# dirt tanks



## pyrrolin (Jan 11, 2012)

Those of you with dirt tanks, what all do you use for substrate?

dirt obviously but what type
clay?
sand or gravel?
others

thickness of layers

pros and cons

what worked what didnt


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## Mlevi (Jan 28, 2012)

I just started my first dirt tank about a month ago. I used miracle gro organic soil, with some red terra cotta clay (Fe) below it, capped by gravel. I think there's a pic of the exact bag, as well as the clay on fishyfishyfishy's thread somewhere on this forum. 

Its working nicely so far, although the plants aren't growing as well as I would like to see (or see in the tanks of others). However, I think I screwed up on the gravel cap and put in too much. I have an inch and half of soil, covered by an inch and half of gravel. Since this is my 'test' tank, I don't mind it, as I'm learning as I go along. 

Given the choice to 're do' it, I'd make the gravel layer between 3/4ths of an inch to an inch max. If you can look up fishyfishyfishy's thread, there's a ton of firsthand knowledgeable stuff there. I've seen his dirted tank in person, and its a beaut.


Al.


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## pyrrolin (Jan 11, 2012)

Do you have high light and c02 going also?

Also remember that it can take a bit for plants to recover from being moved around. I find its at least a week myself.

also how much clay did you use?


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## Mlevi (Jan 28, 2012)

pyrrolin said:


> Do you have high light and c02 going also?
> 
> Also remember that it can take a bit for plants to recover from being moved around. I find its at least a week myself.
> 
> also how much clay did you use?


I have 2 15W 6500K CFL bulbs and 1 25W (24") T5HO 6700K on the tank now. Not dosing anything at the moment. I'm toying with the idea of setting up CO2.

Yes, the first week some of them melted (except for the crypts), but now all of them are growing somewhat. With clay, i was told to add very little, so about ten to twelve 'half a marble' size dabs on a 36" x 12" footprint. I stuck them on the glass before adding the soil. Some people add zeolite instead, but i didn't have any handy, and i didn't know anyone who had firsthand experience with it. Was afraid it would cause a nutritional imbalance. Plus if you're going to end up dosing, it adds up a layer of uncertainty, from what I read.

Al.


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## Ischemia (Dec 19, 2012)

I used







capped with play sand. I bought both soil and sand at home depot for about $16. Be sure to sift the soil to remove all the wood bits and other large debris. I pulled out about 1kg of debris from mine.

I used the entire bag of soil in the tank and half the bag of sand.

I also have the home depot 48' shop light which runs 2 32w 6500k bulbs and provides a medium/low light level to my 55g. My tank has been planted for only a week but I have seen lots of nice growth and no major catastrophes yet. No co2 yet for me


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## xriddler (Feb 16, 2012)

for clay i added like 3-4 pounds in my tank. Read on dustinsfishtank thats about the right amount to add. Only thing i didnt add was peat moss and laterite clay. some of my plants are floating back up but ive seen them float up with new roots and stronger looking ones too. alot of my small nana val stocks melted still waiting to see if they grow back. my water is pretty tanned though. Anyone else have the same discolouration? the colour is like chinese tea after the third time adding hot water to it. 

Anyone have blyxa is their dirt tank? two or three of mine are two different colours. I dont know if its healthy or melting. Its abit pinkish and green and the same time.


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## BillD (Jun 5, 2006)

I used poor topsoil. taken from a few inches below the surface in the yard. This closer to the mineralized topsoil recommended on the planted tank sites. I have about an inch or a little more of the soil, mixed about 50/50 with gravel, topped with another inch or a little more of the same 1/8" gravel. The tank has been set up for several years (maybe 5 or more) and the plants are still growing. I would avoid top soils with high organic content as they will add to the bioload of the tank while those organics break down.


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## altum (Apr 24, 2012)

I do mostly _Crypts_ in pots. The substrate combo I use is as follows:

*For plants requiring Soft , Acid water*

*Substrate* 
5 loam:3 peat:1cow manure:1 sheep manure:1ounce iron filings:Terra Cotta red
clay

*Top Dressing* 
ADA Amazonia, fine gravel or Rona washed sand (Home Depot sand is filthy)

*Water* Rain + RO	(NEVER DISTILLED WATER!!!!)

*For plants requiring Hard, Limestone Based water*

*Substrate*
5 loam:1 cow:1 sheep:1 castings:1 powdered limestone:1ounce iron filing

*Top Dressing* fine gravel or Rona washed sand (Home Depot sand is filthy)

*Water * tap water pH 7-8 ppm150-250

*For plants that don't care*

cut down to 1 peat moss and 1/2 limestone.
Adding 1 part worm castings to each formula is also an excellent addition

If you are going to a strictly dirt tank WITHOUT fish, you can use washed Amazonia or gravel.
If you are going to a strictly dirt tank WITH fish, use Rona sand (gravel destroys Cory whiskers.)

I prefer using about 2 - 3 inches of sand over the soil mixture. It seems to force the roots to grow very thick, very fast. Then, when the roots reach the soil mix, the plants seem to grow much more quickly and much stronger.

Now, for the chemists out there that are thinking that I am a silly buffoon for using an unusable form of iron (filings) in my formula for plant substrate, a word. It is true that plants can not use FERRIC OXIDE to obtain the iron they need for growth. *HOWEVER* FERRIC OXIDE in the presence of anaerobic bacteria reduces FERRIC OXIDE to FERROUS OXIDE, which is a form that the plant can use in the uptake of iron.

I know that this sounds like a pain in the butt, but it is well worth it.
Jim


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