# Room for improvements?



## IvanD (Sep 29, 2013)

Hi Everyone,

I just wanted to post and get some ideas on where I may need to change or improve my current setup. Maybe I've done something wrong that could cause me an issue in the future. I figured that since this is my first ever marine tank there must be something I could change for the better, or maybe I did wrong completely.

I set this tank up just before the October thanksgiving. My cycle went really quick and my parameters have been stable Am: 0 Nitrite: 0 Nitrate: 5 Salinity: 1.024. I've been testing 2-3 times a week to be sure. I've also been doing 15% water changes every other week. 

Also if anyone had any thoughts on the AI Hydras? I was planning on buying 2 with the AI director controller in the next couple of weeks.

Thanks to everyone in this community who helped with all the info and getting going. Big thanks to Bayinaung who provided me the live rock for a decent price, its really doing well for my system as the coralline seems to be spreading on my dry rock quite well. 

Happy reefing and thanks again


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## tom g (Jul 8, 2009)

*tank*

looks good .....not sure what to comment on . is there anything u are not happy with . equip or livestock wise . is it running quiet and smoothe or are u having any probls with anything , looks good from pics but I don't have the experience to pick out probs as I am still learing from my set up .
looks good to me maybe someone else can give u a more in depth look
cheers 
tom


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## IvanD (Sep 29, 2013)

The one thing I continue to struggle with is get the overflow flow lined up with the return which in turn makes it louder then I'd like. I can't seem to dial in the flow right so it maintains the same water level in the tank where is completely silent. 
It seems I need to slow down the flow but every time I do its too much and I'm nervous to adjust it too much and then come home with an over flowing tank.

If anyone has any tips on dialling the herby overflow method I'm definitely struggling with that.


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## ameekplec. (May 1, 2008)

What overflow set up are you using? Looks like you're running a modified herbie (full open emerg/flow restricted main), but then I noticed you're running a small overflow box, so I'm guessing you're not.

It might be a difficult conversion, but look into a durso - basically, introducing some air into the overflow in order to normalize flow rates through the plumbing. That should help you maintain constant water levels.

Also, I would either add 6" of sand to the refugium for a deep sand bed, or eliminate all the sand, as it's a huge detrius trap. 

Also, slow down on stocking


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## jd81 (Dec 16, 2011)

It looks like you are using a ball valve on the drain.

Switching to a gate valve will make it easier for you to fine tune the flow.


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## IvanD (Sep 29, 2013)

Thanks for the info Ameekplec, I thought what I had setup was a herby overflow, does that not have an overflow box? 
I like your idea with the durso, just googled it. If I'm looking at the pics right all I would need is to replace my right elbow on the outside bulk head with a T and then just add an airline, does that sound right? It would definitely be an easy change on a water change day todo....if thats all there is.

Whats the difference between having 2-3 inches of sandbed as opposed to 6 inches? Wouldn't it still be a detritus trap?

As for stocking I have definitely stopped now for sometime. I want to spend some cash on the system aka. lighting and fine tuning. Though I did add the livestock a little at a time and never seen my water parameters spike so I thought it was ok if I added a fish here and there.


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## IvanD (Sep 29, 2013)

I think I looked at the Lowes close to me when I was first putting it together for the gate valves and they did have them, have a recommended place to find them ?


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## fesso clown (Nov 15, 2011)

Keep your overflow the way it is and just switch out the ball valve for a gate valve and you will be able to dial it in with no trouble at all. 
You can't get gate valves at Lowes. I got mine at JJ Downs on Bering Ave. 
Gate valves are not cheap but you pretty much need one for a Herbie.


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## IvanD (Sep 29, 2013)

Well looks like the consensus is gate valve then I'll definitely look into these then. So these gate valves though will have the same threading and such so I can just unscrew the ones I have on my unions now and swap out right? 

Oh i forgot to mention in my original post, regarding water test kits and such. What do you guys use? Are the digital ones any good or should you stay away from them? I currently use sachem and API test kits (not test strips)


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## Steel_Wind (Oct 26, 2013)

The AI Sols, Hydras and Vegas are all very nice lights and the director sounds cool if you do not have an Apex or RKL with the light module. 

For all that, I would suggest you look at the Kessil A360w Tuna Blue. They are also fully controllable with either the Apex or Reefkeeper and appear gorgeous with a shimmer effect no other light can do. Check it out on Youtube. I am quite smitten with the lamp and plan to order one next week.

When the owner of BRS who can afford to put any light in his office Aquarium he wants selects the Kessil A360 for his own custom tank -- that's a good indication that it is a rather elite product, imo.

Check out the reviews on BRS.tv and Mr. Saltwater Tank's coverage on the Kessil. There is a 15% more light versoon announced last week that ships next week (the "A360W-E" version) so either the price on current inventory of the current 360N & 360W will drop or at least you might want the brighter "Enhanced" version at the same price.

Pricey light in the same top end of market competing with the Hydra and Vega. The Kessil lamp is under A360N with the wider illumination lens being the "W" version of the lamp. Sells online at all the usual places for $449.

If you don't care about hooking it up to a controller, the 350 is the same light without that feature for $399.

__________________
.Robert


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## ameekplec. (May 1, 2008)

IvanD said:


> Thanks for the info Ameekplec, I thought what I had setup was a herby overflow, does that not have an overflow box?
> I like your idea with the durso, just googled it. If I'm looking at the pics right all I would need is to replace my right elbow on the outside bulk head with a T and then just add an airline, does that sound right? It would definitely be an easy change on a water change day todo....if thats all there is.
> 
> Whats the difference between having 2-3 inches of sandbed as opposed to 6 inches? Wouldn't it still be a detritus trap?
> ...


The first pic made me think you're running a "slim" overflow. I'm now assuming that it's not - and that you're running one as a full open emerg overflow, and another as a flow-restricted main drain? As suggested, the gate valve will help you tune the drain flow, but a ball valve on the return pump will also help you tune the amount of water going back up.

For the refug, a deep sand bed can help with nitrate breakdown, but will also collect detrius. 2-3" won't give you the same nitrate breakdown, but will collect detrius.


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## IvanD (Sep 29, 2013)

I do like those Kessil lights, I watched the vid when BRS visited their booth and talked about them. They definitely look awesome my problem is the girlfriend doesn't want any lights outside the tank. I need the clearance so i need a thinner light that I can some how attach to my canopy. It's definitely going to take some doing but I'm sure I can figure it out, I'm pretty handy like that.
I don't think my canopy would be big enough height wise to put kessil lights in. They're also my max budget wise is $420 per light. I know AI also just updated they're hydra model with a smaller heatsink so the newer hydra is now thinner. The GF is also putting in some money to upgrade the lighting so she definitely has a say...damn! lol


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## IvanD (Sep 29, 2013)

Oh Awesome ok I will definitely get more sand then and drop another 3 inches in there, or maybe I can find someone on here willing to donate a few lbs, I really don't need much to get 3 more inches. (Thats what she said)...I couldn't help it  lmao
Valve on the return pump though, would that not put stress on the pump and shorten the life if I were to restrict flow? I honestly thought that was an issue or I'll be doing that for sure!



ameekplec. said:


> The first pic made me think you're running a "slim" overflow. I'm now assuming that it's not - and that you're running one as a full open emerg overflow, and another as a flow-restricted main drain? As suggested, the gate valve will help you tune the drain flow, but a ball valve on the return pump will also help you tune the amount of water going back up.
> 
> For the refug, a deep sand bed can help with nitrate breakdown, but will also collect detrius. 2-3" won't give you the same nitrate breakdown, but will collect detrius.


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## rburns24 (Jan 31, 2011)

You have the same over flow set up as I do, and a gate valve will not solve the problem. The only difference it will make, is when the tank overflows, you will be able to say you had a gate valve on your drain pipe instead of a ball valve.

What you need to do is change the elbow that is connected to the overflow to a T fitting. That way the air that comes in with the water has some place to escape to and you can maintain the flow that you have adjusted it to.

If you valve it with the elbow in place instead of a T fitting, air will get eventually get trapped in the elbow and this will cut down on the amount of water that can go through the elbow. This water that can't go through the elbow will end up on the floor.

I haven't gotten around to changing mine yet because it's not very noisy. When I first setup the tank I tried to valve it down to make it quieter and had a few very close calls. I would run fine for 5 minutes or so, and then suddenly the water would be rising in tank and I'd have to quickly open the valve so the water level in the overlow would drop and the air could get flushed out. Hope this helps.


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## Steel_Wind (Oct 26, 2013)

IvanD said:


> I do like those Kessil lights, I watched the vid when BRS visited their booth and talked about them. They definitely look awesome my problem is the girlfriend doesn't want any lights outside the tank. I need the clearance so i need a thinner light that I can some how attach to my canopy. It's definitely going to take some doing but I'm sure I can figure it out, I'm pretty handy like that.
> I don't think my canopy would be big enough height wise to put kessil lights in. They're also my max budget wise is $420 per light. I know AI also just updated they're hydra model with a smaller heatsink so the newer hydra is now thinner. The GF is also putting in some money to upgrade the lighting so she definitely has a say...damn! lol


I think you are going to have _*real problems*_ then with LEDs no matter what you do. Minimum mounting distance is 8"-10" from water surface on pretty much all of the higher end lights.

You might point out to her that LEDs differ from other bulbs in that the light direction is lensed and far more directional with far less light spillage beyond the tank. Depending on the mounts you select, they are also far more attractive than the bulky crap and reflectors that comes with a T5 or Halide solution.

Some lights you want to hide -- some you don't. The high end LEDs fall into the "nice to look at" end of the spectrum in more ways than one.  You might be able to just take the canopy off and keep it off, and install a flat 1/4" window frame netting above the surface to stop the inevitable carpet surfing attempts. The clear netting won't melt under LEDs the way it does under more traditional lighting.


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## advanced reef aquatics (Apr 20, 2009)

As Robert pointed out, you may need a vent, which i dont see, 
I do agree a gate valve will be night and day difference in adjustments,


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## Flexin5 (Nov 12, 2011)

I like my hydra. it gives great spread and grows my zoas very nicely. it's in the middle of two sols and even with the sol heatsink it's still slimmer than a sol.


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## Kweli (Jun 2, 2010)

If you can find a dimmable LED system then you shouldn't have to worry much about mounting height. I have never heard of this "minimum distance" in reference to some of the newer systems that dim. The original generations were full power and fried alot of peoples corals.

Check out evergrow LED's... Theres a Canadian distributor. Should be able to find something in your budget


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