# Large Purchase, need advice?



## [KRAFTIG] (Apr 19, 2017)

In the process of moving from freshwater to saltwater. Leaning everyday, just wanted to pass some the equipment decisions I've made. The tank and stand are being built by Miracles Aquariums. Size 36x24x24 - Basically 90 gallons with centre mounted overflow, holes on the bottom - two exits t sump and 1 return. This will be a *FISH ONLY* tank for now.

So my questions to you all, do you like what's on my list? What could I improve on and why? What is missing that I should consider? Lastly who is a great source for plumbing supplies? TIA!

*Equipment for consideration:*

Salifert Nitrate (NO3) Test kit
Salifert Nitrite (NO2) Test kit
Salifert PH Test Kit
Salifert Ammonia (NH4) Test kit
CaribSea Seafloor Special Grade Reef Sand Dry Aragonite 40lb
CaribSea South Seas Base Rock 40lb
Eheim Jager TruTemp Submersible Heater - 250 W
Eshopps AZU-100 - Deluxe Series
Eshopps Pacific L Resevior Tank
Instant Ocean Sea Salt 200 Gallons
Reef Octopus Classic 150SS Space Saver Skimmer
Sicce Syncra 4.0 Pump - 951 GPH or Sicce Syncra 5.0 Pump - 1321 GPH
Vertex ATC Refractometer
ATO - Still undecided
UV Sterilizer - Still undecided


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## nc208082 (Jun 27, 2013)

I think you could go with a much smaller return pump. Your sump is only 17 gallons so those two would blast water through your sump, you could get by with a sicce 2.0 or 3.0 or look at tunze which is what i use, it is almost identical to sicce but cheaper.

Your also going to need more rock. 40 lbs in a 90 will not cut it unless you have a bunch of extra bio filtration such as Siporax, Marinepure, seachem matrix, etc.

what are you going to do for flow? what power heads will you be using and what lighting are you going to use?


Your off to a great start so far, do you have any questions?


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## [KRAFTIG] (Apr 19, 2017)

nc208082 said:


> I think you could go with a much smaller return pump. Your sump is only 17 gallons so those two would blast water through your sump, you could get by with a sicce 2.0 or 3.0 or look at tunze which is what i use, it is almost identical to sicce but cheaper.
> 
> Your also going to need more rock. 40 lbs in a 90 will not cut it unless you have a bunch of extra bio filtration such as Siporax, Marinepure, seachem matrix, etc.
> 
> ...


Hi, thank for your response.

As for the pump, I want to run a manifold of sorts for future equipment. I.E. run the UV sterilizer etc. from the same pump. I need to keep the heat down.

As for rock it should read 40lbs x 2, I left the quantities out by mistake. Also thinking about adding a couple of the following MarinePure Bio Filter Media. Good idea?










For flow I want to add the Ecotech Votech MP40. Why so expensive? I love their design, motor on the outside. The plan is to setup the tank and let nature do its course for 2-3 months before I add any fish.

Once I get the tanked filled and circulating what do I need to do? What can I do to enhance the bio growth? Also where does one buy their plumbing supplies? BRS is great, but in the US.

ATO - I like the Hydor and AutoAqua Smart. Which one?

UV Sterilizer, what is a cost effective brand that won't break the bank?


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## TBemba (Jan 11, 2010)

ecotech are the top of the line controllable, wireless different setting. I would only get them if your really serious about going for more than fish only. Jebao Is a more cost effective brand and I have both for powerheads and return pump.

As for the ATO I just picked up a AutoAqua and they are nice had a tunze nano and they're flawed, pumps fail often. My original one failed right out of the box and the second one less than a year later hence the autoaqua.

The ATO container is extremely $$ unless you have the $$ or want something pretty. You can use anything for the top of water even a empty salt bucket if it's hidden

Uv Sterilizer, I'm unsure why you would need one.

I've both marinepure and siporax both work.

Test kits are good choice 

Lights can be anything if you don't intend to have corals

Refractometer I have a Redsea but I'm sure the vertex is okay


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## jixer750 (Nov 23, 2014)

The Jebaeo return pumps work well I am using a 1200 as a return pump & a 3000 to run my carbon reactor & biopellet reactor plus they are DC which are much cheaper to run & quieter. They have adjustable flow rate which is also a nice feature. If you choose to go with Jebaeo power heads stay away from the RW 15 model they have issue & only last a year before they die I have experienced this issue thanks to Pets and Ponds they replaced them with RW 8 model for free. Lighting I am using 4 AI Prime HD they work excellent.


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## [KRAFTIG] (Apr 19, 2017)

TBemba said:


> ecotech are the top of the line controllable, wireless different setting. I would only get them if your really serious about going for more than fish only. Jebao Is a more cost effective brand and I have both for powerheads and return pump.
> 
> As for the ATO I just picked up a AutoAqua and they are nice had a tunze nano and they're flawed, pumps fail often. My original one failed right out of the box and the second one less than a year later hence the autoaqua.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the info on the Jebao brand, I'll keep them in mind.

AutoAqua and Hydor are at the top of the list at the moment for ATO's

The UV Sterilizer would be proactive is preventing fish disease, no? I was told by a few sources to add one.


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## [KRAFTIG] (Apr 19, 2017)

jixer750 said:


> The Jebaeo return pumps work well I am using a 1200 as a return pump & a 3000 to run my carbon reactor & biopellet reactor plus they are DC which are much cheaper to run & quieter. They have adjustable flow rate which is also a nice feature. If you choose to go with Jebaeo power heads stay away from the RW 15 model they have issue & only last a year before they die I have experienced this issue thanks to Pets and Ponds they replaced them with RW 8 model for free. Lighting I am using 4 AI Prime HD they work excellent.


DC pumps seem to be very affordable, I like the less heat and saving power wise. What size is your tank for 12000? Like I mentioned earlier I'd like to create a manifold to connection future equipment. Would the 12000 suffice?


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## twobytwo (Oct 25, 2014)

All good equipment choices and recommendations.

Salifert makes good tests, but if you want a single kit for the same things and that will also come with Alkalinity - Consider the Red Sea Marine Care kit.

I have a waveline DC4000 return pump, I believe its similar to the Jebao's. I'm happy with it, hasn't really failed in the 2+ years Ive been running it.

I have the Hydor Smart Level ATO. Overall been happy with it. I did have a problem with it constantly beeping after 1.5 years and they replaced it for free. My Toms aqualifter was fine before i moved, but I changed some things in the sump and the Aqualifter wasn't refilling enough. I use a MaxiJet 400 now and its perfect.

I agree with TBemba, anything can really be an ATO container. I've used Sterelite containers from Canadian Tire but right now I'm using a spare 10g aquarium lolz.

Eheim is a good heater, I have one in my Clownfish tank. You may also want to consider a titanium heater with an external controller. I use 2 glass heaters on a controller, in case one fails.

I use my UV for algae control. Disease control should be done through QTing all your fish before they go in your display tank. Although, if it's a fish only without inverts and corals, its not as critical as you'd be able to treat meds directly into the tank. anyway, I have a Coralife TurboTwist 6x.

I Have a Maxspect Gyre for flow - they recently licensed the design and you can find cheaper versions of it.


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## Crayon (Apr 13, 2014)

Plumbing parts, Lowes for white pipe and fittings, Big Show carries the red pipe.
There is a sticky with good plumbing suppliers on the equipment section.

A UV will not prevent disease. It will help to control free swimming parasites, but not all diseases will be impacted by a UV. Having said that, I absolutely use a UV for all my tanks. Find one that has good water contact, like the turbo twist, and make sure the water goes through the UV slowly.

Nothing replaces a quarantine.
You will still have to deal with internal parasites, worms, flukes, all other sorts of yuck.

Look at the gyres as well for water movement. The MP series is very good, I just don't like the big warts on the outside of the tank. Personal preference.


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## nicky (Feb 28, 2012)

Like nc208082 said, you could go with a smaller pump. I use the Sicce 4.0 for my 75g display and 38g sump system, I have to dial it down to almost half the flowrate. 

Don't forget you have to monitor phosphate too and to test that do not use Salifert. I would recommend Hanna. If you think you might be adding corals in the future I would suggest Hanna Phosphorous checker because it gives an even more accurate reading. 

I have one Marinepure 8"x4" block too, can't tell if it works but I do have very little nitrate and phosphate with only around 40lbs of live rocks.

imo if you are keeping fish only, any powerhead with decent amount of constant flow like a Hydor Koralia would suffice.


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## [KRAFTIG] (Apr 19, 2017)

Guys thank you so much for all this great info.

Can someone explain the differences on the model numbers from the Jebao brand? DCS DCT, etc. TIA


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## nicky (Feb 28, 2012)

[KRAFTIG] said:


> Guys thank you so much for all this great info.
> 
> Can someone explain the differences on the model numbers from the Jebao brand? DCS DCT, etc. TIA


IIRC the order from oldest to newest is DCT, DCS, DCP. DCS has a newer swirl impeller, DCP uses sine wave technology for a more silent performance


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## [KRAFTIG] (Apr 19, 2017)

Thank you!


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## jixer750 (Nov 23, 2014)

My DC 1200 is running my 150 gallon display tank & also a 75 gallon stock tank & I can not run it at full power it moves a ton of water.


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## TBemba (Jan 11, 2010)

jixer750 said:


> My DC 1200 is running my 150 gallon display tank & also a 75 gallon stock tank & I can not run it at full power it moves a ton of water.


I have the same on my 60 cube  A little over half power and I have plenty of flow. but have power heads as well because you can almost never have too much flow.


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## [KRAFTIG] (Apr 19, 2017)

TBemba said:


> I have the same on my 60 cube  A little over half power and I have plenty of flow. but have power heads as well because you can almost never have too much flow.


LOL on a 60!


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## co1inder (Mar 17, 2015)

With respect to Flow:

Gyres - the flow is awesome, but they've been a big headache for me. I purchased two 130's shortly after they were released. They kept breaking and were extremely finicky. I understand they improved them, but have no experience with the improved models. I purchased two 150's and I've had the same experience. One needed a replacement motor at one point, and both are out of service at the moment. They're both less than a year old. Perhaps I've just been unlucky.

MP40's - they rock. I believe mine were 10 yrs old when I gave them to my dad. I purchased a pair of the new QD models and couldn't be happier.


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## Rookie2013 (Jan 17, 2013)

Agreed with the above post MP40's rock...


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## sohal tang (Oct 26, 2011)

*Ato*

For ATO I would go with what I use which is Spectrapure's ATO - very similar to the litremeter.

Awesome and accurate!

Tim


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## [KRAFTIG] (Apr 19, 2017)

Thanks for the suggestion, though I recently purchased the TOL system from Tunze


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