# shop light?



## pyrrolin (Jan 11, 2012)

If I were to buy a cheap shop double t8 shop light to hang above my aquarium and bought daylight 6500 k bulbs, would it be safe and good lighting for a fish only tank?

what is the difference with "aquarium" bulbs and fixtures? Im doing a 75 gallon cichlid tank soon and would like to just hang a shop light above to light it.


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## bob123 (Dec 31, 2009)

I have six tanks fish only and the shop light you mentioned is all I use.


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## Mlevi (Jan 28, 2012)

If you are lighting a 'fish only' tank, then you have a choice of color temperature. Its more of a 'which light displays my tank best' scenario. Maybe someone can correct me, but I don't think most (all?) fish have a specific spectrum requirement.

The lower the number, the more 'warmer' it appears (red/yellow). The higher the number, the more 'colder' (white/blue) it appears. If you have a 48" shoplight setup, and a FW fish only tank, I wouldn't even bother looking at aquarium specialized bulbs. A pair of 6500K tubes in that size will set you back $10.98 at HD. A pair of 'Natural' 5000K is $6.98 

Phillips classifies their fluorescent tubes (not aquarium specific) as follows:

soft white - 3000K
neutral - 3500K
cool white - 4100K
natural - 5000K
daylight - 6500K

Al.


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## cliff (Aug 30, 2010)

Another difference is that aquarium fixtures should be rated for use in damp locations, the cheap shop lights are unlikely to be.


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## riggles17 (Jan 4, 2011)

Only use shop lights and I love em. If its not bright enough buy another one aha


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## pyrrolin (Jan 11, 2012)

I want 6500 k, because I like that look and I may want to put some low light plants in while the fish allow, I know they will tear them up eventually.

I just wanted to make sure that I am able to get normal bulbs that are 6500 k, daylight to put in the shop light. I can't stand it when colour is way off.

I do understand that I can't safely put them on the tank, but suspended above 6 inches or more should be safe.

I just want the tank to have a natural colour.


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## SmokeSR (Jan 28, 2009)

Shop lights work well. You could try anubias - mine grow great with low light and most fish leave it alone. If your fish won't leave them alone, you could grow the leaves above water - they will actually grow faster that way.


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## BillD (Jun 5, 2006)

Keep in mind that colour temp is only part of the equation of how lights will make a tank look. CRI, Colour Rendition Index, is a major factor. This indicates how accurately a light will render colour. The closer to 100 the better it will render colour. Some tubes, both 5000K and 6500K could have CRIs in the low 80s or mid 90s. The Philips Ultra Daylight is actually pretty good in that regard, but my preference is for a 5000K Natural Sunshine which HD doesn't seem to carry anymore. the present 5000K tbe is only a CRI of 82, but they still look good over a tank. You could also use one of each.


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## aznphil (Jul 20, 2011)

Home Depot now a days have double and quad T5 HO fixtures, designed for plants and aquariums. How are those different than the marked up coralife and nova extremes?

I'm referring to T5 HO only, I understand there is a difference between HO and non HO.

these: http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...d=-1&keyword=t5+ho&storeId=10051#.UMuE_6yrOHQ


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## df001 (Nov 13, 2007)

For one, CSA and or UL testing standards, likely the plant fixture hasnt been tested for use with aquariums, ie safety hazards, two, quality of transformers, but ultimately there is likely no difference, hundreds of people use shop lights just fine.


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## aznphil (Jul 20, 2011)

cool thanks, i suppose there is the ever important aesthetics aspect of it.


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## pyrrolin (Jan 11, 2012)

I picked up a shop light at homedepot for $17 and a pair of philips daylight deluxe 32 watt 48 inch bulbs, t8 6500k, color rendering index is 82, light output 2750 lumens

Now, what is the difference between these cheap bulbs, got 2 pack for 11 bucks and the "aquarium" bulbs we buy at a LFS? I don't have it all set up yet, but I did put the bulbs in and placed it over the tank for a sec to double check the look and all was good, I need more chain to suspend it safely above the water.

Are these cheap bulbs which looks the same the same as the ones we pay $20 bucks each for? Could I grow plants the same? Curious for the future and short term. I will be using the light for a cichlid tank and will try to put some plants in while the fish are small but I know the fish will tear them up at some point. And I would like to know for future setups where I may want plants to do well


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## DaFishMan (Dec 19, 2006)

The overpriced lfs tubes are 6700k. That is preferred for plants but 3 to 4x the price of the Philips daylight. 6500k is fine for my 25g tank its just mosses, crypts and Java fern lace. Grabbed 2 at Lowes. For my 75g tank its 6700 and 10000k. Won't find those in lfs or hardware store unfortunately. Paid an arm and a leg


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## pat3612 (Jan 29, 2008)

Go to Princess auto pick up their T5 shop lights enough to grow med plants and low light , moss love them. Also if you ever change to high light or salt you can just change out the bulbs.They come with bulbs. I paid $69.00 for mine with tax for my 48 in 4 bulb set. They seemed a little flimsy but mine have worked 2 years no problem. If they do not have them they will order them no charge.They also come in 24 in.


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## LTPGuy (Aug 8, 2012)

*Cri*

Bill D said it all. CRI = Colour Rendering Index... is what you're looking for.

Colour temperature effectively give you the mood of the tank. Depending on your setup, you might want a warm, cool, or daylight (noon Sun) look.

Shop light is all that I have ever used in my fresh water planted setup.

Currently using 6500K bulb from GE. CRI is 80.


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## BillD (Jun 5, 2006)

I have to disagree with one thing said here. The colour temp of 6700 being preferred for plants. Plants will grow under a wide variety of lights, and personally, I have had better plant growth under 5000K tubes than 6500. What bears mentioning here is that CRI can vary widely in tubes of the same color temp, especially between different manufacturers, but also within a brand. As an example, Philips makes several 5000K tubes with CRIs that vary from around 82 to around 94 or 96. I have some Philips ultravision, 5000K, CRI 82, that grow plants very well. I also have a 5000K Natural Sunshine from Philips that has a CRI of around 90 or 92. This was the 5000K tube sold by HD in the past. The tube now being sold is the Ultravision. Personally, I don't like the look of my plants under the 6500K T12s I have as the green colour looks off, but they still grow plants. The plants under the Ultravisions look better even with the low CRI.
Keep in mind that colour temps are an approximation of what a given colour of light looks like. Sunlight at noon at the equator is supposed to have a colour temp of around 5500K.
So to answer the original question, the cheap bulbs can be every bit as good as the specialty tubes sold at the LFS, even if they don't match the parameters exactly. As well, major manufacturers make a wide variety of tubes that are less readily available, but may fill those niche needs we have as aquarists. If you look at the catalogs of the major manufacturers you will likely be surprised at the sheer number of different tubes as well as the number of very similar tubes with slight variations.


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## DaFishMan (Dec 19, 2006)

What I meant is that 6700k is my personal preference over lower k whenever possible. Not the rule for everyone by any means


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## BillD (Jun 5, 2006)

I didn't mean to single out your comment per se, but, it is often recommended to use 6500K lights as they are the "best" for plant growth, and they match sunlight which they don't. The reality is that it depends on the specific tube, and how much of the needed red and blue light of the correct spectrum that particular tube will produce. So, some of what I say may be conjecture, based on looking at the specifics of a particular tube. Lighting engineering is a specific discipline that has it's own association. There is a ton of info out there and making sense of it as it applies to growing aquatic plants can be a bit challenging. I approach the subject from the angle of finding the cheapest solution to do the job. It may not always be the best, but will be workable. Personally, I prefer the look of 5000K lights and believe I have gotten better plant growth from them. That, of course, is anecdotal and needs to be considered as such. Discussions of this type are always good.


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## DaFishMan (Dec 19, 2006)

Understood Bill and if it's one thing I remember, you grow a ton of plants.
I'll learn what I can from your CRI primer. The vals and the crypt from you doing well still  Would have typed more last night but my eyes were half shut


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## BillD (Jun 5, 2006)

Glad to see you back posting and good to hear those plants are still alive. The CRI issue is worth discussion because it is a seldom mentioned aspect of lighting that is particularly important to aquarists. From various forums, it is clear that people want to view the best aspects of their fish. The question usually is how to make the colours "pop". Perhaps it should be how to make the fish look natural. Understanding a little bit about lighting, not just colour temp, goes a long way to getting the desired results, often for less money.


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## Mlevi (Jan 28, 2012)

Help me understand this please. I always thought CRI was how the color appears to human eyes. Does it make a difference in the wavelength spectrum, in terms of the photosynthesis benefit to the tank or just the color of light we perceive in the tank? I guess I'm confused because a lot of sellers don't list the CRI value, just like most will not list the wattage lost by the ballast (My understanding is that the actual power that the unit consumes = watts lost by ballast + wattage on the bulb).

The more I learn, the more there is to learn...sigh!

Al.


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## BillD (Jun 5, 2006)

CRI is how color appears to the human eye or a camera for that matter. Sunlight has a CRI of 100 and and every colour basically, will appear a certain way under that light. How closely a tube renders colour or colours will be reflected in the CRI. The various wave lengths of light emitted from a tube combine to give a light it's CRI, as well as it's colour temp. However, the actual waveelengths of light plants prefer, may be available in different quantities in various types and brands of the same colur temp, and probably even the same CRI. We can assume to a degree that a properly temperatured light with good (high) CRI will likely have decent amounts of the correct wave lengths of light to grow plants and make the colurs of the plants and fish appear natural. Not everyone wants this, and some prefer to enhance the appearance of certain colours and don't care or even want it to be natural looking.
My personal experience over the years is that tubes of 5000K, even with relatively low CRI, of say 82, will grow plants very well, and they look a nicer green than plants under 6500K lights. I have also grown plants very successfully under a two tube mix of cool white and warm white and even incandescent lights, once upon a time. However, the 5000K lights outperform them, especially if they are a higher lumen rating (not HO or VHO). Some tubes emitted a third more lumens with the same wattage (older tubes in T12, Philips Ultralume outputted 3000+ lumens vs about 2400 in regular 5000k tubes @ 40W). 
So, this subject can be quite complicated and is, in fact, an engineering discipline with it's own society. However, you don't have to know every nuance to make it work for you, or help you choose a tube that does the job for minimal cost.


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## pyrrolin (Jan 11, 2012)

A few days ago I came home to my 90 gallon leaking and had to move everything to my 75 which happens to have the shop light over it. The 90 had 2 48 inch t5ho lights so good lighting.

Now all the same plants are under the shop light with the cheap standard 6500 k t8 light bulbs.

It will be interesting to see how my plants do under this light, I guess I would consider two t8 on a 75 long med to high lighting. This will be a very nice test for this cheap lighting.


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## Mlevi (Jan 28, 2012)

BillD said:


> CRI is how color appears to the human eye or a camera for that matter..


Bill, thanks for making it more clear for me. Appreciate it!

Thanks,

@ pyrrolin: Keep us posted. It would be great to get firsthand results on the difference in lighting.

Al.


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## pyrrolin (Jan 11, 2012)

Well, I guess it has been long enough to give a report on the shop light I got.

A couple days before christmas my 90 gallon started to leak so I moved everything, fish, plants, driftwood, filter, and DIY c02 all over to the 75 gallon I was planning to put some SA cichlids in that I had hung the shop light over. The light is either http://www.homedepot.ca/product/2-lamp-hanging-fluorescent-white-shoplight/818455 or http://www.homedepot.ca/product/whtie-shop-light-4-feet/944526

The bulbs are phillips T8 32 watt 6500 kk, got a 2 pack for about 10 bucks or so

It has been about 3 weeks now and my plants are doing just fine it seems. Plants are mostly Vals, but I also have an amazon sword and java fern and one type of crypt I think it is.

The tank looks good, no problem with the look of the lighting.

In summary, if you need a 4 foot light and don't have any high light requirements, this type of setup seems to do the job well enough. I am positive that it will work perfectly for my intended purpose of just providing light for a SA cichlid tank which I hope to have some plants in for a while until the fish get bigger and pull them all out.


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## Mlevi (Jan 28, 2012)

Just on a related note, Rona has a two tube 48" T8 shoplight fixture for sale this week, for $15.98 

http://www.rona.ca/en/shoplight-fluorescent-fixture?select_store=55100

Al.


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## BillD (Jun 5, 2006)

There are many fixtures available for under $20, similar to the one above. 10 packs of tubes (5000K or 6500K) are $30. Hard to beat for value.


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## Mlevi (Jan 28, 2012)

BillD said:


> There are many fixtures available for under $20, similar to the one above. 10 packs of tubes (5000K or 6500K) are $30. Hard to beat for value.


Yep, If I could go back, I'd make sure my tank has a 48" or more footprint instead of a 36" like it is no. Huge savings on a 48" footprint.

Al


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