# new tank setup



## garwood (Oct 27, 2012)

so im in the process of setting up my new tank. It is a 65gallon (3'x2'x18"), from top to bottom, coast to coast overflow with bean animal drain, Evergrow it2080 full spectrum programmable led, 2x Jebeo rw-4 wavemakers, 60lbs of pukani rock, 40lbs saeflor special grade reef sand, 30 gallon 2 compartment sump, super reef octopus 1000int protein skimmer, media bag of 3/4 carbon-1/4 gfo sitting in sump, iinch return with bypass... just waiting for my 1262 eheim return pump and spectrapure 4 stage ro/di unit. Still need to get container for ro water and test kits. The ro unit is really holding me up in getting this thing operational! Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated on anything im missing which prob is still lots,lol. does buying stuff ever end. sorry tried to upload pics but wont let me. got them to upload to my album but not here


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## Midland (Jan 26, 2015)

I'm a true beginning with this hobby, and from the content of your set up I suspect you know more than me. However, the one thought I had based on what I have read is whether it is ideal to have the carbon and GFO combined. I have read that they expire I different rates and therefore should be in separate containers. 

Hopefully someone who knows more than me on this will chime in. 

Set up sounds great though. Looking forward to pics.

Eric


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## sig (Dec 13, 2010)

refractometer,
TDS meter if not build in RODI UNIT,
true union valve to disconnect 1262 for cleaning and adjust flow. 1262 could be to much in comparison with 1" drain. It depends how much GPH your overflow can accept.
Valves for adjust drain. 
I suggest to split return in two. It will add one more powerhead.
Get reactors for GFO anf Carbon
Controller will help also
millions other things

this thread probably will help. 65G + 30G sump + 1262

http://www.gtaaquaria.com/forum/showthread.php?t=135402

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## garwood (Oct 27, 2012)

Midland said:


> I'm a true beginning with this hobby, and from the content of your set up I suspect you know more than me. However, the one thought I had based on what I have read is whether it is ideal to have the carbon and GFO combined. I have read that they expire I different rates and therefore should be in separate containers.
> 
> Hopefully someone who knows more than me on this will chime in.
> 
> ...


I believe the gfo has more surface area (better adsorption) than the carbon, but ive been told its ok to mix, In a reactor they keep the gfo moving so it doesnt clump, carbon you dont want to move or it breaks down, so having the gfo mixed with carbon it is not in contact with each other and keep from clumping. Eventually goin to use a reactor but still mix so only need one.


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## garwood (Oct 27, 2012)

thanks for the link, reading my way through it. I think i got the plumbing ok. i had a mag 9.5 on there and had green lights across the board on the test run. the pump seemed like a good match but the noise from it was driving me crazy. the ro unit has the dual tds meter if i ever get it. hopefully this week. ill eventually get a reactor at some point and prob plumb off the t from the return. refractometer for sure and SALT!!! i guess the hydrometers are a complete waste of money. I dont think a controller will be in the near future, the funds are just not there yet... I still need to take the pukani and bleach and acid bath it and soak it for awhile in ro water so still awhile before up and running. But the growing list of stuff i have to get is stagering.lol. i hope the pics of what i got works now. cheers


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## rburns24 (Jan 31, 2011)

-
Looks good. 3'x2'x18" are great dimensions for a tank. The one thing I
would do, is get rid of the middle high rock. You won't be able to put any 
corals(for sure very few) on it and it would open up the tank for swimming 
area for the fish, etc., and add to the pereption of depth. Maybe use a 
smaller rock in place of it.
-


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## PaulF757 (Dec 9, 2013)

It looks good to me. I do agree with Rob that the rock work is too high, I did the same in mine, but once I removed them it made the aquascape look much nicer. You can put the extra rock in your sump.

Good job.


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## fesso clown (Nov 15, 2011)

GFO and carbon expire at different rates, you'll end up wasting if you combine them. Also not terribly effective run passively in bags... as stated a couple of reactors would be much better. Start with one for the GFO, it need to tumble to be most effective. Carbon can come later, not everyone uses carbon... I don't. Only occasionally. 
+1 I wouldn't use all that rock. It looks too full, no room for fish or coral. The pound per Gallon is really only a suggestion, with a good skimmer and water changes you can get away with way less. 
Looks like you are off to a good start there.... following along.


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## sig (Dec 13, 2010)

and do not forget strainers on the drain intakes

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## fury165 (Aug 21, 2010)

Good advice so far, especially wrt the GFO/Carbon. The cost of the separate reactors will repay themselves in short order when compared to the cost of replacing GFO frequently/prematurely. 

Another up front purchase you should consider is a controller to manage all of your electronics. You don't need to get the full blown system at first - basic will do and you can always add to it down the line. IMHO the investment could save you $$$ or from a disaster down the road.


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## garwood (Oct 27, 2012)

thanks for all the input. Where to start, this is my first plunge into salt water so still lots to learn. i think i will definately go with a reactor for the gfo. the carbon may not be needed constantly from what i understand and may even have ill effects from long term use on inhabitants. also i have heard having the dual reactor that you can buy can act up because of clogging between them or something. any truth to this. should i run seperate lines for each. As for the pukani not sure yet just wanted to see it all in the tank. Im not into the minimalist look nor can i stand rock walls that just end up looking shelf like. I do like a lot of rock. i am definately trying to give the illusion of depth. the rocks from left to middle of tank actually consist of only 3 massive rocks and on the right under return 3 or 4 smaller rocks. I still have a 10lb rock that wouldnt fit. its ok i will spend hours rearranging. my favorite thing is aquascaping, trying to recreate a truley realistic look is the funnest part


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## garwood (Oct 27, 2012)

sig said:


> refractometer,
> TDS meter if not build in RODI UNIT,
> true union valve to disconnect 1262 for cleaning and adjust flow. 1262 could be to much in comparison with 1" drain. It depends how much GPH your overflow can accept.
> Valves for adjust drain.
> ...


how di the 1262 work out. did you t off with valve to redirect extra flow. I found with the mag9.5 that it could not keep up with my drain. I believe 1" pipe under full siphon is something crazy like 2000gph. I do have almost 6' of head to overcome so maybe that is the difference, im hoping the 1262 is just as powerfull. Any excess can be used to power a reactor i guess


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## altcharacter (Jan 10, 2011)

A 1262 is definitely to big for a 65g and you would need to dial it down quite a bit. I was using Paul's 1262 on a 65g and I put a ball valve on the hose and would run it around 30%.

I would suggest a pump like the eheim compact 5000+ or a compact 3000. 

Looks good so far!


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## sig (Dec 13, 2010)

if I see correctly you have all 3 drain intakes lines under water. if it is the case you will need commercial pump to keep up with 3" drain

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## sig (Dec 13, 2010)

one more thing regarding skimmer. i owned to Octopuses and they were very sensitive about constant water level.

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## garwood (Oct 27, 2012)

sig said:


> if I see correctly you have all 3 drain intakes lines under water. if it is the case you will need commercial pump to keep up with 3" drain


hey, all three end about an inch below water line but its the bean animal drain setup and only the drainline with the valve is under siphon the second is an open channel and the third is just a dry pipe backup. when i had the 9.5 hooked up i did a test run and it performed flawlessly to my surprise.lol.... the skimmer section has a constant water level and i built the stand for it so it sits at optimal water depth i hope. i read alot about skimmers and that is what i understood to about these skimmers.


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## garwood (Oct 27, 2012)

altcharacter said:


> A 1262 is definitely to big for a 65g and you would need to dial it down quite a bit. I was using Paul's 1262 on a 65g and I put a ball valve on the hose and would run it around 30%.
> 
> I would suggest a pump like the eheim compact 5000+ or a compact 3000.
> 
> Looks good so far!


hi, i got the 1262 from reefsupplies.ca cause the mag that i first got from them was too loud(something wrong) and they offered me to upgrade to comparible eheim because they were "luckily" out of stock on the mags. I have it t-off back to the sump for the extra flow and a reactor or 2 in near future. I was looking at the compact 5000 but i dont think it has the head pressure i needed. Its 5.5 ft to top of tank with a couple of 90s, 45s, union , ballvalve, etc so my head pressure is getting up there. when i get it hooked back up ill let you know how it works out. thanx


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## garwood (Oct 27, 2012)

so im in thee process now of bleaching and acid washing my pukani rock and im goin to soak them in ro water for a week and hope by then they are ready for the tank. I found them not to dirty. I power washed them before bleaching and not much junk came out. Anyway what im asking is while the rock is soaking in ro would it be worthwhile to run the tank in ro water since i got time to help get any unwanted residue out then drain before i add the final salt water. My ro system should be here hopefully tomorrow. Also any opinions on test kits and hydrometers. thanks, you guys and this site has been very helpful


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## creature55 (Apr 3, 2014)

Following along! Looks like you're off to a great start and I admire how deep you've plunged on your first go at saltwater!

So I see you've decided on going with dry rock instead of live rock...any reason in particular?


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## fesso clown (Nov 15, 2011)

The 1262 is fine. I ran a 1262 on my 55 gallon. It's a great quiet pump. You are running a Bean Animal it's easy to match the syphon GPH to the 1262. YOu can put a valve at the pump, a ball valve works fine. Most people set up their return line with a valve anyway like this :
Pump>short piece of spaflex to reduce vibration>Ball valve>Union > more spaflex > hard PVC









You can also build a simple manifold and run reactors and even divert water back to the sump.


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## garwood (Oct 27, 2012)

emathieu55 said:


> Following along! Looks like you're off to a great start and I admire how deep you've plunged on your first go at saltwater!
> 
> So I see you've decided on going with dry rock instead of live rock...any reason in particular?


I decided on the dry rock because i really liked the look of the pukani rock. and now that i have it im really glad i got it. Super porous, very light, and the pieces are just awesome looking and huge. I also got it at a good price while it was on special. I also wanted to control what went into the tank from the start. its alittle bit of work to get it ready but i think it will be worth itin the end. Plus i enjoy the aquascaping aspect of this hobby and with the dry rock i can take my time playing around with it


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## garwood (Oct 27, 2012)

fesso clown said:


> The 1262 is fine. I ran a 1262 on my 55 gallon. It's a great quiet pump. You are running a Bean Animal it's easy to match the syphon GPH to the 1262. YOu can put a valve at the pump, a ball valve works fine. Most people set up their return line with a valve anyway like this :
> Pump>short piece of spaflex to reduce vibration>Ball valve>Union > more spaflex > hard PVC
> 
> 
> ...


I like your manifold setup. im planning to do something similar. i already got the return line t'd off back to the sump with a ball valve so in the near future i can plumb it so i can add a reactor(s) etc.


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