# Advice on next steps from fowler to reef



## FrankS (Dec 11, 2013)

I presently have a 65 gallon (36 x 18 x 24) tank that has been up and running as a fowler for the last 4 months. I've always had the intention of building a reef tank once I get comfortable with the fowler. Now's the time. 
I need to change some equipment and from a cost point of view want to do it a step at a time. Should I upgrade the lighting first (I have Marineland reef capable) or upgrade the powerheads (Korelia 550 and 650) first.
For the lighting I was thinking of the 27" 16000K Maxspect R420R Razor and for the new powerheads the Jebao RE-15.
Suggestions?


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## wtac (Mar 17, 2006)

IMHO, do the powerheads first..it's easy. Lighting can be tricky as you have to tinker with intensity and photoperiod to minimize problematic algae growth during the transition.

JM2C/HTH


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## noy (Nov 19, 2012)

what is your water chemistry?

You may want get a handle on that first. Although not quite as sexy - you may want to think about your filtration system and have a effective means of nitrate and PO4 export.


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## fesso clown (Nov 15, 2011)

What is your filtration? Skimmer? Sump?


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## FrankS (Dec 11, 2013)

Over the next month or so I am moving from Instant Ocean to IO Reef Crystals. My parameters aren't bad but not yet good enough so that is why I'm taking my time right now. As you would expect calcium is a bit low and alkalinity a bit high. Nitrite, Nitrate almost undetectable,no ammonia, ph around 8.0, salinity 1.025. Once I have completely changed my water, I should be fine. My skimmer is a Vertex IN100, a bit old but works well and I have a sump that holds about 11.5 gallon approx. with a refugium in the last compartment. So the actual Display Tank probably holds 55 gal. or so with the rocks.


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## noy (Nov 19, 2012)

I'm impressed that you have kept your nitrates in check - especially with a FOWLR system. Hopefully that's with a decent test kit (i.e. not API).

I would suggest starting to test phosphate (PO4) and I would recommend investing in a hanna or Milwaukee meter. High phosphates promote algae growth and inhibit SPS growth. I find the test kits often go from 0 to 0.25 - a huge gap in terms of phosphates. 

Once you have nitrates and phosphates under control I would say you are ready to roll. Don't worry too much about Ca/dKH levels unless they are crazy out of whack. You can always supplement these with dosing (2 part or kalk). 

+1 on getting the powerheads before lights. The lights can be a fairly substantial investment.

you might want to get some LPS (like a cheap frogspawn) or zoa (or even a soft coral) just to see how they do. You follow that up with some easy SPS like digitatas or some bird's nests.


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## Reef Druid (Jun 27, 2014)

I would definitely do as others have suggested; it's not sexy but I would make sure I have decent filtration equipment first and all the plumbing done. Then get your circulation with power heads and then do your lighting last as it is not necessary until you start adding your photosynthetic livestock. 

On a note about your lighting. If you were thinking of going with the Maxpect R420R, I am running them on my 90 right now, and I have no complaints. For me they were definitely worth the reasonable price point. If you use the tank stands to support them, I would probably suggest the 120 degree lenses to get more homogeneous coverage (unless you like the different light zones like I do, then just stick with the 90 deg). If you are hanging the lights I would suggest the regular 90 degree lenses as light spillage will be a major issue with the 120's if you hang them higher than a few inches from the tank-top. The lights come with both the hanging kit and stand kit. The bricks are large but they give you more than enough length on the power cords, just keep in mind you have to put the bricks somewhere.

+1 on some cheap euphyllia.

Hope that helps, cheers.


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## FrankS (Dec 11, 2013)

I have a Seachem multitest kit with Salifert for calcium. I will be migrating over to Salifert as the Seachem kit gets depleted or old. I was going to get the Hanna low range meter as I've read they work well. I haven't thought about the Milwaukee though and will investigate. My nitrate level has been non existent to really low- and has never been out of whack. Algae is not a problem. As for livestock, I presently have 3 blue green chromis, mated pair of common clowns, diamond watchman goby, and a coral beauty (have to watch this one when I bring in the corals), plus a cleaner shrimp and various snails and a strawberry conch. I don't plan on purchasing any other livestock for awhile.
I am not worrying about the Ca/dKH levels until I have changed the tank salt completely to Reef Crystals..
As for the lights, I'm following a really nice 65 gallon on Aquaticlog that has been up and running for a number of years . The fellow has the Maxspect. So being new to the hobby, I want to follow success and he has had great success with these lights. I don't plan on hanging them though and will use the stand. 
I appreciate the suggestions on how to initially stock the corals etc on the reef. I will get the powerheads to boost the flow first and wait a bit before I get the lights so how do I approach adding corals to the tank with my present lighting (Marineland reef capable-(short-term) and taking into account the depth -24"?


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