# Cutting glass with a drill bit



## gucci17 (Oct 11, 2007)

I started a new thread because Big Ray was starting to derail someone's powerhead thread. 

Anyways, I need to lower the water level around 3". I guess I need to take some pictures to help people understand. I'll try to do that when I drop by to see my tank (at the other house).

Basically, I would like to accomplish something similar to what is done in this thread - http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1894452

Or this but lower -


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## Will (Jul 24, 2008)

So, is there a question you have? You haven't posed one.

Ps, Cams Aquatics on Dundas street E, in sauga sells diamond tip hole cutter drill bits.


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## gucci17 (Oct 11, 2007)

Will Hayward said:


> So, is there a question you have? You haven't posed one.
> 
> Ps, Cams Aquatics on Dundas street E, in sauga sells diamond tip hole cutter drill bits.


lol you are exactly right, I didn't haha.

Was hoping someone could help me out 

I guess I could try it myself. Seems pretty basic...

Dremmel, diamond coated bit, water and patience?

That about it?


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## Will (Jul 24, 2008)

No dremmel, use a table press drill if possible, otherwise just a good quality corded or batter drill. Use playdough or clay or something to build a ring like moat around where the hole goes to create a pond of water to cool the glass during the cut.

You should watch some YouTube videos to see just how easy this is.


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## Tbird (Oct 5, 2009)

Make sure you wear a mask. Water is also to keep the extremely fine dust from floating in the air.


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## gucci17 (Oct 11, 2007)

Will Hayward said:


> No dremmel, use a table press drill if possible, otherwise just a good quality corded or batter drill. Use playdough or clay or something to build a ring like moat around where the hole goes to create a pond of water to cool the glass during the cut.
> 
> You should watch some YouTube videos to see just how easy this is.


I know how to drill holes. I was hoping to get help cutting my overflow lip lower.

Sorry, I'll try to explain a little better.

I am running an external overflow. The back panel of my tank has a 12" long notch already cut in the centre. That's where my water is flowing into the external overflow box. I want to create a deeper notch so it will lower my water level. That way I don't have to worry about water spilling everywhere when I install mp40's.


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## Tbird (Oct 5, 2009)

HAHAHA....sorry buddy!! I should have looked at the pictures on the link. I just read what Wil wrote and assumed you were drilling a hole.

A dremel would work. Could take a long time. What are the approximate dimensions you are cutting off? Is it on the side with the marker or on the other side? Maybe a glass company can do it quicker at a reasonable price?


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## Will (Jul 24, 2008)

I get what you're doing. Drill two holes at either end of the baffle, so that the top of the hole part of the hole is off the baffle edge. Then score the glass with a rule between the distance of the bottom of each hole. Then snap this part spanning between the two holes.

But really, a few holes in the baffle wall to let water through should be as good as any fancy smooth "U" shape cutout.

I guess your photos to come will bring the best advice.


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## gucci17 (Oct 11, 2007)

Tbird said:


> HAHAHA....sorry buddy!! I should have looked at the pictures on the link. I just read what Wil wrote and assumed you were drilling a hole.
> 
> A dremel would work. Could take a long time. What are the approximate dimensions you are cutting off? Is it on the side with the marker or on the other side? Maybe a glass company can do it quicker at a reasonable price?


lol no worries. The picture I provided isn't my pic, it's something I pulled off the net. It's an example of what I'm trying to accomplish.

I believe it's currently around 12" long and 1" deep but I want it to be around 3" deep.

Sorry I'm not really good at explaining things.


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## 50seven (Feb 14, 2010)

Or use a diamond cutting wheel on an angle grinder for the long straight part, and a Dremel for the edges.


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## wtac (Mar 17, 2006)

Depending on thickness of the glass and how much lower you want the notch to be, it's not going to be an easy process with an already built aquarium.

Usually, a diamond coated blade on a wet table saw is used to "shave" off the excess as less than 2" is hard to break cleanly on glass 1/2" or thicker. 

IMHO, the MP40's shouldn't make any crest/splash issues unless it's a rimless aquarium. Another option is Euro bracing.

HTH/JM2C


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## gucci17 (Oct 11, 2007)

50seven said:


> Or use a diamond cutting wheel on an angle grinder for the long straight part, and a Dremel for the edges.


That might be an option if I can fit the angle grinder in the spot I need to cut.

Here's another picture I'm borrowing to show you guys the situation I'm in. There is one piece of glass that spans lenthwise across the back top of the tank. With the overflow cutout underneath.


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## wtac (Mar 17, 2006)

How deep is the notch, dimension and gph of the return pump?


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## gucci17 (Oct 11, 2007)

wtac said:


> How deep is the notch, dimension and gph of the return pump?


Sorry, I'm out right now but on the top of my head here are some details.

The notch is approx. 1" high 12" long possibly (if you take two rows of eggcrate that height would fit in the notch)

Dimensions of the tank are 48"L x 28"W x 20"H

Return pump is a laguna max-flo 2000 but will adjust the flow to match the drain and I will be building a manifold for the plumbing.


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## Chromey (Sep 25, 2010)

Princess auto Sells alot of Diamond cutting tools, At good price.

Bad side, Most of it is a 1 time use, But really, How many overflows are you planing on cutting LOL


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## kev416 (Aug 22, 2010)

Ideally a Makita diamond notching saw would do the trick.


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## wtac (Mar 17, 2006)

Hmm. On a clients ~150gal cube system that has a 2" deep, 12" wide notch, BlueLine 55HD ([email protected]') that pushes ~950gph @6'H from the sump, the water rises 1/2"-3/4" above the bottom of the notch.

The Laguna Max Flo pushes [email protected]'. I'm pretty sure that it's going to hit the Eurobrace so you're going to have to dial it down. You're aq'm is ~116gal and you're going to get a turnover rate of ~13-17x...waaaay too much, IMHO. You should be aiming for 4-6x turnover rate, IMHO.

Makes me wonder why they notched it 1" deep...should have been at least 1.5", IMHO.

Oh well, what's done is done. Let's work with it and get you off to a great start .


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## gucci17 (Oct 11, 2007)

wtac said:


> Hmm. On a clients ~150gal cube system that has a 2" deep, 12" wide notch, BlueLine 55HD ([email protected]') that pushes ~950gph @6'H from the sump, the water rises 1/2"-3/4" above the bottom of the notch.
> 
> The Laguna Max Flo pushes [email protected]'. I'm pretty sure that it's going to hit the Eurobrace so you're going to have to dial it down. You're aq'm is ~116gal and you're going to get a turnover rate of ~13-17x...waaaay too much, IMHO. You should be aiming for 4-6x turnover rate, IMHO.
> 
> ...


Yeah the flow will get dialed down for sure. I do have an eheim 1262 that I could use as well if I can't tune the laguna properly.

I don't know why this tank was designed this way. This tank was from Aquarium Obsessed before they closed down. It is also not a complete eurobrace. There is no front or side braces just one strip of glass across the back with drilled holes w/ bulkheads for returns over top. Sorry I didn't get a chance to take any pictures yet. May have to wait a day or two.

This is why I am afraid of spillage if I have two mp40's hooked up. 

I need to lower that water line somehow....

The external overflow has two 2" holes. One as a drain the other was used as a return bushed down to 1" I think.


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## ameekplec. (May 1, 2008)

You don't have to have the MP-40s close to the surface to agitate it so much it spills out - that's what the overflow and skimmer will take care of. The overflow will nicely expose the surface of the tank for gas exchange, and the skimmer will nicely aerate the water.

Remember, it's not the size of the wave, but the motion within the ocean


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## wtac (Mar 17, 2006)

IMHO/E, it would be easier to complete the Eurobrace and dial down the pump than try to shave off another 1/2"...no risk of breaking the pane nor tools to buy that you're going to use once and take a loss when you sell it


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## gucci17 (Oct 11, 2007)

ameekplec. said:


> You don't have to have the MP-40s close to the surface to agitate it so much it spills out - that's what the overflow and skimmer will take care of. The overflow will nicely expose the surface of the tank for gas exchange, and the skimmer will nicely aerate the water.
> 
> Remember, it's not the size of the wave, but the motion within the ocean


Yeah, I am hoping that it won't cause too much agitation. So I'll need to find the right balance of height placement. I don't want tsunamis and/or sand storms. I may go with all special grade sand in hopes that it will stay down.



wtac said:


> IMHO/E, it would be easier to complete the Eurobrace and dial down the pump than try to shave off another 1/2"...no risk of breaking the pane nor tools to buy that you're going to use once and take a loss when you sell it


You're probably right Wilson. I was hoping that I wouldn't have to add the eurobrace but in this case it makes more sense. I suppose I can always fill it and try out the mp40s first. I'm not too concerned with buying tools as they are always good to have but I wouldn't want to crack the back panel due to my lack of experience.

I've never made a eurobrace before so this will be my first. I want to continue the theme of an inside eurobrace. Would 1/16" off the end of each piece of glass enough room for silicone to glue to the outer walls but not too tight at the same time?

Decisions, decisions, decisions...


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## wtac (Mar 17, 2006)

I love buying tools as well, but I have to justify that I'll use it enough to warrant the purchase . 

Euro bracing is pretty simple, the process is just like assembling an aquarium...it's all about surface prep. I suggest that getting the glass cut and polished by a glass company with the same thickness as the other brace. Is the other EB inside as well? If so, you are going to lose that height accommodate the rise of water flow.

Bugger it all, eh?


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## gucci17 (Oct 11, 2007)

wtac said:


> I love buying tools as well, but I have to justify that I'll use it enough to warrant the purchase .
> 
> Euro bracing is pretty simple, the process is just like assembling an aquarium...it's all about surface prep. I suggest that getting the glass cut and polished by a glass company with the same thickness as the other brace. Is the other EB inside as well? If so, you are going to lose that height accommodate the rise of water flow.
> 
> Bugger it all, eh?


I guess I'll just have to make up any excuse just to drill/cut glass lol.

Would you have any glass companies you can recommend in Mississauga?

Yes the back EB is inside. I believe it's 1/2" glass that's around 3"-4" wide to accomodate for 3/4" bulkheads for the returns.

This is driving me nuts...I need to drop by the house and take some pics and measurements. It might be all be in my head...lol


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## wtac (Mar 17, 2006)

Unfortunately I don't...from one company that I got a quote in Markham that was referred to me by someone that uses them alot, the $$$ was stupid crazy for glass tops.

Man, 1/2" thick inside EB with a 1" deep notch...man...it's not getting easier to get it up and running...I feel for ya


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## gucci17 (Oct 11, 2007)

wtac said:


> Unfortunately I don't...from one company that I got a quote in Markham that was referred to me by someone that uses them alot, the $$$ was stupid crazy for glass tops.
> 
> Man, 1/2" thick inside EB with a 1" deep notch...man...it's not getting easier to get it up and running...I feel for ya


Ouch...when I was Miracles back in the day we used to have sword fights with off cuts lol. Safely of course...that and we would smash glass into the dumpsters. Or take the cores of drilled holes and whip them into cracked or leakers in the back. Thinking back to all this sucks because if I was really into the hobby back then, I would have a really sick setup. haha...

I almost at the point that I will forego any modifications and just proceed with the setup. It might not be as bad as I think. ..I hope


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## wtac (Mar 17, 2006)

You never know 

Fingers crossed


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## Tbird (Oct 5, 2009)

Hey D,

Youcan try the place I got my lids. I can't remember the name but they are on Dundas just west of National sports onthe south side. Mississauga Glass I think? Yellow sign and right beside a scuba shop. They are only open in the morning on Saturdays and something like 8-4:30 during the week.

Wil


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## gucci17 (Oct 11, 2007)

Tbird said:


> Hey D,
> 
> Youcan try the place I got my lids. I can't remember the name but they are on Dundas just west of National sports onthe south side. Mississauga Glass I think? Yellow sign and right beside a scuba shop. They are only open in the morning on Saturdays and something like 8-4:30 during the week.
> 
> Wil


Oh that's right, I forgot about that. Thanks bruthuhhh


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## gucci17 (Oct 11, 2007)

Ok I dropped by and took some pictures. Excuse the tank, it's still needs a good cleaning.


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## loonie (Mar 29, 2008)

Just for your info, the shop in Dundas as mention, he is a nice guy but you have to give him the measurement in inches. He will not cut for you if you say, the cutting must be 100percent perfect and he fear you will want a refund. So be flexible, give and take 0.5mm or so.

Aquatic Kingdom do drill holes for $25 per hole. You have to bring the tank to them. But I do not know whether they will go to your place to do the job.


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## gucci17 (Oct 11, 2007)

loonie said:


> Just for your info, the shop in Dundas as mention, he is a nice guy but you have to give him the measurement in inches. He will not cut for you if you say, the cutting must be 100percent perfect and he fear you will want a refund. So be flexible, give and take 0.5mm or so.
> 
> Aquatic Kingdom do drill holes for $25 per hole. You have to bring the tank to them. But I do not know whether they will go to your place to do the job.


Thanks for the info loonie. Unfortunately, I do need to be accurate with these pieces if I decide to complete the EB.

I don't want to drill holes, it's the notch that I would like to lower.


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