# ro/di unit reading 45 tds.



## peacocks (Aug 7, 2011)

i bought a used ro/di unit and its a bulk reef one. rated for 75 gallons per hour but the user changed the membrane to 150 gallons per hour. the problem im having is the tds meter is reading 45 ppm. its suppose to be 0 as i recall. do i need to change the di cartridge and do a refill or is it something else?

thanks.


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## altcharacter (Jan 10, 2011)

You might have some of the tubes hooked up wrong. I've seen it before and I know a few people that have done it also. 

Although you might be right about changing the filters and cartridges. Best way to tell is to take a pic from the top of your unit so we can see what's going on.


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## peacocks (Aug 7, 2011)

i bought it used. i havnt hooked it up yet. but its reading the water thats in there atm as it is.

heres pics.


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## J_T (Mar 25, 2011)

Is it reading before the DI? 

If so,

Check that the RO membrane is actually seated properly. Some people when they install it, don't get it pushed in all the way. 

Look up "flush" valves. It is a way of bypassing the flow restrictor. It allows the water to rush past the membrane, "flushing" away any debris that may be accumilating. Easy to make one.


What is the TDS after the DI unit?

The first filter (one on the left) looks like it has done its job. I would change out all the prefilters so you know when they were put in. And since you have some extra changes, it isn't a big deal!


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## peacocks (Aug 7, 2011)

out tds is 46, in tds is 100 +. cant rememb the number exactly. i just picked it up from the guy and played with the digital reader. its reading this and brought my concern up cuz it should be 0. ill change the di stuff he gave some new ones so ill refill it and hopefully have it connected to produce some water!

as for the flush, its installed at the top. so i plug it in and open the valve or what?



J_T said:


> Is it reading before the DI?
> 
> If so,
> 
> ...


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## peacocks (Aug 7, 2011)

k i connected it today. heres a update.

my in reading is less than my out reading. is that bad?

for example my in is .05 where my out would be .10 or .9


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## altcharacter (Jan 10, 2011)

they might be backwards or something. Just because it says in, it might not be the in.

Although I would have one of the reefers here come over and take a look at it to make sure it's hooked up right.

PM me if you need a hand with it. I might just bring cookies!


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## peacocks (Aug 7, 2011)

altcharacter said:


> they might be backwards or something. Just because it says in, it might not be the in.
> 
> Although I would have one of the reefers here come over and take a look at it to make sure it's hooked up right.
> 
> PM me if you need a hand with it. I might just bring cookies!


lol. i appreciate it. since that post about 40 mins or hour, the reading changed

in is 4 and out is 2.

so now it looks to be right. but the in i didnt know my house produced only 4 ppm. mayb because the filters r cleaning it more. but still at 2 ppm after di. hopefully it goes down more when it hits 1. if not ill have to refill my di resin i think.


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## sig (Dec 13, 2010)

did you check ratio between clean water and waste water? I also suggest that you borrow TDS meter and check the water

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## conix67 (Jul 27, 2008)

It sounds like the reading comes from the waste water, not filtered water, unless the filter in some stage is badly contaminated.


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## peacocks (Aug 7, 2011)

sig said:


> did you check ratio between clean water and waste water? I also suggest that you borrow TDS meter and check the water


There's definitely more waste water to good water being made. As the tds meter is jumping from 1-3


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## altcharacter (Jan 10, 2011)

if you have a TDS of 2 I wouldn't worry at all. Alot of people don't change their carts until it reaches 30 or even 40. If you think about it, my water for instance is at 187ppm and if it were 30 then it's a hell of alot better than 187. Although we strive for 0 it's not a necessity. 

I've heard of one member here stretching it to 60...but he's crazy 

Also on a side note, the 4ppm is probably water going into the DI unit...or atleast thats my theory. I don't know of any tap water with a TDS of 4


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## sig (Dec 13, 2010)

i will try last time to clarify. Would you like if for each 1G of the clean water the unit will produce 10G of waste?

If DO membrane was exposed to air the membrane will became useless and should be replaced

try to think what i am saying and why I made these suggestions in the previous post

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## Chromey (Sep 25, 2010)

I Start to think about changing Things when my TDS Out of my DI is 5-10ppm

I change my 5 micron and 1 micron Carbon filters every 3 months.

I just ordered another Membrane, The last 1 was used for over 2 years without a issue.

And i agree with what Greg is saying, If your only making 1 gallon of RO/DI vs 10Gallons of Garbage, You have other issues to think about.


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## sig (Dec 13, 2010)

Chromey said:


> I
> 
> I change my 5 micron and 1 micron Carbon filters every 3 months.
> .


Why? I usually run at 0 and ~ every 6 months I change prefilters and DI.
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## Chromey (Sep 25, 2010)

For the first Year I was Changing all The time, Trying to keep a "0" TDS, But a month or 2 after, Everytime, The TDS would start to creep, But Only a bit.
It Stays at 1-5 for 3 months.

After getting the Water tested for Acton, And talking to a few local Water nuts, Who happen to own Salt tanks too, Explained to me that, Acton Has Higher TDS,Low Phosphates, But Great water otherwise.
2 other Local People run tap water only, And have Record growth, "0" algae.
Id like to be able to name them, But they Asked that i dont.

Im still able to have a Algae free system With 5 TDS, But My Cheato Does grow like mad, And Mangroves too.


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## peacocks (Aug 7, 2011)

ok im trying to open the canisters but the dam things dont open. i put all my energy into opening them and nothing, my arm kills just trying. i used the circle thing that firmly grips the canisters with no luck. is it because of the water pressure in the canisters? please help. i have the supply line valve turned off!


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## J_T (Mar 25, 2011)

Righty tighty, lefty loosey  

Once you get them off, they only need to be hand tight when put back on. The ruber o ring will stop any drips with just hand pressure. And if it does drip, add some pressure from the wrench.

Posted with my Xperia, using Tapatalk 2


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## peacocks (Aug 7, 2011)

J_T said:


> Righty tighty, lefty loosey
> 
> Once you get them off, they only need to be hand tight when put back on. The ruber o ring will stop any drips with just hand pressure. And if it does drip, add some pressure from the wrench.
> 
> Posted with my Xperia, using Tapatalk 2


Prob is I can't open it its too tight I got to release the water in it


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## J_T (Mar 25, 2011)

Undo the hoses at the pre filters, the first one, and last one.

Posted with my Xperia, using Tapatalk 2


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## peacocks (Aug 7, 2011)

k so i changed the di canister out and replaced with brand new. the reading is pretty stable at 4 and its been about 1 hour 30 mins.

any suggestions or do i got to let it run more. my in is less than my out.


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## Chromey (Sep 25, 2010)

I would have replaced the Cheaper filters first before tossing in a New DI chamber thats getting hit with alot of TDS.

The DI wont last Long.

Basic trouble shooting 101, Start with the cheapest part first.


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## peacocks (Aug 7, 2011)

Chromey said:


> I would have replaced the Cheaper filters first before tossing in a New DI chamber thats getting hit with alot of TDS.
> 
> The DI wont last Long.
> 
> Basic trouble shooting 101, Start with the cheapest part first.


The thing is my in from filters are 4 or 2. My out after the DI is like 2. Meaning it isn't doing anything


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