# Melted plastic on inside of light hood



## RebeccaV (Dec 30, 2010)

I recently purchased two used 10 gallon tanks to use for my future bettas, one will be a divided tank, and the other is the breeding tank. Anyways, in the light hood of one tank, the plastic holder which sits above the two incandescent bulbs has melted *significantly*. It's all brown and burnt and bubbly looking. I will post pictures later as I don't really know the technical words for what I'm trying to describe, and I might have just confused everyone with that description.

Is it safe to still use this hood? Is there any way to replace the socket/plastic piece that sits in there? I'm open do DIY ideas as well. Thanks!


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## Jackson (Jan 30, 2009)

I still use mine with no issues. I can't see it so it does not bother me lol the two I have are also for ten's. They are probably 15 years old. One of them no longer has a switch that works thanks to the salt. So I use a tooth pick to turn it on lol. Oh and directly above the bulb there is no more plastic lol

I can't think of an easy solution. That's why I never bothered with them. I personally don't think it's worth the time or effort trying to instal new plastic.


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## RebeccaV (Dec 30, 2010)

Well that's good news! As long as I'm not going to burn down the house, I'm happy with just leaving it! Thanks!


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## Jackson (Jan 30, 2009)

RebeccaV said:


> Well that's good news! As long as I'm not going to burn down the house, I'm happy with just leaving it! Thanks!


Oh I hope not 

I just said to my self what are the chances. I even asked my father to give me his opinion and he said it should be fine. I really dont see that thin layer of ordinary plastic stopping a fire from occurring. Just don't exceed the max wattage ( if that's a word )


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## Greg_o (Mar 4, 2010)

Jackson said:


> Just don't exceed the max wattage


That would be key.


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## Tbird (Oct 5, 2009)

I have one like that too. It still works fine. The switch on one of mine doesn't work either so I just use a timer.


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## BillD (Jun 5, 2006)

If you are using CFLs heat is less of an issue, but the reflective capability is lost. You can line it with thin aluminum such as used for flashing or even a pop or beer can. the melting/burning is a common occurrance with incandescent bulbs.


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## bae (May 11, 2007)

This happens when people use incandescent bulbs with a higher than recommended wattage, and/or block the ventilation slots. These fixtures are usually marked with maximum wattage, but the sticker may have fallen off, or embossed text may have melted off the plastic.

I suggest you use CFL bulbs, two 9 watt bulbs should be fine. If the plastic has melted down so there isn't room for the CFLs, grind it down with a file or sandpaper. You can paint the burned plastic with white paint. Careful using metal near the sockets, or anything that can abrade wires. And don't block the ventilation slots!


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## UnderTheSea (Jun 2, 2008)

As others have said you should be fine, just don't exceed the wattage recommended.

If you can find someone that has any left over hammertone in your area you can put this above the bulb for a reflector.

Hammertone Supplier in the West End

Hope this helps


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## Norman (Feb 13, 2011)

I have one that cracked and melted a bit with a fluorescent fixture, is that safe to use? I thought I smelled something funny when it was plugged in the last time...


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## tom g (Jul 8, 2009)

*melted plastic*

canadian tire and home depot sell a tinfoil tape , it should be in the heating and air conditioning isle u can grind the plastic and line the inside of the hood with this tape . it is used in furnaces and ductwork so can handle heat .
tom


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## Chris S (Dec 19, 2007)

I've found that on the coralife fixtures, a melted plastic cover often means the bulbs are running hot, and you will be replacing the bulbs A LOT more often than you should be. Not sure what brand fixture you are using, but the ones I am speaking of are the T5 and T5HO units.


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