# CO2 beer fridge



## daking (Mar 6, 2008)

Well i won a beer fridge years and years ago. It came with the CO2 cylinder (i think its co2). I have not used it for beer in about 5 years. I know the tank is still holding full. It has a regulator on the top that can be finely adjusted. Other than a reactor in the tank, what else do I need to get this running in the tank (cant really afford keg replacements as we all know it will happen numerous times!)


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## Darkblade48 (Jan 28, 2008)

Since you have the CO2 tank as well as regulator, all that you really need now is a needle valve (the regulator will let you control the CO2 down to a certain point, but the needle valve will allow much finer control). 

Other than that, a reactor is pretty much optional (there are other "free" ways to dissolve CO2 into your water). You could also consider getting a solenoid if you want to put your CO2 on a timer (or, if you're feeling rich, you could hook up the solenoid to a pH meter).


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## daking (Mar 6, 2008)

Darkblade48 said:


> Since you have the CO2 tank as well as regulator, all that you really need now is a needle valve (the regulator will let you control the CO2 down to a certain point, but the needle valve will allow much finer control).
> 
> Other than that, a reactor is pretty much optional (there are other "free" ways to dissolve CO2 into your water). You could also consider getting a solenoid if you want to put your CO2 on a timer (or, if you're feeling rich, you could hook up the solenoid to a pH meter).


the last part about a solenoid and ph meter... kind of lost me... if its on a timer, and the timer turns back on in the a.m., would there not be a pressure build up? is there any place to get a needle valve other than the 90 bucks or so at Big Als?


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## Darkblade48 (Jan 28, 2008)

daking said:


> the last part about a solenoid and ph meter... kind of lost me... if its on a timer, and the timer turns back on in the a.m., would there not be a pressure build up? is there any place to get a needle valve other than the 90 bucks or so at Big Als?


Essentially, the solenoid acts as an "on/off" switch that can be controlled electronically. There won't be a pressure build up if you use it.

By hooking it up to a timer, when the timer cuts the power to the solenoid, the solenoid closes and no more CO2 comes out. When the timer provides power again, the solenoid opens, and CO2 will come out.

With a pH meter (a pricey piece of equipment, I might add), when a certain pH is reached, it will tell the solenoid to close, and thus no more CO2 is released. When the pH rises above a certain point again, the pH meter tells the solenoid to open, and CO2 is released again (driving the pH down).

As for needle valves, there are lots of sources. Rex Grigg has some good ones, I think Sumo also provides needle valves.


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## daking (Mar 6, 2008)

wow, all new news to me.. a man can dream!


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## zenkeri (Jan 17, 2009)

*caution on regulator!*

Hi Daking: I also used a beer keg cylinder and regulator before it works fine but be warned, as the cylinder empties the pressure changes and sometimes the regulator lets out a lot of C02, as the valve control that came w/ the regulator is very coarse, had it happened to me while I was away for the weekend, came home to 85% dead fish as they suffocated w/ excess C02. I then purchased a solenoid valve thinking this should solve the problem. It was connected to a timer so w/ power is on, w/0 power the solenoid shuts off. Still I had another incident of fish kill, apparently solenoids do get stuck in the on position once in a while. The cure is to open it and clean, also rub a very light layer of oil on it. I do this every six months and have not had a problem since. It it very simple to take it apart, 1 nut and a couple of screws. Inside there is a piston w/ an o ring and a spring. The electrical parts are separate, basically an electromagnet. I now have it hooked up to a Ph monitor. Hope this helps wouldn't want to see anyone go through what I did.


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