# RO/DI Recommendations



## CamH

Good afternoon all!

Getting ready to setup my first FOWLR and I've been seeing lots of talk about RO/DI systems. I have a 90G tank and was planning on doing 20G water change every 2 weeks. Is there an RO/DI unit that someone could recommend. I've been seeing 100G and 50G unit and I really only need to filter 20G so it's a little confusing. I'll admit, I haven't read a lot on this topic but people seem adamant that it's a good thing to have?

Cheers


Cam


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## sig

http://www.reefcentral.com/index.php/rodi-faq

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## kookie_guy

Check out the RC link posted by sig....

The GPD is the amount of clean water the membrane can produce in 1 day.

100gpd is plenty fine. These are not cheap, but awesome units. They do go on sale from time to time, and if I recall, at boxing day they were stupid cheap. I think $200 or something around there.
http://www.jlaquatics.com/phpstore/store_pages/product-info.php?product_ID=vt-ro100di

In my opinion, that's a big water change. I would do 10gal, not 20gal. Spend the money on a good skimmer. Personally I use a vertex omega 150 on mine, and love it. The Canadian support is fantastic as well. For your tank, the 180 would be a good choice. Again, you missed the insane boxing day specials that JL had on them.


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## CamH

kookie_guy said:


> Check out the RC link posted by sig....
> 
> The GPD is the amount of clean water the membrane can produce in 1 day.
> 
> In my opinion, that's a big water change. I would do 10gal, not 20gal. Spend the money on a good skimmer.


That's great info! I'm going to be getting the Reef Octopus BH-2000 for my skimmer. If you suggest I only change 10G instead of 20G, why get a RO/DI that does 100GPD? Wouldn't a smaller unit suffice?


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## sig

http://www.maxwaterflow.com/6-stage...hydroponics-reverse-osmosis-system_p_850.html

free shipping. they have more systems

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## sig

CamH said:


> That's great info! I'm going to be getting the Reef Octopus BH-2000 for my skimmer. If you suggest I only change 10G instead of 20G, why get a RO/DI that does 100GPD? Wouldn't a smaller unit suffice?


Unit has nothing to do with GPH. it is membrane and flow preventer. Buy unit for 25gph, change membrane to 100 gph an it will be 100ghn unit

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## CamH

sig said:


> Unit has nothing to do with GPH. it is membrane and flow preventer. Buy unit for 25gph, change membrane to 100 gph an it will be 100ghn unit


Thanks Sig. That really clarifies things. And that MaxWater place looks perfect. They're only 10mins from me. Have you bought any of their units? Any issues?


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## sig

also based on the size of the aquarium/sump; home conditions you will need to add fresh water constantly to maintain the same level of salinity. on my 120 G I was adding more than a gallon daily

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## kookie_guy

Like sig said, it's the membrane that determines the GPD (not GPH, that's a typo). The rest of the system will be exactly the same.

One reason to use a 100GPD vs something smaller, is that folks typically collect a large amount of water. Personally, I have about 7 or 8 5gal buckets that I fill every 2 weeks. Some collect it in huge 50gal drums. If you were using a low volume membrane, it would take MUCH longer to collect the same amount of water.


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## sig

CamH said:


> Thanks Sig. That really clarifies things. And that MaxWater place looks perfect. They're only 10mins from me. Have you bought any of their units? Any issues?


I called them today, but did not understand if they open for public., but looks like their online prices is cheaper than in the store. there is one on ebay,

my problem that in my location I need booster pump to increase pressure from the main line to the unit

this is a perfect unit for this money and free shippin

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/6-Stage-100G...all_Kitchen_Appliances_US&hash=item4cffc1cae9

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## kookie_guy

This is the exact unit that I have, and it works great.

http://www.aquasafecanada.com/products/aquarium-ii-rodi-system.html


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## CamH

sig said:


> this is a perfect unit for this money and free shippin
> QUOTE]
> 
> How about this one:
> 
> https://maxwaterflow.3dcartstores.c...-gpd-pure-0-ppm-ro-di-water-filter_p_924.html
> 
> Only $20 more and I might be able to order online and pick up to save shipping


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## sig

In my opinion - more than 4 stages is waste of money. Depends on the water quality in your area and volume you will produce, filters should be replaced. I changed prefilters every 3 months and DI every 5 months.

we try to archive 0.00 PPM for our needs. You will get 0.00 with 4 stages unit or with 20 stages unit. Whats the point to have many filters.

Even if I will buy 6 stages from them, at the moment I need to replace filters -- 2 stages (canisters} will go to the garbage

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## CamH

Is the pressure gauge necessary? The cheaper unit that you linked does not have one but the one I did does have one.


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## sig

good to have, but nothing else. I use unit without it for 5 years.

this is the best.

http://www.jlaquatics.com/product/vt-ro100di/Vertex+Puratek+Deluxe+RO+DI+Filter+-+100GPD.html

Currently Canada Corals have like this in stoke for 320. you can drive there

http://www.canadacorals.com/

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## fury165

Max Water is open to the public and I have been using their 75gpd unit For drinking water and RODI for the past four years. ONLY THING I changed was the supplied Horizontal DI canister to a standard vertical canister since the vertical flow is more efficient. These units are universal and you can buy other brand filters elsewhere if you like. 

Also note that the 75gpd membrane is the sweet spot with respect to the rejection rate for most membranes - 98% (75GPD membrane) vs 96% (100GPD Membrane).

If you want to increase your GPD and reduce your waste water you should look into the Bulk Reef Supply's 150 GPD upgrade kit which essentially is two 75 GPD membranes installed sequentially and reduces the waste water by 50%.


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## sig

thanks. I should by unit again 
I personally don't like their use of not clear canisters

are you using their booster pump?

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## fury165

sig said:


> thanks. I should by unit again
> I personally don't like their use of not clear canisters
> 
> are you using their booster pump?


Was this question for me Sig? My unit has a clear body on the first chamber, this is the one I use to gauge when to change the filters anyway.

I looked at the site and you can custom build your RODI unit, and if you want all clear housings it will cost $4.00 more &#55357;&#56860;

No, I don't have a booster pump, when I was purchasing the unit I wanted one but he told me I didn't need it in the GTA since the water pressure should be over 60-70 psi. Sure enough, my water pressure is around 85-90 psi.


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## sig

fury165 said:


> Was this question for me Sig? My unit has a clear body on the first chamber, this is the one I use to gauge when to change the filters anyway.
> 
> I looked at the site and you can custom build your RODI unit, and if you want all clear housings it will cost $4.00 more ��
> 
> No, I don't have a booster pump, when I was purchasing the unit I wanted one but he told me I didn't need it in the GTA since the water pressure should be over 60-70 psi. Sure enough, my water pressure is around 85-90 psi.


Thank you for replay. I do need the pump.
I should visit them

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## blunthead

i have a brand new vertex 100gpd i wanna sell
i dont need a booster pump because my water pressure is well over 100psi
i have to turn the tap down because my pressure gauge goes past 100
even with my dual membrane brs unit.
i want $330 cash for it if anyones interested


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## CamH

Is there a storage container that anyone recommends? I was thinking of just filling up 3-4 water cooler jugs the day before a water change, adding salt and packing the unit away until needed again.


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## CanadaCorals.com

CamH said:


> Is there a storage container that anyone recommends? I was thinking of just filling up 3-4 water cooler jugs the day before a water change, adding salt and packing the unit away until needed again.


Most people use Rubbermaid Brute trash bins.

They are available in different sizes and are made of food grade plastic that wont leach so they are reef safe.

You can also get optional casters to wheel them around.


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## sig

CamH said:


> Is there a storage container that anyone recommends? I was thinking of just filling up 3-4 water cooler jugs the day before a water change, adding salt and packing the unit away until needed again.


you will need water daily because of the evaporation and to maintain constant salinity level

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## fury165

Sig is correct you will need fresh water daily to top up - but keep in mind that if you need fresh RODI water it will take some time to produce. Also, you don't want to be running the RODI for small amounts as it will shorten the life of the resin - for optimal performance it is best to run the unit longer periods. I make around 40 gallons at a time 20 for RODI and 20 for salt water, and store it for 2 weeks. 

Personally I'd plan on having 10 - 20% of your total system volume on hand for daily top ups and emergencies. Keep the container clean and covered and the water will be fine.


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## fury165

I went through a lot of containers before I settled on these puppies - 20 gallons each


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## CamH

I looked at the Brute containers @ Home Depot and a plan is forming. Feel free to pick away at it:

Use 30G Brute container for storage and run an ATO system for evaporation. I could just top up the water myself but I'm going away for 2 weeks in the summer so I'll need one then anyway so I might as well get one now. When its time for a water change, I'll put aside what water I dont need, mix the salt in the 30G Brute container and do the waterchange. Rinse out the Brute with RO/DI water, refill with fresh RO/DI water and start the topup cyle. Repeat every 2 weeks or as needed. It's a 90G tank and the RO/DI unit I'll get is 100GPD. Havent settled on the amount of water I'll be changing.

P.S. @ fury165 thanks for joining the conversation and posting the pic!


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## altcharacter

My opinion on saltwater tanks, so take it for what it is:

To me, the most important piece of equipment in a reef tank is my controller. I own a DA Reefkeeper Lite and it does the job very well. In the future I'll be upgrading to an Apex but for now I can control my lights, ATO, heater, and fuge light. The automation is such a time saver and I don't know how I could live without it.

Second piece I couldn't live without is my ATO. I use to fill my tank everyday by hand and never realized how much of a disaster it can be if you forget to top up or put in the wrong amount. I have a 4 gallon rubbermaid container in my ottoman next to my tank and even that is too small. In the future I'll be upgrading to something in the 10 gallon range but I have to find the right ottoman to fit it.

Last piece that is super important is a super quiet skimmer!


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## fury165

My pleasure, sometimes seeing what others do can help me formulate my own solutions .

Alt's post triggered my memory on a smaller solution that I use for my frag tank. I use a tunze Osmolator and this 5 gallon carboy - simple and cheap, it services my ~30 gallon frag setup for a week

http://www.uline.ca/Product/Detail/S-12768/Jugs/5-Gallon-Carboy

The top has a spigot and a bung type fitting, I just used the bung fitting and drilled holes formate wires and cords


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## CamH

altcharacter said:


> Last piece that is super important is a super quiet skimmer!


So far the Reef Octopus BH-2000 is my choice. Absolutely no room for a sump so HOB it is. Not sure if its super quiet. Like all the HOB skimmers I've looked into there always some who says its great and quiet and others who say it's noisy even after break in period.


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## CamH

fury165 said:


> . I use a tunze Osmolator and this 5 gallon carboy - simple and cheap, it services my ~30 gallon frag setup for a week


How does this compare to the JBJ ATO?


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## fury165

CamH said:


> How does this compare to the JBJ ATO?


IMHO the Tunze is more accurate and reliable.


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## sig

CamH said:


> Absolutely no room for a sump so HOB it is. .


are you sure you know what are you talking about 

I am just starting make another build. Will post link later in marine photography later.

Do not do mistake and waste money (go without the sump). Do you know that HOB equipment sometimes run gallons of salt water on the floor?

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## CamH

sig said:


> are you sure you know what are you talking about
> 
> I am just starting make another build. Will post link later in marine photography later.
> 
> Do not do mistake and waste money (go without the sump). Do you know that HOB equipment sometimes run gallons of salt water on the floor?


Look forward to the pics! My stand is 49" wide and divided into 3 sections so I'm positive there's no room for a sump. I've not heard of HOB skimmers running water onto the floor. At least not in any reviews I've read.


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## sig

CamH said:


> . I've not heard of HOB skimmers running water onto the floor. At least not in any reviews I've read.


I see, good luck 

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## CamH

Now that I've looked, I've found a few threads on other forums discussing HOB skimmers overflowing. I'll have to look into a float valve setup.

The research never ends!


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## sig

CamH said:


> Now that I've looked, I've found a few threads on other forums discussing HOB skimmers overflowing. I'll have to look into a float valve setup.
> 
> The research never ends!


try to read more, before you buy, make something. 
You will also need HOB ( I suggest) carbon/gfo reactors, etc.

Skimmer has nothing to do with the float valve set up. You probably can add this part to the skimmer, but your tank will look very ugly
When HOB skimmer overflows, it will run water from the cap to the floor and at the same time will suck more water from the tank. I have no experience with HOB you plan to buy, but Octopus sensitive to the chemistry changes and water level. For sure it should have drainage line and you can run hose from the cap to the basket. Why do not have a sump and replace the stand. It will take few hours to make.
Skimmer could just decide to overflow due to the several factors and even when you put something in the tank that changes chemistry. My previous Reef Octopus (in sump) was hating putty, which we use to attach corals.

I am starting thread in Marine Photography. Nothing fancy, but functional. Hopefully it will help

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## CamH

sig said:


> Why do not have a sump and replace the stand. It will take few hours to make


The problem is that i don't want to take the chance of cracking my tank getting it drilled. Big sticker at the bottom of the tank warning not to drill as the glass is tempered.


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## altcharacter

99% of the time when freshwater guys switch to saltwater they are full of "no I don't want to do that."

When I first started I had an 8g tank that I was very happy with but unfortunately the tank wasn't that happy. Then I upgraded to a 20g with a sump and the tank was happier. Four years later I now have a 50g bottom drilled tank with a 20g sump and my tank is very happy!

A sump is a very good idea for more than what you think. You can also ask any owner out there that doesn't have a sump and they'll tell you they want a sump.

HOB is a very bad idea! Not to say that you can't do it or it can't be done but it's your choice.

Myself, I would never go back to just a DT


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## fury165

CamH said:


> The problem is that i don't want to take the chance of cracking my tank getting it drilled. Big sticker at the bottom of the tank warning not to drill as the glass is tempered.


The whole tank is tempered or just the bottom?


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## CamH

fury165 said:


> The whole tank is tempered or just the bottom?


I think just the bottom. That's the only place a sticker was warning against drilling


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## fury165

CamH said:


> I think just the bottom. That's the only place a sticker was warning against drilling


Then you can drill the back or sides for your overflow. You have a few options, this is what I used for my frag tank - low profile, simple and easy to implement once you drill the hole.

http://www.glass-holes.com/Super-Nano-con-Dientes-Overflow-Box-Complete-Kit-ghsndienteskit.htm

Here is a better set of pictures...man they suck at product pictures lol

http://www.glass-holes.com/700-gph-Overflow-Box-Complete-Kit-gh700kit.htm

And this is how it is installed


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## CamH

WOW! What timing! I just watched a video whereby a guy did the same thing and little lights started going on in my head. Now reconsidering a sump. I looked into buying a new tank with predrilled holes but that's adding $400 onto my costs. So this overflow box idea seems like the thing to do


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## fury165

CamH said:


> WOW! What timing! I just watched a video whereby a guy did the same thing and little lights started going on in my head. Now reconsidering a sump. I looked into buying a new tank with predrilled holes but that's adding $400 onto my costs. So this overflow box idea seems like the thing to do


Yes, it can be cost effective, be sure to get the right size. nice thing is that it is low profile and disappears if you are planning on painting the back of the tank black. The other thing is that you can reuse it on another tank if you decide to upgrade lol.


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## imy112

Hey all, I am so sorry to have hijacked this post but I am in the same perdicament and debating between 3 RODI Unts, some which have already been mentioned... i will be buying one this week and would love to have people opinion on which one I should go for.

1. http://www.aquasafecanada.com/products/aquarium-ii-rodi-system.html

2. https://maxwaterflow.3dcartstores.c...gpd-pure-0-ppm-ro-di-water-filter_p_924.html#

3. http://www.advancedreefaquatics.ca/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=669

Thanks in advance for your help


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## blunthead

id say go the vertex 100%
id stay away from the cheaper brands
vertex has a glycyrin filled pressure gauge which is nice
i would add a dual tds and run it before and after di to monitor efficiency and time for cartridge replacement
not sure if that unit comes with a membrane back flush but thats nice to have to extend the life of the membrane.
i also added a 3 way valve before di to dump the backflush water to help extend the life of the di resin


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## imy112

blunthead said:


> id say go the vertex 100%
> id stay away from the cheaper brands
> vertex has a glycyrin filled pressure gauge which is nice
> i would add a dual tds and run it before and after di to monitor efficiency and time for cartridge replacement
> not sure if that unit comes with a membrane back flush but thats nice to have to extend the life of the membrane.
> i also added a 3 way valve before di to dump the backflush water to help extend the life of the di resin


Thanks for the recommendation... I was leaning towards the vertex but then saw the 6-7 stage systems for less and I thought maybe the brand doesn't really make a difference?


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## sig

as you can see Vertex deluxe is just 4 stages. It just proves my words than for aquarium need it is enough. We try to achieve 0.00 PPM and you will get the same 0.00 with 4 stages or 10 stages. the only difference that you will waste more money on prefilters in order to get imaginary clean water and hopefully prolong live of the membrane ($50) for the imaginary,unverifiable period of time.

By getting Unit from Max water, etc and after adding all parts which Vertex has, you will get the same price as a Vertex.
The only question you should answer yourself if you need these parts (pump, pressure gauge)

In my place I need booster pump for example, because pressure in main water line is very low

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## imy112

sig said:


> as you can see Vertex deluxe is just 4 stages. It just proves my words than for aquarium need it is enough. We try to achieve 0.00 PPM and you will get the same 0.00 with 4 stages or 10 stages. the only difference that you will waste more money on prefilters in order to get imaginary clean water and hopefully prolong live of the membrane ($50) for the imaginary,unverifiable period of time.
> 
> By getting Unit from Max water, etc and after adding all parts which Vertex has, you will get the same price as a Vertex.
> The only question you should answer yourself if you need these parts (pump, pressure gauge)
> 
> In my place I need booster pump for example, because pressure in main water line is very low


Hey Sig, thanks for the thought on 4 vs 6-7stage units. I guess I would agree, I was looking it at it from a value(band for your buck) stand point, but I see now in the long run it would end up costing more to replace more prefilters...

Don't need a booster pump as I live in the city and get over 70psi a pressure gauge is a nice to have but I do think tds meter would be important to test water quality over time.


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## sig

get this one. later you can upgrade to any GHP >> 100 >>> 200. It depends on the size (not physical) of the membrane. It also has few parts, which you probably will need later.

https://maxwaterflow.3dcartstores.c...e-osmosis-system-float-valve-ro-di_p_396.html

and get TDS meter

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/LCD-Digital-...446866?pt=US_Garden_Tools&hash=item3aa00f17d2

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## Reef Hero

fury165 said:


> Max Water is open to the public and I have been using their 75gpd unit For drinking water and RODI for the past four years. ONLY THING I changed was the supplied Horizontal DI canister to a standard vertical canister since the vertical flow is more efficient. These units are universal and you can buy other brand filters elsewhere if you like.
> 
> Also note that the 75gpd membrane is the sweet spot with respect to the rejection rate for most membranes - 98% (75GPD membrane) vs 96% (100GPD Membrane).
> 
> If you want to increase your GPD and reduce your waste water you should look into the Bulk Reef Supply's 150 GPD upgrade kit which essentially is two 75 GPD membranes installed sequentially and reduces the waste water by 50%.


I tell everyone to buy a 75gpd unless they absolutely need more.... Most ppl don't know about the rejection rate....

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Reef Hero

imy112 said:


> Thanks for the recommendation... I was leaning towards the vertex but then saw the 6-7 stage systems for less and I thought maybe the brand doesn't really make a difference?





blunthead said:


> id say go the vertex 100%
> 
> id stay away from the cheaper brands
> 
> vertex has a glycyrin filled pressure gauge which is nice
> 
> i would add a dual tds and run it before and after di to monitor efficiency and time for cartridge replacement
> 
> not sure if that unit comes with a membrane back flush but thats nice to have to extend the life of the membrane.
> 
> i also added a 3 way valve before di to dump the backflush water to help extend the life of the di resin


I'd stay clear of anything vertex.... Their rodi units are a joke IMO.... 
All their engineering is spent on packaging and marketing.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## imy112

Noticing that some of these unit dont come with a faucet adaptor like the BRS ones do. Is it easy enough to find a faucet connector so i dont necessarily have to install under the sink.... thoughts?


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## wchen9

I know Maxwaterflow sells a faucet adapter. I got a hose adapter from them and I Tee mine off my washer line.


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