# How not to be successful in shrimp breeding/keeping



## randy (Jan 29, 2012)

You must have read many posts, blogs, articles about how to keep/breed bee shrimps (CRS/CBS/Golden/TBs). I have too, and most of them are very well written with all the general rules. Over the short period of time I've kept shrimps, I've met with setbacks, I've net many dead shrimps, but slowly they are doing better and better to the point I really think keeping and breeding these shrimps doesn't need to be difficult. A few hobbyists (including members on this forum) are in constant communication with me to talk about shrimp keeping. This although takes a lot of my time, I thoroughly enjoy it.

Anyway, I don't think I will give you many things that you haven't read online, so I'll try it from a different angle. All is up for discussion.

So, what are the common issues I've seen while working with others and from my own experience (i.e. how not to be successful). I know there are always exceptions, but these are the things that I've recommended people to change and got good results.

1. Bad choice of substrate
I know there are many choices, find one that works for you and stick with it. Experiment with new choices before committing the change. I only use ADA Amazonia now, although I wouldn't hesitate to set up another tank with Netlea either.

2. Use tap water
I know many have good results with tap water but many don't (me included). I'm not saying tap water definitely won't work, it just adds more variables to your result. I only use re-mineralized RO now.

3. Not enough water flow
If you drop some powder type shrimp food or additives in the tank, you should not see them fall in a straight line to the bottom anywhere in the tank including the corners. I have a tank where shrimps (wine red) having a hard time grabbing on the bottom, but they do just fine. 
See this link: 



Pay attention to the one on the far side in the back, the current is so strong that shrimp had a hard time trying to move to the right. The food in the middle is in the only more static area in the tank, so all dirty stuff gathers there (there's still current there) and which makes it very easy to clean this tank too.

4. Too much scaping
This directly affects water flow. I have to say I had a tank with 70%+ of moss, and breeding was okay in that tank. But most of my other attempts to have lots of plants and other things in tank normally ends up as a tank that's hard to maintain and less consistent condition (breeding/growing). It's hard to find a balance but I find the simpler the better. In a 15G I now only add a small patch of moss and some floaters, maybe one or two stems of rooted fast growing plants. (note: if breeding is not the main purpose, then it's perfectly fine to scape your tank anyway you want, shrimps will still breed and grow up, just not as optimal)

5. Stick your hands in the tank
I make this #5 but it could easily become #1. Anything that requires you sticking your hands in the tank should be done before the shrimps are added to it.

6. Changing water parameters
Once you have formed your water change scheme, stop testing PH/GH. It will do you more good than harm if you don't test those. Let the shrimps tell you how your water is. I test only TDS maybe weekly to make sure nothing terrible is going on in the tank. Maybe I'll test NO3 once per month. Again, shrimps tell you more than the test kits.

This tank has NO3 over 60 now, for those who bought the golden from me in the last few months I hope you didn't faint if you tested for NO3 in the water. Link to this high NO3 tank: 




I have successfully kept/bred crystal shrimps in GH from 3 to 8, being stable is more important than the absolute reading.

7. Feeding too much
For the tank in the link above in #6, for about 400 shrimps in a 10 G tank, I feed 5 times a week, each time I give them a small piece (about 8mm long stick) or a 6cmx6cm blanched spinach. They are always hungry but always very active. They at almost all the moss in the tank, and frogbit can't grow large in that tank because the roots would be eaten before they can grow to any length. What I'm trying to say with this example is that -- it is VERY hard to starve your shrimps to death. I've killed many shrimps but I doubt any of them die of starvation.

8. Not properly cycle a tank
Using any helpful additive is always optional (odd to say because I actually sell some that I use), but you just can't rush the proper cycle. I set up 15 tanks in my new shrimps room in mid July, 3 of them cycled within 3 weeks, most others about 5-6 weeks, and one is still not cycled (2.5 months after it was set up). They were all set up the same way with the same (type and amount) substrate (with different additive for experiment), I have no idea why that tank is still not cycled but I'm being very patient with it. I have seen just too many failures when introducing shrimps in tanks that aren't ready. You may eventually save your shrimps but they just won't be the same anymore.

Okay, that's it for now, if I think of anything else I'll add to it. If you find anything I have missed, feel free to reply. I don't take insult when I'm corrected, it only means I learn something new which is always a good thing.


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## cape (Jun 18, 2010)

Excellent post Randy. Have heard most of these rules first hand from you but always good to have a reminder. 

Pretty sure it will be helpful to other members.


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## Symplicity (Oct 14, 2011)

When you do a W/C do you match TDS or do you match GH... 

Im wondering cuz my Tank has a GH of 6 with a TDS of 180... but 
my RO water remineralized has a TDS of 120 with a GH of 5-6... 

Should I match GH or TDS when W/C... I want to keep my GH around 5-6 but dont want a massive TDS drop or a massive GH drop.... uhhhhh.

W/Cs have always been tricky for me lol.


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## shrimpzoo (Jan 15, 2012)

Implementing CO2 or using products that force early molts for the sake of breeding excessively often messes newbies up.


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## randy (Jan 29, 2012)

shrimpzoo said:


> Implementing CO2 or using products that force early molts for the sake of breeding excessively often messes newbies up.


Totally agree with you on this one. CO2 is a controversial topic, some Asian breeders use it but most don't. It can work but very tricky.

Breeding aid is another thing, some have good result some had shrimps killed.


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## randy (Jan 29, 2012)

Symplicity said:


> When you do a W/C do you match TDS or do you match GH...
> 
> Im wondering cuz my Tank has a GH of 6 with a TDS of 180... but
> my RO water remineralized has a TDS of 120 with a GH of 5-6...
> ...


When I do my first ~100% water change after the tank is cycled, I use RO with Salty Shrimp GH+ to adjust the water to about TDS 100, that's when the GH would be around 5-6. Since I only use RO with this product, when I do WC, I adjust the TDS to about 90-95 because I know the GH would be in the target range.

Doing it this way, I don't worry about GH/TDS when doing WCs. That said, it doesn't mean my tank water is always at TDS 100. Some goes up to 120, some around 90, it is caused by what's in the tank. As long as the water goes in is stable, eventually the tank water will be stable too, where-ever the parameters land.

I'm also experimenting with a new product (for trace element) which adds a bit of TDS. This is my version of SMW if you know what that is. SMW is a great product to use, the only problem is that it's too expensive. Since it's still in experimenting stage, I will keep more details until I'm happy with how it works.


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