# Digitate Hydroids predator?



## Neomaxmaya

Hey guys, so I got Digitate Hydroids in my tank.
They are starting to spread and sting everything in the tank!  and its overwhelming taking them out with a tweezers as they are A LOT 
what predator would finish them? I read somewhere online that 6 lines wrasse may mown on them? 
any though is appreciated.


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## WallyB

Neomaxmaya said:


> Hey guys, so I got Digitate Hydroids in my tank.
> They are starting to spread and sting everything in the tank!  and its overwhelming taking them out with a tweezers as they are A LOT
> what predator would finish them? I read somewhere online that 6 lines wrasse may mown on them?
> any though is appreciated.


I'm tagging along. I've found no answer.

The only way I've been dealing with it, is removing whole rocks, and blasting the rock with a Propane Pencil Torch. Frying them off.
(The burning is done outdoor, with fan, gloves, googles....You have to be safe for any toxic smoke that may come off rocks, like a fried Zoa, Paly with Toxinx) 
Then soaking the rock for a while before putting back.

But they spread and spread. My whole 90 Gallon tank has a hydroid here and there, and everywhere. I've treat only the worst rocks.

I tried using one of those Aptazia Zappers that I use to control Mushroom and Palys. Works on the Palys, but Hydriods keep coming back.

Wish there was a predator (like Copperband for Aptasia, or Emerald Crab for Valonia Bubble Algae), but I don't think there is.


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## nc208082

There is no natural predator that we know of for our tanks. Fenbendazole works as a dip.

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk


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## WallyB

nc208082 said:


> There is no natural predator that we know of for our tanks. Fenbendazole works as a dip.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk


Did look up Fenbendazole. on WIki. Look like use by VETS. Where do you get this stuff, if safe?

Is this dip something you can use to kill the Hydroid, but not anthing on rock like a coral?

Or is this a way to kill everything on rock, including the Hydroid?


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## Crayon

I can't say for certain, but I am sitting here with TeeMee for New Year's Eve and we both think you should try Berghias before going nuclear on them.
Just a thought possibly motivated by too much alcohol.


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## WallyB

Crayon said:


> I can't say for certain, but I am sitting here with TeeMee for New Year's Eve and we both think you should try Berghias before going nuclear on them.
> Just a thought possibly motivated by too much alcohol.


Well Happy New you to both of you.

I wish I had an Alcohol Hang Over, when I pulled out this Rock last week.

This is my 90Gal Kitchen Tank. There are a few hydroids here and there.

See that Hole/Cave in the middle.









This rock below was pulled out last week, and this is what I found on the back side. *The Hydroid Queen Rock!!*










It was worth nuking!! Actually it not going back till it's fully dead, cured.


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## Neomaxmaya

so i found this article on Reef2Reef talking about a complete cure for Digitate Hydroids: http://www.reef2reef.com/threads/here-it-is-fenbendazole-use-against-hydroids.214950/
and one of our facebook group guys recommended it as it killed all of his hydroids by following the exact instructions in that post. he although said one of his GSP heads is dead which the method creator warned about. they say that you can use it in your tank directly if you isolate all snails and GSPs alone. attention should be paid when you isolate them not to take with them any digitate hydroids that could find a way back in your DT.
i got the Fish Bendazole of Amazon: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B009TAQ4OI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 
and waiting for the package to arrive. ill use it on my tank and report back the results.


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## WallyB

Neomaxmaya said:


> so i found this article on Reef2Reef talking about a complete cure for Digitate Hydroids: http://www.reef2reef.com/threads/here-it-is-fenbendazole-use-against-hydroids.214950/
> and one of our facebook group guys recommended it as it killed all of his hydroids by following the exact instructions in that post. he although said one of his GSP heads is dead which the method creator warned about. they say that you can use it in your tank directly if you isolate all snails and GSPs alone. attention should be paid when you isolate them not to take with them any digitate hydroids that could find a way back in your DT.
> i got the Fish Bendazole of Amazon: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B009TAQ4OI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> and waiting for the package to arrive. ill use it on my tank and report back the results.


That appears to be "Fenbendazole" as quoted above. VET stuff.
Will be looking into this. 
Snails can be sacrificed (only 5-6). I only have a tiny piece of GSP, that I worry about anyway, since it can become a nuisance weed.
Will be doing more research. And certainly keep us posted.

If this works it will be amazing. I know somebody else that has been struggling with Hyrdriods for years.


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## WallyB

I am going to try the Hydriod Remedy.

*I have a QT tank.* It already had some frag plug with Hydriods on them so nothing in this QT will touch my other tank till it is sterilized anyway.

I can bring in a few Hyrdoid rocks (Have another Smaller Hive), and can bring in some test corals.

It will be totally isolated and not wipe out my tank.


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## Neomaxmaya

WallyB said:


> I am going to try the Hydriod Remedy.
> 
> *I have a QT tank.* It already had some frag plug with Hydriods on them so nothing in this QT will touch my other tank till it is sterilized anyway.
> 
> I can bring in a few Hyrdoid rocks (Have another Smaller Hive), and can bring in some test corals.
> 
> It will be totally isolated and not wipe out my tank.


This would be very cool if you can do so!
Make sure you follow the post from Reef2Reef in terms of dosage and time and ill start the treatment once i get the package on my DT, i only have few Zoas and an elegance coral that is suffering from their stings.
Let`s keep our fingers crossed!


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## nc208082

It does work. I have done it as a dip. 

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk


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## Neomaxmaya

nc208082 said:


> It does work. I have done it as a dip.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk


Thanks for the confirmation! although its almost impossible to use it as a dip as i see the DH everywhere in the tank, even popping out of the sand! so will treat the entire tank with it, and hopefully it wont kill much of corals!
Thanks again


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## nc208082

How are you feeding? Starving the tank helps slow them down a bit I found.

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk


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## WallyB

send a pic of your corals. (And how hydroids are stinging them)

I have hydroids everywhere. Zoa and palys everywhere.

I don't see hydroids stinging yet. Maybe they are, but I can't tell.

Wondering how it happens.

But yes, I don't want that to happen so I am going to order the medication and start the experiment ASAP.


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## WallyB

nc208082 said:


> How are you feeding? Starving the tank helps slow them down a bit I found.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk


I have to feed my Zoa's and Paly's, Acan, etc. I feed Reef Roids, Coral Frenzy, and other fine coral foods. Target feeding by syringe.

But I did notice when I dosed ZeoVit Sponge Power, the hydroids did better, so I stopped.

Anyway, they have to be eliminated, so I can feed the corals again. (Slow down is not good enough, since they end up lurking in deep crevices where you can't see them. Like the rock I showed.


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## WallyB

I just placed an order for the Fish version of the product (Fenbendazole) 
Seems to be pure and higher quantity then the regular dog/vet version.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B009TAQ4OI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1&tag=vglnk-ca-c1113-20

As soon as it arrives (2-3) days, I'll try it right away.


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## nc208082

WallyB said:


> I have to feed my Zoa's and Paly's, Acan, etc. I feed Reef Roids, Coral Frenzy, and other fine coral foods. Target feeding by syringe.
> 
> But I did notice when I dosed ZeoVit Sponge Power, the hydroids did better, so I stopped.
> 
> Anyway, they have to be eliminated, so I can feed the corals again. (Slow down is not good enough, since they end up lurking in deep crevices where you can't see them. Like the rock I showed.


I have massive amounts of GSP in my tank so full tank treatment was not an option. But I did notice when stopped feeding corals, frozen foods and went ulns the hydroids reduced in numbers greatly so feeding definately plays a role in their spreading.

I created a dip and placed the coral with the zanclea hydroids on it and it did kill them off. I placed dipped rock in qt after to watch and they did not come back.

I used safeguard dog dewormer and had to sort through the crystals and create a solution that way. The fish stuff you ordered will be much better.

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk


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## WallyB

So here is the Hydroid TREATMENT PLAN (Kill plan might be a better word) with the little piece of GSP I have.

It's only a small GSP piece that hasn't even grow much off the plug.










I'll cut it into two.

One for the QT tank where I'll be doing the FIRST TEST treatment.

The GSP piece should get killed, and that will be proof dosage is strong enough to kill the Hydroids.

Then I'll trial a few coral frag cuts. A Zoa, Frogspawn, Paly, to make sure they are not harmed.

Plan is I'll treat most of the ROCKS I can EASY remove in the QT, but then at the end I may treat the Display Tank. That's when the 2nd piece of GSP will be observed. Once it's dead and gone, the hydroids should also be gone, and proof the Tank Dosage was strong enough. I have no idea if I have enough to treat 100Gallons of water in DT.


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## WallyB

Article on Display Tank Treated with Fenbendazole

https://maxdraco.wordpress.com/2013/03/14/fenbendazole-eliminate-invasive-soft-corals-blue-cloves-polyps-xenia-aiptasia-hydriods-etc/

Shows how the treatment works (with Pictures) and over a year later.

I'm pretty convinced I'll do the Out of Tank Treatment and wait a while.


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## corpusse

I've had a small amount of hydroids on my live rock for like 10 years. I periodically remove with tweezers but they've never got crazy or even moderate. A long time ago I used to worry about them but again they've just never gotten out of hand. That being said I wouldn't mind finishing them once and for all.

I am more interested in Fenbendazole as a possible clove polyp treatment. I have tons of purplish brown tiny clove polyps covering large chunks of my live rock that were brought in on some long forgotten coral. That stuff spreads like crazy and I periodically remove live rock that doesn't have many corals on it and brush them off. 

Of course I have gsp, gorgonians and other corals that would fall victim to this stuff so I'd have to isolate the infested rocks. Does this stuff effect leather corals we well?


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## WallyB

This stuff is dangerous. Will wipe out tank biology and cycle it.

Do you own research before using the stuff.

My plan is to just use it to dip treat in my QT tank the infected rocks.

Even that can be risky since rocks will absorb the chemical. Maybe not that much if dip treatment is short.

I have plenty of time to experiment in my QT.


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## WallyB

*Queen Hydroid Rock Clean (Take 1)*

This isn't the Dip Method, but I cleaned up the First Queen Hive Rock.

Just soaked it in diluted Vinegar for a hour.
Then in Fresh water for a few days.
Then back in Salt Water for couple days.
Blow torched it, and plucked it with cutter.

Now it soaking in my QT Tank for final cleanup Polishing and bring it back to life.










I kind of like this method since it's pure and chemical/medicine free.

Risk Free, but all corals have to be removed.

I couldn't do this to all my rocks, so hoping the dip method will work.


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## WallyB

I'm back.

I ordered a few pouches of the Fish Bendazole. They arrived. Pure Bedazole Power.

Been thinking on how to use the stuff.

Dangerous to dose a whole tank. But Possible using the direction in post above. Still risky, on my very biologically stable tank. Not worth the risk.

Tough to remove each rock and treat in my QT tanks, but possible for easy to remove rocks.

But that leaves me with Loonie sized patches of Hyrdroids here are there on rocks I can’t remove (LARGE BASE ROCKS).

I was thinking doing the best I can with the removable rock, and I will do that anyway.


I came up with another idea.

I can spot treat the tank Hydroid patches with Bendazole. Kind of like dipping the rocks (but IN MY TANK).

The idea is I build a mini DOME on a stick, to cover the Hydroid Area (an treat with Bendazole). Only FLAT ROCKS that the dome could seal over well, and I have a few areas like that.

Two air lines to the dome.

I dome over the hydroid patch. Inject some concentrated Bedazole using two syringes, but one sucks out water (so I keep the dome pressure equal, and nothing leaks out).
After treating, I inject clean salt water and suck out the Bendazole.
Sure some will leak into the tank, but minimal. (To montor leakage, I could add food coloring to the treatment, or something like Coral Snow which is very cloudy).

It would take two people to run the syringes, maybe a third person to keep the Dome on a stick in place.

I still have to design some kind of dome that would seal around the treatment area.

I would test this in my QT, with some Star Polyps I have. Since star Polyps are super sensitive to Bendazole, if I can treat a rock in my QT and not affect the Star Polyps it would be a success.
Even if they are slightly affected, this is not dosing the tank with whatever concentration it would take to treat a whole tank.

What do you think?


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## WallyB

*IMPROVMENT on Idea above.*

I just came up with a better design.

Still use sealed dome idea. Still use two air lines.

But no Syringes. Syringes could work, but mechanically tricky even with two people to create Zero pressure or negative pressure..

How about a vacuum. Not zero pressure.

Start a siphon on one airline. Water gets drawn into dome from tank (2nd line is close, but higher at the source side)

2nd line is in the treatment liquid (in a small jar) controller by a "airline valve". If you open the valve, it draws the treatment solution, which passes thru the dome, and out the siphon line.
Almost nothing enters the tank, but treats the hyrdroids in a bath of the Bandazole Solution.

To monitor for leaks, the treatment solution would have food coloring, or Zeovit Coral snow (Cloudy liquid).
Any seepage out of dome would be clearly seen, to create a better dome seal, or stop treatment.


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## Neomaxmaya

WallyB said:


> *IMPROVMENT on Idea above.*
> 
> I just came up with a better design.
> 
> Still use sealed dome idea. Still use two air lines.
> 
> But no Syringes. Syringes could work, but mechanically tricky even with two people to create Zero pressure or negative pressure..
> 
> How about a vacuum. Not zero pressure.
> 
> Start a siphon on one airline. Water gets drawn into dome from tank (2nd line is close, but higher at the source side)
> 
> 2nd line is in the treatment liquid (in a small jar) controller by a "airline valve". If you open the valve, it draws the treatment solution, which passes thru the dome, and out the siphon line.
> Almost nothing enters the tank, but treats the hyrdroids in a bath of the Bandazole Solution.
> 
> To monitor for leaks, the treatment solution would have food coloring, or Zeovit Coral snow (Cloudy liquid).
> Any seepage out of dome would be clearly seen, to create a better dome seal, or stop treatment.


This way seems promising and very careful. However, Doing it individually, you may as well remove them mechanically by chipping part of the stone, and save yourself the headache!
but trust me, once DH in the tank, it will spread everywhere! and you be battling it forever.
Now here is my experience:
90 Gal tank and 20 Gal sump. I've got "Fish Bendazol" early January from Amazon.ca and dosed my tank exactly how they described on Reef2Reef. 1.5mg per Galon.
Of course I removed all snails and my GSP to a QT. 
shat down the skimmer and reactor.
kept dosing Seachem stability (1 cap per day) and Nutrafin Waste Control (1/5 cap a day).
I've let the tank run for 30 hours then did 25% water change. ran the skimmer and added new AC in my reactor. all DH melted after 30 hours, but I was still seeing them dangling from the rocks.
after 2 days, I did 10% water change and refreshed the AC. ran the tank for a week, and all DH are GONE! nothing at all!
Pros Vs cons:
got phosphate spike due to skimmer off and of course the water quality wasn't great.
Got some hair algae on my rocks (2-4mm long) under the direct light.
my GSP didn't make it in the QT as my QT is new and im not that familiar of how they work, I added my snails after a week and they are now pissed and not moving well!
One of my Zoa rocks is not happy that much as half of the polyps are still closed.

However, my Elegance coral is opening up now for the first time in 2 months. it was very close to death until I treated the tank.
Bunch of other Zoa rocks (I have a lot of them) are fully open and super happy!
my Favia brain coral is also recovering its dead side due to stinging DH.

What could I've done to improve the experience?
I'll get an algae scrubber for nutrients extraction
I would reduce or remove all lights.

Last word:
I highly recommend this method if you have A LOT of DH that you cant manage individually. 
you need to stick to the instructions and dosing amount religiously! to avoid drastic crash.
As you are medicating, you need to expect a minor lose to save the rest of your inhabitant.

Good luck and keep us updated


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## WallyB

Neomaxmaya said:


> This way seems promising and very careful.
> .......
> ...
> What could I've done to improve the experience?
> I'll get an algae scrubber for nutrients extraction
> I would reduce or remove all lights.
> 
> Last word:
> I highly recommend this method if you have A LOT of DH that you cant manage individually.
> you need to stick to the instructions and dosing amount religiously! to avoid drastic crash.
> As you are medicating, you need to expect a minor lose to save the rest of your inhabitant.
> 
> Good luck and keep us updated


Hmmm. I hear your point. Hydroids are going to come back since even with my method. I'm only spot treating and not even getting close to touch the ones deep within the rocks.

But I'm still scared since it took me so long to get Algae Free. Years to get to Zero Algae.

At this point I would rather see the visible Hydroids gone, and not see algae back too. I can Treat the spots once a year. And if things get out of hand with Hydroids, do the full treatment.

I did quickly build a prototype today, of my idea. Was surprised that it worked on first try. (Didn't use the Bendazole, just RO water and Coral Snow for visible tracer)

Pictures show the gizmo and the test run.

Even came up with a name for the Gizmo (Under Water DIP).










Here it is in action.










Need some minor fine tuning, and a smaller dome (I used a smoothie Bottle top), but proves it might work for Target Treatment. 
With this gizmo I could use stronger solution too (at the target point)

Maybe even useful for feeding corals without over polluting tank and feeding hydroids.

This is the 90 Gal Kitchen Tank with the Hydriods. You can see why treating it is a concern. Just too much to risk (No idea how each coral would react).


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## WallyB

Maybe I'll try the full treatment after I build an 2nd Algae Scrubber for this tank.

I had algae problems in my 65 Gallon SPS tank, so I built a DIY Algae Scrubber into my Sump.

It's been running a few months and not a spot of Algae.

The *Algae Scrubber Build* is here with all the Details.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2570553

I'm kind of a Algae Paranoid Freek, since I've struggled so much over the years. Algae was my downfall each time.

Two years ago when my SPS tank struggled with Algae, I experiemented with all kind of sails, Crabs, and Sea hare to see what worked best. That experiment is here . http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2546249

My Son and I used those photo's and videos to make a Lego Brickworks Type movie called "Algae Wars", which is a Star Wars Parody.

First Episode was released Christmas 2015, and 2nd just this last Christmas.
The ending Episode 3 will probably come next Christmas.

Here they are.

MAYBE THERE WILL BE A SEQUEL (HYROID WARS  )

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
*ALGAE WARS - Episode-1 (The Plan)*

















*



 *

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
* ALGAE WARS - Episode-2 (The Weapon)*

















*



*
Hope I'm not side tracking this thread....

Anyway. I'll post more on my Hydriod spot treatment testing.


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## WallyB

*To summarize my Algae Paranoia*, I don't want my tank to go back to this under any circumstance.










Was caused by over feeding corals and too much red LED light (Wastes and nutrients). *Algae Scrubber* and a few other adjustments fix things.


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## Neomaxmaya

WallyB said:


> *To summarize my Algae Paranoia*, I don't want my tank to go back to this under any circumstance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Was caused by over feeding corals and too much red LED light (Wastes and nutrients). *Algae Scrubber* and a few other adjustments fix things.


WOW!! Stunning tank! Now I get what u mean ur tank is stable and no need to mess with it. 
I've gone through all ur posts and Man U have so much time and patient! I liked how systematic u r and how u research throughoutly everything!
And ur dome tool looks promesing. Just keep all pumps off while medicating and refresh ur AC after every treatment.
I suggest u spot treat for 6-8 hours if possible just to make sure the DH absorbs the medic.
Keep us updated and good luck


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## WallyB

Thanks.

Here is what I've decided to do.

This is the 20 Gallon (2x10) Experimental Setup I have.

The one I used for the Dome test.










I'll set it up to run *two experiments* for the Bendazole treatment.

*1) Using Water Change Water from my Display tank I'll setup a 19 Gallon System.
2) It has a skimmer, overflow-Sump that can hold carbon, and a tank for hold a Few Hydriod Rocks, plus a couple of test corals (Star Polyp, and few Zoas, [ Few Green Palys] and a [LPS Fragspawn which I have plenty of] *

3) I'll create a two solutions from the exact right amount of Bedazole powder to treat the 19 Gallon of water in the system.
3a) The first solution will be stronger to do the Target Treatment
3b) The 2nd solution will be the remaining of powder (Combined solutions will be good enough to treat the whole 19 Gallon)

4) I'll test the Target treatment method, step back and observe results. *(See how many spot treatments I need to really kill a Hydroid Patch).*

5) Then treat the whole system and see how corals react. Do a proper water change, recovery, etc.

The whole system treatment (#5) won't be done for my display tank, but if I do consider that option sometime in the future, I'll know what to do with the practice run.

.....what I'll do is remove all the corals (Except the grown over Green Palys), snails and just treat the rocks and wipe out all the Hydroids. Let the rocks and biology recover. And bring back the corals. (Fish Stay in DT).

This last step above is exactly how I got that Kitchen DISPLAY tank stable (The hydroid Tank), but not for Hydroids, but for ending years of Algae and Cyano. (Will I do it again. Not sure, probably NOT. Unless the Hydroids get totally out of control).

*My main goal at this point it to perfect the Target treatment, and do as best as I can to Spot Clean up the Hydroids that I have.*


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## WallyB

Neomaxmaya said:


> I suggest u spot treat for 6-8 hours if possible just to make sure the DH absorbs the medic.


6-8 hours of holding the Dome stick would be tough per patch.

I think the longer treatment time 30 hours that you did is more to clean out a complete hydroid infested tank. Every nook and cranny. Low concentration spanning longer kill time.

I'm hoping I can treat for like 5 minutes a small patch, possibly shorter with higher concentrated treatment. Key will be to have the hydroid tentacles out to absorb the med. Not closed in their tubes. Then if needed treat a 2nd time.

I'm thinking to get hydroids out an eating the MED, I'll mix the Bedazole with some kind of Food. I have Polyp Labs Poly Booster that in 30 seconds will get a coral to polyp out. I mix it when Target feeding Zoa, Acans, etc. 
(Works great).

I also have Zeo Vit (Sponge Power) and I stopped using it, since I noticed every time I dosed the stuff, the Hydroids came our more. I even emailed Zeovit, but they never replied wanting to admin the stuff fuels SPONGES and HYDROIDS too.

We'll see how things work in the Experiments over the next while. I have lots of Hydroid sacrifices to experiment on (KILL  )


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## Neomaxmaya

WallyB said:


> Thanks.
> 
> Here is what I've decided to do.
> 
> This is the 20 Gallon (2x10) Experimental Setup I have.
> 
> The one I used for the Dome test.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll set it up to run *two experiments* for the Bendazole treatment.
> 
> *1) Using Water Change Water from my Display tank I'll setup a 19 Gallon System.
> 2) It has a skimmer, overflow-Sump that can hold carbon, and a tank for hold a Few Hydriod Rocks, plus a couple of test corals (Star Polyp, and few Zoas, [ Few Green Palys] and a [LPS Fragspawn which I have plenty of] *
> 
> 3) I'll create a two solutions from the exact right amount of Bedazole powder to treat the 19 Gallon of water in the system.
> 3a) The first solution will be stronger to do the Target Treatment
> 3b) The 2nd solution will be the remaining of powder (Combined solutions will be good enough to treat the whole 19 Gallon)
> 
> 4) I'll test the Target treatment method, step back and observe results. *(See how many spot treatments I need to really kill a Hydroid Patch).*
> 
> 5) Then treat the whole system and see how corals react. Do a proper water change, recovery, etc.
> 
> The whole system treatment (#5) won't be done for my display tank, but if I do consider that option sometime in the future, I'll know what to do with the practice run.
> 
> .....what I'll do is remove all the corals (Except the grown over Green Palys), snails and just treat the rocks and wipe out all the Hydroids. Let the rocks and biology recover. And bring back the corals. (Fish Stay in DT).
> 
> This last step above is exactly how I got that Kitchen DISPLAY tank stable (The hydroid Tank), but not for Hydroids, but for ending years of Algae and Cyano. (Will I do it again. Not sure, probably NOT. Unless the Hydroids get totally out of control).
> 
> *My main goal at this point it to perfect the Target treatment, and do as best as I can to Spot Clean up the Hydroids that I have.*


Sounds like a plan mate!
looking forward the results


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## WallyB

*MOVING FORWARD (Screw the Target Treatment)*

So my Hydroids are getting worse. Looking really healthy and spreading.

Now I see them popping next to Zoa's and stinging them.

My favourite LPS Torch is receeding, while all other are fine. (Could be a tiny hydroid I can't see)

The QT tank that I left alone with some Hydroids has Hydroids spreading in there. (YUCK)

So I'm preparing a 15 Gal Water Change from DT. 
Will fill up the QT with fresh DT water.
Will do a full treatment (Bendazole) of 15 GAL QT Tank, and a removable rock loaded with Hydroids (and some sample test coral in there for observation of treatment).

I know it will work, but this is to learn the process, get concentrations right, and learn practice post treatment clean up.


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## WallyB

*QT Setup for Full Tank Hydroid Treatment with Bendazole (Sample Rock, Few Corals)*

I plan to start small in the QT Tank. Will learn the process and then depending how things go, treat the Display tank.

- I picked out a nice rock Infested with Hydroids
- A few sample corals included (GSP, LPS Frogspawn, Zoa's & Palys, Mushroom)
- There are few Brittle worms (Expect them to get zapped too)

For now I just fed the tank some Reef Roids, Coral Frenzy and Polyp Booster to get Hydriod to get into Feeding mode.

Once Corals and Hydroid acclimatize I'll treat the QT tank with the Bendazole.


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## WallyB

We see how things go with the QT treatment, but after setting up the experiment I got thinking that the DT treatment will be too drastic.

What caught my attention when removing the Hydroid invested rock is my tank (rocks,etc.) are loaded with bristle worms. When the Bendazole kills off the Hyroids it will also kill off a ton of bristle worms in my system (DT and Sump). Plus other small organisms that are affected by Bendazole. (I don't know what the target spectrum is for Bendazole).

I can't remove the bristle worms like I can snails, and stuff. They are in every nook and cranny that I can imagine.

That large amount of die off will certainly not be good.

Might be more idea to treat rock by rock in QT for an effective Hydroid reduction.

Not a total wipe out but should get things under control. Much better than tweezer plucking rocks on rock putty cover up in DT.

If I want to go more aggressive, I can wait till spring/summer and do a mini-tank tear down, and treat rocks in large Rubbermaid bins (on my deck which is right next to my DT).


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## WallyB

Almost ready to treat. Corals are acclimatizing a bit more.

Want to get QT in an better state (lighting Adjustments, Circulation etc).

I want corals looking good, to have a true observation of any negative impacts.

I setup a way to observe, a bit better than Daily Photo's.

A handy Wi-Fi WebCam that takes still photo's once every so often is great for a time-lapse playback of the treatment as it happens over time.


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## Neomaxmaya

WallyB said:


> Almost ready to treat. Corals are acclimatizing a bit more.
> 
> Want to get QT in an better state (lighting Adjustments, Circulation etc).
> 
> I want corals looking good, to have a true observation of any negative impacts.
> 
> I setup a way to observe, a bit better than Daily Photo's.
> 
> A handy Wi-Fi WebCam that takes still photo's once every so often is great for a time-lapse playback of the treatment as it happens over time.


Man im following this progress. keep it up!
An update on my end, Digitate Hydroids vanished after the first treatment, however, 2 weeks later I started to see some DH popping out from under the rocks. I reasoned it due to under dosage method procedure ive done as I was too scared to aggressively medicate the tank. so I went and re-dosed again with proper dosage. 
that said, just last night, I noticed a small one under another rock (2 weeks after the second treatment). 
as I said, I lost all my snails, and GSP. nothing else was affected during the treatment other than some extra algae due to no skimmer on.
good luck again!


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## SaltLife

Neomaxmaya said:


> Hey guys, so I got Digitate Hydroids in my tank.
> They are starting to spread and sting everything in the tank!  and its overwhelming taking them out with a tweezers as they are A LOT
> what predator would finish them? I read somewhere online that 6 lines wrasse may mown on them?
> any though is appreciated.


I saw posts saying peppermint shrinp worked for them. So i thought i might give it a try. Bought the peppermint shrimp and the first day home i watched a digitate hydroid touch the peppermint shrimp and the shrimp jumped imediately. So i doubt he will eat them.

Also i was tired of listening to hear say about digitate hydroids and so i put my hand in the tank to intentionallly touch the hydroid and i didnt feel a sting. But i have seen a coral retract upon being touched by a hydroid.

Goodluck with ur plan

Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk


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## WallyB

Still Planning before I actually treat. Even in QT.

Sure I'll pull the easy rocks and treat them in QT, but I was look over then tank and they are everywhere.

Without a full tank treatment or taking out all rocks, it's only buying time till they come back.

Then while looking at my QT setup I got an idea.

That Hang on Overflow is portable.

Why not isolate my Sump, put all the snail in here and small things.
Put bigger corals into QT tank.

And use the Hang On Overflow, with a separate empty Rubbermaid tub, and run the treatment on the tank (But not the sump).

The sump is loaded with Live Rock, critters, brittle worms & star brittle worms.
They will recede the tank after treatments.

This will allow a stronger dosage of Bendazole, to ensure they don't come back in the DT.

Fish stay in DT since treatment is fine for them.

*** KEY THING is my Tank is Glass Bottom, so no sand bed and Tons of worms and stuff dying there ***

Yes Hydroids may be in Sump, but that's a bigger journey, and might last a while.

This picture shows what I mean.










This is all just thinking out loud. Not sure what I'll actually do yet.


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## SaltLife

WallyB said:


> Still Planning before I actually treat. Even in QT.
> 
> Sure I'll pull the easy rocks and treat them in QT, but I was look over then tank and they are everywhere.
> 
> Without a full tank treatment or taking out all rocks, it's only buying time till they come back.
> 
> Then while looking at my QT setup I got an idea.
> 
> That Hang on Overflow is portable.
> 
> Why not isolate my Sump, put all the snail in here and small things.
> Put bigger corals into QT tank.
> 
> And use the Hang On Overflow, with a separate empty Rubbermaid tub, and run the treatment on the tank (But not the sump).
> 
> The sump is loaded with Live Rock, critters, brittle worms & star brittle worms.
> They will recede the tank after treatments.
> 
> This will allow a stronger dosage of Bendazole, to ensure they don't come back in the DT.
> 
> Fish stay in DT since treatment is fine for them.
> 
> *** KEY THING is my Tank is Glass Bottom, so no sand bed and Tons of worms and stuff dying there ***
> 
> Yes Hydroids may be in Sump, but that's a bigger journey, and might last a while.
> 
> This picture shows what I mean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is all just thinking out loud. Not sure what I'll actually do yet.


I totally forgot that i did test on one of those hydroids. I put a digitate hydriod that was on a empty snail shell in a little tupper ware container with tank water. I then added coral revive to the water as reccomended. It took about twice the recommended time for dipping corals for the digitate hydroid to die.

It would be interesting to see the effect with either higher concentration with shorter duration or long duration with low concentration.

Unfortunately i do not have a quarantine tank to try the second method.

Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk


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## WallyB

*THE QT Treatment Tank Corals have ALL nicely acclimatized.*

Everything looks healthy, including the Hydroid on TOP of the left rock.










Treatment can begin anytime. Now I need to read up on dosage.

Little tricky to get a proper dose with only 15 Gallon of water. Not as forgivng on accuracy compare to 65 or 19 Gallon.


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## WallyB

It's been a while, and things have been too busy to get around to doing treatment.

Kind of waiting for Spring to warm up so I can do some Tank Cleanup on deck.

But the Hydroid Farm has been doing well on it's own.
Just dumping old Water Change water into it.










The hydroids have spread, and are quite healthy.
So is everything else is in totally ignored QT Tank.

Still planning to Zap them.


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## Neomaxmaya

Digitate Hydroid are back in my tank 
I tried to treat them twice, they disappear for 2-3 weeks then they pop up again!
Certain corals are extremely sensitive to their stings like brains and zoas, other don't mind it at all like anemones and montipora.
they look like this and come out in the night mostly.








I'm leaving it now, and trying to move corals around when I see a big one popping out of the rock.


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## WallyB

Neomaxmaya said:


> Digitate Hydroid are back in my tank
> ....
> they look like this and come out in the night mostly.


That doesn't look to me like a Hydroid at all.
I have a ton of Hydroids, and they are short, and fuzzy. Like in the picture I posted above. They have a firm Calcified Stem, with an umbrella like top.... like mini feather dusters.
You have something else, unless this is a different species.

Maybe I should check at night if they extend like that. I've never paid attention to find out.


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## SaltLife

WallyB said:


> That doesn't look to me like a Hydroid at all.
> I have a ton of Hydroids, and they are short, and fuzzy. Like in the picture I posted above. They have a firm Calcified Stem, with an umbrella like top.... like mini feather dusters.
> You have something else, unless this is a different species.
> 
> Maybe I should check at night if they extend like that. I've never paid attention to find out.


It appears there are different species as some people say they have a powerful sting others say they dont bother anything. Some disappear suddenly others cant get rid of them. The lack of information about them doesnt help unfortunately.

I just managed to get rid of most of them with the odd one popping up once and a while. They just declined within a couple days and honestly i cant say i know what caused it. Was trying so many things at once with no immediate signs.

Good luck with your experiment.


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## WallyB

SaltLife said:


> It appears there are different species as some people say they have a powerful sting others say they dont bother anything. Some disappear suddenly others cant get rid of them. The lack of information about them doesnt help unfortunately.
> 
> I just managed to get rid of most of them with the odd one popping up once and a while. They just declined within a couple days and honestly i cant say i know what caused it. Was trying so many things at once with no immediate signs.
> 
> Good luck with your experiment.


I'm still not convinced that is a Hydroid.

But if it is and the story about some stinging and other not, that may explain something.

My Hydroid are ugly to look at, when noticed Up Close (They are just fuzzy spots from a distance).
But I've never seen them sting anything. Touched them with bare hands (by mistake) and never got stung like people say.
I sometimes wonder why my Zoa's won't do well, but no hydroids nearby.

So maybe there are stinging and non stinging varieties.

Plus since I've given up on accelerating my Zoa's by feeding the Tank. The Hydroids I have (in DT) are not thriving as much. 
In that QT experimental tank they are actually doing way better.

I still will do the treatment experiment in the QT tank.
But I won't treat the DT. Too risky.

I say this since I've struggled with my DT for years, and only in last couple of years (after a total crash/rebuild) the tank gone from problem plagued to stable.

I THINK I've achieve some kind of biological balance, or biological maturity.
I barely do anything.
But I feed a lot.
My other tank, I can't even drop a flake of food in, since it reacts with negativity.

So I am extra concerned to treat the DT since treatment could disrupt the My Stable Biology big time.

My plan is to just pull Hydroid infested rocks from DT and treat them in QT. Put them back Hydroid Free.
I can't remove the big rocks. 
But rocks are getting covered by Corals. Palys are taking over and I zap them with a Apstasia Electrode to keep them in check.

Also I've recently decided to move away from Zoa Garden hopes, and shift towards *Euphyllia *(Frogspawn, Hammers, Torches).

They are stingers too (certain ones, like Open Brain with Long Sweepers I don't entertain). 
The Euyphylias don't bother each other, even if they touch or overlap.
I think its one of the *Ideal Corals*, since it moves with Current, has great glow in All Lighting, doesn't need feeding (Makes own food from Light).
Plus Branching version is easy to move around. Prune. Even sell/trade when you have too much.

And recently I pulled my OVERSIZED Finger Leather which opened up more space for corals. It was shading most of the rocks below.

Things have gotten even better with Euphylias Spreading out, so ANOTHER REASON I can't take a chance to Treat the DT.

Here is what I mean.

*DT WITH LEATHER (BEFORE)*










*DT with (Leather Removed)*










*Until the Hydroids start disrupting things, I am not treating this tank (DIRECTLY).*
After struggling for years with Hair Algae, Aptasia, Cyano, Slime Aglae, Bubble Algae (I seem to have gotten past all that)
Just not worth the risk to attack some Hydroids that aren't attacking anything (YET).


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## Neomaxmaya

WallyB said:


> That doesn't look to me like a Hydroid at all.
> I have a ton of Hydroids, and they are short, and fuzzy. Like in the picture I posted above. They have a firm Calcified Stem, with an umbrella like top.... like mini feather dusters.
> You have something else, unless this is a different species.
> 
> Maybe I should check at night if they extend like that. I've never paid attention to find out.


It is Digitate Hydriods my friend. Google them or look it up here : http://www.xtalworld.com/Aquarium/hitchfaq.htm
what you've got looks like Colonial Hydriods


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## WallyB

Neomaxmaya said:


> It is Digitate Hydriods my friend. Google them or look it up here : http://www.xtalworld.com/Aquarium/hitchfaq.htm
> what you've got looks like Colonial Hydriods


Ahh. So here are two kinds.

Both nasty.


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## WallyB

I've seen something like the other kind in my tank (over the years), but it's a worm of some sort.


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## WallyB

*I got an Idea.*

Have a Sting Challenge 

Euphylia sting packs a punch. 
I know since nothing in my tank can touch them except themselves.

I'm going to mount a small head from Frogspawn so it's tentacles brushes again the patch of Colonia Hydroids.

*See who wins the Stingfest.*

*Maybe there is a natural, chemical free treatment.*

Actually I can do that in seconds in QT. I got a Fragspawn in there.
Heading to QT to adjust things.


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## Neomaxmaya

WallyB said:


> I'm still not convinced that is a Hydroid.
> 
> But if it is and the story about some stinging and other not, that may explain something.
> 
> My Hydroid are ugly to look at, when noticed Up Close (They are just fuzzy spots from a distance).
> But I've never seen them sting anything. Touched them with bare hands (by mistake) and never got stung like people say.
> I sometimes wonder why my Zoa's won't do well, but no hydroids nearby.
> 
> So maybe there are stinging and non stinging varieties.
> 
> Plus since I've given up on accelerating my Zoa's by feeding the Tank. The Hydroids I have (in DT) are not thriving as much.
> In that QT experimental tank they are actually doing way better.
> 
> I still will do the treatment experiment in the QT tank.
> But I won't treat the DT. Too risky.
> 
> I say this since I've struggled with my DT for years, and only in last couple of years (after a total crash/rebuild) the tank gone from problem plagued to stable.
> 
> I THINK I've achieve some kind of biological balance, or biological maturity.
> I barely do anything.
> But I feed a lot.
> My other tank, I can't even drop a flake of food in, since it reacts with negativity.
> 
> So I am extra concerned to treat the DT since treatment could disrupt the My Stable Biology big time.
> 
> My plan is to just pull Hydroid infested rocks from DT and treat them in QT. Put them back Hydroid Free.
> I can't remove the big rocks.
> But rocks are getting covered by Corals. Palys are taking over and I zap them with a Apstasia Electrode to keep them in check.
> 
> Also I've recently decided to move away from Zoa Garden hopes, and shift towards *Euphyllia *(Frogspawn, Hammers, Torches).
> 
> They are stingers too (certain ones, like Open Brain with Long Sweepers I don't entertain).
> The Euyphylias don't bother each other, even if they touch or overlap.
> I think its one of the *Ideal Corals*, since it moves with Current, has great glow in All Lighting, doesn't need feeding (Makes own food from Light).
> Plus Branching version is easy to move around. Prune. Even sell/trade when you have too much.
> 
> And recently I pulled my OVERSIZED Finger Leather which opened up more space for corals. It was shading most of the rocks below.
> 
> Things have gotten even better with Euphylias Spreading out, so ANOTHER REASON I can't take a chance to Treat the DT.
> 
> Here is what I mean.
> 
> *DT WITH LEATHER (BEFORE)*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DT with (Leather Removed)*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Until the Hydroids start disrupting things, I am not treating this tank (DIRECTLY).*
> After struggling for years with Hair Algae, Aptasia, Cyano, Slime Aglae, Bubble Algae (I seem to have gotten past all that)
> Just not worth the risk to attack some Hydroids that aren't attacking anything (YET).


I'm following....
BTW, your tank is fucking stunning!!!


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## WallyB

*Colonial Hydroid VS Euphyllia (Who's sting is stronger)*

I move the Frogspawn onto the Hydroid Covered Rock.

Waiting for Frogspawn to open up. It's tentacles should brush against the Hydroids.










I'll see in a few days if Hydroid get's Stung or vise versa.

I obviously can't move the Frogspawn around to kill off all the Hydroids....
At least this will let me know if my Euphyllia dominated Tank is somewhat safe with the few hydroid patches.


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## WallyB

Some time has gone by.. Frogspawn has opened up to lights.

Fragspawn Couldn't care less about Hydriods sting. It tentacles and stem *Base (Fleshy part) is directly touching Hydriod tips *.










....And Hydroids don't like the touch of Frogspawn.

Experiment is over.

At least I know.

Time to Treat QT.


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## Neomaxmaya

WallyB said:


> Some time has gone by.. Frogspawn has opened up to lights.
> 
> Fragspawn Couldn't care less about Hydriods sting. It tentacles and stem *Base (Fleshy part) is directly touching Hydriod tips *.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....And Hydroids don't like the touch of Frogspawn.
> 
> Experiment is over.
> 
> At least I know.
> 
> Time to Treat QT.


Ok, so since you don't have "digitate Hydroids" rather you are having kind of "Colonial Hydroids". And no stinging effect that could kill urcorals. Then Why are you treating the QT? 
Don't like the look of them?


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## WallyB

So I'm ready to treat. QT Experiment tank.

Things got busy.

Rock is nicly infested rock into a 10Gal QT tank. (15 Gallons total on system) SHOWN BELOW.

I have one BlueGreen Chromis in the QT so things have been fed.

The Colonial Hydroids have been spreading.

There is a green Star Polyp in there to prove treatment is working.

Some Zoa's, Mushroom to prove they will be ok.

This setup and state of things today.

At approx. 15 Gallon of Water.










I am using Pure Fish Fenbendzole Power.

So 15x1.5mg = 22.5 mg of Fenbendazole (NOT PODWER but substance) .










I say "not powder" since when I weight the powder "that says 250mg per packet, on packaging" , the packet weighs around 2.5g or 2500 mg.

There must is a carrier substance in the packet. Kind of like an aspirin pill that weighs more then the amount of medicine you take.

That red scoop spoon is volume (0.05 ml / scoop).

I scooped out the packet into test tube, and it took approx. 40 scoops.

Each packet is 250mg, so I need approx. 1/10 of a packet to get 22.5 mg of Fenbendazole. (I will be over @ 25.0mg @ 1/10)

So 4 scoops will be around 250mg of power, or 25.0 mg of Fenbendazole which will be close to what I need to treat 15 Gallons (1.5 x 15 = 22 mg)

4 scoops mixed with RO water. I'm even thinking of adding a bit of Polyp Booster in there since Hydroid love the food.

I will be running my WEBCAM timelapse mode at 1 frame per minute to capture the treatment effect.[/QUOTE]

TREATMENT JUST STARTED.
Here is webcam photo now.










Will show result after 24hours (tomorrow).

Possibly a time lapse Y-Tube video if it shows anything interesting.


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## WallyB

24 hours of treatment has certainly affected the Hyroids, but nothing else.


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## Neomaxmaya

WallyB said:


> 24 hours of treatment has certainly affected the Hyroids, but nothing else.


Cool! That's really great altho HJ I'm not convinced that what you have is a Digitate Hydroids, but nevertheless it's a good news.
Mestiriously, all DH in my tank have disappeared after adding 2 angels, a watchman goby and 2 dotty back fishes!


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## WallyB

They are not Digital Hydroids. They are colonial Hydroids. Just as awful. or close.

Glad you found a natural remedy for your Hydroids (Fish with Appetite). That is best, like getting a copperband butterfly for Aptasia, or Emerald crab for Valonia.

So treatment is complete.

Since this is QT and not a full DT with tons of biodiversity and load. I treated the QT a 2nd time to ensure no Hydriods make it.

I now did a 50% water change and will watch to see if any hydroids come back for a couple of week.

If not, I'll consider the rock safe to put back in DT.


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## WallyB

*Something unexpected. Lots of Brittle worms alive.*










I started cleaning up a QT a bit to remove some junk. *PLUS I noticed an Aptasia pop up after treatment.*

Underneath I found lost of britleworms ALIVE!!

Appears this low treatment dosage won't kill all your bigger worms.
Kind of interesting to know, that it will kill the more sensitive Star Polyps, Colonia Hydriods, but not everything wormy in your tank.

I will watch them to see if they continue to live. There is still 50% treatment in there after 50% water change.


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## Neomaxmaya

WallyB said:


> *Something unexpected. Lots of Brittle worms alive.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started cleaning up a QT a bit to remove some junk. *PLUS I noticed an Aptasia pop up after treatment.*
> 
> Underneath I found lost of britleworms ALIVE!!
> 
> Appears this low treatment dosage won't kill all your bigger worms.
> Kind of interesting to know, that it will kill the more sensitive Star Polyps, Colonia Hydriods, but not everything wormy in your tank.
> 
> I will watch them to see if they continue to live. There is still 50% treatment in there after 50% water change.


interesting eh! 
I think the CH will come back in few weeks due to weak treatment. it happened to me with DH under dosed.
but ya keep us posted.
cheers


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