# Do you have a 2-1/4" glass holesaw?



## PureHash (Nov 29, 2012)

Hello fellow GTA aquaria members. 

I am starting to design my 75gs piping system v2 lol, to anyone reading this thinking of going with an "over the back overflow" just drill your tank, you will not be disapointed..

That being said, I don't have a glass holesaw..  when I built my 15gnano, I borrowed a 1-1/4" bit off my friend Jim at my LFS (thanks Jim ) but that was the only one he had, and he used it to drill all thw tanks in his store, but he didn't use a "propper" bulkhead, so for 1" pipe he only needed 1-1/4 hole.

I will be using propper bulkheads, and spending more money due to my OCD... And I would like to avoid buying a bit that I am going to use once. (I'm also very cheap )

If there is anyone out there with a 2-1/4" glass drillbit that they would be willing to lend (or rent) to another saltie In the Brampton, Mississauga, Oakville regons, It would be greatly appreciated 

PS: I would treat your drill bit like a child, and can assure you, it will not run dry, and will not be returned all burnt up  I don't need the bit right away, because my 75 is currently running brackish, with full stock. So drilling is gonna be some time away after I collect all of my plumbing, and sump parts. I just like to think one step ahead you know?.

Thanks in advance guys, it would be a real bonus for me 

Kyle.


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## altcharacter (Jan 10, 2011)

It really is just easier to go to Princess Auto to pick up the bit. I looked for a few weeks for a bit through forum members but it was an oddball size. In the end I went to Princess Auto and picked one up for $14. 

If $14 is going to break the bank, you might be in the wrong hobby


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## fesso clown (Nov 15, 2011)

How big are you planning to make your drains? That seems really big. You will be absolutely fine with 1 inch drains. If you are doing 2 inch drains you will have WAY too much flow! Even 1.5 for a 75 is lots.


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## 50seven (Feb 14, 2010)

I think that size hole is for an 1 1/2" bulkhead.

I used an 1 1/2" bulkhead for my Durso drain. Not overkill IMHO. Means that no fish/ snails/ debris will get stuck in there and make a clog.


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## fesso clown (Nov 15, 2011)

For a durso it's perfect, I believe he's doing a Bean Animal which will be full syphon. At a 30 inch head hight a 1.5 inch drain will yield about 4000 gph. 
You could do 1.5 inch and close your gate valve (be sure you get a gate valve for this system) to match your pump speed. I have a 60g tank and have a 3/4 inch drain, my gate is slightly closed to match my Ehiem 1262 (900 gph) with some flow diverted to my fuge.


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## 50seven (Feb 14, 2010)

fesso clown said:


> For a durso it's perfect, I believe he's doing a Bean Animal which will be full syphon. At a 30 inch head hight a 1.5 inch drain will yield about 4000 gph.
> You could do 1.5 inch and close your gate valve (be sure you get a gate valve for this system) to match your pump speed. I have a 60g tank and have a 3/4 inch drain, my gate is slightly closed to match my Ehiem 1262 (900 gph) with some flow diverted to my fuge.


Yeah, that's too much for a Bean.


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## PureHash (Nov 29, 2012)

Thought it would cost way more than 14$.

To clear things up, yes, I am doing a bean animal.
No, a am not using 1.5", I will be using 1" I am not using standar aquarium bulkheads because standardized fittings are near impossible to match with those. I don't like buying "aquarium" anything because the price seems to double.. For instance, a light. An aquarium T5 at 48" is like 3-500$.
The same light, if not better, for hydroponics, is 125$.. Same spectrum bulbs, same actinics, same everything... And you save a lot of money..

A "reactor" is 80$ give or take. 
A filter cartrage housing for home applications, is 25$. 
Another 2$ for a 8" piece of 3/4" pvc, and a small disk of acrylic with some holes drilled, and I have a "reactor" that is just as good at the store bought, but I save 50$.. Same goes with a calcium reactor. F*** paying 800$(with out CO2) for something I could build complete for 150-200$

That being said, I'm using a plumbing style bulkhead, they are twice as strong, and have standard fittings. 

Anything you find in an aquarium store can be found in a plumbing store for half the cost. For instance, I called BA, "how much for a 3/4" gatevalve?" My answer?.... 95$.... Online, 25$ free shipping.. 

So far I have been getting away with ballvalves, but this is because of the head weight of the water being syphoned out, it kind of self balances.
This may be a bit difficult to do with a meer 5" or less water head height.
But worst case, and I need a gatevalve, I can assure you, it won't be from a fish store.


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## altcharacter (Jan 10, 2011)

I like your cheapness!! Seems legit


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## Chromey (Sep 25, 2010)

AS much as i like saving money, I think your wrong on the lighting.

Please show me a 125$ Hydroponic light that is JUST as good if not better as a 3-500$ aquarium light. I few more factors are involved then Just Bulbs, Unless its a fish only set-up you wish too have.

Alot of plumbing parts from a plumbing outfitter has antibacterial agents in them, Unless your using sch40/80.

Lastly "I called BA".... Hence the huge price issues.


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## altcharacter (Jan 10, 2011)

This is true about lighting. Most T5HO setups are fairly rust proof since the companies know the light is going to be used in that type of environment.

And yes BA's is a ripoff. I once saw a piece of pulsing xenia there for $79. If anyone out there wants to buy some xenia for half that price give me a shout


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## PureHash (Nov 29, 2012)

The other day I bought a 78" T5, the new single ended style, 2 14000k 2 actinic blue. Full digital timer built in. 55$ the problem, 1 blown ballast. 20$ fix, = 500$ light, for 75$. I can't get a picture because the light it currently up north..

Unfortunately 78" is to big for me... Twice to big...
You can think I'm wrong, or bullshitting you, but if you know where to look, you'll save bigtime.. ALSO. You have to realize, 100w is 100w, is 100w, doesn't matter if its in china, russia, germany, or canada. Same goes with colour temps. 14,000k is 14,000k the "german built" 14,000k 100w is IDENTICAL to the japanese 14,000k 100w...

Those LED lights that people pay well over 500$ for in the aquarium stores make me laugh... Ur paying over 500$ for what.. 50 leds? 50$ worth of leds?
A 1w LED is 1$. 14,000k, is 14,000k.. Blue 450nm is blue 450nm... Doesn't matter what part of the world your from... And lastly a transformer is say 35$

So again, for 75$ you could build the ssame thing, if not better then what the store is selling you.. I'm not saying go to "rapid LED" either, cuz there a fucking rip that put the word reef, and sell for 15x to much..

I know a fair bit on electricity, and I know a 1w led, is a 1w led... There's no "good ones" or "bad ones" there's different wattages... And different spectrums.. That's it.... If you know how much wattage you need, in what spectrum, the you shouldn't ever need to buy a "reef" light.


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## PureHash (Nov 29, 2012)

The ony issue you may have with buying cheaper leds, is knowing if they are actually the colour temp they say they are.. But if you trust the seller, then things should be fine.

It would suck to order 14,000k cool white, and end up with 2500k warm white lol.. But that's what feedback is for!!


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## PureHash (Nov 29, 2012)

My homemade led light for my nano is full aluminum, rust proof, 20,000k 30w, at 2700lm (it'll give u sunburn)

Cost?

20$


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## altcharacter (Jan 10, 2011)

When you're in the east end come on over and I'll show you the difference between a coralife bulb, an ATI bulb, and a OEM bulb that your fixture comes with. All will be 22k but believe me...you'll notice.

If you buy a dodge caravan, of course it will get you to work just like any other car. Although a cadillac would be a much more comfy ride and you'll feel better when you get to work since your butt will be warm.

Just putting "enough" light is, of course, alright. Although if you wanted to have your tank appreciate what you do for it then you would go with proven (not higher end) equipment. 

A coralife skimmer works fine...but ask any of the guys on this forum if they'd rather have a coralife skimmer or a reef octopus...regardless of price.


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## PureHash (Nov 29, 2012)

Your talking flourecent, I will be using LED.

And I know what your talking about, and that's lumens. My single LED puts out 2700 lumens. That's a rediculous number for 1 single led.

How many lumens does one of your single T5's put out? 1200lm max maybe?
I will be running 6 of these 30w leds for a total of 16,200 lumens. 
The difference between your bulbs is the brightness, or the lumens, right?

So if I have the right spectrum, and the right amount of lumens, its just as good as any other right?..


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## PureHash (Nov 29, 2012)

Coral really only cares about colour temp (spectrum) and intensity, right?
Ill throw a couple reds in with my actinics, and ill have "full spectrum"

EDIT:

What if I could "proove" this meathod?


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## fesso clown (Nov 15, 2011)

I think you have neglected to consider build quality but you are correct products rapidly and often carelessly assembled with cheap material, cheap labour and no quality assurance and certainly no pride ARE less expensive. 
I assure you that a bulb is not a bulb, go take Dave up on his offer and see for your self. When I had a T5HO light the OEM bulbs it came with lasted half as long as the expensive German bulbs I replaced them with. 
I build a DIY LED kit (not rapid) and I ordered it with one expensive driver and one "cheap" one. The expensive driver (German Factory) worked the cheap Driver (Chinese Factory) had constant problems. 
When a ballest says 100W on it, it doesn't always mean that it can safely push 100W 12 hours a day. 
Do you buy tools at the dollar store? How long do they last? 

I am happy to pay a little extra for a product that is built well with some care . Over time it's actually cheaper.


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## RR37 (Nov 6, 2012)

Dude. I can tell you don't like being told your wrong from the tone you take in text. But please... Don't argue with the good advice you're being provided. 

I was going to respond to a number of quotes but time comes at a premium right now. One of the many reasons people pay a premium for quality. Not everyone has time to tinker with things that need not be tinkered with.

Some of the concepts you critique are sound and have been for years. Your take on things indicate you haven't spent 30 seconds reading about them. Do some reading, it will answer most of the questions that you will have but haven't asked yet.


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## PureHash (Nov 29, 2012)

I'm going LED.

Clearly you don't know to much about electricity.

There's really no such thing as a "driver".. Its a transformer with a potentiomiter. Also clearly your leds where drawing more then your "driver" could handle. I will be running a 10a "driver" for 4a worth of LED(at a full 36v). I will not have issues getting the brightness I need. You were drawing more amps then your driver could handle or your "driver" wasn't supplying enough voltage., causing a dimmed affect.

A led, IS an LED. First off a LED is not a light, its a diode, built to allow electricity pass one way. The difference between a diode, and an LED is the LED has a biproduct of light when electricity passes. There's no difference from 1 LED to another beside the amount of current it draws, and the colour of its lens, it turn giving you different spectrums.

I don't meen to be offensive, I may be new to reefs, but electronics, I could teach you a thing or two.

I don't dissagree, flouressent bulbs can vary depending on the amount of murcury in the bulb, or the pressure the argon gas is in the bulb. All of these thing can make a difference between bulbs, but a 1a LED, is a 1a LED is a 1a LED... The only think that can change there is the spektrum or colour temp... And 14,000k is ideal right?...(And 450nm BLUE actinic right??) If I dial my voltage back I will get a dimmer light.. If I'm running them at full blown 36v at 4amp, it will give you sunburn..


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## RR37 (Nov 6, 2012)

No, you have been misinformed about LEDs. At a minimum you have taken a brief generalization and run with it. While I'm sure you know electronix real good making an assumption like the above makes you sound like a twat. Best luck reinventing the wheel.



PureHash said:


> I'm going LED.
> 
> Clearly you don't know to much about electricity.
> 
> ...


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## PureHash (Nov 29, 2012)

Curious, what's a 1000w HQI system go for in a "aquarium" application?

I have 4 of them, payed 20$ ea, they all work. If you take out the "ignitor" relay, they can easily be used as a 1000w HPS too. Working in HVAC is easy to get our tinsmith to make me a professional hood, that would work great.

Not using it, don't want a chiller.

If I did, I would most deffinetly build my own chiller.


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## PureHash (Nov 29, 2012)

RR37 said:


> No, you have been misinformed about LEDs. At a minimum you have taken a brief generalization and run with it.


Who tought you about leds? The same guy who explain all about "drivers?" Lol.

Any thing electrical will only draw what it needs, so a 1a led will draw 1a, you regulate the voltage to dim the lights.. 28-36v "driver" is an ac-dc transformer that puts out 36v dc. The potentiomiter regulates the voltage down to 28,(dimmed).. If your lights (in total) draw 4a, and you have a 2a transformer, it will overheat. If you have a 10a transformer, it will not overheat. If its a 24v transformer, you will obviously have a shitty light.. If you have a 36v transformer, rated for 10a, your lights will only draw 4a, and your transformer will not overheat.

This difference between your crappy "driver" and your "German" one (btw I'm German, making mine "German built") is your crappy one was either to low amperage, causing excessive heat, in turn more resistance, and your light would dim out over the day, or it just plainly wasn't putting out the voltage that the leds required. Aslo causing a dimmed affect.

Your "German" "driver" is simply a higher amperage transformer with a potentioniter set to the full voltage your leds require.
And you payed out the ass probably.

I can put together my own transformer rated for 10adc, and set it with a potetiomiter for a full 28-36v (my leds max voltage) and I will have "happy LEDs" thriving on all those amps, and volts, providing me with beutiful lumens 

My question (if I asked one) what would the best spekrum be, 14,000. 20,000, or 445nm, 470nm?

I am taking and loving people advise about things I am unsure of, but I know how to power my leds, its a hobby I've had long before fishtanks.
My unsure ares would be things like where to drill the best overflows, or the best sump designs, etc.. I'm new(ish) to that, but I do know what I'm doing when it comes to powering my accessories..


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## fesso clown (Nov 15, 2011)

PureHash said:


> I'm going LED.
> Clearly you don't know to much about electricity.


Clearly you don't know *too* much about grammar, or am I making a big assumption? 


PureHash said:


> There's really no such thing as a "driver".. Its a transformer with a potentiomiter. Also clearly your leds where drawing more then your "driver" could handle. I will be running a 10a "driver" for 4a worth of LED(at a full 36v). I will not have issues getting the brightness I need. You were drawing more amps then your driver could handle or your "driver" wasn't supplying enough voltage., causing a dimmed affect.


"Driver" is what they are "called". It's a common term. 
Sometimes a cheap "driver" claims to be able to handle a certain amount of power but because they are cheap they can not over time. Do you buy your power bars and extension cords from the dollar store? 


PureHash said:


> A led, IS an LED. First off a LED is not a light, its a diode, built to allow electricity pass one way. The difference between a diode, and an LED is the LED has a biproduct of light when electricity passes. There's no difference from 1 LED to another beside the amount of current it draws, and the colour of its lens, it turn giving you different spectrums.


Thanks for the lesson but you're still ignoring build quality. Factory A is not the same as Factory B. 


PureHash said:


> I don't meen to be offensive, I may be new to reefs, but electronics, I could teach you a thing or two.


No offense taken and maybe, I am always willing to listen. 


PureHash said:


> I don't dissagree, flouressent bulbs can vary depending on the amount of murcury in the bulb, or the pressure the argon gas is in the bulb. All of these thing can make a difference between bulbs, but a 1a LED, is a 1a LED is a 1a LED... The only think that can change there is the spektrum or colour temp... And 14,000k is ideal right?...(And 450nm BLUE actinic right??) If I dial my voltage back I will get a dimmer light.. If I'm running them at full blown 36v at 4amp, it will give you sunburn..


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## Chromey (Sep 25, 2010)

Ohhh Boy, Another one of these members...

Backing away Slowly....


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## RR37 (Nov 6, 2012)

Chromey said:


> Ohhh Boy, Another one of these members...
> 
> Backing away Slowly....


lol, I'm with you. I'm holding my laptop over my head to make myself seem taller.


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## altcharacter (Jan 10, 2011)

Just a note to everyone, just calm down a bit. If PureHash doesn't want to listen to advice from other members that have gone thru what he's doing...it's his choice. There's no reason to try to beat useful information into his head if he doesn't want it.

This is why we call it advice. 

Good luck with your build dude and give us a shout in a year or so when you upgrade to a new system.


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## fesso clown (Nov 15, 2011)

PureHash said:


> Who tought you about leds? The same guy who explain all about "drivers?" Lol.


I am "that guy" (and I doubt I teach RR37 much about reefing) who mentioned "drivers" and the disparaging difference between one that was well built and cost a little more and a piece of crap "driver" that cost less and claimed to be able to handle THE EXACT SAME amount of power. 
I said no offence before in my earlier post before reading this and to honest, I am feeling a little offended. "Lol"



PureHash said:


> (btw I'm German, making mine "German built")


No kidding.



PureHash said:


> This difference between your crappy "driver" and your "German" one
> is your crappy one was either to low amperage, causing excessive heat, in turn more resistance, and your light would dim out over the day, or it just plainly wasn't putting out the voltage that the leds required. Aslo causing a dimmed affect.


The difference is one was built in Factory A with care, solid materials, costs more and does what it says and the other was built in Factory B with less care, sub standard materials and costs less.



PureHash said:


> Your "German" "driver" is simply a higher amperage transformer with a potentioniter set to the full voltage your leds require.
> And you payed out the ass probably.


Do you mean quality parts and assembly? Then the answer is yes. Did I pay out my ass? No once I factor in the cost on having to replace the cheap one within a month and factor in that I decided to eventually pay out my ass for a Radion. *STOP RIGHT THERE*... I know I am a sucker, no need for you to tell me... but damn, I love my light.
Good luck building anything that comes close to a quality light yourself cheap. Do you factor your time into the equation? How much do you as an "electrical expert" expect to get paid an hour to work? Times that to the # of hours it takes you to build... Just saying....



PureHash said:


> My question (if I asked one) what would the best spekrum be, 14,000. 20,000, or 445nm, 470nm?


All of the above. Add some red and green in too while you're at it.



PureHash said:


> I am taking and loving people advise about things I am unsure of, but I know how to power my leds, its a hobby I've had long before fishtanks.


Pimping out the underside of Honda CRX's?









EDIT: Yes I know that's not a CRX


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