# HELP: Enheim 2217 Filter: Cant restart!!!



## Asterix (Feb 5, 2011)

Hi,

I needed to get rid of the carbon pad in my filter this morning. I took the intake tube out of the aquarium and opened the cannister. There was a big flood of water as the tube accidentaly feel back in without I seeing it.

I'm also worried that the top of the filter might of fell slightly in water (in a bucket wit hsome water). I hope that the electronics were not damaged.

My problem:*I cant start it again. I placed the tubes back in and started the machine again. It just does a noise for a long time and nothing happens. I did not run it too long as I am scared to burn the engine.

*I do not have the double tap connector valves on this unit. This might be my problem!!!!

The instruction manual is horrible and not useful. What should I do? Fill the cannister with water or without. I tried both ways and nothing happened.

Should I instead fill it up with water and start sucking on the outake tube to get it going?

This sucks, I'm at work now and my fishes have no filter (it's a 79 Gallons)

Thanks for any tips....


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## garryism (Nov 2, 2010)

i have the exact same canister, but sadly i couldn't tell you what to do since it's been sitting there gathering dust for the last 6 months. 

but, the person who gave it to me told me to do the following:

1 - fill the canister with water to the top - cover it (watch for the water that overflows)

2 - turn on the canister

3 - put the intake into the tank

4 - suck the outtake until water comes out and put into tank
*rather than sucking, i would rather buy a siphon starter and pump it

hope this helps!


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## chriscro (Dec 3, 2010)

in my experience, i would suggest: 
1. filling the canister right to the top secureing the lid
2. hook up the outtake tube
3. turn on filter
4. suck on the intake tube and allow it to run into a bucket for a few seconds then hook it up to the filter

this should help the filter plenty. within two or three attempts your filter should start.

this has worked for me 100 times.

check your impeller though firstly and make sure it is turning and is not clogged or damaged.


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## garryism (Nov 2, 2010)

i would go with chriscro's advice. his sounds better. 

as i mentioned, i haven't even turned mine on... and i'm just going with what was explained to me while the person was giving me the canister. maybe i heard wrong... we were at a party. 



chriscro said:


> in my experience, i would suggest:
> 1. filling the canister right to the top secureing the lid
> 2. hook up the outtake tube
> 3. turn on filter
> ...


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## Asterix (Feb 5, 2011)

Hi,

Thanks for the tips. Will try after work.

Questions:

1. Im not sure if I damaged those clips that secure the filter head to the canister. If think there are 6 of them. Some of them clip tightly and others are loose and fall back down. Is this a problem or will the pressure keep it all tight?

2. How long can I go without a filter on a 80 gallon tank. Around 45 fishes (mostly small). I will do a water change tonight and siphone the bottom.


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## aeri (Sep 9, 2007)

- separate the intake tube from the filter.
- fill it up with water and make sure there are little to no bubbles inside.
- hold your thumbs over both sides to make sure no water comes out.
- put one side into the water and release your thumb, and the other side quickly attach to the filter after releasing your thumb. (it's much easier with double tap)

the water will follow the tube through gravity as the canister is below the tank. you'll see the canister being filled up with water. once it's full, turn the filter on. you want to minimize the amount of time that your impeller runs dry/with bubbles. i read that an impeller running dry for more than 30 seconds will damage it.


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## Asterix (Feb 5, 2011)

Hi,

Thanks for the tips. Will try after work.

Questions:

1. Im not sure if I damaged those clips that secure the filter head to the canister. If think there are 6 of them. Some of them clip tightly and others are loose and fall back down. Is this a problem or will the pressure keep it all tight?

2. How long can I go without a filter on a 80 gallon tank. Around 45 fishes (mostly small). I will do a water change tonight and siphone the bottom.


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## Asterix (Feb 5, 2011)

I found this review on the internet.......

See text in Bold, pretty scary. I'm also worried about this and I'm actually thingking of getting rid of my filter now. I cant take the chance of loosing 80 gallon sof water in my condo.

This sucks!!! Would anyone know of a filter that has a 100% secure, tight, foolproof machanism?

_I have used the Eheim 2215 for years, and I would not use this design again. The canister head is connected with metal clips held in place with pins. *The pins fall out, and the clips bend out of shape, resulting in the canister head popping open, draining the tank. This happened when I was away, and returned to find 200 litres of water spilling out of the lid onto the carpet! Priming is major pain.* You have to make sure that there is no air in the canister (almost impossible), and in the process to get a tight seal the clips bend out of shape risking the "leaking tank at any moment" scenario. _


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## Asterix (Feb 5, 2011)

*I wish I would of bought the Fluval 405. Seems more secure (heavy clamps). *

Might look for one today. Wasting money, I know!!! But I need to be 100% that I have no leaks. I dont trust my Enheim anymore. The metal clips do not secure anymore.

A-216 Fluval 405 External Filter - 110 V

The Fluval 405 External Canister Filter provides complete, multi-stage filtration for aquariums up to 400 Liters (100 U.S. gallons). The modular design allows for quick and easy maintenance while flexible filter media chambers permit maximum versatility for basic to custom filter media configurations. Fluval 05 external canister filters offer quick, trouble-free maintenance features. *These include instant priming, lift-lock clamps that securely lock the cover in place and an Aqua-Stop feature that stops the water flow without the need to disconnect hoses*. Backed by a 3-year guarantee.


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## aeri (Sep 9, 2007)

I've had a number of eheims and have never had any issues. Maybe this person broke the clips or there was a crack in the canister. Eheims for canister filters I'd have to say are the most reliable.

I had a fluval 304 and a 404 and they constantly leak. The o-rings don't work too well, and the hoses pop off way too easily. Priming it is a pain and the plastic lock is so flimsy it could break from trying to lock it. One of the most frustrating filters I've ever had. Not sure how the FX5 or the new G series filters are, as fluval is redesigning their entire line.

The only 100% secure filter would be an internal filter probably.


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## Asterix (Feb 5, 2011)

So the Fluval 405 is a no-no from what you are saying.

I liked the heavy secure bars to close it tight.

The clips on my Enheim do not close properly (at least 3 of them). What to do?

Any recommandations for an internal filter?


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## garryism (Nov 2, 2010)

I suggest you take the time to do the necessary research to ensure that you find something that makes you feel comfortable.

In the interim, maybe you could go out and buy a temporary HOB that will satisfy the needs of your tank size.

As for an internal, I believe you'll be investing more in an internal versus getting a temporary HOB.

Good luck!



Asterix said:


> So the Fluval 405 is a no-no from what you are saying.
> 
> I liked the heavy secure bars to close it tight.
> 
> ...


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## aeri (Sep 9, 2007)

Yes.

The heavy secure bars are easy to close, but it still leaked for me at about 2 drips per second.

Pick these up: http://www.bigalsonline.com/Fish_Pl...Parts_Lid-Spring-Clip_9868801_82.html?tc=fish

No experience with an internal filter other than a sponge filter. Sponge filters work wonders. Internal filters I heard weren't too great in terms of efficiency.

HOBs are a good option with AC500/110 and Emperor 400 rated as the best. This might be better as you dont have to worry about suctions or clamps. But if there's a crack in the case it'll obviously leak as well.


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## Asterix (Feb 5, 2011)

Thanks for the link. This is probably exactly what I needed. 3 of the 6 clamps were damaged on my 2217 filter, did not close. This will give me the chance to replace them.

Might be the best option.......I do have a 80 gallon kit, other filters might not work well.

I wil call Big Al's in Scarbrough and Mississauga to see if they have them.


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## qwerty (Dec 15, 2009)

I used a 2213 that was missing a clip and another clip didn't really close too securely. I never had a problem.

I'm skeptical of how much those clips actually do. I think most of the seal is created by suction/pressure. It seems unlikely to me that one of the biggest brands of cannister filters would rest the entire integrity of their product/company on a few flimsy replaceable metal clips. They've been around for awhile, and they have a very good reputation. If there was a problem with the clips, they would have redesigned them by now.

What I have seen happen though, is is the output starts to siphon into the cannister, and the intake siphons into the cannister, the pressure can cause the lid to pop off. This MIGHT happen from a power outage, which might explain the person you quoted.

If you're worried about it I'm sure you could find a check valve to fit on your output, and I've been considering the idea of drilling a hole in the intake tube near the top of the water line, so if the canister does start to leak, the water line will only drop to where that hole is before the siphon breaks and stops pulling water.

If you open up the pump head casing you'll see that the electrical components are actually quite well encased and protected from water. The only problem I've ever had from dry-running an eheim was a broken impellor shaft, which you will hear rattling around when you run the filter. though it will still move water just fine.


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