# Quick plumbing question



## Flexin5 (Nov 12, 2011)

Quick question, if I were to use a smaller diameter pipe for the return plumbing, would that give me more pressure over a larger diameter pipe? Or would I get more water but less pressure moving through a larger diameter pipe? 

Basically I'm trying to figure out if a 1" diameter return is big enough....


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## fesso clown (Nov 15, 2011)

The amount of water will always be the same coming from the pump. Smaller pipe will yeild higher pressure but i think You'll want to reduce to a 3/4 return actually. I doubt there's enough water coming from your pump to fill an inch.


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## Flexin5 (Nov 12, 2011)

Ah I see, it's a 1" outer diameter pipe, but to the loc line it steps down to 3/4ths. I thought that it might be too small. Thanks for the help!


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## noy (Nov 19, 2012)

Flexin5 said:


> Ah I see, it's a 1" outer diameter pipe, but to the loc line it steps down to 3/4ths. I thought that it might be too small. Thanks for the help!


If you want to use loc-line attachments you will have to step it down to 3/4" anyways (or 1/2) - don't think they come in larger sizes. I wouldn't worry about getting pressure from the returns - your flow should come from your powerheads anyways.


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## Flexin5 (Nov 12, 2011)

another quick question i'll just ask here, 

if there's just a pin hole leak coming out of a joint, not squirting just little drips, do i have to re-make the entire connection or can i just add some PVC cement and that will be enough? right now it's just RO/DI water no salt.


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## Crayon (Apr 13, 2014)

Here are my 2 options:
Silicone plumbers tape. Amazing stuff, seals any leak, self sticking, works like a charm. (Not to be confused with Teflon thread sealing tape) the stuff I mean is black.
Option 2: take a straight coupler, split it, so you can get it around the tube, and then cement that on. But there can't be any squeeze out from your original joint, as you want to get the new coupling nice and tight to the coupling that's leaking. The trick w this method will be trying to get the cement into the new joint.

Or, remake the joint.


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## PaulF757 (Dec 9, 2013)

I had one such leak when i did my plumbing and all i did is shut off the pump, let all the water drain to ensure the joint was dry and got some of the cement and just put some on the area that had the leak. It melted the pipe and sealed up the joint, no issues and its been over 6 months.



Flexin5 said:


> another quick question i'll just ask here,
> 
> if there's just a pin hole leak coming out of a joint, not squirting just little drips, do i have to re-make the entire connection or can i just add some PVC cement and that will be enough? right now it's just RO/DI water no salt.


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## Flexin5 (Nov 12, 2011)

ah perfect good to know. the pump has been off all night so it'll be nice and dry to slab on some cement, couldn't find any silicone tape at canadian tire tho.


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## tom g (Jul 8, 2009)

*hey*

What was the fix man.....your new tank looks great by the way


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## Flexin5 (Nov 12, 2011)

thanks buddy, i had two pin hole leaks, just drips, for one some more pvc cement did the trick and the other was the bulkhead for the drain, that needed some silicone. i don't think i've ever had a bulkhead that never leaked. 

i also learned that once the water has salt that the salt creep will get into any little holes and plug it up.


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## fury165 (Aug 21, 2010)

which side did you put the gasket on? Remember, gasket always goes on the flange side NOT the nut side. Regardless of which way the flange is, inside or outside the tank. Silicone on the bulkhead is also a bad idea as it can cause the gasket to deform and leak.


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## Flexin5 (Nov 12, 2011)

no silicone on the actual gasket, and the gasket is on the wet side, (not the nut) but for extra measure i put a bead around the gasket, but not on it. it always leaks from the inside of the threaded part where the PVC meets. i think that they make them too big, for example my 1.5" slip fit bulkhead doesn't fit around 1.5" pvc as tight as say a coupling or joint. but some silicone around the base of the threads-pvc does the trick.


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