# Sump or Canister ???



## Marowana (Jul 28, 2009)

hi, I got myself a bigger tank a non-drilled, 220gal with tempered glass bottom. i'm keeping freshwater fish and do not plan on keep any saltwater fish in this tank in the future. I also have 2 ehehim 2217 filters that is in my current tank which i can transfer over if needed.

what setup do you like better? a sump or add another canister?



does drilling weaken the tank? drilled tank increase the chance of leaking?


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## Marowana (Jul 28, 2009)

thanks for the info.
i was wrong on the tempered glass bottom. i think its just regular glass. but i'll call Miracles tomorrow to make sure.


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## Tearran (Oct 4, 2009)

My question is, why not use both? I have heard of lots of people setting up there sump to include Canisters!


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## aeri (Sep 9, 2007)

drilling will not weaken. the only chances of leaking might be if the bulkhead is not secured properly.

i'd definitely go for WD or sump in addition with the canisters.


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## Chris S (Dec 19, 2007)

I'm a big fan of canister filters. However, if a sump is a viable option then it is more effective if setup properly.


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## Zebrapl3co (Mar 29, 2006)

For a tank of that size, a sump is the only way to go.

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## Marowana (Jul 28, 2009)

ive decided going to go with 75 gal sump. let me know if anyone sees one for sale or hook me up with a builder or even some good plans for diy pls.


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## Jonathan (Oct 16, 2009)

Use both. 

A sump allows you to get all the ugly equipment out of the tank- heaters for example. The biggest benefit to a sump in my opinion is the exposure of air to the media. 

This makes the amount of available oxygen to the beneficial bacteria a 1000 X greater, facilitating rapid nitrogenous waste breakdown. The problem is that the population of active bacteria in the sump media, particulary if it uses a trickle filter or baki shower type set up, may fluctuate between feedings, since they rapidly consume the available food and then begin to starve. This can create a lag time between when you feed and when the filter begins to remove the waste effectively. 

The solution is to use a cannister filter with tighter (polishing) media in parallel with your sump. Set up so that you feed the cannister from the return side of the sump and discharge into the top of the sump wet/dry or mechanical filtration section. Particulate that blows through the sump filter is picked up by the cannister and trapped in its media where it breaks down more slowly albeit at a steady rate. Bacteria released by the media in the cannister are flushed through the sump filter, continually supplying it with active bacteria that will go to work quickly after you feed your fish.

By using both filter types in this complimentary fashion you are able to take full advantage of the qualities that both filter types have, and end up with a more efficient system overall. This means healthier fish with higher stocking densities in your tanks is possible

It works very well for me...


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## Marowana (Jul 28, 2009)

thanks, johnathan i had suggetions to run both. they didnt explain why or how. after reading ur thread i think im going to follow ur advice. i was going to run my 2 canister only at the begining to help cycle the tank, but now i think going to keep at least 1 on it the whole time.


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## oshiet (Oct 23, 2009)

Hands down to a sump for an aquarium that size.

From my personal experience with raising aros and other large predatory fish. Got really tired of repositioning heaters, returns, spraybars, etc... when using canisters. Even the mag clips didn't help! 

Like Jonathan said, it really cleans up the look of the tank and allows you to run much more equipment remotely.
I run a 4' UV plumbed underneith and even built in a low flow refugium with remote deep sandbed and plants, and algae turf scrubber into my sump, which should help lower nitrates and phosphates in my high bioload tank (feed lots of food). I only do a 20% waterchange weekly, and my nitrates read 10, phosphates read 5.


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