# ick on clown loaches, and tiny fry



## scruss (Jun 30, 2006)

The clown loaches in our community tank have ick. They responded reasonably well to QuIck Cure last time, but the ick's back.

To complicate matters, we now have some tiny (5 days) platy fry. I'm guessing the QuIck cure would do bad things to them, yes?

We don't have a quarantine/nursery tank, and don't really have time/space to set up a separate tank.

Suggestions, please.

cheers,
Stewart


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## wtac (Mar 17, 2006)

Time is of the essence when it comes to ich and clown loaches. Just do the 1/2 dose for the size of the aquarium and not worry about the fry. It may sound harsh to subject the fry to the meds but they are very resilient since they are practically fully developed when born. If they were egg hatchlings, that would be a different story.

If you have salt on hand (pickling, aquarium, kosher, epsom) add about 1tsp/5gal. Remove carbon and add QC everyday until the white spots have been gone for 3-5 days. QC doesn't actually kill the white spots on the body but disrupts the ich development when it is in the free swimming stages, killing it before it implants into the fish. I suggest 10-25% water changes daily or every other day prior to adding more QC.

Also raise the temp to 80-82*F and add an airstone or lower the water volume to that there is more surface agitation to keep the water well oxygenated as ich can also implant on the gill membrane, reducing O2/Co2 exchange.

HTH


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## scruss (Jun 30, 2006)

Thanks, Wilson! I'm now doing all of the above.

So the dire warning about only using QC for two days doesn't apply?


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## wtac (Mar 17, 2006)

The warning on the product errs on the side of caution for those not too familiar with it's mode of action. From experience, one can dose daily without problems provided that other factors, especially water changes, are followed. 

Not to add more worry to you but keep a close eye on skin "clarity", breathing rates and physical behaviour: 

Sometimes they may develop secondary bacterial infections from the ich parent body as it does perforate the slime coat. Sort of looks like the haze before buffing a waxed car. IF it's a slight haze, it's treatable. If it's very hazy and raised looking, not a good sign . 

Increased breath rate generally cause from ich parent bodies on the gill membrane, QC sensitivity and/or presence of ammonia and/or nitrITE. QC can hamper the nitrification process so I suggest testing for those parameters just to be on the safe side.

With physical behaviour, if they "flash"/scrape themselves on objects, it's more ich developing on the body. If they "stream" (swimming against the current from filter/powerhead output), that's not a good sign either.

If all seems fine then let's not worry. Just keep an eye on those potential problems and we'll cross that road if need be.

Best of luck  and HTH


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## scruss (Jun 30, 2006)

Thanks again. They don't seem to be physically bothered by it; all the fish are active, bright scales/skin. The loaches *very* occasionally flick against rocks, but they've always done that.

The platy fry are unperturbed by all this; they're growing fast, and now look like 1/8-scale models of their high-fin parents. The adult female looks like she's carrying, again ...


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## IMCL85 (Sep 4, 2007)

remove the fry to a bucket or some kind with the tank water and set a small box like filter from big al $10.99 each ? they use this for betta's tank, they should be fine in there for week or so. and raise ur temperature to some where arround 88-90F some plant will not be able to handle this temperature so u might need to remove them to a hospital tank for now. Add salt to ur tank just use half of the dosage u usually use for normal fish, . I encounter ich probably a few time when my clown was small and I find this is the best treatment for a tank size like mine. And remove them from their original tank might cause more stress so rather leave it be. And salt is cheap .


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## MT-ED (Apr 4, 2006)

Clowns really need keeping at higher temperatures all the time. My tank is at around 82-83F as its normal set temperature. You need lots of water movement too as Clowns have high oxygen requirements.
I can't give practical advice on Ich as the last time any of my fish experienced it was in the early 70's.....I'm not joking.

Martin.


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## IMCL85 (Sep 4, 2007)

MT-ED said:


> Clowns really need keeping at higher temperatures all the time. My tank is at around 82-83F as its normal set temperature. You need lots of water movement too as Clowns have high oxygen requirements.
> I can't give practical advice on Ich as the last time any of my fish experienced it was in the early 70's.....I'm not joking.
> 
> Martin.


holy crap 70's so I guess u r atleast 50 by now 40 years with out ich is amazing I encounter them every time when I introducing new loach to my tank. Really hate it when that happens but as my loach is getting bigger their resistance to ich also raise alot. Nowaday even if my smaller loach got infect the bigger r still remain ich less.


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## MT-ED (Apr 4, 2006)

Err...yeah, 55 going on 56  I seldom get involved in any disease thread anywhere because I don't have a lot to offer in experience with it, but I saw Clowns were involved here and that's something I do know about.

Martin.


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## Pablo (Mar 27, 2006)

My suggestion here would be not to use medications as scalelessfish react poorly, and simply remove the platys, treat them with medication if desired (as they react poorly to high temperatures) and raise the tanks temperature (quickly- like just set your heater to it in one go) to about 85 or 86 and increase aeration as much as possible. 90 powerheads, 35 air pumps, a fat guy with a paddle, everything youve got.

A couple of days after all signs of ich are gone lower the temperature but to no less than 82 or 83 as Martin was saying Clowns dislike cooler water than that and they always need a lot of current space aeration and very clean water.


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## dr_sudz (Sep 12, 2007)

I would not personally use the quick cure with the clown loaches as they are more sensitve to the copper in the meds. I would add the aqaurium salts though and raise the temprature to the high 80's (87-89). Also add extra pumps to get more air into the tank, or add a bubble line. When the ick is gone I would still keep the temp up close to 82-84 as this will help prevent the fish from getting sick again.


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## Pablo (Mar 27, 2006)

Clown loaches NEED it that hot to be healthy. 82 minimum 83 84 is better, lots of current, and these conditions constantly.

84 will kill ich guaranteed. no meds needed


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