# Sump build



## jxu (Jul 27, 2011)

I am thinking of building a sump for my 90G tank, thinking of using a ~29 gallon tank for it but I am not sure about a few things and was wondering if any one here can share some knowledge. How far apart should the baffles be? What kind of silicone to use? I got a kinda ruined 90G tank sitting around, scratches and stains that can't be removed, so I was thinking of tearing it apart and cutting the glass panels of that to be the baffles. How high of a gap should the baffles be from the bottum of the tank? I got a 3/4" drain and return pipe drilled for the 90G and the pump is going to be a 900GPH pump for the return. I am also currently using a marineland reef capable LED, and I might just use that for the refguim lighting for the algaes. 

I was also given another wet/dry which I am not sure how it works as the skimmer the previous owner used is attached to the return and it seems to be all powered by an external pump of some kind that I don't have. Maybe I can just close off the valve at the end, and just stick my pump and skimmer into? Just worried as it might be kinda tight, my skimmer is the aqua media turboflotor multi sl 1000, with another pump that is going to be around 6" x 4" which might fit but its going to be very tight. This way I will be using bioballs and a foam pad for filtration.


Thanks for all the help!


----------



## SKurj (Oct 26, 2011)

not much I can help with but do not buy silicone for bathrooms with a midew resistant in it. I am told GE I silicone is the stuff to use.


----------



## J_T (Mar 25, 2011)

SKurj said:


> not much I can help with but do not buy silicone for bathrooms with a midew resistant in it. I am told GE I silicone is the stuff to use.


While people will say that it is safe, they have changed the label to state "not for aquarium use"

I recomend finding one that says it is safe for aquariums. Big Als, 10$ tops.

Distance between baffles. Depends on how fast you are trying to move the water. And what you have space for. I have mine at 1" (used PVC tube as a spacer) The slower the water moves through the baffles, the better you can get the micro bubbles out of the water before it gets back to the display tank.


----------



## altcharacter (Jan 10, 2011)

It's still aquarium safe, they just don't want the liability problems with such amounts of water.

The silicone at BA's is $13 per tube plus tax


----------



## J_T (Mar 25, 2011)

altcharacter said:


> It's still aquarium safe, they just don't want the liability problems with such amounts of water.
> 
> The silicone at BA's is $13 per tube plus tax


Yes, but all formula's are tweaked for their purpose. General purpose is just that. Windows etc are designed for that task. Aquarium is made for holding glass boxes of water together.

Plastic world sells a tube of aquarium silicone (cut enough baffles, and they figure out what they are for!) it is $10 a tube.


----------



## altcharacter (Jan 10, 2011)

I'll say it again, the label on the package says 100% silicone as it did before they changed the package.

If you have 100% of a certain material, how can you "tweak" it? Last time I was in school 100% was the maximum for any type of volume or weight....although I guess with inflation this could have changed.


----------



## J_T (Mar 25, 2011)

100% silicone... Meant for general purpose stuff... 

Aquarium silicone (tweaked if you will) Designed to stop the aquarium from blowing apart. 

So, once again, in another thread... Silicone GE1 100% silicone - Tagged not safe. Is it still the same? Maybe, I don't work there.

Aquarium safe silicone - tagged for aquariums. Cost an extra $5-10. For peace of mind? 

I still buy the aquarium stuff!


----------



## altcharacter (Jan 10, 2011)

I think for my next reseal I'm going to try a test and see what happens. I'd like to know first hand if the GE silicone is still worth buying or if I should go with the aquarium safe (ha...was gonna say reef safe)

Who's up for an experiment that might go terribly wrong?


----------

