# Sticky  Starting a Planted Tank



## Darkblade48

*Edit: Comments/criticisms/replies are most welcome; I've noticed this thread has 30+ views and not one response from anyone else!*

So you decided you wanted to start a planted tank, after seeing a beautiful aquascape in the AGA contests, or perhaps in one of Takashi Amano's Nature World Aquarium books. Hopefully the guide I'm writing here will serve as a primer to jumpstart you into the world of planted aquaria.

Before starting a planted tank, you first must ask yourself: How much work (and subsequently time and money) do I want to invest into a planted tank? Beginners sometimes forget that many tanks that they see in the AGA contests or Takashi Amano's books are high maintenance tanks (i.e. require weekly pruning).

In essence, planted aquaria can take one of two forms: those that are high light tanks, and those that are low light tanks. Regardless of the type of lighting, algae can become a problem in both types of tanks if proper care and maintenance are not observed. Another question that must be asked at this point is: Do I want a low light (and hence lower maintenance (*not* maintenance free!)) tank, or a higher light (and thus higher maintenance) tank?

In general, there are 3 factors that are required for plant growth:

1) Light
2) Nutrients
3) Carbon dioxide

One can imagine these 3 factors like a triangle; a deficit in one or more of any of these 3 factors will result in an imbalance, allowing algae to take advantage of the situation and begin to flourish and grow.


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## Darkblade48

*Light*

Lighting is an important factor in a planted aquarium. It can be analogized as follows: light is like the accelerator of a car. The more light you have, the faster you are pushing down the accelerator. The less light you have, the less you are pushing down the accelerator. When you are driving faster, you must maintain your car more often, i.e. oil changes, checking your tires, and so forth.

Similarly, in higher lighting conditions, you will be "driving" your plants faster, and they will require more maintenance (i.e. carbon dioxide, nutrients, etc).

A *guideline* that can be used when describing lighting is the "Watt per gallon" (WPG) guideline. This is not a rule per se, but only a guideline (for reasons that will be explained below).

Lighting can be divided into 3 general categories:

1) Low lighting (~ 1 - 1.5 WPG)
2) Medium lighting (2 WPG)
3) High lighting (3+ WPG)

Correspondingly, plants can also be divided into these 3 categories, with "low light" plants being able to tolerate low lighting conditions, and "high light" plants requiring higher lighting conditions. This does not mean that "low light" plants cannot grow in higher lighting, however.

To explain why the WPG is only a guideline, one must consider the origins of it. WPG was originally designed for T12 fluorescent bulbs (i.e. bulbs that are 1.5 inches in diameter, the number after the T indicates the diameter in eighths of an inch). However, with the advent of various types of bulbs, i.e. T8, T5, power compact (PC) lighting, this guideline has become less accurate. In addition, this guideline cannot be applied in very small (10 gallons or less) or very large (maybe 55 gallons or more (ballpark figure)).

For instance, in my 2.5 gallon aquarium, I have two 13W compact fluorescents. This gives a total of 26 watts, corresponding to just over 10 WPG. This might seem suicidal at first (remember, the amount of light drives the amount of plant growth), however, because the WPG guideline is not accurate at small tanks, it turns out my 2.5g nano may fall under the "high light" conditions only (as opposed to "suicidally high light"). If I were to follow the WPG guideline strictly, and have 3 WPG over my 2.5g nano (i.e. 7.5 watts of light), then the tank would be poorly lit, and could only fall under a "low light" setup.

Not only is the amount of lighting critical to a planted tank, but the type of lighting is also important. As mentioned, there are several types of lighting available to the aquarist today (T12, T8, T5, PC, etc). Such bulbs can sometimes be confusing the novice planted aquarist. As a general rule, T8 and T5 are newer and more efficient than the older T12 bulbs. There are two camps of thought, one which prefers PC lighting while the other prefers T5 lighting, but to argue the points of these two types would be beyond the scope of this article.

One must remember that in general, fluorescent bulbs are all subject to a phenomenon called "restrike". In restrike, light that is emitted from the bulb will "restrike" the bulb, reducing the output of effective light. In general, straight fluorescent tubes are less prone to restrike than (say) the spiral power compact bulbs that can be purchased.

For some, the "colour temperature" of the bulb will also be a consideration. Plants in general are not too picky regarding the colour temperature, and some may argue that this point is not necessary, however, I have decided to briefly touch upon this.

In "normal" daylight, the sun is 5500 Kelvin (the unit of measure for colour temperature). Higher colour temperatures will appear bluer, while lower colour temperatures will appear redder. Here are some typical colour temperatures that can be found:

2700K "warm white"
3500K "cool white"
6500K "daylight"

Do keep in mind that light is but one important factor in keeping a successful planted aquarium


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## Darkblade48

*Nutrients*

Another important aspect of the planted aquarium is nutrients.

Plants require macronutrients NPK (nitrogen in the form of nitrates; phosphorus in the form of phosphates; and potassium) amongst other elements. Micronutrients (such as iron, copper, manganese, boron, molybdenum, etc) are also required by plants. It is a common misconception that the addition of phosphates leads to algae; this is *not* true. Phosphates are an important part of plant nutrition and is required by plants to grow successfully. As long as there is a *balance* between nutrient levels, lighting and carbon dioxide, you can have a successful planted aquarium.

There are several ways to provide these nutrients to plants. In a mixed aquarium (i.e. with fish and plants) with few plants, the wastes from fish can sometimes meet the demands of the plants. However, in heavily planted tanks, the demands of the plants can rarely be met by fish wastes alone. As such, supplementation must occur.

Supplementation can be provided via commercially available products (i.e. Seachem makes such a line of products). Alternatively, one can go for the "chemical" approach. Using this approach, various chemicals can be added to the tank in order to provide the nutrients that plants require. For example:

Potassium nitrate (KNO3) provides potassium and nitrates
Potassium dihydrogen phosphate (KH2PO4) provides potassium and phosphates
Potassium sulfate (K2SO4) provides potassium and sulfur (in the form of sulfates)
Magnesium sulfate (MgSO4) provides magnesium and sulfur (in the form of sulfates)
Trace mix provides various trace elements (Iron, Copper, Molybdenum, etc) that are required

In general, the levels that are desired in a planted aquaria are as follows:

Nitrates: ~10 ppm
Phosphates :~ 1-2 ppm
Potassium: ~20 ppm
Iron: ~1 ppm

There are several different regimes that are available today that can be followed in order to dose appropriately. As I did not write these articles, I will simply link to them here.

The estimative index (EI) method of dosing was created by Tom Barr and can be found here: 
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/62-The-Estimative-Index-of-Dosing-or-No-Need-for-Test-Kits
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/2819-EI-light-for-those-less-techy-folks

The PPS-Pro system was developed by Edward and can be found here:
http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/forumapc/pps-analysis-feedback/39491-newbie-guide-pps-pro.html


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## Darkblade48

*Carbon dioxide*

The last major factor in a planted aquarium is carbon dioxide (CO2). In a planted aquarium, typically 30 ppm of CO2 are desirable (see below for measuring CO2).

Carbon is an important element for plants; they require this element in order to grow and propagate (i.e. all organisms on Earth are carbon based!).

Terrestrial plants do not require carbon dioxide, as they are able to meet their carbon needs from the atmospheric air. However in the aquatic environment, levels of CO2 are typically 4 ppm (parts per million), and are insufficient for plant growth in the long run. Recall that in higher light tanks, plants are being driven harder, and as such, carbon dioxide (as well as nutrients, see above) become an essential part of the planted aquarium "triangle".

Sources of carbon can be introduced into the planted tank in 2 ways:

1) Seachem Flourish Excel
Using this method, a commercially available chemical (polycycloglutaracetal) is added to the tank as an alternative source of carbon. Note that this is *not* carbon dioxide, and is only an alternative to carbon dioxide. It is not as effective as carbon dioxide itself, but can work. This method can be used in smaller tanks, but quickly becomes cost prohibitive in larger tanks.

2) Directly injecting CO2
Directly injecting CO2 is the best method of introducing a carbon source into the planted aquarium. One can accomplish this in one of two ways, each has its advantages and disadvantages.

a) DIY (do it yourself) CO2
Using this method, sugar and yeast are mixed into a container. As the yeast begins to feed on the sugar, carbon dioxide is produced as a byproduct of fermentation. This carbon dioxide can be fed into the water, and provides a source of carbon for plants.

Advantages: 
- low initial cost
- effective for smaller tanks
- relatively easy to setup (i.e. not much technical expertise required)

Disadvantages:
- expensive in the long run
- becomes difficult to maintain in tanks larger than 30 gallons (i.e. more than one bottle of DIY CO2 may be required)
- inconsistent production of CO2

An excellent resource for DIY CO2 can be found here:

http://www.qsl.net/w2wdx/aquaria/diyco2.html

b) Pressurized CO2
The second method of introducing carbon dioxide into your tank, this method is preferred for larger tanks where DIY CO2 may not be suitable/too much of a hassle. In this method, a pressurized tank containing CO2 is injected into the aquarium, much like in DIY CO2. The following advantages and disadvantages can be said for pressurized CO2:

Advantages:
- Consistent CO2 flow
- Cheaper in the long run
- Requires less maintenance than DIY CO2

Disadvantages:
- high initial setup cost (i.e. a tank, regulator, needle valve can run upwards of $150; there are also some optional pieces of equipment such as a solenoid, bubble counter, etc)
- some technical expertise is required (i.e. knowledge of how a regulator works)

When introducing CO2 into the planted aquarium, it is also better to fully dissolve the CO2 than to let it bubble off. Dissolving the CO2 ensures that it is available to plants, and not simply out gassed into the atmosphere. Several methods of effectively getting CO2 into the water column exist.

1) Bell Diffuser: A passive method of CO2 diffusion, this relies on the assumption that CO2 will dissolve into the water column faster than the CO2 is produced (not likely). Not an effective method of introducing CO2 into the aquarium.
2) Feeding the CO2 tube into a filter intake: Slightly more efficient, this method allows the CO2 bubbles to be fed into the intake of a filter, allowing the bubbles to be chopped up by the filter impeller. Be warned that this method is said to shorten the lifespan of the filter impeller.
3) Commercially available "bubble ladders": Hagen makes a product that is known as "bubble ladder". This product allows CO2 bubbles to travel a long a track, allowing the CO2 more time to dissolve into the water column. The ladder is quite large and bulky (in my opinion), and some people may find it aesthetically unpleasing.
4) Ceramic disc diffuser: Typically a glass diffuser that contains a ceramic disc with miniature pores. These diffusers were first made by ADA (Aqua Design Amano). Such diffusers rely on the small pores on the ceramic disc to adequately create mini-CO2 bubbles, vastly increasing the rate of CO2 dissolution in water.
5) Inline CO2 reactor: Most arguably the best method of CO2 dissolution, the inline CO2 reactor is inline with a (canister) filter output. Using this method, the CO2 is very effectively dissolved.


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## Darkblade48

*Measuring CO2 levels*

So you have started to inject CO2 into your planted tank, but you are unsure whether you have too much/too little.

If you are injecting too little CO2, there may be the possibility that plants are starved for carbon. If the "triangle" is unbalanced, recall that algae can take over.

Conversely, if you are injecting too much carbon dioxide, it is possible to suffocate your fish/invertebrates. The goal is to find a happy medium between these two extremes (around 30 ppm of CO2 is desirable).

Measuring CO2 can be accomplished in several manners.

1) Electronic CO2 meter
A very expensive piece of equipment, not many aquarists have the budget necessary for one of these pieces of high tech gadgetry.

2) Measuring pH/kH
Measuring pH and kH is a method of determining the amount of CO2 in your aquarium. This method relies on the fact that there exists a relationship between pH, kH and the amount of CO2 that can be dissolved. However, one must keep in mind that this method is only an estimate; there may be other buffers in the water that may skew results from this method.

3) Drop checker
Most likely the newest addition to measuring CO2 levels, a drop checker consists of an airspace between the liquid inside the drop checker and the water in the aquarium. Carbon dioxide readily diffuses outwards from water into the air; as such, the carbon dioxide in the aquarium will readily diffuse into the airspace in the drop checker. The liquid inside the drop checker contains a solution of known kH (i.e. 4 or 5 dkH) with an indicator (bromothymol blue (BTB)) which serves as a good indicator of CO2 dissolution. The CO2 that is in the airspace of the drop checker will readily diffuse into the drop checker solution, changing the colour of the BTB indicator.

A guide to making your own DIY CO2 drop checker written by me (shameless plug here!) has been copied below for your reference.

After some reading on various forums, and since I started DIY CO2 in my 2.5 g nano, I decided to build a DIY CO2 drop checker on the whim (hey, it's reading week, I get a break from university midterms, I deserve to spend some time with my aquariums! )

Anyways, here's the equipment you will need, or rather, the stuff that I had lying around my house that I used:

1 Glass container with screw on lid
1 Silicon glue applicator/similar type glue applicator
1 Rubber O ring that is about the same size as the screw on lid
Power drill with appropriate drill bits
1 Suction cup
1 Zip tie

Pictures!

Glass container with lid


Glue applicator with the tip cut off so it will fit into the glass container


O Ring

As mentioned, you'll have to cut the plastic applicator so that it fits within your container first. Next, you'll want to drill a hole in the cap.


Finally, you can put the O-ring onto the applicator, put the applicator in, and screw on the lid.

Next, I needed some way to mount the whole thing in my nano, so I used a spare suction cup and a plastic zip tie.


You'll notice the zip tie just goes through the suction cup (i.e. I just put a hole through the nipple of the suction cup).

After the mechanical work was done, I had to start the chemistry part (I love chemistry!)

Items you'll need to make a 4 dkH reference solution for the drop checker:

1 Graduated Cylinder
1 Scale that can measure to at least 0.1 gram accuracy
1 Box of Baking Soda
1 Bottle of Distilled water

Pictures!

Scale that I bought off a site, it was $11 (free shipping)


Baking soda (sodium bicarbonate), you can pick this up at your grocery store.


Distilled water, again, grocery store.

First, since a 4 dkH reference solution is needed, I made the necessary calculations and prepared a 40 dkH solution before diluting it 10 fold to 4 dkH.

To make a 40 dkH solution, you need 1.2 grams of baking soda per 1 L of water. I made up a 2 L batch, so I needed 2.4 grams (the bigger the batch, the more accurate your final solution will become).

Then, taking 50 mL of the 40 dkH solution (measured with a graduated cylinder), I poured it into a bottle and filled the last 450 mL with distilled water (giving me a 1:10 dilution = 4 dkH solution).

After you make your 4 dkH solution, measure out 5 mL, and using a pH test kit (i.e. I used the API pH test kit, any test kit that uses bromothymol blue will be fine for this purpose), put in at least double the recommended number of drops (i.e. API recommends 6, I put in 8-9 drops). This makes the resulting solution darker, and easier to read.


Here's the liquid inside the drop checker.


Everything put together, just awaiting me to strap the drop checker to the suction cup.


The whole contraption has been placed into my nano, around 4:48 pm. At the time of writing this up (5:35 pm) the top portion of the liquid is already starting to turn green. 


6:28 pm now, it's definitely green


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## Shattered

That's a great article and well written. 

The only suggestion I would have would be some links to common planted tank "issues" such as algea.


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## blossom112

I think this should be a sticky ..............


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## blossom112

> 5) Inline CO2 reactor: Most arguably the best method of CO2 dissolution, the inline CO2 reactor is inline with a (canister) filter output. Using this method, the CO2 is very effectively dissolved.


could you plese explain this to me ..
a picture ?
I have a powerhead attached to my pressureized Co2 , but if this other method is better I would like to learn and do that !
thanks


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## ameekplec.

In an inline CO2 reactor, you basically inject CO2 into an enclosed space (typically a canister or tube) where there is a lot of turbulent flow (ie through bioballs) and the increased contact time usually results in 100% dissolution of the co2 into the water, and makes for a very efficient use of your CO2.

Something like this:









So the water from your canister filter enters through the bottom. It has to go through the bioballs and so has really turbulent flow, and spends longer in the chamber as a result. The CO2 is injected into the canister from the smaller barb on the left on top of the canister, where it travels down a tube to the bottom of the reactor and bubbles up to the top. Except that all the water in there, the turbulence and pressure, and it generally dissolves 100% into the water, and then leaves the reactor out the top, then is delivered into your tank. The small valve to the right on top is to purge gas when you're setting it up.


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## Darkblade48

blossom112 said:


> could you plese explain this to me ..
> a picture ?
> I have a powerhead attached to my pressureized Co2 , but if this other method is better I would like to learn and do that !
> thanks


I think ameekplec did a great job of explaining the inline CO2 reactor. Do note, however, that this method will likely only work with pressurized CO2 (I have a feeling that DIY CO2 will be unable to generate the pressure required to actually "push" the CO2. I have trouble getting my DIY CO2 to work with a glass/ceramic disc diffuser...)

Edit: Noticed that the DIY CO2 drop checker post had some bad picture links, so updated those.


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## blossom112

Thanks U 2 .. I shall check out your update for sure !
and thanks for the heads up on the inline reactor !!!
With any luck I shall have one up and running saturday!!!!
Now to get the zebras in their own tank !!!
For the SWEET plants I am picking up tomorrow!!!!
and dumping off the ones I have  .
I am very excited thanks to your readings I have been pondering all month !
To make my own plant scape with harder to keep plants and maybe even rare plants ....
Thanks!!!


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## blossom112

A Q for you anthony ....
If I get the inline .... would you recommend I also get 
pinpoint pH controller it is costly but I can do it .

Is it really worth the extra cash ? and why or why not .
I dont want to waste cash if there is no need .
But I am looking at higher quality plants once I clear out what I have.
what do you think !


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## Darkblade48

blossom112 said:


> A Q for you anthony ....
> If I get the inline .... would you recommend I also get
> pinpoint pH controller it is costly but I can do it .


I assume you are using pressurized CO2? If you already have a solenoid, you could "upgrade" with a pH controller. Essentially, by connecting the CO2, solenoid and pH controller, the pH controller will detect the pH. If it goes up beyond a set number, it'll open up the CO2. When the pH drops below a certain number, then it'll shut off the CO2.

Is this necessary? Not really. Is it an expensive toy? Definitely. I don't have the cash to throw around on a pH meter, so I don't have one. You can grow plants just fine without a pH meter.

Edit: A pH monitor would eliminate the need for a drop checker. A drop checker allows us to check the CO2 level inside the tank at a glance, and will let you make adjustments to your CO2 output (manually) accordingly.


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## blossom112

Well then ......I think it may be worth the investment then !
If im getting the other might as well , I like things easy .
but I will still have to try and make my own 4dkh just to see the differance .
thanks


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## blossom112

everything will be hoocked up tomorrow!
and I got new plants ....
so now I have to move my other tank and swap out the zebras for the BNs and then start a new ....


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## Prodicus

One comment on this nicely written thread:

You mention the low-maintenance (low to moderate light) option on the 
first post, but the rest of your posts are mostly applicable to the *high-*
*tech or medium tech option*.

You won't get 30 ppm CO2 in a low-tech set-up, and you really don't need
to add supplements to a low tech set-up.

For a low-tech set-up, all you really need apart from your light is proper plant choice and lots of patience.


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## planter

This is a great article. Well done. 

Sticky worthy


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## ameekplec.

Seconded. This is a great go to thread for the weekly "I wants a planted tank" thread.


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## blossom112

blossom112 said:


> I think this should be a sticky ..............


BOTH HIS THREADS SHOULD BE STICKYS!


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## Calmer

I see this post is already a sticky in the Beginner's Circle section. A very good post as it is informational and explained very well. An excellent article, Darkblade48.


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## pat3612

Great article Thanks for posting this


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## Darkblade48

planter said:


> This is a great article. Well done.
> 
> Sticky worthy





ameekplec. said:


> Seconded. This is a great go to thread for the weekly "I wants a planted tank" thread.





blossom112 said:


> BOTH HIS THREADS SHOULD BE STICKYS!


Thanks to everyone that commented on my article, and thanks to the mod who stickied it. Blossom, I'm not sure which other thread you're referring to; I thought I only had one "decent" post 

It's good to see that some people are digging up posts from the dead.


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## pat3612

Darkblade48 said:


> Thanks to everyone that commented on my article, and thanks to the mod who stickied it. Blossom, I'm not sure which other thread you're referring to; I thought I only had one "decent" post
> 
> It's good to see that some people are digging up posts from the dead.


Oh I dont know I thought at least 3 or 4 out of 13 pages were pretty good


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## blossom112

I have a question about fert dousing... we can not do it together but can it be done in the same day ?
all 3 .. trace then few hours later KNo3 then a few hours after that KH2PO4 or can it still become a solid in just the few hours ?
thanks !


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## Darkblade48

I've never tried doing it on the same day; in all likelihood, since the fertilizers are being diluted into a larger volume of water, you could dose them a few hours apart (or say, one in the morning, and one in the evening when you get home). The most important thing is to keep the macros away from the micronutrients.

I mix up big batches of macronutrients (i.e. K2SO4, KNO3, KH2PO4) and then dose them one day, and then the micronutrients the following day.


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## blossom112

Well If I am to use each x3 a week Will be impossible .


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## Darkblade48

blossom112 said:


> Well If I am to use each x3 a week Will be impossible .


Simply add your macronutrients (KNO3, KH2PO4 and anything else you may want to add (i.e. K2SO4)) all on the same day, and alternate with solely micronutrients on the days you aren't adding macronutrients.


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## blossom112

tyvm...........


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## bluekrissyspikes

maladmin said:


> I have a 12G eclipse tank, it comes with a standard 15W T8 bulb. I currently have some Hygrophilia polysperma Rose Nervi which is not looking too good. Since upgrades to these lights look pretty difficult (and expensive) will upgrading the bulb to a flora-glo make any significant difference?


you should start your own thread.......and changing the bulb might help depending on the kind of light your bulb is giving off. personally i'd search out some day-glo bulbs for cheap at canadian tire or walmart(or wherever you shop that has that type of thing) what spectrum is your light?


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## Bayinaung

This is a great thread. Can we add some discussions on different kinds of substrate to use. Use of different types of gravel, different types of aquatic soil available locally or through internet purchase at reasonable prices, peat bricks, mineralized soil, using clay pellets/soils used in bonsai hobby, etc. I'm trying to figure out what combo is going to work best, and looking for ideas.


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## DaFishMan

Had to figure out my drop checker, found your article.
Thanks Anthony !

I had the 4dk fluid already, then mixed with equal part distilled water to make it 2dk so that it turns green at 15ppm Co2. Ph test at wallmart is $3. cheaper than BA. It recommends 3 drops, I did 5 to make it darker like you said. Worked perfect  The only hard part is the 1-2 hr wait to see if your fluid turns green ! 

Cheers


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## Darkblade48

DaFishMan said:


> Had to figure out my drop checker, found your article.
> Thanks Anthony !
> 
> I had the 4dk fluid already, then mixed with equal part distilled water to make it 2dk so that it turns green at 15ppm Co2. Ph test at wallmart is $3. cheaper than BA. It recommends 3 drops, I did 5 to make it darker like you said. Worked perfect  The only hard part is the 1-2 hr wait to see if your fluid turns green !
> 
> Cheers


Glad it worked out for you


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## river-7

*Planted Tanks???*

Hi: I am new and i even killed a cactus years ago; Well i have started 2-planted 5-5gal; tanks with plants tall ones and small ones,but different tanks ie; 1-tank for tall and looks like fast growing plants and another tank for smaller plants and looks like slow growing plants. Have small flourescent lighting on both tanks, flourite substrate and filter. Now Question;; Do i need a heater for plants to flourish, feeding plants API root tabs, no fish in.and i declore; the water first. The smaller plants don't look too good but taller ones look great. So i am thinking that i need a heater for smaller ones as they were in a heated tank with fish and i was told to remove and plant without the pots in flourite substrate and no heat, and remove them from the pot holders. They were in heated tank-they looked great. Please help as i don't want to lose these ones as my pea puffers love to sleep on them.I am sorry i don't know none of the plant names-i see them i like them and buy them-and i can't understand any of the plants abbrevations.and i give them light at least 10-hours a day. Doe's the tank water have to be cycled as i was told no. So i added water and let it sit for 2-3-days before putting plants in declored water. Please, please help a newbie out here that even killed a cactus.river-7


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## Darkblade48

river-7 said:


> Now Question;; Do i need a heater for plants to flourish, feeding plants API root tabs, no fish in.and i declore; the water first.


Normally, you will not need a heater, but it depends on how warm you keep your house. I used to live in an apartment and would turn off the heating at night to save energy, so in the winter, a heater was required.

Depending on your lighting (you never mentioned how much fluorescent lighting you have), you may or may not need the root tabs (and liquid fertilization). CO2 may be required at higher light levels as well.



river-7 said:


> i was told to remove and plant without the pots in flourite substrate and no heat, and remove them from the pot holders. They were in heated tank-they looked great.


Removing them from their pot holders is good. Did you remove the rock wool (the cotton like material) around their roots before planting them?



river-7 said:


> I am sorry i don't know none of the plant names-i see them i like them and buy them-and i can't understand any of the plants abbrevations.


A few good pictures can help people help you identify your plants. Alternatively, you can go online and look up the pictures yourself.



river-7 said:


> and i give them light at least 10-hours a day.


The amount of lighting is more important than the length of lighting. Having an insufficient amount of lighting on for a long time will not mean plants will flourish.



river-7 said:


> Doe's the tank water have to be cycled as i was told no. So i added water and let it sit for 2-3-days before putting plants in declored water. Please, please help a newbie out here that even killed a cactus.river-7


Planting in a non-cycled aquarium is fine. Just do not add any livestock.

Finally, you may want to organize your thoughts into ideas so that it may help people read posts and follow your train of thoughts


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