# This algae is making me crazy!



## Norman (Feb 13, 2011)

Ever since I upgraded my light fixture I've been dealing with algae. I got rid of some hair grass last week and now I'm seeing fluorescent green powder like algae on my tank and heater and even rocks. I'm using store bough RO water, parameters are all fine (salinity a bit on the low side) low phosphates... I run a skimmer but should I try a media reactor? Any suggestions? I'll add that it's a 30G tall tank, lightly stocked, quad aquatic life fixture with upgraded bulbs. Tank has been up for a year. Lights are on for about 10-12 hours per day....


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## liz (Jan 16, 2008)

Cut down on your photo period to about 6-8 hrs a day and add a reactor.


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## Brendle (Feb 18, 2014)

Or perhaps if it fits with your tank spend that money on an army of snails!


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## aquatic_expressions (Mar 17, 2006)

- Reduce Photo Period.
- Reduce Intensity If Possible
- Chemical Filtration May Help

I am sure it is just your tank trying to get used to the new light... it sound like filament algae... happens when you need bulbs changed and when you have brand new algae.


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## Norman (Feb 13, 2011)

Thanks for everyone's input. I'm using a hob filter with some carbon plus another small aqua clear with a bag of SWC Extreme NO3 PO4 Reduction Bio Media. Is that a mistake? Although I can't dim the lights I will cut the period in half. (the bulbs were new in November) Will that hurt my bubble tip anemone? 

For a 30G tank what would you suggest for a reactor size wise? I saw a Three Little Fishies phosban 550 (?) on sale on Amazon but no idea what I need to purchase... All suggestions appreciated.


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## aquatic_expressions (Mar 17, 2006)

You need be careful with bio pellets. From my understanding you need to transition them in an existing aquarium. Unfortunately I don't have experience with bio pellets.


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## Norman (Feb 13, 2011)

aquatic_expressions said:


> You need be careful with bio pellets. From my understanding you need to transition them in an existing aquarium. Unfortunately I don't have experience with bio pellets.


I started using them months ago, a teaspoon at a time. I think they're meant for reactors though...


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## Menace2Sobriety (Feb 7, 2014)

Norman said:


> Thanks for everyone's input. I'm using a hob filter with some carbon.....


Carbon is a common source of phosphates. Maybe yank the carbon and use live rock rubble as your HOB filter media?

Menace


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## sig (Dec 13, 2010)

Menace2Sobriety said:


> Carbon is a common source of phosphates. Maybe yank the carbon and use live rock rubble as your HOB filter media?
> 
> Menace


Please get some knowledge before you comment. Other peoples tanks are in stake and you can damage them by your advices.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1787367

"It reduces yellowing.
It exports organics and metals attached to them.
It binds organic toxins from the water.
It makes a great place for bacteria to grow for my organic carbon dosing.

Drawbacks may possibly include possibility of HLLE beign encouraged in some fish."

Randy Holmes-Farley

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## noy (Nov 19, 2012)

Norman said:


> I started using them months ago, a teaspoon at a time. I think they're meant for reactors though...


You need a reactor for biopellets. They need to tumble in order for them to be effective and you need to direct the effluent towards your skimmer or you may get a cyano bloom.

For a 30 gallon the phosban 150 is fine you just need to get the insert/webbing (or whatever that's is called) for biopellets.

You may want to try the Nitraguard cubes. Those you don't need a reactor - just an airstone inside the filter bag.

Can you take a picture of what you are talking about - it may just be green coralline which is fine.

Can you test and post your nitrate/phosphate levels?


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## Flameangel (Sep 25, 2013)

Not to totally disagree but activated carbon media can be a source of PO4 especially the cheap ones.Carbon made from coconut shells are better and more efficient but pricier.....100% no PO4.I ALWAYS use A.C. in a reactor to take care of clarity of the water and then some.


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## Norman (Feb 13, 2011)

noy said:


> You need a reactor for biopellets. They need to tumble in order for them to be effective and you need to direct the effluent towards your skimmer or you may get a cyano bloom.
> 
> For a 30 gallon the phosban 150 is fine you just need to get the insert/webbing (or whatever that's is called) for biopellets.
> 
> ...


Ok thanks. Well I took the bio-pellets out and put in some API phos-Zorb in the HOB. I did a few API tests on Friday after my regular water change: NA 0, AM 0, Phosphate .25 KH 10 pH 7.8 (this particular test is old I need to buy a new test)

I reduced the lights to 5 hours. Would have tried longer but my BTA has decided to wander looking for light I guess. Most of the grass is on the back wall of the tank but I see it's starting to grow on a new rock of a Star colony I just purchased. I have no idea how to post a photo afraid I'm not to internet savvy...

Edited to add: repeated tests tonight, same results as Friday.


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## noy (Nov 19, 2012)

Norman said:


> Ok thanks. Well I took the bio-pellets out and put in some API phos-Zorb in the HOB. I did a few API tests on Friday after my regular water change: NA 0, AM 0, Phosphate .25 KH 10 pH 7.8 (this particular test is old I need to buy a new test)
> 
> I reduced the lights to 5 hours. Would have tried longer but my BTA has decided to wander looking for light I guess. Most of the grass is on the back wall of the tank but I see it's starting to grow on a new rock of a Star colony I just purchased. I have no idea how to post a photo afraid I'm not to internet savvy...
> 
> Edited to add: repeated tests tonight, same results as Friday.


You phosphates are fairly high - you should try to get it down to 0.1 at a minimum. Its very odd you don't show nitrates - you should get another kit (like red sea or salifert) or see if someone can do a test for you - API's are notorious for being inaccurate - especially if the kit is older.

Overfeeding is the primary source of nitrates - check to make sure that's not the problem.

If its on the back glass why don't you just scrap it off.


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## Norman (Feb 13, 2011)

The phosphate test I'm using is an API and I believe the first level above 0 is .25 so you're right not terribly accurate but it is a new test and works fine with my other tanks so I don't think it's the test itself... 

Wouldn't scraping off the algae just spred it throughout the tank?


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