# Question regarding my Fishless-Cycle;



## OneLastDecree (Nov 13, 2012)

So; I am on day ten of my cycle. 
The following picture shows my daily log.

As you can see; my Nitrite [NO2] have been very high for the past two days. 
It is to the point where I can not tell what the exact reading is.

*My question is;*

Should I do a PWC to decrease the level of NO2.
If yes, how much.

Should I just leave the NO2 to grow so my Nitrate [NO3] have more to consume and grow.

Just using common sense and my limited knowledge of the cycle; I would think that leaving the NO2 to rise will give more 'food' to NO3.
In turn, decrease the time it takes to fully cycle my tank.

Thanks again for your time.

*Note: *
Disregard the additional information found on excel spreadsheet; I am cycling two tanks right now. 
My 20G Long and 20G High.

The " - " in the designated cells mean I did not perform the test for the respective bacteria/information.


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## Darkblade48 (Jan 28, 2008)

I am confused; do you want us to take a look at the spreadsheet or not?

You say that your numbers are high, but then say to disregard the spreadsheet? 

What exactly are your nitrite levels?


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## pyrrolin (Jan 11, 2012)

If you are going to keep a detailed record, which is great to do btw, you need to record what the levels were at each testing for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate.

I do believe, but don't quote me on this, that sometimes nitrites go totally out of wack when cycling and it stalls the cycling process. I believe I remember someone saying to do a large water change to help reset this.

Also, if you are doing a fishless cycle, what is your source of ammonia and how much are you doing and how often? The experts who can really help you are going to want to know this stuff.

Another way to cycle a new tank is to get used bio media from another tank, another of your own or from someone else. I have cycled tanks in under a week by seeding with used bio media. You are mostly safe to put a small number of fish in right away with seeding

Another way to cycle a tank is by putting in "junk" fish for your ammonia source. I used feeder guppies to help cycle and maintain a tank recently to go with my seeding of used bio media until I decide what I want to put in the tank for normal stock. I ended up using this tank as a plant hospital and have left the guppies in there to keep the cycle active and to provide nitrates for the plants. And I swear guppies are born pregnant.


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## mantiz (Oct 14, 2012)

Just an FYI but there is one way to measure the off the charts nitrItes,(I may be wrong about this):

If you are using the API liquid test kit, use 2, 3 or 4 times the amount of liquid being tested and keep the normal amount of drops you would normally use. Then multiply the numbers you get from the color chart. 

I just finished cycling a 65g and that is what I did to see if my nitrItes were dropping (I had to use 4 times the amount of liquid).


Sent from my BlackBerry 9900 using Tapatalk


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## Zebrapl3co (Mar 29, 2006)

YES, you are on the correct track. Please do a PWC of about 10%-20%. The idea is to get a balance tank, not an off the chart tank with too much of one of two types of bacteria. If that happens, there will be a massive bacteria die off when you move to adding fish and stop adding chemicals; or what ever was your ammonia source. I hope it is not fish food too; which is another bad way to start a tank. Anyway, back to the topic. When the bacteria die off, it will decompose and cause multiple mini cycle. This just drags on until your tank balance itself. Hence prologing your initial cycling process.

Also, I applaud you for choosing the fishless cycle method. We should stop using the barbaric method of performing sacrificial kill of a life to make a tank livable. There are better methods like taking a piss into your tank to seed it with bacteria and traces of ammonia. Although you probably won't like the smell of your tank though.

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## OneLastDecree (Nov 13, 2012)

Hello everyone;

Sorry, i just noticed the picture I uploaded is very hard to see. 
I will upload another picture of my daily log. 

Additional information that may be noted; 

I am using 'Old Country Ammonia'.
1 ML dose brings my 20 G to 4.00 PPM.


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## OneLastDecree (Nov 13, 2012)

Attachment didn't work that time. 
Here it is. 

Just tested the water again today; as you can see. 
Nitrites are through the roof; Nitrates are not changing and staying at the same level as before. 
Will do a PWC to reduce the level tomorrow. 

Just added ammonia into the tank.


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## Zebrapl3co (Mar 29, 2006)

Well, the high ph of 8 is probably why your nitrite are off the chart. I don't know if I am reading your chart propertly. But if you are getting high nitrate. Your cycle have completed, it's first round. You should stop adding ammonia and you need to make a 50% water change to reset the tank. On the next day do another 50% water change. On the third day, you should run all 3 tests again. If you are getting very low readings. You can add fish on the fourth day. Don't over do it. Add a few, let them go for a few days to 1 week. Then add a few more.
If you are getting high - medium readings. You need to add about 1/5 of the ammonia and let the tank run for a few more days (2 - 3). Your ultimate goal is to get very low ammonia/ very low nitrite/ and any amount of nitrate (preferable not more that 40 ppm). If you reach this point. Do a %50 water change, wait for 24 hrs and test it again. The nitrate should be low. If it stays consistently low for all 3 tests. You can add a few fish in the next day.

But looking at your title and your ph 8. I am not sure why you are geting such a high ph. Our tab water only goes up as high as 7.8 pH. Usually, it's 7.6 pH. So you need to find out why you are getting a pH 8 reading. Ammazonia black water is pH 6.2 - 5.8. You need to fix this problem first. Otherwise, none of the Amazon fish will live in this tank for long.

Also, I read about your plant thread, just want to let you know that adding a plant into a tank that is cycling can bump you ahead of the cycling process for 3 or 4 days. So you might end up completing your cycling earlier than you think.

Good luck,

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## OneLastDecree (Nov 13, 2012)

Thanks for the reply; 
I will do a water change and test again. 

The API Test Kit is really hard to tell sometimes because of the color differences. 
So, I always round up to be safe. 

My tank has no decorations in it. Just the Silica Sand. 
I was going to add decorations into the tank after the cycle has been completed. 
I am going to add Driftwood, Peat Moss, and other natural pH adjusters to bring my pH down to 6.5. 
I am going to avoid using chemicals to bring the pH down though. 

I didn't know we could add plants into a cycling tank. 
I heard it slowed down the process on a different forum I lurk. 
So, my plants are in my Quarantine Tank right now.

I guess, I'll move them over. 

Thanks!


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## Mlevi (Jan 28, 2012)

OneLastDecree said:


> I didn't know we could add plants into a cycling tank.
> I heard it slowed down the process on a different forum I lurk.
> So, my plants are in my Quarantine Tank right now.


Just my opinion, but I wouldn't put any plants in a cycling tank...especially one with a sand substrate. The logic would be you want to keep as few 'variables' as possible ie. factors affecting your cycling.

When I did my fishless cycle for my first two tanks simultaneously (and you only need this once, coz after that, u take the material from that tank and introduce it to your next tank..), I used an online 'ammonia calculator', and also compared my readings against the 'typically expected results'... ammonia spike...nitrite spike...nitrate spike. Even then, my one tank cycled in 3 weeks, while my other tank, following the same process, went straight from ammonia spike to nitrate spike. I had to do a 50% water change, and step back a li'l. It took 6-7 weeks for that tank.

Guess what I'm tryin' to say is, even without any other influences (like plants, driftwood etc), cycling is still not an exact science. Why introduce an extra factor that could have an impact on the results? As per Diana Walstad, plants take in the 'N' from 'NH3' first, if available, rather than from 'NO3'. That, in itself, would have an impact on the cycling.

Just my personal opinion.

Al.


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## solarz (Aug 31, 2010)

Eh, you guys make this way more complicated than it needs to be.

The only thing you need to know is, if you can detect it, then the bacteria are feeding on it.

By all means, put in plants. First, you add ammonia. Then you wait until you see a nitrite spike. Then you wait until the nitrite is gone. Now your tank is cycled.


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## pyrrolin (Jan 11, 2012)

Solarz has it right for the most part, give ammonia source, wait for nitrite spike, wait for nitrite to be 0 and done.

Adding plants should help, they usually have good bacteria on them to speed up the process


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## OneLastDecree (Nov 13, 2012)

Mlevi said:


> Just my opinion, but I wouldn't put any plants in a cycling tank...especially one with a sand substrate. The logic would be you want to keep as few 'variables' as possible ie. factors affecting your cycling.
> 
> When I did my fishless cycle for my first two tanks simultaneously (and you only need this once, coz after that, u take the material from that tank and introduce it to your next tank..), I used an online 'ammonia calculator', and also compared my readings against the 'typically expected results'... ammonia spike...nitrite spike...nitrate spike. Even then, my one tank cycled in 3 weeks, while my other tank, following the same process, went straight from ammonia spike to nitrate spike. I had to do a 50% water change, and step back a li'l. It took 6-7 weeks for that tank.
> 
> ...


I read that on some other forum that I mentioned. 
I didn't put in the plants yet. 
However, My tank is almost cycled so I'll just wait it out. 
I'm still deciding on my livestock so it should be fine.


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## pyrrolin (Jan 11, 2012)

Be sure to check nitrates once cycled in case they are too high, if they are high, do a water change.


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## OneLastDecree (Nov 13, 2012)

Yes sir. 
I am looking out for that as well.


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