# DC_ADDICT 280 Gallon Build



## dc_addict

If you have been following my last build thread you will know I have shut down my 150 Gallon Peninsula tank in order to upgrade. I have purchased a new home and wanted to go larger, plus the Peninsula Style tank just didnt work in the new house. This build is also happening at the same time as a major renovation on the home so it has been taking a bit longer than anticipated. Here are some progress pics so far with more to come after the weekend.

Here is the living room/Kitchen the way the house was purchased, not the best pic, but the tank will be going on the wall near the door beside the stairs.










Here is the very start of the reno, wall taken down from the kitchen as it will all be an open floor plan.










I purchased this tank and stand used it was at Aquatic Kingdom, but I felt like the stand needed more support. I removed some 1x2 studs and replaced with more 2x4, this is the frame of the stand.









Here is my girlfriend helping with painting the inside of the stand to be white.









Somewhat finished product. Still need to do the doors and trim, but I will be working with 50Seven on making this look as great as the last setup he did for me. You can see the Starfire 280 Gallon tank in the background as well.









Last pic is to give an idea of the rest of the work going on in the house, its been a ton of work!









I also have decided to upgrade my 3 AI Sol Blue lights to 4 AI Hydra 52's. Cant wait to see how this lighting works out, but from turning them on at home so far they look amazing!!









More pics to follow as progress is made.


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## fesso clown

Congrats! That's going to be an awesome tank! If only I had the space....
Glad Kevin is helping with the stand, your last one was awesome!
We are doing the floors in our house one side good sanded, stained and polyurethaned plywood. Looking at your stand skin it is similar. Just might knik that idea for my stand . I hadn't thought of that. 


Following along.


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## corpusse

Good luck with this build. I almost bought this tank, but ended up just with a 180 for now. I was thinking peninsula since it was undrilled, but I'm sure it will look great anyway. 30" high makes it look so much bigger.


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## dragon1974

Let me know when you're ready for my sump


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## explor3r

Congrats on the house and on the upgrade Im sure you have your hands real busy these days. 
Keep the pictures coming!!!


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## dc_addict

So I wwill be putting the sump in the basement even though I have tons of room under the tank in the stand. I am doing this to make it quieter mostly, but I was thinking about putting a display refugium in the lower stand and not putting doors on it. I am usually pretty good with designing this type of thing, but I can't come up with a design that would look good wide open but still allow access. 

Here is what I thought about doing.
On the left door opening make an acrylic tank that would be fairly narrow but would full the entire opening. It would take the water from the top tank at a low flow and continue down to the sump to be returned back to the display. 
I was then thinking to put a seahorse tank on the other opening, using its own water source due to the requirements of seahorses being different than a reef tank. 

Issues with this setup are very hard to access the refugium and seahorse tank as I would have to get to it through the side of the stand and the distance would be longer than I could reach. 

Any ideas are appreciated. A few more pics will follow after the weekend, got a few more goodies in


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## J_T

Well, whatever design you come up with, it will look good.

What about making it so you could pull it out on a track?


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## rickcasa

Squeeze some white caulking at the joints inside your stand to contain any minor leakage. I'd even go as far as drilling a floor drain inside there hooked up to your basement laundry tub. Extra precaution goes a long way.

Good luck with the build!


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## wtac

IME, the DAP Alex doesn't really hold if there is alot of movement from contraction/expansion. Been using LePage QUAD for sealing gaps after using it putting in new windows and door on the house. The paint will peel before it does.

$3 vs $7...I know but I over engineer/build EVERYTHING that I do...LOL!


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## dc_addict

Good idea's guys thanks for the help.. Not tons of updates but here is what I have.

I picked up one of these 100 Gallon water containers, other one should be in next week. This one will be for salt water, other for fresh water.









Very excited to be putting this in place, here is the transfer switch for the Generac Standby Generator which will keep the tank running regardless of the ice storms that come this winter.









More updates as they come.


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## dc_addict

A few more updates, tank and stand are now in place and the tank has been drilled.


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## ameekplec.

Wow, very cool. I'm sure this build will be awesome.


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## notclear

How big is the gap between the tank and the back wall? I made a mistake that I only leave 2" gap. You better leave at least 3" so in case in the future if you want to add some pumps such as Ecotech, then you still have the option to do that.


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## dc_addict

notclear said:


> How big is the gap between the tank and the back wall? I made a mistake that I only leave 2" gap. You better leave at least 3" so in case in the future if you want to add some pumps such as Ecotech, then you still have the option to do that.


Yeah I noticed that issue when I put the tank in place, I dont want to have such a large gap especially as the tank is beside a main walkway in the house. Right now I have a Sea Swirl on order which should be in early next week, I will be putting that on the return at the right side of the tank and using two MP40's on the far left end of the tank. I will most likely use some other form of pump in the middle of the tank, but not an MP40/60 product as it is simply too large to keep the tank near the back.

Just finished placing my order for all the plumbing supplies, will have more pics and progress as soon as it arrives. Also working with 50Seven again on a new skin for the tank and the canopy, wasn't that happy with the 1SG plywood base.


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## ameekplec.

Can you put the tank 3-4" away from the wall and have a removable trim that can act as a cover panel for the gap? I believe I've seen that before for other systems so you can at least grab stuff that falls behind the tank.


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## wtac

Just curious why you have the hole drilled on the right side for the overflow? From a design perspective, it should be on the left WRT the space.

Easy enough to silicone a plate to cover the right side holes and drill on the left if it's not too late in the build process.

JMHO


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## 50seven

Wow... that's a lot of work in the place, and good call on removing the kitchen wall. But that's a big mess taking down all the old insulation! Fun fun fun!

Thanks for bringing me on the project. The stand is going to be very beautiful when completed!


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## dc_addict

wtac said:


> Just curious why you have the hole drilled on the right side for the overflow? From a design perspective, it should be on the left WRT the space.
> 
> Easy enough to silicone a plate to cover the right side holes and drill on the left if it's not too late in the build process.
> 
> JMHO


I have holes on the left and right side. I have the two main drains both 1.5" on the left side of the tank, one drain will be full syphon the other will skim the top. I have placed the return (1") on the right side and an emergency drain (1.5") on the right side as well, but this should not be used unless something goes wrong with the other drains.

Looking forward to sending more updates, I moved into the house last night so the majority of the construction is now complete so I can focus on getting this tank setup. Just waiting on the overflow boxes and plumbing components to arrive and more updates will follow.


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## wtac

Gotcha 

[This makes over 10 characters]


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## noy

ameekplec. said:


> Wow, very cool. I'm sure this build will be awesome.


+1 following along


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## dc_addict

Received some of the plumbing supplies today as well as a few new goodies.










Hope to get to the plumbing this Friday, so long as the rest of the pieces arrive in time. 

Also did end up moving the tank out from the wall 3", I think that was a good recommendation.


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## 12273

If you can snorkel in your own tank I am jealous. That's a HUGE tank!!!!! 


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## dc_addict

Things are progressing, plumbing is mostly done now. Just need my overflows and I can add water.


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## explor3r

Looking good red looks very nice


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## dc_addict

No picture updates yet, but looking for advise on my water change plan. My sump is located in the basement and I was thinking of putting a Y on my return line with a Gate Valve off each Y. Then plumbing the one Y directly into my ABS sewer line. I could then turn on my return pump and pump the water directly into the sewer, i am not sure if this is OK to do this or would I have any issues at all?


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## sig

dc_addict said:


> No picture updates yet, but looking for advise on my water change plan. My sump is located in the basement and I was thinking of putting a Y on my return line with a Gate Valve off each Y. Then plumbing the one Y directly into my ABS sewer line. I could then turn on my return pump and pump the water directly into the sewer, i am not sure if this is OK to do this or would I have any issues at all?


Do not do it, since you will need to stop the cycle (you will drain more than return). Probably it will be OK, but I prefer different method

There is a way to do water change when pump runs in full mode and you do not redirect return flow from the tank. Juts make proper baffles configuration. In my sump it was:

low panel sits on the bottom >>> High panel with the gap under it >>>>> low panel sits on the bottom. In this way yuo can have as much water as you need to take out and flow will continue.

Just make sure you will have enough space remained to accept water from the tank in case of the emergence pump stopage

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## wtac

Depending how you baffles are set up in the sump, if the water level is the same in the return pump section and the compartment before it, this will work:

Drill for a 1" bulkhead in the section before the pump return so that the top of the bulkead flange is ~1" below the water level. 

Inside the sump, install an elbow so that the the bottom of the open end is at the water level. Outside the sump put a TUBV and plumb to the floor drain. When the TUBV is open, it will drain to that level.

In the return section, plumb for the NSW filling. The GPH pumping NSW should be the slightly lower than the return pump GPH with flow loss factored in should you want to do a gravel vac prior to the water change.

Also, turn off your powerheads for about 5 mins prior to doing just a "dain and fill" water change. The less mixing in the DT of NSW with "aged" water the better to increase the ideal % water change.

Doing the water change, open the drain TUBV and start filling with NSW. The NSW will be pumped into the DT and altough water will rise in the sump, it will also drain. When the NSW is finished pumping, just wait until the water level drops to the elbow lip and close the valve. 

JME


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## dc_addict

Had a full day Sunday messing around with the setup, plumbing now is almost done. I have spent about 15 hours plumbing this tank, definitely more work this time running the sump into the basement than last time having it right below the tank. Probably another 2 hours and all plumbing will be complete.

A bit messy downstairs, but here it is so far.



















Here is the tank with the overflows in place, the back the sides where the overflows are now done in Plastidip.




























More updates to come!


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## J_T

I would advise against the eggcrate on the bottom. It traps detrius. And lots of it. 

If you are looking to not have the rock on the glass, cut up some cutting boards (the plastic ones)


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## Davenreef

Love the remote sump. Looks really good. Will be following the build.


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## fesso clown

Looking great! 
I also advise against the eggcrate, Initially I was going to use small pieces of eggcrate at the points of contact under some of my rock islands but then after some research I decided to nix it altogether. Besides that what people were saying about trapping crap what I was worrying about was scratching the BOTTOM of my tank that will be hidden under rock and sand... 

I am very jealous of the fishroom!


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## wtac

Overall...looks good. Just a few considerations to bring to light should issues arise with the plumbing:

Off the pump outlet, using a barbed fitting into the flex PVC restricts flow moreso than using the PVC reducing bushings, especially at the beginning of the run vs at the end.

Changing it to a TUBV will make pump servicing/swop out easier and secure vs trying to tighten the ring clamps the 2nd/3rd time, etc.

If I'm following the drain plan correctly, the main overflow on one side is "Herbie" standpipe with the 3rd as an emerg in the other overflow. For a Herbie to be quiet with minimal bubbling at the sump, the gale valve should be placed at/near the end of the drain run.

Keep at it


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## dc_addict

Thanks for the feedback WTAC, I will be making some changes based on your information..

I am now looking for more help as I continue this process which is taking much longer than I anticipated. I have had numerous issues with leaks in my plumbing and fixed all of them earlier this week and began filling my tank.. Getting over 300 Gallons of RO water takes a while so I have had the tank slowly getting more water added to it each day.. Finally yesterday I had enough water to completely fill the tank and the sump and begin running the two systems together.  When I did this I noticed one problem...

The water level from the left side of the tank to the right side was off by 1/4 of an inch. I couldnt understand this as I had levelled the tank before I filled it with water.. I grabbed my level placed it on the top of the glass and it appeared to be fine.. The level was a fairly cheap level so I also took a tape measure and measured a few things, I measured the water level from the bottom of the brace on each side, my eyes were correct 1/4 inch off. I measure the distance from the bottom of the tank to the bottom of the Euro brace, it was exactly equal. I went to the basement and used my jack stand under that corner and lifted it as much as I could, this make the water level 3/16 of an inch off on the one side now. After this I decided to shut the tank down and drained the water back to about 50% full as I was worried about the tank breaking as happened to me in the past. 
This evening I went and purchased a very good level and drained the tank 100% empty. I put the level on the top of the tank, its perfect, on the bottom, its perfect, rechecked my measurements on the Euro Brace and they are perfect. I put the level on the bottom frame of my stand and it is off a bit, but if I shim it up I would think that would make the tank itself not level..

How is this possible? I feel like I must be missing something very obvious, but I dont know what it would be.. I want to start getting the rock and sand in the tank, but I dont want to do any of this if the tank is not safe to be holding water. Any help is appreciated, I am 100% lost here. 
Only other thing to mention is I have the Styrofoam base under the tank and I dont know if that could be causing this somehow?


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## fesso clown




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## dc_addict

basically the same thing as this guy is saying is my issue.. I have pictures of the level on the top of the tank, in the tank, etc and all look fine, but the water level is not equal..

http://www.fishlore.com/fishforum/general-discussion/124485-90-gallon-uneven.html

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2356218


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## Crayon

Agreed!
Trash the styrofoam, get some good shims, level the tank (use the shims at the floor, under the stand). Refill.


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## 12273

Yeah foam will eventually revert to level for the surface and cave. Especially with the weight of a tank. Metal shims can be made at any metal shop for cheap  


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## Rappyfly

Just my two cents.

Even at full weight, the tank cannot complete compress high density foam (0.5 inch on mine) with large contact surface, unless the foam is very soft or/and stand is way off level.

If stand and tank are level when dry, the full weight could sag the floor, compress any gap between the jack and floor.

I use this to level stand at four corners. http://www.homedepot.ca/product/12-inch-x-8-inch-t-strap/952117


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## Crayon

Water is an absolutely level surface. So the tank is off level. If you know, now, that the one corner is 1/4" lower, all you need to do is raise that corner by 1/4".
Borrow a long level. One that stretches right across the entire top of the tank. Metal shim stock is not necessary to level a cabinet. Get the composite shims used for cabinetry and installing doors. They used to be at a Home Depot but not any longer. Might try Rona or crappy tire. If you can find those, get wood shims.


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## J_T

These are the composite shims. Wont compress under weight.









And they are easy to break off the excess

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## dc_addict

OK tank is back full, more updates tomorrow as I put the rock work together tonight. I also have the MaxSpect Gyro in the tank all I can say is WOW, the flow you get out of this is amazing. I will post a video of the movement it generates later, simply amazing.


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## wtac

Is there is a full sheet of plywood that the aquarium is sitting on or just 2x4 edges that they styro is sitting on? 

I've never had compression issues with styro on full plywood base but have seen compression issues with just styro on metal/wood framing.


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## dc_addict

I have a few layers here. The stand has a 1/2 Plywood Sheet, with a 5/8 plywood sheet on top of that, topped off with the Stryrofoam. 

It was done this way as the stand was already built and I noticed when I put the tank on top that the 1/2 Plywood was 1" short all the way around. I put the larger sheet on top as I wasnt comfortable with the tank hanging over the sides of the plywood. 

The issue ended up being the level from back to front, which I was unable to determine with the canopy on or water in it as the back piece of glass sits slightly higher than the front and was making the tank appear level when really it was not.. Putting the level inside the tank on the bottom glass was how I was able to resolve the issue.


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## 50seven

Glad you got it resolved. I was going to suggest that maybe the large size of the return pump was causing an increased gravitational pull on that side of the tank... 

Doors are clear coated with one coat... I should post photos so you can drool... Should get to spraying the second coat on Monday or Tuesday. Install Thursday or Friday if that works... I'll confirm via text.

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## J_T

Its fun telling people what their projects look like on forums isn't it 


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## WiseGuyPhil

Wow looks great! Tagging along!


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## dc_addict

So we decided to setup the rock work outside of the tank as it would be easier to build the structures and then place it into the tank. Here is the rock work setup on the floor beside the tank.










Unfortunately trying to put the rock work in the tank the same way was not possible, It was also very hard to do this from the sculpture as we didnt have all of our rock work as some had anemone's and coral on it. After much cursing and swearing we started from scratch and ended up with this as the rock work.

I only have one light jerry rigged to provide light to the few coral and anemone's in the tank, I am waiting on a replacement part to get the rest of the lights in place and to move the rest of the coral over. I plan on getting this all done this weekend, so more pictures will follow.



















Really bad photography on this pic. Sorry...


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## dc_addict

Well I skipped the rest of the steps and here are some completed pictures of the tank. Got all of the cabinet work finalized this past weekend and it looks amazing. Still have some finishing touches to do, but overall the setup is done. Now I need a TON of coral so it isnt so bare.









































































These two pictures I took with my Sony Xperia Z3 Compact, these were taken underwater without a case. Not bad for a cell phone in a salt water tank!


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## dc_addict

Photos are a bit washed out so I will take them again soon with a DSLR during the daytime as it is hard to take pictures of the tank I find. 

Some things to note in the tank. I am using the MaxSpec Gyro and an MP40 to circulate the water the MaxSpec is simply amazing! at 60% power it sends small waves all the way to the other side of the tank and the flow can be seen throughout the water column. I am also using a Sea Swirl on my return line which I like so far. Lights are the AI Hydra 52's. I purchased 3 upgrade kits for my AI SOL Blue's and Purchased one new Hydra 52 as I needed more light after the upgrade. Overall a great product and very happy with the spectrum of light, but I had some serious issues with the AI Director communicating with the lights. AI was great with support and worked through this with me, but it was very frustrating as the lights would randomly not turn on. As I travel a fair bit for work sometimes the lights ended up being of for a day or two even though when I logged into the controller it would say they were on! 

Now just need to stock up on coral and some more fish and it hopefully wont look so bare!


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## NVES

dc_addict's system is FOR SALE!!
Repeat for sale!!!

My name is Aaron and I have been maintaining this system for the past year and now unfortunately the time has come and the owner has enlisted me to handle the sale.

I will post a few pics and have more available along with a few videos, please contact me via PM or email at [email protected]. Let me know if you have any questions or are interested in arranging a viewing.

*System Details:*
270 Gallon Aquarium from Daniel @ Aquatic Kingdom in August 2014. Rated as 9/10 with a couple of minor scratches.
- Dimensions 72"x30"X29" with (3) 1.5" overflows
- Starfire glass and eurobraced

Custom stand and canopy rated as 9/10 with some minor wear and tear.

100 Gallon sump from Daniel @ Aquatic Kingdom (August 2014).
- Overall dimensions 58.5" x 24" x 20" - holds 120 g 
- Skimmer section 16" x 24" x 20" 
- Filter Sock section 17" x 24" x 20" - socks sit at 13" 
- Return/Live Rock section 22" x 24" x 20" 
- Comes with (12) 7" filter socks 
- Custom made 2x4 stand included

Hammerhead Hybrid return pump (will confirm model #)

SWC Skimmer rated for 350 gallons

(2) AI Hydra 52 HD white - working
(2) AI Hyrda 52 HD white - non-working - were hit with some splash back not sure if they are repairable or not, but included with the overall deal.

Eheim Jager 300W submersible heater
Eheim Jager 250W submersible heater

(2) Vortech MP40W

ATO top up system

100 gallon storage container used only for RO/DI water
100 gallon storage container used to mix and store saltwater

Two Little Fish Phosban reactor with Maxi-jet 1200

All plumbing parts included and some miscellaneous items

*Livestock details:*
Blonde Naso Tang
Sailfin Tang
Yellow Tang
Copperbanded Butterfly
Medium yellow eye kole tang
2 Clown fish
File Fish
Cleaner shrimp
Blood shrimp
2 wrasses (unknown)
Large engineer goby
2 Lg eel gobies
2 Pajama cardinals
Bengaii cardinal
3 Yellow tail damsels

*Coral & Rock Details:*
Estimated 150 lbs of live rock 
Estimated 100 lbs of sand

RBTA with rock (2-3)
Green carpet anemone with white crab
Green bubble coral
Massive green nepthia tree attached to rock
Lg leather coral attached to rock
Lg finger leather coral with rock
#1 Lg mushroom colony with rock
#2 Lg mushroom colony with rock
#3 Lg mushroom colony with rock
Lg zoa colony with rock

Located in south-end Keswick, buyer is to arrange transportation of tank and stand. I will assist with the move, but not responsible for lifting the tank / stand.

*System asking price is $8,250* Please contact me to arrange viewing or if you have any questions.

Thanks,
Aaron
[email protected]

PS. I cannot post pictures or videos, please contact me for pics, videos, or questions.


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