# RO filter system - for crystal shrimps



## Fishyfishyfishy (Mar 3, 2008)

Hi, anyone using RO filters from http://www.aquasafecanada.com/ ?

I am thinking of the Home II system. Anyone using this filter right now? I can't find any reviews online.


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## randy (Jan 29, 2012)

Fishyfishyfishy said:


> Hi, anyone using RO filters from http://www.aquasafecanada.com/ ?
> 
> I am thinking of the Home II system. Anyone using this filter right now? I can't find any reviews online.


That's the exact model I have. I bought it about 2 months ago. See this thread for discussion.

I'm happy with it, but I wish I also purchased 2 or 3 extra DI filters to connect them with my unit.

It took me about 2 to 3 hours to install it myself, it should take me about 1 hour or less if I'm to do it a second time. I read the instructions three times before I started and really took my time. Trust me, if I can install it, everyone can.

BTW, I didn't really compare the price but I got it via their ebay store (search aquasafe in ebay), IIRC, I paid around $250 that's the system + 6 sets of filters, tax/shipping all included. That ebay combo also comes with a free TDS meter and a pressure gauge for free. Again, consider the DI filter, if you buy them together you'll save on shipping v.s. you buy later.


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## CrystalMethShrimp (Apr 27, 2010)

So is it 1 cent per liter or 2 cents?

And iit says the water is alkaline, what ph does it come out at?


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## randy (Jan 29, 2012)

CrystalMethShrimp said:


> So is it 1 cent per liter or 2 cents?
> 
> And iit says the water is alkaline, what ph does it come out at?


My RO PH is at around 6.5 - 7.2 right out of the storage tank, but 90% of the time it's 6.6-6.8. (Tap is 7.8). Not sure what you mean by 1 cent or 2 cents, the cost? I think in Markham I'm paying $2 for 1 cubic meter of tap water, that 0.2 cents per liter. On average, 1 liter of RO produced you waste 5 liters of water (you can adjust this ratio with this particular model, up to 1:2 I think), so 1 liter of RO costs you about 1 cent by utility. Then one set of filter cost about $20 that lasts 6 months assuming you use 3 to 5 gallons a day, and menbrane is around $50 that's every two years..... you do the math as I don't think it's that expensive and you have better water for home use too.


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## getochkn (Jul 10, 2011)

Actually, no, you don't want the DI resins. They will increase pH near 8.

This is what it used to say on the website. Not sure why they changed it but this was there before "This stage will also increase the PH of your drinking water to an alkaline state between 7.4 and 8 PH.".

This was brought up in a discussion when they were advertising the DI filters as they are a sponsor on TPT and I asked the question of them.

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/a...167968-di-resin-canister-filled-di-resin.html

So you're better off with the home system I think as you're not passing it through the pH increasing DI resin.


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## getochkn (Jul 10, 2011)

I just read through your post on Randy. Are you testing the pH straight from the unit? You're going to get reading all over the place as pure water has no buffer for a pH meter to test against. Try adding your mineral plus or whatever your use, then test pH.

Also, if you're getting a few ppm, that's fine. Those extra DI filters are what remove the last few % from the water but as stated, they also increase pH. You're better off dealing with 4ppm.


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## randy (Jan 29, 2012)

getochkn said:


> I just read through your post on Randy. Are you testing the pH straight from the unit? You're going to get reading all over the place as pure water has no buffer for a pH meter to test against. Try adding your mineral plus or whatever your use, then test pH.
> 
> Also, if you're getting a few ppm, that's fine. Those extra DI filters are what remove the last few % from the water but as stated, they also increase pH. You're better off dealing with 4ppm.


Hi GTCK, the PH is actually pretty stable at 6.8 - 7.0, even after remineralized. It does go up a bit to 7.3/7.4 after a few days in storage, but not always, it can go down to 6.5 also.

I'm not very worried about the PH for WC though, even when adding 7.3 to 6.8 tank, I don't see PH change in the tank after a WC due to 10% to 15% (small amount) and relatively close in PH and no KH.


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## Fishyfishyfishy (Mar 3, 2008)

getochkn said:


> Actually, no, you don't want the DI resins. They will increase pH near 8.
> 
> This is what it used to say on the website. Not sure why they changed it but this was there before "This stage will also increase the PH of your drinking water to an alkaline state between 7.4 and 8 PH.".
> 
> ...


I called the company and they said the I shouldn't use the DI filter if i want lower pH. It will make the pH increase.

He even said to get a T value and don't let the water go through the carbon (for drinking purposes) if I want the water to be cleaner for aquarium pets.


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## Fishyfishyfishy (Mar 3, 2008)

CrystalMethShrimp said:


> So is it 1 cent per liter or 2 cents?
> 
> And iit says the water is alkaline, what ph does it come out at?


The Home II filter produces neutral water. The Maximus model produces alkaline water.


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## BlueEL (Feb 11, 2007)

I have Aquarium II R.O / D.I System from aquasafe for more than 5 years. It's still working great. It was only $100 shipped. =)


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## randy (Jan 29, 2012)

Fishyfishyfishy said:


> He even said to get a T value and don't let the water go through the carbon (for drinking purposes) if I want the water to be cleaner for aquarium pets.


That's actually my plan but I don't want to pay for shipping (like $17 from their online ordering estimate) just for a T valve + a on/off switch. I think I saw them at Home Depot so I will pick them up there to do it. HD sells for more but still cheaper than shipping. The final stage on the HOME system adds carbon to the water to improve drinking, not sure the effects on shrimp but so far so good. If it's in a form good for plants then it's not too bad I guess, but likely, it's not.


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## getochkn (Jul 10, 2011)

I would think the carbon would be good to still remove many impurities in the water but I would stay away from the DI resins as normally we don't want our pH any higher. lol.


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## randy (Jan 29, 2012)

getochkn said:


> I would think the carbon would be good to still remove many impurities in the water but I would stay away from the DI resins as normally we don't want our pH any higher. lol.


Yeah, no kidding. When my unit was new, the PH was like 7.4 - 7.6, I thought it was the last stage doing tricks and so disappointed.


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## Fishyfishyfishy (Mar 3, 2008)

So I ordered the Home II system and the Maximus II system, both combos =) (for shrimp and drinking purposes)

I will update you guys on how the system is for shrimps. I will probably not use the last carbon stage. Definitely NOT going to use the DI resins lol ....


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## randy (Jan 29, 2012)

Fishyfishyfishy said:


> So I ordered the Home II system and the Maximus II system, both combos =) (for shrimp and drinking purposes)
> 
> I will update you guys on how the system is for shrimps. I will probably not use the last carbon stage. Definitely NOT going to use the DI resins lol ....


Hmm... why do you need two systems? Either one of the two should do both? I have the HOME II and I use it for home use and shrimps. If you want you can just get an extra T and an extra on/off switch to bypass the last stage for shrimps, I'll do that eventually but I'm happy with the water from HOME II for shrimps. PH out of it is normally 6.8 - 7.0, but lately it's been 6.0 - 6.2. However, since there's no KH, it's easily changed.


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## Fishyfishyfishy (Mar 3, 2008)

randy said:


> Hmm... why do you need two systems? Either one of the two should do both? I have the HOME II and I use it for home use and shrimps. If you want you can just get an extra T and an extra on/off switch to bypass the last stage for shrimps, I'll do that eventually but I'm happy with the water from HOME II for shrimps. PH out of it is normally 6.8 - 7.0, but lately it's been 6.0 - 6.2. However, since there's no KH, it's easily changed.


Got 2 sets for 2 house. I should get a gh and Kh test.

Do you use mosura minerals with the RO water?


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## randy (Jan 29, 2012)

Fishyfishyfishy said:


> Got 2 sets for 2 house. I should get a gh and Kh test.
> 
> Do you use mosura minerals with the RO water?


Two houses, I see.

I use BW GH UP because that what I could get. However, I'd like to get this one to try it out for its low cost and it's designed for shrimps.

1000g version (out of stock currently)
Smaller package

or maybe this one, although it's not designed for shrimps. It's cheaper too.


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## Fishyfishyfishy (Mar 3, 2008)

The water filter is great. TDS that comes out is 4ppm. GH / KH is zero. Now I need to raise the GH with minerals. How do you guys raise KH? Tap water or baking soda solution?


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## getochkn (Jul 10, 2011)

Why are you trying to raise kH? I've never found a reason to have to raise it at all. The problem with messing with it, is that it becomes hard to always get the same amount in there, and consistency over anything makes happy shrimp.

If you say using baking soda to raise your kH to your 2. Then your tank evaps 10% of the water, most of the kH will still stay in the water but will increase because it's more concentrated, then it becomes 2.2 say. Then you drain 10% more water to change, it stays at 2.2 and you add more water mixed back to 2kH back in. now it may be at 2.15 or something. You repeat this and it will creep up.

The same thing can happen with gH as well, that's why if you have lots of evap and go a long time between changes, you should top off with pure RO water or a very low TDS water. If you evap the 10% and it shoots up to the 2.2kH, then top off with RO, it goes back down to ~2kH. Then you change water with 2kH water, it should stay roughly the same. Same with gH.


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## Fishyfishyfishy (Mar 3, 2008)

getochkn said:


> Why are you trying to raise kH? I've never found a reason to have to raise it at all. The problem with messing with it, is that it becomes hard to always get the same amount in there, and consistency over anything makes happy shrimp.
> 
> If you say using baking soda to raise your kH to your 2. Then your tank evaps 10% of the water, most of the kH will still stay in the water but will increase because it's more concentrated, then it becomes 2.2 say. Then you drain 10% more water to change, it stays at 2.2 and you add more water mixed back to 2kH back in. now it may be at 2.15 or something. You repeat this and it will creep up.
> 
> The same thing can happen with gH as well, that's why if you have lots of evap and go a long time between changes, you should top off with pure RO water or a very low TDS water. If you evap the 10% and it shoots up to the 2.2kH, then top off with RO, it goes back down to ~2kH. Then you change water with 2kH water, it should stay roughly the same. Same with gH.


Thank you for your reply. I will do top offs with RO water for sure.

The reason I want to raise kh/gh is because right now my tank has:

0 KH (the color changes after the first drop, I use the API test kit)
0 GH
50 TDS

This is because of the RO water. I want to make the gh/kh/tds ideal before I put my shrimps in.

Also, I want to find out a good ratio to prepare my RO water for water changes.

How do you prepare your RO water?


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## getochkn (Jul 10, 2011)

Fishyfishyfishy said:


> Thank you for your reply. I will do top offs with RO water for sure.
> 
> The reason I want to raise kh/gh is because right now my tank has:
> 
> ...


What kind of shrimp are you keeping? CRS do fine with 0kH and trying to raise it and keep it stable is more trouble than it's worth. As for getting the gH up, there are many products, mosura mineral plus, Shikara CA plus, Fluval mineral supplement. I would stick with the shrimp products though. Kents RO right or Seachem or others add too many other things you don't need in the water.


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## Fishyfishyfishy (Mar 3, 2008)

getochkn said:


> What kind of shrimp are you keeping? CRS do fine with 0kH and trying to raise it and keep it stable is more trouble than it's worth. As for getting the gH up, there are many products, mosura mineral plus, Shikara CA plus, Fluval mineral supplement. I would stick with the shrimp products though. Kents RO right or Seachem or others add too many other things you don't need in the water.


I will keep CRS.

Yes, I should keep stuff simple. I'll just forget about the KH and focus on using my fluval minerals for the TDS and GH.

I was worried because I read about PH swings. I use Fluval Shrimp Stratum. I don't have CO2, therefore there is nothing to worry about PH swings?

Thanks for you advices =)


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## randy (Jan 29, 2012)

Check this link out : http://www.planetinverts.com/Crystal Red Shrimp.html

It has the recommended water parameters for CRS. It's a guidline, you can start from there. As GTCK said, there is no need to raise KH, just add product to reminealize your GH to 5, and then note the TDS. After a while, you can just test the TDS. You may read that TDS 150 to 200 is good, but depending on your substrate, GH5 can be TDS 100 or 150 or even higher. You need to find the balance for your tanks.

Also, if you use active substrate that buffer PH/TDS, it takes a while to stabilize, don't go crazy trying to make the perfect parameter because it doesn't exist. Find what works for you.


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## Fishyfishyfishy (Mar 3, 2008)

Thanks for your advice Randy. I will just concentrate of stable parameters, forget about making "ideal" water. I think my RO and fluval shrimp minerals will be fine. 

Thanks all.


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## Symplicity (Oct 14, 2011)

randy is right. 
As long as your parameters are within range or constant give it 2-3 months and your shrimp will adjust and begin to berry.


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