# drilling a established tank -



## tom g (Jul 8, 2009)

tank is a 46 bowfront 

anyone out here ever drill a established tank that's running, plan is to empty tank to the half level or less and drill tank for a overflow ...
1.0 in and 3/4 holes 
have watched vids on tanks being drilled but all have been empty and on there side ..
I will most likely make a template and clamp to area , to prevent bit from walking .will have rubermaid tub under tank so I can pour water while drilling or use a small power head to feed water to drill ..
anybody do this or have experience in this .
cheers and thanks 
tom


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## joel.c (Sep 11, 2012)

* becomes terrified, closes thread, runs away.


Good luck on this, seems like you will need to have some master/pro level people to do this. My biggest fear is seeing the drill fall into the tank and having an electrical event.

Please be careful,
Joel


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## fesso clown (Nov 15, 2011)

I don't know man... I wouldn't risk it. You could empty everything into a rubbermaid or something, the potential for disaster is pretty big. You will at least need a plan if it goes south for your livestock...


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## altcharacter (Jan 10, 2011)

Sounds like you need beer for this


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## tom g (Jul 8, 2009)

*beer*

no beer until job done and sump set up and no leaks in office tank ,lol
don't think wifes boss would be happy ,lol


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## Midland (Jan 26, 2015)

I would also be worried about the grit from when the drill bit goes through to the inside of the tank leaking glass sediment into the tank water. Be sure to have some way of catching both the circle of glass from falling through and all water with glass sediment that goes through to the inside of the tank.


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## tom g (Jul 8, 2009)

*drilling substance*

will have tape on side havnt figured out which way will ddrill from inside tank or from back , glass is made out of fine sand ....


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## cica (Feb 10, 2013)

John at nafb drilled my frag tank (empty) standing, not turned to the side. From outside. So the drill was in horisontal position. He filled up the drill with ice from the frosen food freeser, did not use water, about half way through he filled it again with ice. But I guess he drilled a couple of tanks before, this was not the first one for him.
Just a tought, if you could fix (clamp) a pice of glass to the inside of the tank glass, then nothing would fall in the tank. But I am not an expert in drilling glass so don't listen to me


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## tom g (Jul 8, 2009)

*idea*

Hey joe... thank u.... that is what i was looking for...info and
experiences..the ice idea is brilliant 
thanks again
tom


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## MPreston (Nov 11, 2013)

tagging along.
I have a feeling I will have to reference this post in the near future.


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## y4zhuang (Oct 2, 2013)

i'm no scientist... I would assume the weight from the water pushing outwards against the glass does not make your life easier. I would already feel woozy drilling a tank. i don't need any added pressure


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## tom g (Jul 8, 2009)

*drilling pressure*

how would pressure affect drilling the glass ,,,glass is glass is it not ...
the tank will be drained to the half way mark ....or what ever I feel is sufficient


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## wtac (Mar 17, 2006)

Any bowing will add to the changes of a crack to spider out. Use a level across the pane to make sure that there is no bowing.

Ice in the bit is a neat idea but I prefer to have water running along the contact area for cooling and flushing of removed material. Also depends on the "aggressiveness" of the bit. Some use a finer diamond grit than others.

I put a few layers of duct tape on the exit side. Clean and the surface for good adhesion. I find it helps let me know when I'm near the end an minimizes chipping at the "knock-out" as you can hear the difference when you've cut through on a side and you can back out a bit to straighten out the bit to cut out evenly. When I get to this point sometimes a clamp a piece of wood if I really want a clean knock out. Grind the edges smooth.

On the cut side, same clean and dry area and I use either duct or the red house wrap tape to make a channel for water to go into a bucket. I put another bucket on a ladder filled with water and use airline tubing where the siphoned water will drain onto the cutting area or use a pressurized hand pump plant sprayer if there is a second set of hands around.

Start the drill fast enough that it doesn't "walk". Come at the surface ~10-15* to start a cut channel and as you feel that the initial cut is deep enough to slowly bring the bit parallel to the glass pane. Practice on a scrap piece of glass to get a feel for starting the hole.

HTH/JME


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## teemee (Aug 29, 2009)

Kevin drilled one of mine for me while it was wet. I had to empty to below where the bulkheads would go. It's a risk, it can always crack... Just make sure you know what you're doing...


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## tom g (Jul 8, 2009)

*drilling*

thanks Wilson I appreiciate it just wish u were the one drilling the tank ...
im willing to try and the goal will be to go slow and steady what do u think about making a template out of wood so the drill bit does not walk or do u prefer the method of tilting and gradually going to 90 degrees 
thanks again

teemee yes kevin is the man hes just so damn busy lol


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## y4zhuang (Oct 2, 2013)

Exactly. Imagine standing on a panel of glass. It would only take a small impact for the glass to give. Exactly here. If you're stressing the glass... Adding weight to it will reduce the threshold.


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## wtac (Mar 17, 2006)

Use a template and put a piece of wood on the cut out side and clamp into place. On the cut side, chamfer the edge and gouge a channel on the side against the glass to allow for water flow, material ejection and drainage. 

Sounds like alot of work do drill a bloody hole but lets make "popping the proverbial cherry" of drilling a vertical pane of glass a successful one 

Make a channel w/tape around the template to divert the water into a bucket below. Call me if you need more help.


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## cica (Feb 10, 2013)

Tom, if I were you, I would totaly follow wtac's instruction. Much better then using the ice. The ice worked for John, but hey, he biult the tank and it was empty. If it cracked, he would rebuilt it. Plus he has lots of drilling experiences.
The constant water flow cools much better, that's what you need. The more you empty the tank, the safer you are (less pressure on the glass).


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## tom g (Jul 8, 2009)

*info*

++++1 on wilsons info ... i do like yours as well


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## silent1mezzo (Jun 24, 2014)

I'd love to see the results!


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## MPreston (Nov 11, 2013)

Me too- if it works for you; I'll buy the beer, come to my place to help with mine.


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## altcharacter (Jan 10, 2011)

I just bought some beer Tom. Lets do this!!


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## tom g (Jul 8, 2009)

*lmao*

U my friend scare me.... keep that 65 on hand in the next few weeks lol
Im comf doing this just waiting for a few more pvc fittings and stuff like 
that....
skimmer got it....
return pump got it.....
overflow got it.....


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