# Getting an aquarium



## NewBKaeK

Hi all.

I just moved into a new house (we own it =]) and I have been planning to get an aquarium from since before the move, since it looks so fun (even though all my friends say otherwise, I'm sure they are wrong). Now after finally unpacking everything and making some room, rearranging the room, and cleaning everything up, I can finally get one, so I'm all giddy =]

Anyways, I am pretty much a complete beginner at this, so I was hoping for some suggestions as to what I should do/get before I get started.

This is the spot where I want to put the tank. From the wall (right) to the shelf is roughly 40". I'm not quite sure about the standard sizes of aquariums, so first I want to find out how big I can actually go. Of course those frames won't be there when I set everything up.










From the maximum size of the aquarium, I need to get a stand (right?). The largest I can find, online only right now, is 36" long. Does that mean I am limited to a 36" long tank? Or can the tank hang over if it's too big (just a little).

I'm also wondering what type of filter you would recommend I should get.

As for other stuff that I need to get, this is the list I come up with:

Water conditioner
Decorations
Lighting
Substrate

Is there anything I am missing from that list? Or anything that you would suggest that I add to the list?

Thanks much.


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## Brian

Tank shouldn't hang over. Its better to buy off of a site like this or www.pricenetwork.com because the price of a tank goes for about 1$ a gallon.

You can also buy all your heaters, filters, etc. from that site for more than 50% off of retail price.

I am in a rush right now so I'll let the others help you out... expect a post from Pablo soon.


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## Pablo

Given that space I'd get either a 35 or 38 gallon tank if you want it to stay close to the wall (12" width) or you can put a 65 gallon stubby (2 feet by 3 feet) in there if you want.


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## dekstr

NewBKaeK said:


> This is the spot where I want to put the tank. From the wall (right) to the shelf is roughly 40". I'm not quite sure about the standard sizes of aquariums, so first I want to find out how big I can actually go. Of course those frames won't be there when I set everything up.


Welcome to gtaaquaria!

Here is a good link to standard sizes of aquariums:http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/aquarium_sizes.php

Generally the volume is actually less than it is rated, as they are listed in outer dimensions.

There are many different shapes of aquariums that you can choose from. My only advice is to try to avoid aquariums that are really tall. It makes it harder to clean the lower parts of the tank (without getting wet or having an aching back ) Oxygen is reduced on the lower parts of the tank because of the reduce water surface area enabling air/water exchange. Try to get a surface with a good water surface to depth ratio (i.e. avoid aquariums listed as "tall" or "high". But it's just a suggestion, tall tanks still work. I started with a 20 gallon high tank and it wasn't so bad.



NewBKaeK said:


> From the maximum size of the aquarium, I need to get a stand (right?). The largest I can find, online only right now, is 36" long. Does that mean I am limited to a 36" long tank? Or can the tank hang over if it's too big (just a little).


It's important to not underestimate the weight of water. One gallon of water is about 8.3 pounds, so it adds up very quickly. It's important to keep the entire bottom side of the aquarium supported evenly to make it stable. The last thing you want is water damage on your new home.

It's great to get it as big as your budget/space can allow, you won't regret it. It's actually easy to take care of a larger tank than a really small tank. The only downside is that bigger tank = bigger equipment = more money.

As for the overhang, that is a big no-no. The aquarium is designed to be supported along the entire bottom. All manufacturers will void any warranty if there is overhang and the aquarium cracks.



NewBKaeK said:


> I'm also wondering what type of filter you would recommend I should get.
> 
> As for other stuff that I need to get, this is the list I come up with:
> 
> Water conditioner
> Decorations
> Lighting
> Substrate
> 
> Is there anything I am missing from that list? Or anything that you would suggest that I add to the list?
> 
> Thanks much.


For filters, I would say get a filter that is rated above what it is listed to handle. The ratings on the box are for optimal conditions when the filter is running at perfect efficiency. Once waste buildups in the filter, it works a lot less effectively. With a stronger filter that is listed for bigger tanks, the filter takes longer to become clogged with waste before it requires cleaning.

There are many types of filters. I think a hang-on back filter will have the best dollar for value. It's very easy to set-up, clean and very effective filtration. I suggest the Hagen aquaclear HOB filters as they are the best filters for their price and range.

Also see this thread on filters: http://gtaaquaria.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3578

As for set-up equipment, first determine what kind of fish tank you want. I assume it's going to be for freshwater tropical fish?

If you want to add live plants, then you will have to consider improved lighting, planted substrate and possibly CO2 addition. All standard aquarium lighting kits are designed for fish-only set-ups, they will barely support any plants as they do not have produce enough light. If it is without live plants, then the standard light will be fine.

Stuff you can add to the list: 
Heater: I suggest a submerisble heater. It will help when you are doing water changes. Heaters will crack when they are left on and exposed to air (a common problem for standard heaters that hang off the top. []Submersible heaters will solve this problem. 
[]Water bucket
[]Fish net -- will help a lot with netting things out
[]Water siphon--For water changes. This will involve lugging water buckets back and forth from the sink. If the tank is small then it is fine. If you want to save the effort, consider investing in a "Python" water change system. 
[]Fish food

[]Test kits--THis is not 100% needed for a successful tank. You may need it initially when setting up to monitor the nitrogen cycle at work, or when there is something suspicious affecting the fish. But otherwise you don't really need to monitor your tank water parameters
[]Thermometers: A simple stick-on thermometer works fine. An electric thermometer is more accurate.


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## NewBKaeK

Wow. I can't believe that I forgot to put filter and heater on that list =x

Thanks for all the help guys. Now I just need to rack up enough money to buy the set-up o.o


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## Windowlicka

Don't forget to add the following to your list of 'must haves':

Powerstrip - lots of electronics, typically only two power sockets to plug into - PS: I hope there's a power socket hiding somewhere behind those picture frames??

Tank Hood/Coverglass - prevents "escapees", and cover glasses will limit the amount of water lost to evaporation (you may have covered this base though in mentioning lighting - your lighting may well come inside the hood)

Algae Scrapers - unless you're investing in a UV steriliser, or restricting use of lighting, then a form of algae scraper is likely a must to keep the front/side glass clean... 

Comfy chair and beverage of choice - sit back and relax!


As for tank-size? Nobody's going to disagree here - bigger is always better...

Best of luck!


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## Chris S

Tank wise, I would suggest a 65g tank, 36x18x24 - would fit nicely in there =)

With the same footprint, you could also get a 40g tank.


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## Pablo

The old spiderman theme song is so bad ass...

DA DA DA DAAAAA DAAAA DAAAAA bom ba bom ba bom- bom ba bom bom...


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## NewBKaeK

Pablo said:


> The old spiderman theme song is so bad ass...
> 
> DA DA DA DAAAAA DAAAA DAAAAA bom ba bom ba bom- bom ba bom bom...


..........Huh?


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## Ciddian

yea i missed that too... O_O lol

GRats on the house! and welcome!


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## Pablo

NewBKaeK said:


> ..........Huh?


You know, at the begining, the music goes like bom bom bom BAAA Ba BAAA whith the spiderman logo flashing at you closer and further and then the sort of swingy beat kicks in like bom bana bom bom- ba, ba bom bom "Spider man, spider man, radioactive spider man"

Somewhat of a threadcrapp...

Hows your new aquarium there OP?


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## Fishfinder

Welcome! 
Algea scrapper wise, the mag-floats are the best i have used so far, the little foam things on a plastic stick are not so good.
And also a timer is very useful for your lights, and almost a must have if you are going to have live plants.


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## Tabatha

Actually, the BEST algae scraper I've tried is some polyester pillow stuffing I got from Cid with some snails, does a way better job than the mag!


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## Chris S

Best thing ever is an old credit card for cleaning your glass.


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## Ciddian

yes! and prevents spending....  lol


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## Pablo

Actually the Kent Algae scraper that's made out of a really maleable hard plastic is the best.


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## dekstr

Some great algae scrapers are credit cards, hard plastics. If you are careful, the most effective algae scraper I have tried are carpet razors (but don't try it on acrylic as it will scratch it).


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## NewBKaeK

Hey guys. I think I'll just use some old membership card from a PC arcade xD until it stops working, then I'll just make a magnetic one.

I'm planning to go and buy my set-up on wednesday (after I'm done my exam)! =] Getting really excited haha.


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## KhuliLoachFan

*Suggestions.*

#1. Read first, buy later. (Fish, equipment, everything.)

#2. Fishless cycling. Listen to pablo.

#3. IMHO, You can't just run one tank without a second tank. This tank can be initially empty, but later on you'll need it on hand, you'll be glad you have it. Get it now, use it later. You will either set it up as a fry tank (keeps baby fishies from getting eaten), a hospital tank (if one of your fishies gets ich), a quarantine tank (when you buy new fish), or as an emergency holding tank where you can put your fishies if you have to tear down and clean your big tank.

Warren


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## NewBKaeK

KhuliLoachFan said:


> #1. Read first, buy later. (Fish, equipment, everything.)
> 
> #2. Fishless cycling. Listen to pablo.
> 
> #3. IMHO, You can't just run one tank without a second tank. This tank can be initially empty, but later on you'll need it on hand, you'll be glad you have it. Get it now, use it later. You will either set it up as a fry tank (keeps baby fishies from getting eaten), a hospital tank (if one of your fishies gets ich), a quarantine tank (when you buy new fish), or as an emergency holding tank where you can put your fishies if you have to tear down and clean your big tank.
> 
> Warren


I've been reading for the longest time... since a loong time before I moved. =x

Yups. No fish are going in yet. More waiting to endure (joy =.=)

I want to get a second (smaller) tank, but unfortunately I have absolutely no room for it, and also the fact that my parents will "WTF" at me if I get a second tank. So for now, it's probably not gonna happen. Maybe after we (I) clear up some more space.

Thanks for the tips =]


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## Pablo

*Yups. No fish are going in yet. More waiting to endure (joy =.=)*

You can get fish the day you set your tank up once you get rid of all the nitrogen bubbles and the temperature is right. You just need to get some cycled filter media from someone to jump start the tank.


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## KhuliLoachFan

*jumpstarting biofiltration...*

That's the one thing I wish I had done and didn't do. Lesson learned. 

W


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## Chris S

Pablo said:


> *Yups. No fish are going in yet. More waiting to endure (joy =.=)*
> 
> You can get fish the day you set your tank up once you get rid of all the nitrogen bubbles and the temperature is right. You just need to get some cycled filter media from someone to jump start the tank.


Or setup a planted tank =)


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## NewBKaeK

Pablo said:


> You can get fish the day you set your tank up once you get rid of all the nitrogen bubbles and the temperature is right. You just need to get some cycled filter media from someone to jump start the tank.


Don't know anybody with cycled filter media =x I'm gonna cook some up =]



KhuliLoachFan said:


> That's the one thing I wish I had done and didn't do. Lesson learned.
> W


Haha, I have a bad(?) habit of reading/researching as much as I can before I start a project/hobby or even just buy a whatever. And the process takes about a day to a month.

Anyways I'm pretty happy right now. I bought most of my stuff. I think I got suckered into some extra(absolutely useless) stuff but whatever. I have my stand built. And the tank is sitting in the basement full of water for another 24(?) hours.


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## Pablo

NewBKaeK said:


> Don't know anybody with cycled filter media =x I'm gonna cook some up =]
> 
> Haha, I have a bad(?) habit of reading/researching as much as I can before I start a project/hobby or even just buy a whatever. And the process takes about a day to a month.
> 
> Anyways I'm pretty happy right now. I bought most of my stuff. I think I got suckered into some extra(absolutely useless) stuff but whatever. I have my stand built. And the tank is sitting in the basement full of water for another 24(?) hours.


How do you mean cook some up...?

That's impossible... You're joking right?

As a lesser option they make BIO SPIRA which is a somewhat expensive biofilter in a package, but you know all of us, and I'm SURE someone here has a sponge they can give you or something...


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## KnaveTO

Can't get Bio Spira in Canada as it is a biological agent and therefore banned from importing. If they would open a manufacturing plant in Canada then we could get it... but our market is too small to make such worth while.


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## Pablo

I know like six people who've used it. You just need to use the proper channels. Something called thelighthouse.com or something like that used to sell it over the net... also the new formula doesnt have to be refrigerated which makes shipping easier.


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## NewBKaeK

By "cook" I meant just cycle my tank without a kick start, I really don't mind taking the long way. I didn't mean I would light up the stove 0.o

Apparently they discontinued Bio-Spira. I read it on some other forum a while back. They also took the product off their website. I was planning to order it when I got my aquarium, but it was too late =[

http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=149172 << thats where I read about it.


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## dekstr

I think it was because BioSpira didn't sell well.

This is the only product that can instantly "cycle" a tank, but too bad they stopped selling.

Probably because it was too obscure for most people to know what it did--after all, if you had time to learn about nitrogen cycle and biospira, you would rather cycle your tank w/o having to pay lots of $$$ for BioSpira.


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## NewBKaeK

Unless you are in some kind of huge rush to get your tank set up and running. =x

Anyways, I got a piece of what used to be raw shrimp (now cooked, mmm aquarium shrimp) hanging in my tank for about a day now. The water is all cloudy so I think it's heading on the right track. Although all my readings are still 0.

Question1: My pH is reading at 7.8 should I try and lower it or is this an acceptable level?
Question2: What temperature should I set my tank to be? I have it at 85F right now. Is that too high?
Question3: Is a piece of shrimp, due to rot soon, a big enough source of ammonia to get the cycle started? 
Question4: Should I try and find some pure ammonia to kick things into action and ditch the shrimp?


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## Pablo

Using something rotting in a virgin aquarium is begging for something bad to happen. Wherever you got that advice- its bad.

You're much better off with clean good old pure ammonia- or beter yet- seed the tank. I've done this the past 5 times and would never do it another way again.

Remember, there's something called biological exclusion. A fully established old tank has a lot of stuff for the bacteria which would eat a rotting shrimp to compete with to try to gain a foothold- in a virgin tank, it's free to run rampant without competition and establish itself nicely.

Its just bad.


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