# Guppy going kamikazee and dies....



## Squareheads (Oct 15, 2009)

okay, so today was the day that i would do my weekly water change

and wouldn't you know it my tank was dirty... it's water looked all green(not completely, and slightly over exaggerated)
and what not.... and when i observed all the fishes, good lord there was
alot of problems that I haven't seen over the last night.

It appears that one of my guppies most likely developed fin rot due to the
tank parameters being so poor. 

But what really caught my attention, was one of my female endler guppy, going all kamikazee, like having a heart attack, or like a seizure attack 
swimming up rigorously then stiffens like a stick and falls to the bottom, and
does the same thing again, until finally it gives in...

im not sure whether that is a disease or not, but my other guppies 
looked fine except for the one with fin rot and the endler. It may have been
the water parameters but im surprised because i thought guppies are usually hardy.

my water parameters are okay now, I use test strips for every other
parameter except for ammonia, which I took before
changing the water, and it was 0.25. ( I plan to buy API master kit)

I have a bad history of taking care of fish, many noob mistakes but I learn
from it.

So if anyone can help me and give me advice. that'd be great


----------



## ameekplec. (May 1, 2008)

The fish was probably dying an agonizing death from ammonia burn. 

Do more frequent water changes (once every two weeks is fine even), and feed less so that your water doesn't get so dirty so fast with spoiled food.

More frequent water changes + less feeding = cleaner water, happier fish


----------



## Squareheads (Oct 15, 2009)

hmmm i do plan on doing my water change every 4 days because
my setup is really a hefty one.

20 gal
1 bushynose pleco
4 assorted guppies
3 endler guppy( I plan to probably give back)
2 Zebra Loach
and 4 new white skirt tetra and 1 neon gourami and another gourami, its name slipped my mind.

All from Big Al's! LOL.

I feel sorry for all the fishes that died in my hands >< it was a lot reeaally.. that i lost count....

You think its best if I buy more low lighting plants for oxygenation, and 
keep medications on the ready?


----------



## bluekrissyspikes (Apr 16, 2009)

is the tank not cycled? or did you do something to cause it to have to cycle again? ammonia should be 0. you need to get it down to none if possible. i'm surprised your clown loaches are still alive, they are fairly sensitive. adding a bunch of live plants should help but you still need to do frequent water changes


----------



## Chris S (Dec 19, 2007)

That is way too much fish for a 20g tank. One Clown loach alone is too much for a 20g tank.

What kind of filter is running on that thing?


----------



## AquaNeko (Jul 26, 2009)

Squareheads said:


> hmmm i do plan on doing my water change every 4 days because
> my setup is really a hefty one.
> 
> 20 gal
> ...


Please list all the equipment and plants, filter, decor, gravel,etc you have in the 20gal tank.

Along with the above info please list your water test strip results as well.

Chris,

I've heard somewhere before that if it's a temp grow setup then the loaches can stay till the user upgrades as I've heard those loaches grow slow.


----------



## redclove (Feb 26, 2008)

too many fish


----------



## Zebrapl3co (Mar 29, 2006)

Not really too many fish, tetras don't really count. So still within the limits if there is a filter running. Clown loach will need to be in a bigger tank in 1 year at the most and they do better in a schoal of 6 or more. So that is 1 mistake there.
Squareheads, maybe you should slow down first and get your tank's conditioned properly before you get any more new fish. You must be doing something really wrong to have so many fish died like that.
Are you familiar with the following?
- Cycling a tank
- Dechorinating your tap water
I am just starting at the very basics. Not sure at what level you are at ...

And don't bother with the plants. They offer next to nothing if you can't get your fert right. In fact, they compete with your fish for oxygen at night.

*Never pay again for live sex! | Hot girls doing naughty stuff for free! | Chat for free!*


----------



## pstavert (Oct 14, 2009)

As far as too many fish I heard you need 2 Gallons of water for each inch of fish.. So 5 - 2" fish takes up 20 gallons ... Is this correct..??


----------



## bluekrissyspikes (Apr 16, 2009)

pstavert said:


> As far as too many fish I heard you need 2 Gallons of water for each inch of fish.. So 5 - 2" fish takes up 20 gallons ... Is this correct..??


you can't really go by inch rules but if you do you are supposed to go by their full grown size not the size they are to start with.


----------



## Darkblade48 (Jan 28, 2008)

bluekrissyspikes said:


> you can't really go by inch rules but if you do you are supposed to go by their full grown size not the size they are to start with.


I'd just like to add another reason that "fish length" is not an appropriate measurement. This is because you should really looking at fish "mass". For example, 4 inches of Tetras (assuming each Tetra is about 1 inch) would be very different than a single 4 inch Goldfish.


----------



## pstavert (Oct 14, 2009)

Point Taken.. Thanks Guys


----------



## Squareheads (Oct 15, 2009)

well, to begin with, my tank's been cycled, im pretty sure, i started at about mid or late april of this year, more than enough time for the 
nitrogen cycle and the spiking to pass.

I'm not sure what brand of filter it is, but I do believe i may have to change 
the filtration, i dont quite think its of the best quality

and sorry but I ment to say Zebra Loaches not Clown, Zebra loaches don't 
grow as big. so thats why i bought them

and I am aware of their size capacity. i believe it depends on how you take
care of your aquarium that'll give you the limits of how many fish you can take care off. I personally think its bollocks about that rule of thumb inch rule.
When I followed that, my tank looked lifeless... but
obviously there is a limit.

I use sea chem prime to dechlorinate and neutralize all harmful chemicals

I have java ferns growing on a malaysia driftwood that gave me MTS which
then became my reason to buy zebra loaches aswell.
and I have a striving anubias fern in there as well.

about the oxygenation thing, I know for sure that the gouramis can last 
because they have their special labyrinths they can use to breathe out of
the water. and I plan to buy an air pump, all in due time.

I have kind of like a 2 stone pillar decor, a submarine decor for loaches to hide, and also a fake plant a little taller than your average dixie cup


----------



## redclove (Feb 26, 2008)

theres more to acceptable bio-loads than just keeping water quality up. Too many fish can be cramped and stressful to the fish quite easily. Its unatural.


----------



## bluekrissyspikes (Apr 16, 2009)

now that you are working on lowering the toxic levels of amonia you really should try to figure out how they came to be that way in the first place. that way you can learn from the experience and prevent it from happening again. did you change out your biofilter material maybe? is there a dead fish in there somewhere, rotting? maybe your driftwood is rotting? is it soft?
floating plants will help without stealing oxygene at night.


----------



## Mr Fishies (Sep 21, 2007)

Squareheads said:


> and I am aware of their size capacity. i believe it depends on how you take care of your aquarium that'll give you the limits of how many fish you can take care off. I personally think its bollocks about that rule of thumb inch rule.
> When I followed that, my tank looked lifeless... but
> obviously there is a limit.


It find it curiously self defeating that you asked for advice and then called it bollocks...

A tank full of so many fish that it's constantly churning with life is not natural nor a realistic and sustainable goal. If you were able to pick up a cubic yard of water (200 Gal) from even the most "fish populated" river in nature, you probably would not get any fish. On the other hand, there are 15 fish, some small, some not small, in a closed volume of water 1/10th that. You said the water was dirty, green and some fish died, some fish had fin rot...but too many fish is not the problem?

If your water turns dirty and green in 1 week between water changes, you either have too many fish or you're overfeeding or both. The dirt came from inside the tank or outside the tank.

Just my 2 cents.


----------



## Squareheads (Oct 15, 2009)

bluekrissyspikes said:


> now that you are working on lowering the toxic levels of amonia you really should try to figure out how they came to be that way in the first place. that way you can learn from the experience and prevent it from happening again. did you change out your biofilter material maybe? is there a dead fish in there somewhere, rotting? maybe your driftwood is rotting? is it soft?
> floating plants will help without stealing oxygene at night.


what will floating plants help in?
I'm not really sure what you mean...

and my water didnt completely look like garbage, i just over exaggerated...

also, Can I buy different kinds of filters media? for my filter?


----------



## Darkblade48 (Jan 28, 2008)

Squareheads said:


> what will floating plants help in?
> I'm not really sure what you mean...


Floating plants help with the balance of an aquarium, as plants do prefer to uptake ammonium directly, rather than nitrates. As a result, if you heavily plant a tank from the start, you may not even see a cycle (a so called "silent cycle").



Squareheads said:


> also, Can I buy different kinds of filters media? for my filter?





Squareheads said:


> I'm not sure what brand of filter it is


You never mentioned what kind of filter you have.


----------



## AquaNeko (Jul 26, 2009)

Squareheads said:


> what will floating plants help in?
> I'm not really sure what you mean...
> 
> and my water didnt completely look like garbage, i just over exaggerated...
> ...


Well yes plants will help to a degree. If your bioload combined with your filter is over the plants ability to natrually filter out you'll still have a build up of fish byproducts turning toxic to kill the fish. At least that is my research and understanding so far.

As someoen else mentioned you did not mention what brand and model number of filter you're using. You should normally have a filter larger then your tank size water capacity. (ie. 10gal with 20gal filter) Tho there are some exceptions if say you're keeping really low polluting fish in a larger tank. For example I've heard of someone using a 5gal filter in a 10gal tank for a single Betta. No water issues as it's only one fish and LOTS of water space for buffer.

Another option you may want to look into is upping your biofilter by having either a larger filter or another method (a little more involved mind you) is going aquaponics where you have grow bed with a lot of gravel or hydroton (inert clay pellets, no pH effect) and growing something on top or around the fish tank by pumping water up to the grow bed then the extra gravel/hydroton which is normally larger then your filter has more surface area to collect the beneficial cultures to convert ammonia to nitrates and plants grown in the grow bed filter out the nitrates returning clean water to the fish on a return tube. This can be built DIY. Most people going aquaponics either grow veggies (larger scale systems) or cooking herbs (ie. cilantro, basil) or other plants if they choose.

Just an idea you may want to explore. http://www.earthsolutions.com/assets/images/SustainableGardening/aquaponics-littleTokyo.jpg You could make something elegant and simple looking like that or jazz it up more or raise the height a bit more so you can see the fish. Not saying you have to go aquaponics here. Just omething to check out and think about.


----------



## bluekrissyspikes (Apr 16, 2009)

Squareheads said:


> what will floating plants help in?
> I'm not really sure what you mean...
> 
> and my water didnt completely look like garbage, i just over exaggerated...
> ...


it doesn't really matter how the water looked. it matters how your levels are. a toxic amount of amonia doesn't normally build up over night so something is obviously going wrong with the system. i'd like to help you figure it out but you haven't answered the questions so i can't help with that. my guess is probably lack of maintenance or lack of biofiltration. i usually take all the carbon filters out of my filter systems and replace them with squares of aquaclear sponges that i cut to just fit into the media area. that provides the most possible filtration for each filter. if your filter isn't running properly it could maybe use a cleaning. sometimes the impeller gets build up on it and doesn't spin properly on some models. weekly water changes and thourough gravel vacs are your best bet though, along with some natural plants. i have no idea what your maintenance schedule is like but it really NEEDs to be done weekly, and i'd probably do 50% because the stocking is kind of high.


----------



## Squareheads (Oct 15, 2009)

bluekrissyspikes said:


> it doesn't really matter how the water looked. it matters how your levels are. a toxic amount of amonia doesn't normally build up over night so something is obviously going wrong with the system. i'd like to help you figure it out but you haven't answered the questions so i can't help with that. my guess is probably lack of maintenance or lack of biofiltration. i usually take all the carbon filters out of my filter systems and replace them with squares of aquaclear sponges that i cut to just fit into the media area. that provides the most possible filtration for each filter. if your filter isn't running properly it could maybe use a cleaning. sometimes the impeller gets build up on it and doesn't spin properly on some models. weekly water changes and thourough gravel vacs are your best bet though, along with some natural plants. i have no idea what your maintenance schedule is like but it really NEEDs to be done weekly, and i'd probably do 50% because the stocking is kind of high.


I'm not sure if my drift wood is rotting.. cause I can't tell if it does, and I haven't really looked inside my filter... buut I doo do 50% water changes, It was every week but my plan is to change it to every 4-5 days? cause it
seems that at the 7th day of not doing water change, thats when all
the symptons of sickness appear.

Theres two things that i've done so far
1st. is that I bought API Pimafix and started applying it to my aquarium just
recently, I have no luxury or space for an aquarium hospital, and since all my guppies
are contageously getting the same sickness, it appears to be fungal or
bacterial infections(loss of colour @ spine as well as large white lumps growing, appears to be fungal), i decided to just add the medicine to the aquarium,

2nd. is that I added an air pump (API RENA AIR 50 PUMP), it wasn't my decision, my mom, bought it for
the aquarium, soo I don't really have to worry about lack of oxygen anymore
but I am concerned whether or not i keep it on 24/7 cause when i felt
the air pump after the first day, it was warm....

Also, for my filter media, I am really in a iffy situation because I heard
that your not suppose to change the media for the filter because thats where
most of the good bacteria live. So i just lightly rinse it in the aquarium water I water changed...

Also, I am not fully aware of the gender of my gouramis because my dwarf neon gourami was the last in it's tank at the LFS and my other gourami is an opercula sumtin gourami,
I can't tell whether it is male or female.. but just in case their both males, because the opercula seems to challenge the other gourami, will they be less aggressive if introduced
to females of their species?

Edit:

I found out that my Filter model is Elite Hush 20.... my next step probably is to change the filter media.


----------



## bluekrissyspikes (Apr 16, 2009)

can i suggest removing the driftwood for a few weeks to see if that helps reduce the amount of amonia you are getting? if it does then you will know that it has been rotting. i would also try doing a thourough cleaning of the filter itself, and rince the bio-media out well(like you have been doing). if you have a carbon filter cartridge you can take that out to make room for extra bio-filter material. also, if you have a carbon cartridge it will remove any medication you are adding to the water before it gets a chance to work. i don't know anything about pimafix so i can't comment on that, other to question weither that has done something to slow down or kill off your good bacteria. perhaps someone else will know that


----------



## Squareheads (Oct 15, 2009)

thanks for the advice... Although I don't think the driftwood isn't the culprit,
it's been in that tank ever since it started, and the only thing that appears to
give out was the MTSs... 

I have a theory that it is probably my siblings that may be over feeding the fish.
I'll try to be more strict on that and on how much I feed and see the difference.

Can you describe what carbon filter looks like and should I rinse the biomedia
everytime I water changed?

and also may I know where
you people go to as your LFS, I usually go to Big Al's Mississauga down @ Dundas.

and can I also know what kind of filter and what media you have 
bueskrissyspikes? Should you suggest I buy a new filter or filter media?


----------



## bluekrissyspikes (Apr 16, 2009)

Squareheads said:


> thanks for the advice... Although I don't think the driftwood isn't the culprit,
> it's been in that tank ever since it started, and the only thing that appears to
> give out was the MTSs...
> 
> ...


my responses are blue....


----------



## Squareheads (Oct 15, 2009)

well for my MTS problem, I think my loaches have delt with it atleast, I know their still there, just out of plain sight, probably under the gravels. 

Also my filter has both Biomedia and Carbon, my carbon looks all green and
dirty, soo i guess I should remove it for now, but that leaves only the biofilter. leaving me to question if i remove the carbon filter, where do I put it? and will the filter work as well without it cause if the Carbon filter 
neutralizes the medicine, then I should take it off asap.

thanks for the tips


----------



## bluekrissyspikes (Apr 16, 2009)

i'd just chuck the carbon filter away and get a new one to put away for when it's time to remove the meds. if you want to treat the tank with the meds you'll have to do it again, the carbon absorbed it all probably within an hour or two of having added it to the tank. the filter will still work to process the amonia but it won't pick up as much particles. it will probably run more efficiently though, it sounds like your carbon filter is pretty clogged up and icky. if you decide you want to use carbon filters on a regular basis you should stock up on them cause you need to change them monthly. again, i recomend filling the empty space with more biomedia. it will do you more good than a carbon filter. the carbon is not necessary. the case pocket the carbon is in will be holding some of your good bacteria and removing may mean you need to do an extra water change but the sponge will catch up quickly. i wouldn't really worry too much about it though since you said you are already increasing your water change frequency. how are your levels doing now, btw? have they stabalized at all?


----------



## Zebrapl3co (Mar 29, 2006)

Sorry, wasn't following this thread till I see it today again. So I am going to be doing some back tracing.

For starter, the 1" thumb rule is not as bullock as you say. One reason being that it's the rule of thumb being used by your filter makers. So keep that in mind. If you buy a filter that filters a 20G tank. You are pretty much nailed to the 20" rule. Add more and your filter won't be able to keep up. So keep that in mind when you are shopping for a filter in the future.

You are doing good on the water changes and filter cleaning. But you shouldn't have to change water ever 5 days. Once a week should keep your water very clean. So something is adding a lot of ammonia.

Let's look at some of the stuff:
- Driftwood rotting, if your drift wood is rotting. You can easily tell by taking it out of your tank and sniff it. It will stink, so you know it was rotting.

- carbon filter, (em it's black by the way - all active carbon is black. If it's white, it's most likely a zeolite that absorse ammonia). Anyway, like some of the other members sadi, if you've been using it for 1/2 year, it's about time you trash it. Carbon needs to be changed every 1 - 3 months, see package for detailes. But most recommended 1 month. After that, your carbon will have out live it's use because it has absorbed to it's max and can no longer absorbed anymore. Leaving it in there will only allow it to release the toxin it absorbed back into your tank, when the carbon decompose.

- Food - I think this may be the source of your ammonia. Feed only once per day. Not 3 or 4 times. Feed all they can eat in 5 minutes, then scope the left over out. That is a must, otherwise, the food will decompose and release tons of ammonia into the tank.

- Before you stick your hands into the tank. Make sure it's not oily. No hand lotion, definately no alcohol cleanerizor stuff and lastly no soap. Just wash your hands with tap water for 2 minutes. If you have to use soap to clean oily hands, then keep running water over it to make sure you clean all the soap out. These things can kill off a massive amount of bacteria without you knowing. This can also contribute to the ammonia jump too.

- Primafix, is a good agent that will help the fish heal faster and address the moldy fins. You will still need to provide clean water. Otherwise, primafix won't help much. It's also a natural remedy, so it works on many types of fish.

- Harmful bacteria/virus - This is pretty deadly. Usually occurs in spring and fall (which is around this time). Virus kills quickly, fish was fine the day before and floating upside down today. All other fish are fine. Bacteria, happens slower, fish loses colours and don't eat for a few days, then died. Both are usually symptons of poor water, but can happen as a result of contaminated water from stores or ponds. I tried to treat this with primafix, fish will continue to die for up to 3 weeks and then stop. Not sure if it was the primafix or the virus/bacteria just expends itself.

Oh also, you can fill in the empty space left by the carbon with a spong or more biorings.

Good luck.

*Never pay again for live sex! | Hot girls doing naughty stuff for free! | Chat for free!*


----------



## bluekrissyspikes (Apr 16, 2009)

Zebrapl3co said:


> - carbon filter, (em it's black by the way - all active carbon is black. If it's white, it's most likely a zeolite that absorse ammonia).
> Good luck.


i was refering to the cartridge itself, not the carbon. most of the ones i've used have a coloured flossy envelope which you can't see the carbon through. i wasn't saying the carbon itself was those colours.


----------



## Squareheads (Oct 15, 2009)

So I should smell my driftwood next time? how horrid will the drift wood smell anyway?

Also, questions about driftwoods, do they all rot? and do u have to change
them from time to time?

Also about the carbon filter,
is it pure Carbon? literally the pure carbon? or is it a compound?

I'm aware of the hands sticking in the aquarium thing but for the filter...
If i buy a filter that can handle 100 gals for example, to what extent
in numbers of fish can I put, estimating their 1" in size.


----------



## Chris S (Dec 19, 2007)

Have you tested for ammonia/nitrite/nitrate yet?

At your stage, I don't think it is something that should be overlooked.

There are no quick fixes for lack of maintenance and water quality issues, no medications, or filtration, or water changes on their own are going to fix anything. 

Start with letting us know your ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels.


----------



## bluekrissyspikes (Apr 16, 2009)

getting a big filter so you could overstock the tank isn't really in the fish's best interest. there are things in the water that effect the fish other than the stuff the filter removes. they release horomones into the water and those can only be taken out through water changes. i'm sure your loaches would love the extra flow coming from a bigger filter though, they really enjoy water movement. your other fish may not be so keen on it though. 

definitely, you should be testing your water again and let us know how things are going.

i've never heard of sniff testing drift wood although it does make sense if it works.


----------



## Squareheads (Oct 15, 2009)

last time I checked my ammonia, i compared it to the card and its closest to
0.... i use drops for that but for nitrate and nitrite i use a test strip, which I
will most likely get the API mAster kit so i'll get more accurate results..

but the nitrate and nitrites seem fine.


----------



## Chris S (Dec 19, 2007)

Squareheads said:


> but the nitrate and nitrites seem fine.


What were they?


----------



## AquaNeko (Jul 26, 2009)

Squareheads said:


> So I should smell my driftwood next time? how horrid will the drift wood smell anyway?
> 
> Also, questions about driftwoods, do they all rot? and do u have to change
> them from time to time?
> ...


This is very relevent to my interests. I've boiled the hell out of my driftwood for like 7hrs when it did have the white fungus stuff that was described in my other thread. Someone mentioned it was ok and safe for the fish but I boiled the wood anyways. After boiling the wood and putting it back in the tank the white mouldy/fungus came back a few days later.   

I remember when I pulled the driftwood out the first time before boiling the driftwood the driftwood had a kind of raw meat left on the counter over night inside a house in the summer temp smell with a touch of fishy smell as well.

Just wondering, I already did 2 x 50% water changes in 2 days before putting the driftwood back in thinking perhaps the water held something that caused the wood to give that fuzz. Sorry just puzzled and confused over this an still a rookie learning on this stuff.


----------



## Squareheads (Oct 15, 2009)

well I bought my driftwood from Big Al's so I don't see why they'll sell me 
rotten driftwood... but you never knoow...

Chris S, since I have a test strip its not exact, but I believe Nitrate showed a
light pink colour, not toooo light, but very close to the one indicated
in the picture, and the nitrite is prob spot on

This was the test strip I was recommended to @ Big Al's for "beginners"


----------



## KnaveTO (May 13, 2007)

I will be honest... those test strip kits are just this site of a waste of money. Liquid drop test kits are probably your best bet. Be careful though when buying them as they have expiry dates and you need to be aware of them.

As for a white fungus growring on your wood. I had that before and the fish ate it and it went away. It occasionally shows up on wood and is harmless if a tad bit unsighly. Again it will go away given time.

I will have to try and catch up on this thread later on today


----------



## Darkblade48 (Jan 28, 2008)

AquaNeko said:


> Someone mentioned it was ok and safe for the fish but I boiled the wood anyways. After boiling the wood and putting it back in the tank the white mouldy/fungus came back a few days later.


The fungus is harmless, if not unsightly. However, it does go away on its own after a week or so. Even with boiling, the fungus will likely come back.



AquaNeko said:


> Just wondering, I already did 2 x 50% water changes in 2 days before putting the driftwood back in thinking perhaps the water held something that caused the wood to give that fuzz.


Fungus grows almost anywhere and everywhere.



Squareheads said:


> Chris S, since I have a test strip its not exact, but I believe Nitrate showed a
> light pink colour, not toooo light, but very close to the one indicated
> in the picture, and the nitrite is prob spot on


As was mentioned, these kind of strip test kits are nearly useless. For example, for the nitrites, it can only differentiate between less than/more than 0.5 ppm. What if your nitrites was 0.25 ppm? This is still lethal to fish.

The same can be said for the nitrates. Having 20 ppm of nitrates would probably look like 0 nitrates to this test kit.


----------



## Chris S (Dec 19, 2007)

It doesn't test for ammonia? What kind of crappy test kit is that.

You need to go and grab a real test kit. API or something.

First thing you need to do is test your ammonia.

Then you need to test for nitrite.

Then you need to test your nitrates.

GH/PH/KH doesn't matter right now. Chlorine? If you are using Prime properly, this is just useless. 

To be honest, I think this is the best advice anyone can give you right now.

It isn't your fault, I don't mean to be rude or anything. Your local pet shop should provide simple guidance with this sort of thing. There really is no excuse for them not doing so.

So, let's start you off on the right track. Go grab a test kit. From there, we can break down your problems, or at least eliminate some. This is important, because there is some good advice in this thread, but nobody has anything to work with so it very well might not be applicable at all. For instance, I think rotting driftwood is likely the least of your worries. It doesn't mean it is not a problem that can occur, just that it is a bit beyond some simple steps that have been skipped here.

So, with that said, let us know your testing results when you get them and from there, we shall fix your problems!


----------



## KnaveTO (May 13, 2007)

I agree with Chris on the. Go out and get yourself a liquid version of the three test kits he mentions. DO NOT let them sell you those strips again. Once you got the tests read the istructions and then perform the tests, writing down the results. Once you are done, start a new post in this thread and list the following


Tank size
Live Stock (and any missing fish)
Any additives
Ammonia
Nitrite
Nitrate
Temperature
How much and how often fed

Once you have that maybe some of us can have a bit better idea as to what may be going on in your tank, and might have some advice.

Good Luck


----------



## Squareheads (Oct 15, 2009)

well i think it was only their best interests to try and help me cause I only
had limited money

because I DOO have a budget... and buying the API Master Kit might take
a while for me to get...

So far I only have the API ammonia test kit.


soo far my tank seems fine... I stopped adding Pimafix because strangely enough, the infected guppies died... which is rather disappointing... 
considering how it IS medicine but I believe it may have made the 
other fishes more active....

my two gouramis didn't cope with each other ... sadly, the more 
peaceful one fell prey to the more active gourami, so

now my tank is down to 1 Gourami , 2 Guppies, 4 Tetras, Bushynose Pleco,
and 2 Zebra loaches

If I look @ it, my tank seems to be fine now the only thing I worry about
is my nitrate and nitrite.

I've decided to stop browsing for fish till I solve this problem.

However, My future plan is to buy a partner for my gourami, and buy floating plants>
in hopes of breeding, even if it isn't so possible, but it wont hurt to try....

but ofcourse i have to deal with the present situation.

thanks for the Advice...

ill try my best to try and buy the test kit!


----------



## Chris S (Dec 19, 2007)

Squareheads said:


> So far I only have the API ammonia test kit.


Well, what does that read?


----------



## Darkblade48 (Jan 28, 2008)

Squareheads said:


> well i think it was only their best interests to try and help me cause I only
> had limited money


Don't be fooled; most stores will do anything to make a sale. The fact that you have a nearly useless test kit is proof of that.



Squareheads said:


> because I DOO have a budget... and buying the API Master Kit might take
> a while for me to get...
> 
> So far I only have the API ammonia test kit.


Mops has the API master test kit for $30.03. You can ask BigAls to do a price match, and they will beat that price by 5% as well. It is cheaper than buying the test kits individually. Alternatively, look for sales during Boxing Week (I bought an API master test kit for $20 two years back).



Squareheads said:


> my two gouramis didn't cope with each other ... sadly, the more
> peaceful one fell prey to the more active gourami, so


Gouramis should generally be kept singly, especially in the case of 2 males.


----------



## Mr Fishies (Sep 21, 2007)

Squareheads said:


> but ofcourse i have to deal with the present situation.
> 
> thanks for the Advice...
> 
> ill try my best to try and buy the test kit!


Since you don't have the cash for the test kit, just be sure to keep up with frequent water changes. With a 20G, you should be able to do a 25% water change pretty easily, it's quick and it's cheap. Assuming you're not medicating and dumping meds down the drain.

Doing that 2-3 times a week with Prime treated water will help prevent toxic build up of various nasties that will make like for the fish miserable.

When things have normalized and you've had no more illnesses or deaths for at least 2 weeks, you can cut back on the water changes if you want to.

For what it's worth, I do a 50% water change of my 75G at least once a week and I have to say that everybody looks happier and more active after water changes. It must be the fishy equivalent of opening the windows and getting fresh air, flushing the toilet and cleaning the house up. Never a bad thing.

If you stick with regular water changes, the need for a test kit is greatly diminished - not completely, but in your case it's a good stop gap. You don't need to test for what's not there.


----------



## KhuliLoachFan (Mar 8, 2008)

I'm just guessing that you set up the tank, didn't cycle it properly, and then dumped way too many fish in there. I'm guessing you have ammonia and nitrites in there poisoning and killing your fish.

You should be (a) reading a beginner Aquarium book, (b) learning about the nitrogen cycle, (c) building up stock levels very very slowly, starting with just one or two tiny fishies in a 20gal until it's very seasoned (a month at least), and then adding fish SLOWLY.

Many of us (including me) were where you are now, and it was the thought that we're harming our wet pets that lead us to become a little more careful about how to cycle a tank (how to build up your biofilter), and to avoid things like overfeeding, and "new tank syndrome".

I am guessing that if you bought one of those Big ALs Starter kits that your filter is completely awful and useless hang-on-back Aqueon filters with those little floss cartridges with carbon inside them, that slide into a blue plastic holder. Pull that off and use it only on a 1 gallon tank, and then go get an AquaClear 70 or AquaClear 110.

W


----------



## Squareheads (Oct 15, 2009)

Ironically KhuliLoachFan.... i have been doing all that you things you have
beeen said, and the I was also learning the nitrogen cycle @ the time I got
my aquarium which was last school year.



Also guys, i really believe Big Al's didn't try ripping me off, cause the guy
that sold me the test strips, im good friends with now, and he really guides
me a lot and gives me some sweet deals in the store. : D


I probably will change the filter anyways... 

But is it possible that the carbon filter can hold fungi or diseases? cause
I have seemed to take it off, and my 2 remaining guppies seem 
fine and healthier. They'd be dead by now if it was an average guppy i 
bought.


Last time I tested water for ammonia it was 0.

so everything seems fine. 

But ofcourse I will take all your tips into mind


----------



## bluekrissyspikes (Apr 16, 2009)

the yucky carbon will start to release everything it cleaned back into the water after a while. yours was in there for a long time so i'm guessing that was probably happening.


----------

