# My new 75g tank "SouthAmeriKazian II"



## DaFishMan (Dec 19, 2006)

SOUTHAMERIKAZIAN II

Ok a summary. SouthAmeriKazian (my 40g low profile breeder tank) was what I called my stage II tank. I lucked out and got a 75g tank and stand over a year ago, and have been piecing stuff together as I could afford it, to go a little higher tech and give the fish more room. Also wanted to incorporate a couple new tricks. I wanted to keep some main things similar to SA I, such as the layout but more territories, hidey holes and space, the 2 caves that the fish love, simple plant list mix of sa and a few asian, canister filter and more modern light, alot more driftwood, and to break away from flourite. (pressurized co2 still to come). Once I found the main piece of driftwood in the discus tank at menagerie (reserved for me until that tank was taken down 2 months later). The plan of what I wanted the tank to look like happened on it's own.

Step one was incorporating a small initial peat layer under the substrate, b) dryscaping the basic layout, c) using landscape divider to keep certain plants in their specific area. I've went with half moon type shapes for the most part, no straight lines, and the driftwood all tying together to look connected.

Thanks to JimmyJam for the substrate tip 'Nisso' which is an amazonia clone.










Step 2
With the fake cave in the left rear. The plan once the vals fill in, 
it will be pretty much hidden from view.










Step 3
This started this weekend, after getting plants from BillD, DarkBlade, and the last 2 pogestemon helferi from Menagerie. A few hours trimming roots and such, treating with potassium permanganate, and rinsing. Quite the chore ! I figured it's a necessary evil.

With the foreground plants in (from left to right: Pogestemon helferi (downoi), E latifolius, E augustifolius (quite resembles e tenellus), b japonica, c nevilli. Also added the mopani cave to the rear right. (planned to be an extension of the focal driftwood, while giving the fish hidey spots they were already familiar with.










Step 4
Now to fill in the left rear, behind the main driftwood, and right corner with the addition of approx 30 Vallisnera Spiralis from BillD. Most of them over 2 feet long !










Step 5
Where the main driftwood stump and mopani cave meet, needed something to tie it in. I had the E rubin from the 40g tank in mind already. I removed the bad leaves, trimmed the roots, and it was ready to go !










Step 6, the final shot (and sorry for the hob filter and heater from the 40g in front there ruining the look) I was able to move the fish over immediately with no stress.










Hope you like it. Most importantly, the fish absolutely love it. Mission accomplished 

To do: set up the eheim canister filter. remove the hob after a month. Finish getting the co2 components (tank, bubble counter, diffuser), hide the landscape divider with river rocks. I might get a koralia 2 powerheard for the right side as well.

It's so relaxing to watch and my fish are again where I can view them easily. I fell asleep watching them explore the tank last night.

Let me know what you think so far !


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## BillD (Jun 5, 2006)

Well done, looks good.Will look amazing when it fills in a touch more, which shouldn't take long with that light.


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## Ciddian (Mar 15, 2006)

Wonderful work!


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## vrb th hrb (Feb 20, 2010)

that tank looks great man, well done 

what are you stocking it with fish wise?


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## DaFishMan (Dec 19, 2006)

Thanks !

Lightly stocked atm, moved the few inhabitants from the 40g (going to be torn down)

4 Laetacara dorsigera (red-breast acara) very similar to L curviceps but purple in the coloration instead of blue.

1 beckford's pencilfish

2 albino bristlenose plecos

1 brown longfin bn

Definately adding more stock when I can find the right ones. Zebra otos, silver zebra angels with red eyes and bluish coloration on the fin. I'd go gaga for blue or red turq discus but then the maintenance level would go up a ton.


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## ameekplec. (May 1, 2008)

Looks like a great start!

Are you going to plant anything else big in there? IMO, the right 2/3rds of the tank looks very 'heavy' with the trunk and the E rubin on that side, and because of the solidness of the trunk, there's no transition so it looks off balance to me. Would it be possible to stick the sword back behind the root structure and have some medium height rosette plants where the sword is now?

Definitely excited to see this tank grown out in a few months time. I think a 75g is a great size for a planted tank


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## Fish_Man (Apr 9, 2010)

Awesome!


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## bigfishy (Jun 19, 2009)

looking good!


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## dl88dl (Mar 8, 2010)

Coming along nicely but IMO the filter and heater would look better at the back of the tank


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## DaFishMan (Dec 19, 2006)

Yup hate the hob and heater in the front but it's temporary until the eheim gets set up and some time to get populated with good bacteria. It's going on the back & not room there for that and the hob. 

No room to move the sword behind the stump Ameek. Think i'll leave it as is and visit possible changes in a couple months.

So my fishy friends knocked a few plants loose. (mostly the bn plecos going to war over algae wafers. Time to fix a couple things.


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## DaFishMan (Dec 19, 2006)

Had to replant some stuff that came loose, and the stressed sword revealed more weak leaves so it got a massive trim. The vals didn't like the excel either. Guess I have to be patient while things stabalize. I've now (under) dosed a bit of iron, blackwater extract, potassium, and pmdd.

The fish are really enjoying the tank and the bn's are going ballistic with all the driftwood lol.


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## Russgro (Apr 14, 2010)

Nice tank! I liked it better without the big amazon sword.


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## DaFishMan (Dec 19, 2006)

Glad you like. Yup that sword takes up alot of real estate ! I trimmed more of the leaves off (ones looking damaged or otherwise unhealthy), pretty much all the outside green leaves, it's alot smaller now lol.

I've been having uproot and melt problems with the vals and e latifolius & the downoi took a hit too. Now the bn's are hitting the weakened plants. I think I did too strong a pp dose. Not worried on the vals the roots are good they'll grow back. The e latifolius may be finito before weekout, hopefully I can make a return trip to BillD in a month or so to get more.

So did more trimming, replanting, removal of plant detritious, and trying to stay patient lol.

Tonight I'm picking up a young breeding pair of silver zebra veiltail angelfish.


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## igor.kanshyn (Jan 14, 2010)

Looks great!


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## camboy012406 (Jun 11, 2010)

i liked the driftwood


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## DaFishMan (Dec 19, 2006)

Thanks !

The fish love that driftwood too. I think I'd enjoy this tank even without the plants.... Well... almost lol.

The angelfish pickup went ok tonight so I have a yound pair of angelfish now sharing the space with some small sa cichlids (laetacara dorsigeras) and the bn plecos. I'm happy as shiznit to have angelfish again  

Also picked up some plastic mesh to make a protector for the downoi and e latifolius, hoping if I can keep the bn plecos from knocking them loose they'll have a change to establish. Making that wed night. hoping I'll have enough mesh left to toy with some moss.


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## PPulcher (Nov 17, 2006)

camboy012406 said:


> i liked the driftwood


Agreed, the driftwood is great!


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## DaFishMan (Dec 19, 2006)

How's it going Andrew ? We'll have to hang soon, it's been awhile !

I got an angelfish pair in last night too, silver zebra veiltail, almost like the ones I used to keep. So far all is well but still getting used to the tank and bright light.


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## Twiggles (Jun 6, 2010)

I gotta say of all the tanks I've seen so far on this forum, this is gotta be one of my favorites. I even want to swim around in there! lol


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## DaFishMan (Dec 19, 2006)

Thanks ALOT bro 

Hopefully I can keep it looking nice. A few members here helped with substrate and equip too, which helps encourage me. I still have work to do on it and it needs to fill in ! If the fish stay happy and the plants are healthy that's all I can ask. The trick now is to keep it that way and not slack off with the maintenance, which I'n known for when I hit the wall and burn out lol


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## camboy012406 (Jun 11, 2010)

where did you get that driftwood?your such a lucky guy who bought it.


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## DaFishMan (Dec 19, 2006)

Yup lots of compliments on the driftwood. 

The 2 mopani on the bottom left come from my stepdads 120g tank (RIP Dad)

The centrepiece stump was from Menagerie's discus tank, prior to the fishroom being emptied for the revamp. As soon as I saw it I drooled and Harold agreed to sell it to me once that tank was to be emptied. A month or so later, I was able to pick it up & for a great price since it was used. I didn't realize the caves and such in it until I washed and scrubbed it. Even better then I hoped for. Harold is the man. 

The mopani cave on the right I bought used off someone back in my pricenetwork days. Had it in my 40g since setup.


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## DaFishMan (Dec 19, 2006)

Got the eheim 2217 and inline heater going on saturday. Followed by 1/3 water change. I'm very pleased with the water movement  The hob also moved it too the back. It comes out in a month after the eheim is seeded. 

Tested a couple water params Sunday
Temp 78.5 F, Nitrates 17, Ph 7. Iron just over 0.
Dosed 7ml fourish iron. Considering adding potassium today.

The vals are weakened and damaged but sent some runners , downoi (almost gone) , e latifolius (down to 2, which took hold then sent a runner.

The 40g will now be plant growout tank. 

The 25g proves great for growing moss (and algae). Did a cleanup & a trim, cut the light period down to 4 hours. Down to 1 endler and goldspot bn. No plans to add fish to it atm.

Eheim still not leaking, day 3.


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## BillD (Jun 5, 2006)

If you need any more Vals or latifolius (has doubled in the main tank), let me know. Is the C. nevilli surviving?


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## DaFishMan (Dec 19, 2006)

Thanks Bill,

Your growth rate is fast !

I will most likely take you up on some e latifolius (down to 2 which survived and put out 2 runners). Not sure yet when can get back out your way, but a visit is in order  

Dosed a cap of flourish comprehensive, and 4 caps of excel. Underdosing the excel due to the vals. I stuck one in the 40g hoping it'll propagate and am pretty sure they will bounce back.

Edit: The c nevilli is doing great, had no melt !


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## tom g (Jul 8, 2009)

*tank*

wow very nice awsome driftwood very nice build , i am now craving a larger tank ..bad ehh i guess ill have to get rid of the 3 forty gal tanks to make room 
awsome job again 
tom


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## DaFishMan (Dec 19, 2006)

Thanks Tom glad you like it !

Still waiting for the plants to recover and fill in but enjoying it. Have a few ferts in to help & replaced the rosette tube in the light with a 6700k. The fish are healthy and the eheim & inline heater recently installed are working well. It's all I can ask for at this point. 

The 40g tank I couldn't tear it down so will be using that for plant growout and 'experiments' muhahahaaha.

I'd like to get a co2 tank soon, also once I pull the hob in a few weeks I may need a powerhead. I may leave the hob going until co2 is in if not just for water movement.


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## igor.kanshyn (Jan 14, 2010)

Any new pictures?


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## DaFishMan (Dec 19, 2006)

There were a few taken on the weekend but I didn't upload yet. I'll check them when I get home


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## jimmyjam (Nov 6, 2007)

*yo*

heydude. great looking tank.. I was thinking of doing a south american scape as soon as my clinic tank is all finished up. Or maybe sooner.. ummm . Hey did you end up adding some fert tabs.. I didnt see that reported. It might be wise for the bigger dudes like the swords. Most of your plants are root suckers, this way u can keep the water column dosing even lower.


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## DaFishMan (Dec 19, 2006)

Thanks JimmyJam, yup do the sa tank sooner lol

I've only went with the azoo slow release fert pellets so far, but I did organize my ferts and found some root tabs. I will see what I can get in there


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## acropora1981 (Aug 21, 2010)

You mentioned in your first post that you used potassium permanganate... What did you use that for? Dissinfecting plants? Snail removal?

Also...updated pics would be nice


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## jimmyjam (Nov 6, 2007)

Awesome! I just gave up on the 3d walled lake tang tank, and im going back to my love ... aquascaping. I think i have watched about 100 vids of aquascapes and amano today. I go no work done for the new clinic. I also went out and found a sick tree stump. Im gonna try to sink it in water. Im trying to find some reflective material. This tank is going to be in the wall of the first office, so I dont want ppl gazing into the room. Any ideas?


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## planter (Jun 9, 2008)

That's going be one awesome looking tank once the plants start to fill in. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Riceburner (Mar 14, 2008)

jimmyjam said:


> ... This tank is going to be in the wall of the first office, so I dont want ppl gazing into the room. Any ideas?


Put mirror film on your side of the tank. When they look into the tank from outside, they see a reflection. You get to see the tank from in the room, just a bit dimmed.


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## DaFishMan (Dec 19, 2006)

Acropora, you're on the money. 
The main thing is killing snail eggs, weakening algae, and making it easy to get snails off. (snails can survive bleach, pp, and alum) 

Jimmy,
Reflective material - roll of mylar and 2-sided tape. Looking forward to seeing this stump and your new tank ! Did you get rid of all your other plants and fish or did you save some things ?

Planter, thanks much. The last batch of vals and e latifolius appear same as planted, healthy. There are val runners first batch. I have downoi again for the front left but want to try growout in the 40g first. Hm maybe I'll split it up and make a mesh box to put over it. 

Green spot algae on the glass now and and green algae on the stump, so the tank has that well established look. Gives the recently added otos stuff to munch on, their bellys are plump ! 

I will be getting pics for you guys but am trying to await a 10mp, 15 opt zoom camera loaner lol. 

The nitrates are prob 20 something by now. In a plant tank you want approx 10 ?


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## acropora1981 (Aug 21, 2010)

DaFishMan said:


> Acropora, you're on the money.
> The main thing is killing snail eggs, weakening algae, and making it easy to get snails off. (snails can survive bleach, pp, and alum)


Do you have an article that describes the procedure or can you give me a review of it?


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## DaFishMan (Dec 19, 2006)

It's simple so can give an overview 

First the usual warning. Potassium permanganate (I will call pp for short) is considered a harmful chemical. I was told to use gloves, possible facemask, and while handling wear clothes you will not mind if it gets stained. If you get any on your skin rinse right away with water. That being said, I just take my time handling it, extra caution, no facemask, no gloves. I use a tshirt I've used for painting so I don't care if it gets stained. I wood chopsticks to handle the plants.

I use 1 container for the pp/water mix, 1 with tankwater for 'rough rinse' with a double dose of dechlor, then a 3rd just tankwater as a 'holding' 

First I go over the plants by hand, remove any visible snail eggs and snails.
Use enough pp to make the water purple (not pink), submerse the plants for exactly 10 and no more then 10 minutes. Move to container 2, give them a swish, move to holding. A step further, remove any damaged/weak leaves and give the roots a slight trim with sharp scissors. Ready to plant.



Did my first large maintenance yesterday.
Inspect and count the fish, all there, all look healthy.
Record temp: 78F, replanted 3 vals that had come up. brushed some algae off the stump, (left the green algae for the otos) scraped the inside front of the glass, swished around all the plants and over the substrate to stir up any detritus, removed approx half the water, added 2 caps Prime, then topped it up. 

I haven't really made a fert schedule yet but have lots of different fert around to use up. I should be using up the powders first, but dosed 7 caps excel, 2 caps kent potassium, 1 cap flourish comprehensive, 2 caps Azoo double blackwater.

New leaves inside the sword, getting reddish color again


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## acropora1981 (Aug 21, 2010)

Thanks so much for that procedure!

Are you not using macro fertz?


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## DaFishMan (Dec 19, 2006)

No problem, happy to help.

I've had fairly balanced tanks with no ferts but still want to learn more. The bit of green algae on the glass and wood is welcome for the otos but I don't want to get BBA or string algae or the clado stuff ever again. The 50% water change is new for me - a sign I'm trying to be more proactive on water quality.
At the same time it's a good habit to form if I move toward breeding or EI dosing. I'd like to nail down an EI schedule at some point.

In the meantime basically dosing excel, comp, potassium, iron. Occasionally whatever else I thow in, chelated traces etc... I think I have enough nitrates and phosphates. Still to test the phosphates I might do some test today.


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## acropora1981 (Aug 21, 2010)

I'll tell you - I was very hesitant to start dosing macro's, because I'm a saltwater guy and dosing nitrates and phosphates etc sounded like about the worst idea ever. However, since starting dosing macro's the algae has almost completely gone away, and the plants grow in much nicer. I can literally go 3 weeks without any algae on glass or anything. I know you didn't ask for my advice here, but hey, you helped with the potassium permanginate...

I don't use EI; I found a better way (for me anyway). I basically use Seachem's Nitrate test kit (sensitve down to about 2 ppm up to about 20 ppm). Anyway, I make a solution of 4 macro's using chemcials found at a Toronto hydroponics shop, Grow it All inc. , and a recipe I found online:

Into 2000 ml (2 liters, ie a large soda pop bottle) of distilled water dissolve: 
61 g (11 teaspoons) Potassium nitrate (KNO3) - 
5.2 g (1 teaspoons) Potassium monophosphate (KP04) 
10.8 g (2 teaspoons) Magnesium sulphate - (MgSO4)
1.8 g (0.3 or 1/3 teaspoon) Potassium sulphate (KSO4)
2-3 drops hydrochloric acid (HCL, muriatic acid, avail at canadian tire)

I then add about 1ml per gallon per week to start and use my nitrate test kit once a week or every other week to make sure I'm in about the right concentration (8-10 ppm nitrate). I don't worry about testing the other nutrients, because they seem to be in the right proportion as long as the nitrate is in line.

Thats it. Its very very easy. On some of my tanks I use a resevoir with a pump connected to a timer, and the pump turns on once a day for a minute and auto doses a little bit of fertilizer.

Anyway, just my own personal little method of macro dosing, which i find very very useful. Cheap too; i bought years worth of fertz for about $25.

oh, I dose trace too - Tropica Master Grow and a bit of iron for hemianthus, manually, once a week. No biggie.

I find the EI method too intensive and disruptive! Who wants to do a 50% change on a 90 gallon once a week!? I find the fish don't like that much disruption. I clean my tanks every 2 weeks, and I do maybe 30% max change.


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## DaFishMan (Dec 19, 2006)

"I know you didn't ask for my advice here, but"

Your input is welcome here, and thanks 

I picked up the 6-pack of hydroponic nutrients a few years ago after reading up on EI dosing, pmdd etc.. It's hardly touched, so I could try what you're mentioning. I'd need a scale though ! 

I like that you auto-dose the nutrients and don't have to do a 50% water change per week. 
Ok 10 nitrates ideal. Hoping I reached that with yesterdays w/c, that's what I was shooting for


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## acropora1981 (Aug 21, 2010)

DaFishMan said:


> "I know you didn't ask for my advice here, but"
> 
> Your input is welcome here, and thanks
> 
> ...


You can get a little digital scale from a pawn shop for about $30-40. I find mine extremely usefull for dosing, not just my plant tanks, but my marine tanks as well.

The auto-doser doesn't really have anything to do with the 50% water change; its just convenient.

In the EI method, you basically overdose every week on purpose and then do a 50% water change to compensate.

In my modified method, I use a nitrate test kit to get my nitrates very close to 10 ppm every week, and then re-adjust every week or so using the test kit to guide me as to how much to add. Eventually, you get to a point where you are adding the same amount every week, and testing is just to make sure you're on track.

The auto-dosers I use are basically so that I can go 2 weeks without doing anything to my tanks - its nessessary becuase I do these tanks for a living - I'm a service guy. I only see my clients tanks about every 2 weeks, so there needs to be a constant input of fertilizers, otherwise I get algae issues.

oh hey, one more thing, do you use a drop checker?


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## DaFishMan (Dec 19, 2006)

Well i appreciate the tips ! 

I'm very interested in trying your modified method & will try to get a scale.
For the fert doser do you use a purchased unit or did you make one ?

No drop checker yet, still have to get the tank.


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## acropora1981 (Aug 21, 2010)

DaFishMan said:


> Well i appreciate the tips !
> 
> I'm very interested in trying your modified method & will try to get a scale.
> For the fert doser do you use a purchased unit or did you make one ?
> ...


Ah ok ok... definately get a drop checker; also invaluable. .... Wait isnt the tank in the pics? Im confused. Or do you mean you still have to get the CO2 tank? If thats the case, try CamCarb. They have brand new 10lb tanks for $110, and you get the first fill with that cost as well. Near Finch and Weston road. Good quality tanks.

My auto doser consists of:

1. Digital timer, from home depot or lowes. Just make sure it can turn on and off in 1 minute intervals (some have only 5 minute intervals)

2. A maxi-jet 600

3. Tubing and a nozzle (hard plastic elbow that can be zip tied to the trim of the aquarium)

4. TLF ball valve (available at Big Al's) for flow control

5. A 5 gallon bucket.

6. zip ties(holds the ball vavle on, and the nozzle in place around trim of the aquarium)

Thats it. Its home made.

BTW, the same type of system can be built using an ATO (auto top off) device in place of the timer. That just uses a float valve sensor to top up with diluted fertz instead of a timer. Compensates for evaporative water loss.

Stop me if I'm going overboard here... I'm kind of an automation freak.


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## DaFishMan (Dec 19, 2006)

Camcarb is where I plan on going ! Then need brass air valve and power cord for the solenoid with a pilot light.

No worries. Automation simplifies things. My eheim auto-feeder I've been using for months now and I love it. 

I'll have to mull things over while I find a scale


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## acropora1981 (Aug 21, 2010)

DaFishMan said:


> Camcarb is where I plan on going ! Then need brass air valve and power cord for the solenoid with a pilot light.
> 
> No worries. Automation simplifies things. My eheim auto-feeder I've been using for months now and I love it.
> 
> I'll have to mull things over while I find a scale


Pilot light? Get a Milwaukee regs set and price match jlaquatics.com with bigalsonline.ca.

Love the eheim autos. Have five of em


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## DaFishMan (Dec 19, 2006)

I have dual stage regulator already and a solenoid. The power cord with a pilot light is just so I can confirm power on the solenoid.

5 ? Im still dreaming of buying the 2nd lol.


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## pat3612 (Jan 29, 2008)

Very nice love that driftwood. Great looking tank


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## acropora1981 (Aug 21, 2010)

any progress?


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