# Help Needed: glass lid problem



## zimmy (Aug 30, 2010)

I have a Hagen 110 gallon long tank (72x19 footprint). The tank doesn't have a brace and comes with a glass lid that is a ridiculous design. It has three panels with a sliding door in each panel. To install the thing you seem to have to first slide the glass sheets into the thin plastic support pieces on the floor and then get a couple of people to help you lift the whole thing onto the tank top. Since the tank bows slightly when full the plastic support pieces have to be cut to a size that will not flex when the tank is empty and be big enough to still sit on the lip at the top of the tank when it's full.

The whole thing is very precarious and I've decided not to use it. Has anyone else faced a similar problem and what are some options around this? I'll go with a custom glass lid if necessary but am not sure what to get made due to the absence of the brace and the slight bowing (it's about 1/8").


----------



## BillD (Jun 5, 2006)

It would seem that you have an E channel setup and you are having problems with the E channel shifting. I like E channel setups better than hinges, myself. However, if you don't have a brace to sit them on, they can be problematic. I would consider adding a couple of glass braces to sit under the E channel pieces. Of course it is nice to have a tank that is fully open with easy access. Alternatively you could place the braces loosely on the plastic trim or silicone them to the rim when the tank is full. For this, you could use thinner glass than if you were siliconing glass braces in.


----------



## Riceburner (Mar 14, 2008)

my hagen does it as well. I have to lift the center channel up when I start a WC or the reduced pressure on the glass pushes the E-channel into a bow. I'm going to cut some glass lids to sit on top the trim....or keep moving the center channel every week.


----------



## zimmy (Aug 30, 2010)

"E channel set-up!" I didn't know that's what this type of top is called. Makes sense.

BillD, why do you like this set-up more than the hinged type lids? I've only had the E-channel so don't know how it compares to anything else (I also have a Hagen 15 gallon tank and on this the E-channel works great).

I'm thinking of going with a custom made top consisting of three sections: a sold glass piece forming a center panel and two hinged glass pieces on each side of the solid panel. The two pieces on the side would partially rest on the center panel. The middle piece would have to be cut to a size that fits the tank when it's half full so that it doesn't bow (or break!) when the tank is emptied.

The side panels would only be supported on three sides. They would be unsupported at the back of the tank to allow for a 1-2" gap for the tubes, etc. going into the tank.

Any feedback on this design?


----------



## peterpd99 (Oct 18, 2010)

I think thats not a bad idea to have three sections like what you'd mentioned...IMO...I believe it is wise to somehow add a center brace....over time it will work out better...I've seen tanks having the center portion with a slight curve??


----------



## 4rdguy (Nov 27, 2010)

http://www.gtaaquaria.com/showthread.php?t=20497

Look at that thread. I made that glass lid for my 125 gallon and I love it. Works great. The two centre sections I did cut and make hinged so the can open for easier feeding and WCs.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Riceburner (Mar 14, 2008)

link no workie...

this is the parts that are used in the E channel









You have sliding lids instead of lifting. I like em too, except for the bowing of the center piece.


----------



## BillD (Jun 5, 2006)

What I don't like about the hinge is you are fighting it to stay open (at least with the one I have.) The single centre piece idea will also work. You can still remove it to have the top totally open to work on.


----------



## zimmy (Aug 30, 2010)

BillD said:


> What I don't like about the hinge is you are fighting it to stay open (at least with the one I have.) The single centre piece idea will also work. You can still remove it to have the top totally open to work on.


Having the top totally open to work with is important to me.

4rdguy the link to your thread doesn't work for some reason but I was able to track down your thread. Very helpful and it looks great! I'm curious why you decided to go with two center pieces (the ones labelled "C") instead of one?

Since I want to maintain access to the whole tank, instead of attaching glass braces, I was thinking of siliconing some glass strips to the underside of the center panel. These strips would be attached to each side at the edge of the center panel (not flush) so that they form a ledge that my side panels can rest on. This way the whole top would be nice and flat. Hope that makes sense.

Any feedback?


----------



## zimmy (Aug 30, 2010)

peterpd99 said:


> I think thats not a bad idea to have three sections like what you'd mentioned...IMO...*I believe it is wise to somehow add a center brace*....over time it will work out better...I've seen tanks having the center portion with a slight curve??


I don't know how I would do that at this point (assuming you're talking about a real brace that prevents bowing, not a glass brace).


----------



## BillD (Jun 5, 2006)

I think your idea is actually a good one, zimmy. Having your tops sit on the ledge would contain them.


----------

