# New 220gal tank



## Professor Monkey

Hello,

My first attempt at writing this ended up being a novel; got it down to this.

I have some limited experience with planted tanks. My 55gal (first picture) was fairly successful, though after looking at planted tanks online I learned that I have zero flair for aquascaping. The plants all grew very well under moderate light (2 T5s) and DYI CO2 with some minor liquid fert. dosing. Algae was literally never a problem and the plants would often pearl nicely, but the maintenance (especially stem plants) was too much and disturbing the substrate to replant trimmed plants required running my diatom filter to prevent bacterial blooms.

Along with the extra work that goes along with a bigger tank, my new 220gal also requires scuba gear to reach the substrate at the back of the tank (hadn’t considered that when buying it) so I am looking to make this tank low light/tech and low maintenance.

The tank has been full of water since the middle of December and has had a few fish in it to help cycle and get some nitrates in it.
There is no heater on the tank and it keeps a consistent 70-71F.
The substrate is small grain inert gravel. (Not ideal for plants I know)
I have two 36" LED lights on the tank that have 6500K whites and also one in three are RGB. The manufacture claims 20 PAR at 24" so the bottom of the tank is very low light. I would be willing to double up on these lights in future if they are insufficient, but at $200 each I would rather not have to.

You’ll notice that the water is tinted and there are rocks on the log. The log is still spewing sap and likely some tannins, and has yet to become completely waterlogged. It used to require two more heavy shale rocks to keep it submerged so it’s getting closer to saturation; I hope it doesn’t need to be weighed down. 

I have 2 annubias, java fern, 2 crypts (red + bronze), and some narrow leaf chain swords right now. The initial leaves of the chain swords are dying off but they have already sent out stolons; the new growth has very light colouration, but hopefully it will be okay (not sure if it’s nitrate deficiency, low light related, or normal). There might be a little bit of growth by the crypts, but it would be minimal since they will not have established roots yet. Future plans are to establish some background in the back right corner with vals and get some patches of moss growing on the log. I have some Blyxa japonica in some other tanks that I am hoping will grow well and can be used as a midground plant to encircle the middle and left hand side of the log to create a hedge to separate the foreground chain swords from the background and log. Also, I have some dwarf hair grass which I was thinking might work in the foreground on the right side of the tank in front of the log.

I am unfamiliar with the vast variety of plants and their possible uses and am hoping that some of you can suggest some aquascaping ideas and low light species.

Thanks for reading!


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## DaFishMan

Great job so far. That long piece of branchy driftwood is killer !


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## Professor Monkey

DaFishMan said:


> That long piece of branchy driftwood is killer !


Agreed! Lots of potential in it for sure. I haven't been able to find a tank setup that is close (and simple) enough to that piece for me to copy. Try as I may, I lack imagination and can't picture what I want it to look like. I am hoping some people can help me with ideas, but if not I'll likely add plants slowly and fiddle with it until something works.


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## balutpenoy2oy

how about these three;

http://www.google.ca/imgres?imgurl=...eVIrrJYe8yQTsxoHQAQ&tbm=isch&ved=0CDcQMygHMAc

http://www.google.ca/imgres?imgurl=...eVIrrJYe8yQTsxoHQAQ&tbm=isch&ved=0CDQQMygEMAQ

http://fish-etc.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/Planted-tank-rile-of-thirds-2.jpg

Look like these are irrelevant to LOW light but you can alter plants of your needs.


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## Yann

I might suggest browsing The Aquatic Gardeners Association website:
http://showcase.aquatic-gardeners.org/

Entries are from experienced and not so experienced aquascapers so there is a wide variety of inspiration to draw on for your own project.

GLHF!


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## Professor Monkey

Thank you all for the advice and recommendations. They are very much appreciated.

I have spent the better part of 2 weeks on the Internet looking at tanks, watching youtube videos, and reading forum discussions. The number of hours is somewhat embarrassing but it has been for the most part very enjoyable and informative.

In my ignorance I believed that just throwing that awesome log into the tank and adding some plants here and there would "end up" looking good. lol. I really should have known better. 

After realizing that a flat unsculpted substrate makes the tank look flat and 2 dimensional I was able to add a bit of depth. The updated picture doesn't really do it justice, but the little bit of sloping has made a significant difference already.

One of the problems that was preventing me from making progress with the tank was the fact that I was undecided about what fish I wanted to put in it. My original plan was to put some sunfish and perch in the tank (they can actually be legally be acquired from fish farms) and that had dictated the low LED lighting and inert gravel for the tank. I have now completely changed my mind and am now more interested in the plants and the aquascape than in the fish that will go in it. *insert choice of profanity*

Since the amount of free time that I have varies with each month and each season I want to build an adaptable tank that can handle a couple of months of just water changes without any other serious maintenance.

The Walstad method for planted tanks came up rather quickly and frequently in my searches and I will be giving it a go since it describes almost exactly the type of tank that I am interested in building. The idea of having to start the tank almost from scratch with a methodology that I have never experienced is daunting, but I plan to make the most of it. 
After learning about the golden ratio and focal points for creating depth and balance in the tank I was able to identify some of the factors that were making my tank displeasing to the eye. The annubias plant in the middle of the tank is very bright and catches the eye immediately, unfortunately it is very central and immediately ruins the ideal 1 : 1.6 ratio. The rocks weighing down the driftwood also draw the eye and are horizontally in line with the annubias so it takes away depth. Those are easy fixes, but unfortunately I believe that the log is too long. The left tip is well lit and close to the front of the tank so it will likely always be a focal point. Since the left side of the tank is the most visible part due to the positioning of the tank relative to the room it is vital that this focal point is well placed. I think that you will agree that it is too close to the edge of the tank and it would be easier to create balance if it is moved to the right. Initially I thought that the only challenges posed by the driftwood would be getting it waterlogged and hiding the angled cut at the far right. Now I need to cut that end so that I can move the left tip into a better position. I am trying to be positive about the fact that I will be draining the tank to install a Walstad substrate anyways so it is the obvious time to cut it, but I do not look forward to lifting that heavy sucker out; it is literally a couple inches short from being the longest possible thing to get into the tank.


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## Professor Monkey

*New Plan*

I will provide photos and observations of my implementation of the Walstad substrate and the cutting of the log on Friday, but for now here is a better idea of what I am looking to create.

This plan will undoubtedly change as I learn which plants work in my tank and how better to use them, but I think that I should be able to create a pleasing balance if I can get the plants to grow well. I'll be sticking with the low lighting for now as the addition of diy CO2 has stimulated some decent growth in most of the plants in the tank. If the new substrate isn't sufficient for healthy slow growth I will explore increasing the lighting.

Things that I am particularly unsure of are how well the crypt balansae would work as a corner background plant - will it fill in that corner, or will it be too sparse? 
Should something go in behind the chain sword field? I plan to make the field wedged to add depth. The point of the wedge will likely be further to the right and might be able to accent the fern clump as a focal point.
The dwarf hair grass is a ??? too. I know a carpet would require higher lighting, but it seems to be growing in my inert gravel so I'll keep an eye on it and maybe get a nice sparse patch out of it.

Again, I welcome suggestions and advice based on your experiences; it has been very helpful


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## cb1021

Tank looks great with your illustration. Regarding cutting the log, I'm not sure if it'll be worth the trouble. When you cut the log, you want to attach a slate into it so you can angle the tip (twiggy) upwards? That would work but you need a heavy piece of slate as I'd imagine the log to be very heavy after being water-logged. Also I'm not sure if you agree, personally I like to have flow from left to right. That means the left being the "heavy side". Heavy means having more dense plants in that area, but also I'd flip your driftwood to have the stump part on the left and the twiggy part on the right. 

In terms of carpeting in low light, I think you'd have trouble in a tank of that footprint and height. White sand can be an option in terms of getting a visual ground cover. 

Also another note regarding the wood, I think it will be cool if you had the stump at the top left corner, with twiggy size pointing at 45 degrees towards the bottom right. This would require epoxy/silicone to secure it but it provides a natural look imo. Your tank is very tall, therefore you have a very empty mid level and top level. 

Also for fish, if you want sunfish or perch, wouldn't they uproot your plants? They're quite heavy fish, no?

Btw I just realized: Swords. A large low-tech tank like yours, you're better off with sword plants. Would be an amazing setup.


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## Professor Monkey

cb1021 said:


> Regarding cutting the log, I'm not sure if it'll be worth the trouble.


I was literally just sitting in front of the tank thinking the same thing. Since I have to drain the tank and remove the gravel to make way for a sub layer of dirt I will try removing it and cut just a few inches off the square it up so I can get it up against the glass a bit better.



cb1021 said:


> When you cut the log, you want to attach a slate into it so you can angle the tip (twiggy) upwards?


Thought of that too, but due to the serious weight I am not confident it would be feasible for me.



cb1021 said:


> Also I'm not sure if you agree, personally I like to have flow from left to right.


The right side is against an outside wall and the left side is where the dining room (tank location), kitchen, and family room meet. It's a high traffic area and the most visible part of the tank; I'd like to keep it mostly open to attract swimming fish and so that I can look down the length of the tank as I walk between kitchen, family room, and dining room.



cb1021 said:


> In terms of carpeting in low light, I think you'd have trouble in a tank of that footprint and height. White sand can be an option in terms of getting a visual ground cover.


Yes, very good point. At 20 umol of PAR down at the substrate there is no chance of carpeting. My original idea was to get a meadow of chain sword to simulate a carpet; the height of the tank should allow for taller growth to look carpet-like. But I just got the okay from my wife to double up my lighting so I should be pushing 40 PAR now. Woo! I'll see what I can get to grow with that.



cb1021 said:


> Also another note regarding the wood, I think it will be cool if you had the stump at the top left corner, with twiggy size pointing at 45 degrees towards the bottom right. This would require epoxy/silicone to secure it but it provides a natural look imo. Your tank is very tall, therefore you have a very empty mid level and top level.


Very awesome idea... Super awesome. But I have zero confidence in my ability to get that heavy sucker to stick. It isn't seen in the picture, but the main part of the trunk is hollowed out about 5 inches into the trunk. The surface area of the wood contacting the glass would be significantly reduced by this hollowed out section.

I'll have to figure out some background plants or floaters to fill in the top.



cb1021 said:


> Also for fish, if you want sunfish or perch, wouldn't they uproot your plants? They're quite heavy fish, no?


Right you are. The sunfish (males especially) would rip up all of the plants and dig nests. Hence I am going with the typical community fish.

Thank you so much for your insight. You've given me a LOT to ponder.


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## cb1021

Check here for inspiration. Your tank size offers a unique opportunity.

https://m.youtube.com/user/DefiniteAquascapeTV/search?query=xl


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## Professor Monkey

So while draining the tank to put dirt in it I removed the red slate rocks and found that even after 2.5 months the log is still extremely buoyant. This opens up the possibility of epoxying it to the glass in the top right and pointing the branches down to the bottom left; the buoyancy will support the weight while I press it against the glass and wait for it to set.

Now to get the branches all square and test how well the epoxy bonds to glass.


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## cb1021

Here's the thing, if you epoxy the log onto glass, the buoyancy of it will exert upward pressure. I think what you can do now is wait for the log to be seasoned (keep it under slate). Then plant whatever plants you want - get your tank started, cycled, growing. Then in a month or two, you can still rearrange the log to another position. Epoxy can work on wet surfaces, just buy the right one. 

You don't want to rush things, because you need stability in your hardscape. In the meantime, you can cycle it, get plants growing, and add whatever fish you want.


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## Professor Monkey

Backed out of the epoxying to glass; if I screwed it up it would be a permanent eye sore.

I am going to carve out the inside of the log, pack it with gravel and seal it shut. There is some rotted wood in it which I think is preventing it from being more dense than water.

Thanks for the help


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## DaFishMan

soak it in hot water a few times, weighing it down with something in a tupperware or bucket. I boil water in the kettle, leaving enough for coffee of course


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## Professor Monkey

Ended up needing to pack it with gravel AND screw about 20 lbs of rock to the bottom of it.... and it's only just keeping the thick half down. The long twisty branches are still trying to float so the log is angled up to the left.

Going to get the plants in tomorrow and post pics. Fingers crossed it looks half decent.


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## Professor Monkey

Still need to attach the Java Ferns (needle, trident, and regular)
Updated to a better picture


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## cb1021

eh that driftwood looks really good with that angle.


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## Professor Monkey

It's been awhile since I last updated so here is where the tank is at now. I believe that I used too much dirt under the gravel so I am getting occasional bubbles of H2S, but hopefully when more of my root feeding plants take hold that will stop.
I just repaired my DIY CO2 system which had a leak at the seals. The powerhead draws up the CO2 from under the tank well. Although the larger bubbles float to the surface immediately, most of them are blasted down towards the bottom left. As the current dissipates the bubbles rise and are again blasted down by the current from the FX6 outflow - not anywhere close to as good as a pressurized system, but pretty good injection for DIY. 
I am mostly pleased with how the plants are turning out, but I've already got plans for future changes.
The crypt spiralis on the left is very bronze in colour instead of the green I was hoping for; apparently this happens in high lighting which I don't think I have (less than 40 par at substrate). Maybe future growth will be green. I wanted crypt balansae in that spot but couldn't find any. 
My other crypts (wentii, tropica, and ghecco) are all still mostly dormant, maybe the CO2 will wake them up.
The e. Tenellus (chain sword) grew well, then melted a lot, but now seems to be coming back. Still a few months before that carpets well I think. 
My downoi is also stagnant and I'll probably move it to another tank.
The hygrophila polysperma is going nuts and is carpeting without any training or trimming - I'll be wrapping it around to the front towards the Blyxa which is also doing well.
This picture is from after a trimming so the ludwigia brevipes doesn't look great, but it's coming a long well and starting to produce a good number of side shoots.
The pennywort wrapped around the log was cool at first but I find it's blocking the amazon behind it too much - I'll likely remove it and replace it with java fern once the rest of the plants are more established. It's growing like a weed and helping to keep my nitrates at 5 ppm or less.
The Tiger vals behind the log have made a couple dozen runners and are finally getting taller than the log.
The needle, trident, and regular java Ferns are starting to grow, but I am not sure that I like their locations yet.
The anubias on the right is growing very well, but the left one I will move down to the shaded area at the base of the log.

Once my sick millenium rainbowfish heal they will rejoin the others. I have 4 boesemani, 4 Parkinsoni, 5 Turquoise, and 5 millennium - most 2-3 inches and not showing great colour yet (except the millenniums which are stunning). There are also 12 neon serpae tetras, 4 small true SAE, 3 Bristlenose plecos, 3 gold gourami, 3 blue gourami, and 3 pearls. I have 11 tiger barbs in a 55 gallon that will be added once I am sure that they don't have any diseases - one was sick on arrival and died quickly :-(
It's going to be a full house once they are all adults, but if the plants grow in well they should be able to keep the Nitrogenous wastes in check. If not, then some fish will be moved to my basement tanks.

Also, I purchased some daphnia from Boreal Science which I have in a 10 gallon tank. There's only a few dozen, but they are already multiplying and should be ready for consumption in a few weeks. Very cool little bugs.


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## tranceaddict

WootWoot Rainbow's. Where did you buy the Bos rainbows from?


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## Professor Monkey

All rainbows from Mike Bandura at Finatics.
I was very impressed with the quality and health of his rainbows; they all survived the drive from mississauga to brooklin. The ones at my LFS were all sick and in bad shape


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## cb1021

That's looking amazing!


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## tranceaddict

Yeah they look real nice. I'll be stopping by there to trade and buy some female bos rainbows.


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## Professor Monkey

Diy co2 system has been up and running for a few days now. My anubias barteri sprouted these 2 flowers almost immediately.
I am definitely pleased with its simplicity and results.


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## mitko1994

Wow looks great! The flower in the second picture looks like the plant is giving you the finger


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## Professor Monkey

Update time!

My fish are all doing well  
My sick millennium rainbows have all recovered - one of the males took longer than the others to heal and will be returning to the tank shortly. 
The addition of the tiger barbs went well aside from the 1 of the 12 that died in QT. They sometimes tail the rainbows when they intend to spawn - the male millennium chases them off but the barbs seem to treat it like a game.

I am contemplating the addition of cardinal and black neon tetras. I am at around 100 inches of fish but the nitrates are barely detectable despite only doing a single small water change in the last two months. The Walstad method in conjunction with the FX6 and about 400ml of purigen seems to be very effective. The rainbows have a lot of growing to do so I'll hold off for the time being and see how things develop.

As you can see the plant growth has been very good for the most part. My diy CO2 seems to last about 2 weeks before needing a change.

Significant changes include massive growth of the crypt spiralis in the back left. The initial growth was bronze, but now newer growth is bright green. The E. Tenellus is carpeting well - it seems to undergo cycles of turning over leaves, but has been very easy maintain. The hygro grows like a weed and has been hacked back a couple of times already - I like the fullness of the plant but it requires weekly trims and the occasional hack job to keep it in line. I removed the pennywort from around the main branch because it was growing out of control and blocked the view of the sword. When the Java ferns have grown more offspring I will attach them to multiple locations on the log along with some java moss.

My crypt wendtii are still showing minimal growth. I know they are a slow growing species, but I am starting to get impatient. If they would hurry up and get a few inches taller and bushy that would be nice.

Sorry for the poor phone photos - I really need to get my dad's Nikon for a few days.


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## cb1021

Wow that tank looks incredible. Big tanks rock


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## Professor Monkey

The tank continues to do very well. All of the fish are healthy and the colour of the rainbows is ever improving as they get larger. I love how active and friendly they are.



A few changes have occurred since my last update:

All of the crypts have finally shown a measurable amount of growth. I am still hoping and waiting for the bronze crypts to fill in the middle ground on the left and the foreground on the right to a greater extent, but they are making progress so I am not yet considering replacements.

The E. Tenellus (narrow left chain sword) has proliferated to the extreme. Many of the more established nodes are producing larger leaves which I don't particularly like so I am slowly removing them. For now they are going into my 55 gal which I dirted last week and I will start a new thread to document its progress.



I hacked back the hygro a few days ago so some of the less appealing growth is showing atm. This plant is 10x more work than all of the others combined, but its cover and nitrate absorption is too valuable for me to get rid of it.

The ludwigia brevipes isn't filling in as I had hoped. Some of that is likely due to its location (sandwiched between the hygro and the amazon sword) but I suspect that it needs more light. I was at the cottage for a weekend and when I returned the lights on the tank were on when they should have been off; the digital timer malfunctioned. I don't know how long they had been on, but the ludwigia had grown more in that weekend than it would in a week, and the red colouration was MUCH brighter than previous growth. I have put some cuttings in my 55 gal which has more lighting (two t5 bulbs) to see how it grows. If I am unable to cultivate some better plants to put in this tank I will remove this plant and let the hygro take over its place.

A central gap, where a piece of zucchini is, has formed due to the removal of pogostemon helferi. Although it was growing, the chain sword and hygro were out competing it (surprise surprise) and it was being overrun. It now resides in my 55 gal. While slowly and gently removing it, as to avoid stirring up too much dirt, my SAE were enthusiastically nibbling on my arm which tickled so much I couldn't stop laughing. Apparently I taste good.

The blyxa japonica has been steadily filling in. I was hoping to take some cuttings and spread them out, but the offshoots have been very short and it would be difficult to remove the shoots and plant them in the substrate.



The tiger vals are really starting to fill in the background and are spreading rapidly. I'll definitely have nodes to share with others very soon.

Lastly, I moved the needle leaf java fern from its central position on the top branch to the crotch of the lower branch. I am still waiting for the java ferns to fill in more to get the effect I am aiming for, but I feel that this move improves the balance of the tank quite a bit.

One other change that I have made is in regards to how I use Purigen in my FX6. I have been using purigen to combat the tannins released from my driftwood with great effect - the added bonus of minimal nitrates is also much appreciated. Previously I packed about 500ml in "the bag" and would have to take apart the filter once per week or every other week to rinse the purigen and expose fresh balls since the water wasn't flowing through the packed bag. I am now using two bags with about 200ml each, placed side by side. After less than a week the water is clear than its ever been. This photo is taken down the length of the tank. That's 6 feet of clear water despite a massive log that is still leeching tannins. After seeing the difference between the current clarity and the initial murkiness of this tank I highly recommend this product to anyone who wants clearer water.


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## Poseidon

The tank looks stunning! Well done!


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## Professor Monkey

Thank you!!


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## iamaloner

amazing. looks beautiful
love how well it has grown in


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## Professor Monkey

I had a super busy fall and my tank was largely neglected for a couple of months. After 2 months of nothing but feeding the fish it ended up looking like this:


Nitrate went up to about 20ppm after having stayed constant for about 6 months at 5 ppm. There was also a fine splattering of green spot algae on the glass. My FX6 got so clogged with debris that its flow was severely impacted - I won't be letting that happen again :-s

After ripping out a 4 gallon bucket of hygro, tiger vals, crypt spiralis, and an amazon sword the tank is left with this:


I still need to pull some more Vals and move the upper leftmost clump of Java fern down on the log so that the transition from dense growth on the right and open space on the left is a bit smoother, but overall I am pleased with the changes. The rainbows definitely are happy with the extra room in which to frolic.

When the hygro fills in (as it always does), and if the blyxa japonica takes hold, I think this will be the layout for the foreseeable future.


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## cb1021

Beautiful tank. Low tech tanks are awesome. 

Do you use co2?


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## Professor Monkey

For the first few months I had two 4 litre jugs of DIY CO2 which were fed into a maxi jet powerhead. Although the diffusion was poor it caused some pearling and a noticeable increase in growth. I haven't run it since the beginning of the summer and it definitely isn't necessary, but I have considered putting together a fresh batch to help get the blyxa japonica nice and bushy.


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## planter

That tank is impressive well done.


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## jimmyjam

awesome low tech setup man. kootos


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## Silverkitty26

Wow! That looks amazing! Great job.


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## Professor Monkey

So about 2 weeks ago my tank sprung a leak. Thankfully I was cooking dinner and heard the dripping the moment it happened - I had literally just looked under the tank early that night to reset the FX6 filter so that it could clear some gas and it wasn't dripping at that time. The stream was steady, but it was localized and slow enough that I had time to go get hoses and start draining the tank without it overflowing.

The tank was warrantied and my reimbursement is in the mail.

My fish and some salvaged plants are in a 55 gallon in the basement.

The new 220 is moved in and ready to be setup. I'll be doing the same substrate of potting soil capped with gravel.

After 3 years the tank was exceptionally grown in and almost self sufficient - I'd do water changes, clean the filter, and rip out a bunch of plants once every 4-6 months without nitrate or algae problems. Well, a thin layer of green spot algae that wasn't noticeable unless you really looked for it. The routine was probably a bit hard on the FX6 motor, but it's hanging in. Feeding the fish was more work than the rest of the tank.

I plan to have a similar layout, but there's a few changes that I'd like to make and I could use some advice on plants and layout.

Firstly, I had crypt spiralis in the back-left; it would grow to the surface and shade out everything below it and then spread runners like a menace (see below for a mid purge pic of the mess it made). I didn't care for how it looked and it won't be back in the new tank. I'd like to keep the front and left more open. 
The Hygro was also prone to exploding into the middle and shading the chain sword E. Tenellus. I don't want any stem plants that need trimming - I don't have the time or motivation, and my back disagrees with the activity. 

The log will stay in the same position covered with anubias. I'd like to have the tiger vals along the back to make a backgound screen. A crypt (maybe green?) in the front far right.

I previously used the E. Tenellus as a carpet with decent success. It covered well and the younger nodes were nice and got dense after it really got going with runners. However, the older established nodes would get bulky (taller and fuller) and disturb the eveness of the carpet, it would also start getting taller (6-8 inches) if at all shaded by other plants. Would crypt parva be a better alternative? I know it's slow, but I can wait.

I'd need to use some crypts in the middle to transition from the carpet to the vals. I have a bit of crypt green gecko which I really like and think would make a good focal point with its green and red/pinkish leaves, but I am at a loss for how to arrange them and which species to use.
It's a large space, and I want a simple clean layout without a hodgepodge of different species, but I don't know if one carpet plant, one species of crypt in the middle, and just the Vals as a back is too minimalist.

Any thoughts would be very appreciated.


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## Professor Monkey

Some pictures of the new tank. Lots of tannins are leeching from the soil but should be dealt with by some more water changes, and the filter which has yet to be installed and will contain Purigen.

I haven't planted the 3 nodes of Crypt Green Gecko yet - anyone have any suggestions as to a good location for a reddish accent plant?


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## iamaloner

Professor Monkey said:


> Some pictures of the new tank. Lots of tannins are leeching from the soil but should be dealt with by some more water changes, and the filter which has yet to be installed and will contain Purigen.
> 
> I haven't planted the 3 nodes of Crypt Green Gecko yet - anyone have any suggestions as to a good location for a reddish accent plant?


Looks awesome.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


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