Before welding the pieces together I marked where the bulkhead would be installed on the box and drilled a hole using a hole saw. Just placed is on the back of the tank which was drained and traced the hole.










I used a standard squeeze applicator and Weld-On 4 for the solvent. Both can be obtained from Piedmont Plastics. I would recommend practicing on a scraps if possible to get used to the applicator. When inverted the solvent flows very fast. Squeezing the bottle before inverting helps control the flow, but takes some practice to get right










When bonding two pieces I leave a slight edge that can be cleaned up using the router table afterward.










Once the front, back, and sides are all welded, next step is to clean up the edges.










Attaching everything to the bottom. This piece I did not cut on the table saw. I simply glued the box onto the oversize bottom and again passed on the router










Completed box










I had some egg-crate that fit nicely into the top of the overflow to prevent anything from going into the drain










Finally installed the box into the tank. Ensure that the gaskets are in the right spots.

Flange -> Gasket -> Overflow -> Gasket -> Tank -> Gasket (optional) -> Nut










HTH, 
Sunil


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## teemee

that's pretty impressive bioload!


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## bioload

teemee said:


> that's pretty impressive bioload!


Thanks!


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## PACMAN

teemee said:


> that's pretty impressive bioload!


+1 that is awesome! Kepp up the good work, and please kepp posting pictures!!!


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## bioload

PACMAN said:


> +1 that is awesome! Kepp up the good work, and please kepp posting pictures!!!


Thanks PACMAN,

What's a build thread without a few pics .


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## bioload

Unfortunately my Blue Tang that I've had for the past several years has become quite aggressive in the 75gal. I won't be able to have a large tank ready in time and would like to continue adding livestock, but I'm afraid she's too territorial.

If someone has a nice home for her.......please ensure that your tank is appropriate, like I said, she's been with us for over 4 years and would hate to have her perish.

$60.00 - Approx 5"


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## bioload

Got my skimmer pump (Laguna Max Flo 1500 SWC Needlewheel) last week and finally was able to take it for a test drive. I must say I'm quite impressed compared to my old sedra needlewheel.

Still not sure what design I'll be using for the skimmer, but I whipped together a box with a diffusion plate to make some bubbles.

This is after an hour....I like it wet, and already a few pods swimming around in the V.


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## bioload




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## PACMAN

pylon?


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## bioload

Yup!.... .....


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## conix67

bioload said:


> Yup!.... .....


I don't get it ???

Anyway, how do you empty the skimmate in "V"?


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## bioload

conix67 said:


> I don't get it ???
> 
> Anyway, how do you empty the skimmate in "V"?


I've drilled the upper portion of the skimmer to drain the skimmate. It seems as though only one side is doing any collection ....but it will have to do as I work on its replacement.


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## bioload

Okay enough of the square skimmer......new build started.

It's been about 4 months now since I first added saltwater to my 75 gallon tank and I'm still far from my final goal of a successful mixed reef. There are several obstacles at the moment but let's deal with them one at a time.

Ammonia and nitrite made their appearance and left, leaving behind their garbage in the form of nitrate. The last part of the nitrogen cycle that has been a thorn in my side. That house guest that has overstayed their welcome. That pimple on the end of your nose that won't go away. That ex-....well you get the idea, I'm quite frustrated!......don't even get me started on Phosphates.

My first weapon of choice in this fight was macro algae. However, I now have have enough macro to fill a 5 gal pail and there has been no noticeable drop in nitrates over the past 2 weeks. I guessing that nitrate is being created faster than the macro can consume.

I just received my acrylic tubing for my skimmer this week and I'm hoping that this will have an impact. Not necessarily removing any nitrate, but removing waste before it has a chance to add to the nitrate problem.

Here are some rough details

Pump: SWC Askoll (Laguna) 1500 needle wheel
Diameter: 8"
Height: 23" to fit under my tank

Here is a shot of what I have so far. A 3" tall 6"OD 1/8" wall extruded acrylic tube which was welded to a 1/4" sheet of white acrylic and cleaned up with the router

Not much but a start


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## bioload

Today I managed to complete the diffusion plate. I would like 100% of the tanks overflow to go through the skimmer and decided to cut the bottom of the chamber to accommodate a 1.5" bulkhead which will be plumbed directly to the overflow of the tank. I'm not sure how this would effect the performance of the skimmer, but I'll be able to make some mods later if there are any issues with the design










After making a sketch-up of the hole pattern I made a printout and taped it to the top of the chamber. Using a drill press spent about an hour or so drilling all the holes. I hope that this would be enough.










Here is a pic of inside the diffusion chamber where I'm hoping I get a good mix with the tank water and the air from the needlewheel


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## Big Ray

haha nice man ! u have skills ! lol 

if you are going to have all the water going through the skimmer though, you will need ALOT of air injected to be able to skimm efficiently, ratio of air to water volume. 

and lastly, where do I order my "bioload skimmer" ? lol haha


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## bioload

Big Ray said:


> where do I order my "bioload skimmer" ? lol haha


Just drop off some acrylic and maybe a few frags .....once I get my params in check


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## bioload

Here is a rough sketch of my plans for the sump (dimensions are approximate). I would like to plumb the overflow from the tank into the skimmer box, and then connect it to the diffudsion plate.










A single reactor will be used for calcium, however, I'm still undecided on the other two. I'm thinking of using one for GFO and the other for Sulpher. I'll try to add some plumbing to the sketchup to give a better picture of how things will be connected.


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## explor3r

Incredible work, looking fantastic!!!!!
Where do u get the acrylic from


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## bioload

Thanks explor3r, Here is a list of the guys I use, but switch based on availability. I don't generally order full sheets/lengths...just keep in touch for off cuts mainly.

http://www.reefkeeping.ca/forum/showthread.php?180


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## bioload

Today I made some progress on the skimmer body, which will be made from 8" extruded acrylic. The piece that I ordered was 24" long and will need to be cut down into the collection cup and the skimmer body. In order to do this I made a jig out of MDF to hold the acrylic tube in place on the table saw. Rather than sliding the tube across the table I placed it over the lowered blade and raised the blade height to make the cut. I recommend having a second person to assist in holding the piece as the blade is being raised.

Stop the saw once the blade reaches its maximum height before removing the tube. Lower the blade and rotate the tube 90deg and repeat until the tube is cut all the way around.










The edge of the tube was quite rough and there were a cuts that didn't line up.....so off to the router table to clean up the edges.










I clamped a guide to the router table, and decided that I could use the same jig from the table saw to slide the edge across the router bit. When cleaning the edges up on the router table the key is use multiple light passes rather than a single pass. The tube needed to be rotated several times within the jig in order to make it all the way around.










Here is a shot of the flush trim bit I used. In order to use this bit for this cut I needed to remove the bearing from the top, or you could use a regular mortising bit.


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## bioload

I did several passed and was not very pleased with the results. It appears that every time I rotated the tube in the jig I did not get it back the right position for the next pass. The pic below shows the edges of each cut which did not line up properly.










I decided to remove the jig and use the guide alone. The guide was clamped to the edge of the table and while pulling the tube against the guide made several more cuts.










The results were better this time around. However, I does take some getting used to working with such a large peice. There were several cuts where my hands shook a bit moving off the guide and the following notch created by the router bit meant I needed to make a few more cuts all the way around.


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## bioload

After going around a few times I finally got a cut that I was pleased with and should make for a good clean bond.


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## bioload

More Pics.....

This is what I'll be using for the union between the skimmer body and the collection cup. I've used several times in the past but this time I will make some more modifications.










One good thing about using the cleanout is availabiltiy. You can pretty much find them in any hardware store in sizes which include 2", 3" amd what I'm using the 4"

The downside I found in my previous skimmer was the number of turns required to get the collection cup off. This time I'll try to make a lower profile union and will use a PVC cleanout instead of the ABS below


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## bioload

The first mod is to remove the square in the center of the plug. I've tried several methods and I've found the easiest way is using a hole saw on a drill press. The one below was done with a hole was that was too small. I then proceeded to cut the remaining bits off with the mitre saw, but I wouldn't recommend it.....you can see the damage to the plug cause be the saw which will preven a good seal later on.










Once the center is removed it's off to the router table to clean ot the rest of the material with a flush trim bit. Care is needed when doing this to prevent the peice from being pulled out of your hands and trown across the room. A jig can be used, but I find if you exert enough downward elbow grease I'm okay.

Always take note of the direction of the router bit and make sure you start the router givving enough time for it to come up to speed before putting the peice in position........and watch your fingers










When completed you should have a piece that looks like this....and if you're Canadian....the double/double should be there as well


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## bioload

As I mentioned before the number of turns required to remove the collection cup was somewhat annoying at times. It did not required a lot of height to be removed but I'll try another mod this time by shaving down the threads. This was done once again on the router table with the bearing removed from the flush trim bit. You can also use a straight bit but I was too lazy to swap it out.

I placed the piece against the fence of the router table (turn on the router first!!), and made light cuts rotating the piece each time adjusting the fence.

Setting the fence for the initial cut










Finished piece. I had to keep checking the threads on the cleanout to ensure that I didn't take too much off. When I was done there was less than a 1/4 turn in order to connect the two pieces, and get a tight fit with the gasket....forgot to mention that the plugs also come with a gasket.










This completes one half of the union/flange that will be attached to the top of the skimmer body.


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## bioload

The cleanout was simple cut on the miter saw leaving only the tread portion. I could have made the cut thinner but would like to keep all my fingers.










Once that was done I followed the same process as I did for the plug using the router. Before I could do that though I needed to get rid of those little "bumps" on the side. If I didn't I would not be able to rotate the piece on edge. I adjusted the fence to the right distance, and rotated across the bit.










and here is the completed flange/union....which is it by the way?


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## bioload

Here is a shot of the body about to be solvent welded. Nothing special....just place it on the sheet and weld.










Almost forgot.....I usually add some weight before gluing....oops "welding". Paint cans come in handy. P.S. I use Benjamin Moore.....no matter what the guys at HD say .....This was some of the cheap stuff the builder left behind.










Excuse my foam job on the door in the background....that stuff goes a long way!

Off to the router table again. After about an hour or so I cut out the tube making sure I put the bearing back on the flush bit.....it's so easy to forget. I usually place masking tape on the tube if it didn't come with any protective film, which all of the ones I've ever receive didn't have.


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## bioload

A couple teaser shots of what is starting to look like a skimmer .........time to get some sleep, and figure out a way to bend the top into a straight cone.



















Did I mention that this build would be Pic Intense


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## bioload

Did some work on the collection cup this morning. Sorry in advance for the breif descriptions....Got to get the kids luch before it's off to the day job.

Some 4" acrylic tubing was cut for the riser










Preped the edge of the rise on the router










Welded the rise to 1/4" sheet










Cut out the center using a hole saw










Finished off the hole with the router


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## bioload

Welded the collection cup to the acrylic sheet....make sure ther riser is centered










Cut out the collection cup from the sheet with a 1/4" roundover bit....I like the finish is gives.










Remember the pylon I posted earlier.......a sneak peak of the next project where I'll try some vacuum thermoforming. Should be the cheapest body (approx $5.00) if I can get it right


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## aquanutt

One think I must say...

I WISH I HAD A SHOP LIKE YOU!

I would build everything by my self, I'm kinda diy guy as well...

cheers
sly


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## bioload

Pretty much all of the parts can be done with a table saw and a router. Nothing fancy just make sure it has a solid base and won't move on you.

The work table I put together with 2x4's plyood and MDF......alot of research helps as well.

Google seems to be the new classroom


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## bioload

Tool Tip:

To cut circles out I would recommend the Jasper circle jigs. They manufacture several templates, guides, and jigs that work really well.

Here are a few shots....I use the 200 and 400 models that can mount right onto the router table.


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## bioload

I tried thermoforming the top of the skimmer body to provide a transition between the body and the collection cup, but it didn't turn out too well so I won't go through all the steps. Here a few shots that outline the basic process (which still needs some work).

I made a box that would fit over the skimmer to heat the top using a heat gun. The temperature inside gets pretty hot during the initial tests! I believe the range for acrylic is around 300F.










I placed the box over the top of the skimmer and heated for approx 20min at 300F. Here is a pic with the lid off. I used the lid as a damper, leaving a gap, to regulate the temperature inside the box. A baffle was placed inside the box to prevent overheating the acrylic.










There was a mold on the inside of the skimmer which I made from foam to mold the shape. However, the acrylic would just not bend the way I would like it too. Eventually a gap started forming between the top of the chamber and the PVC union.










The top was cut off  and a new one welded back to the skimmer. I will go with a flat top for now.


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## bioload

Almost complete today.

Cutting out the holes for the pump and the bulkheads on the top of the skimmer box










Coming together










Plumbing of the diffusion plate










All together










Getting ready to get wet....still need to complete the lid and the bottom of the box. I didn't want to weld the bottom of the box on before I gave it a try. I would have liked to have rounded over the box, but I accidentally welded the body on before I got a chance to get it on router table.


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## PACMAN

This is a phenomenal thread! I appreciate your build very much!


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## bioload

Got the skimmer into the sump . The first thing I noticed was the diffusion chamber. Since I plumbed the inlet of the skimmer directly to the plate I would need to ensure there is a pre-filter or grid to prevent debris from getting into the skimmer in this case macroalgae from the refuge. I'm glad I didn't glue the bottom onto the box yet. The next build I would probably add a keyhole flange to the bottom of the skimmer body to give access to the plate


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## gucci17

very impressive!!! You got some skills bio!


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## bioload

Here is a vid of the first test of the skimmer. Keep in mind that the tank has been set up for about 5 months now without a water change so the DOC's may be quite high, but I'm please with the initial results .


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## bioload

Left the skimmer running for a day now and everything seems fine. I'll try to get things finished today and hopefully have it back in and plumbed in it's final location before the weekend

Here are some shots of what it managed to pull out during the test. I'm quite surprised with only around 4" of water in the chamber.


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## Big Ray

lol looking good ! Id personally restrict the out put with a gate valve to get a higher water level in the skimmer body and also flexibility to skim wet or dry, overall, looks awesome !


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## bioload

Big Ray said:


> lol looking good ! Id personally restrict the out put with a gate valve to get a higher water level in the skimmer body and also flexibility to skim wet or dry, overall, looks awesome !


Just finished putting the bottom on the skimmer . A gate valve is in the plan....I'll cannibalize my MR6 in the meantime which has a 1.5" valve on it. Hopefully I can get things wrapped up soon.


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## bioload

With the skimmer nearing completion I've started thinking of DIY'ing a calcium reactor. 

Danner Mag-Drive 250 Supreme Water Pump
Milwaukee CO2 Regulator with Needle Valve & Solenoid 
5-3/4" x 6"OD Acrylic Tube Clear Extruded x 12" 
Milwaukee Instruments SMS125 pH/ORP Controller - (Already have)

Still looking for co2 cylinder options as well.


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## bioload

Finally got the skimmer plumbed and running for about a day now, and just when I thought I could move my focus elsewhere.....there seems to be a problem with the pump. Got home this afternoon to find that there weren't any fine bubbles being produced.

The pump is still drawing air through the airline, but the chamber of the skimmer looks like a boil and the water line which was right at the neck when everything was working well has dropped several inches.

I opened the volute and there is nothing visibly wrong with the pinwheel. Contacted SWC and hope to here back from them soon...


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## bioload

The skimmer seems to be working better this morning. Turns out while I was at work yesterday my two year old decided to feed some cheetos into the sump. My next step may be to finish the stand and get some child proof doors.

I do recall an instance with one of my other tanks where the skimmer suddenly stopped working. Thinking back now the neighbors son did drop a couple Ruffles into the thank. I guess skimmers and junkfood don't mix well.

Here is a pic of the skimmer in it's final spot plumbed into the overflow. I had originally had a gate valve on the outlet, but I've found I can adjust the skimmer by varying the height of the outlet tee for now. I currently have the return pump (mag 900) running at 100% through the tank. However, this will be reduced later on when I add a bypass to feed the reactors and refuge.


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## bioload

A bit of a setback for the build today

I was topping off with RO/DI and somehow the line filling the sump was pulled out and dripped for a while on the floor. I guess the lesson here is "Where there's water......there will always be spills.....prepare for it".

The MDF that I was using for the base of the stand has swollen and warped with two of the legs sinking a bit. I have another 75gallon tank and I'm thinking of doing a swap in order to get that MDF out from under the tank.


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## gucci17

bioload said:


> A bit of a setback for the build today
> 
> I was topping off with RO/DI and somehow the line filling the sump was pulled out and dripped for a while on the floor. I guess the lesson here is "Where there's water......there will always be spills.....prepare for it".
> 
> The MDF that I was using for the base of the stand has swollen and warped with two of the legs sinking a bit. I have another 75gallon tank and I'm thinking of doing a swap in order to get that MDF out from under the tank.


sh*tty, that sucks man...definitely a swap would be the easiest way. That's how I usually transfer things to make my life easier.


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## bioload

It's been a while since I've updated a tank log since not much has changed. The tank was relocated to the opposite side of the room due to the spill and subsequent cleanup .

I had to redo the aquascape in the move and could not get it exactly the way it was before, but I'm still with the new look.

The Percula's have been moved out to their new home where they have started spawning, and I've added a pair of Maroon's (red and white ). I still have my blue tang which is not as aggressive to the maroon clowns. I've also added a quartet of chromis, and a lawnmower blenny to the tank.......Almost forgot the three serpent stars...don't see them much.

The tank is temporarily lit with a cool touch fixture with VHO actinics and dual MH 175's. I was planning on replacing the bulbs on the fixture but due to the $200 price tag for the bulbs I'll be going LED.

Still no corals yet....but soon. Working on the Nitrates and will be building a few reactors once the LED DIY is complete. The tank has yet to get a water change and the Nitrates are in the 40-80 range (i think). It's a real pain trying the guess the colours on the test kit.

I've added a few varieties of caulerpa to the sump and had it lit with a 13W compact fluorescent. Right now I'm using a 250W DE MH pendant to see if it will spur some more growth to consume some of the excess nitrates.

I think that's about all that has changed....so here is an FTS


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## aquanutt

Its getting there,
I like your rocks man, nice pick...

cheers


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## bioload

Between work and the family I got some time make some progress on the fixture. The LED's are mounted to the heat sinks in the standard alternating blue/white pattern. The assembly was fairly simple with the screws provided in the kit. All I needed to do was apply some of the thermal grease and screw into place. A word of caution regarding the grease.....a little goes a LONG way.










Some planning is required in order to position the LED's in order to connect them in series. I also found that the wires that came in the kit were too short for the layout that I have. They are okay if I were to connect the LED's side by side, but came up quite a bit short running diagonally.


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## gucci17

bioload said:


> Between work and the family I got some time make some progress on the fixture. The LED's are mounted to the heat sinks in the standard alternating blue/white pattern. The assembly was fairly simple with the screws provided in the kit. All I needed to do was apply some of the thermal grease and screw into place. A word of caution regarding the grease.....a little goes a LONG way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some planning is required in order to position the LED's in order to connect them in series. I also found that the wires that came in the kit were too short for the layout that I have. They are okay if I were to connect the LED's side by side, but came up quite a bit short running diagonally.


Awesome Bio! When do we get to see them fired up? Also what size tank are they going on?


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## explor3r

I would love to see them working too...Fire them up!!!!!!!!!!


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## shiver905

We need a write up!

Im considering building a LED fixture also,

Id love to know howyou put yours together and where you got the supplies.

As for the fixture are you going to design a plexi glass casing?

where you get the head sinks?


Its looking great!


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## bioload

The acrylic box I'm building will be home to two of the segments with one box for each side of the 75 gallon. The dimensions are approximately 22"w, 13"d, and 2.5"high. I might drop the height down to 1.5" if I decide to go without the optics.

Below are the pieces that were cut for the font, back, and sides. The two sides will be router prep'd in order to bond with the front and back.


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## bioload

Here are the pieces welded together. I've left a bit of overlap on the corners which will be cleaned up on the router table. The top and the bottom will routed as well to get a clean edge


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## bioload

I'll likely dive into an Arduino controller in the near future, but thought I'd get me feet wet with a simple on off setup to start. Following along with a few of the RC Arduino threads as well.

Some more work done after an evening skate with the kids. Here I removed the excess acrylic from the ends of the joint










Once the remaining edges were prep'd It was time to weld on what will be the top of the fixture.......with some help from a few paint cans










Cleaning up some more edges










X2


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## bioload

and a rough fit of the heat sinks and drivers. I'll be placing a cooling fan into each of the fixtures as well, and may go with an LED cooling fan that will serve double duty as some moon lighting.


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## bioload

The soldering is a very tedious task for a DIY. I consider myself to be somewhat patient when it comes to working on stuff, but I couldn't wait to get this part of the build over. Next to drywall it's right up there on my list of least enjoyable things to do.

Here is a shot of the XP-G's wired up.










Let there be light


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## bioload

Before attached the heatsinks to the fixture I decided to place them on the tank to get them positioned right. The last thing I want to do is to drill mounting holes in the fixture only to find out that I need to move them over a couple inches. I placed the heatsinks on a sheet of acrylic above the tank, using four optics on the Royal Blues as legs. The remaining LED's are without any of the lenses. The sump on the bottom is lit by a DE250MH 14K....or 20K not quite sure since I bought the fixture several years ago from someone and have yet to change the bulb.










The image isn't exactly what I see with the naked eye, but I do like the colour and am pleased with the intensity of the LED's as well.


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## Kweli

Awesome!!

Still waiting for a GTA'er to offer to make my LED lights


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## bioload

Kweli said:


> Awesome!!
> 
> Still waiting for a GTA'er to offer to make my LED lights


Feel free to drop by.....don't mind putting something together if you have the parts......I have been known to work for frags


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## bioload

Haven't posted anything on the tank in a while....doing my first water changes over the past couple days to see if I could get my nitrates down from around 20ppm.

I've been lucky to have my latest perc spawning up near the fron of the tank. Will be nice to see if they keep this up

Spawning


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## bioload

Plans for a new fixture


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