# Diy ato



## altcharacter (Jan 10, 2011)

Ok so I'll put this here for the guys trying to make thier own ATO system. First and foremost I should say that you take a bit of risk by making it yourself instead of buying one. This is a single float system that will allow for your pump to fill a designated area to a desired level of water.

The things you'll need.
1) a pump of some sort, preferably small and quiet
2) a container to put the water that will eventually go into the system, preferably food grade...actually...make sure it's food grade you cheapass! 
3) 2-4 feet of vinyl tubing that fits your pump...or whatever length you desire but the shorter the better.
4) float switch

I'll link what I'm using as a reference for you guys and I actually drew a picture with paint. Please leave my grade 4 drawing skills alone 

Pump
Koralia pico Evolution 400
http://www.hydor.it/index.php/prodotti/show/famprod/18/list/6#tabelle
Float Switch
I'm using this exact one from MOPS.ca (free plug)
http://www.aquariumsupplies.ca/float-switch-sensor-p-1506.html


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## altcharacter (Jan 10, 2011)

Here's the pic I drew


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## altcharacter (Jan 10, 2011)

So if you look at the picture you'll see that the pump should be in the water reservoir but for drawing purposes I put it outside. 

What you'll need to do is take one of the wires on the power cord for the pump and cut it. You're only going to cut one of the wires and not both. What you want to do is interrupt the power. Then you are going to solder the float switch to the cut wire so when the float switch bottoms out, it will trigger and feed current to the pump. This is very simple electrical that anyone can do. Think of how a light switch works...this is the same process.

Once you've soldered the wires together make sure you protect the bare wires somehow by either wrapping the joints in electrical tape (not suggested) or before you solder put on some shrink wrap so you can seal the joint later (suggested).

Pump goes in the reservoir, hook up your vinyl tube to the pump and place it above the water line in your filling area. If you put it below the line then it will produce a syphon and you'll either get all your water from the reservoir in your filling area or vice versa. My suggestion is you place your reservoir at the same level or a bit lower than your sump/fuge that you are filling into so you don't have a syphon (found this out the hard way)

The only thing I didn't show you guys is the bracket I made out of some plexi to hold the float switch. You'll either need to get one made by J_T (suggested) or make one yourself when you get drunk (what I did)

If you have any questions about this give me a shout, I'll try to take more pics of what my setup looks like but i'm a bit lazy atm


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## nfamusic (Dec 19, 2012)

great post, if you added another float and wire it normally closed you could use it as a fail safe to set max sump level if for what ever reason the pump float stuck in the on position


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## altcharacter (Jan 10, 2011)

Yep, i've always thought of doing that but this float that MOPS sells is very loose so it doesn't seem like it would get stuck. Although it was stuck once, but that was my fault due to it being right smack dab on the glass instead of having a bit of room.

Thanks!


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## sig (Dec 13, 2010)

good idea from the Donut Guru

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## JayPetro (Feb 8, 2012)

Very nice...I did the exact same thing in mine, the first float switch I got was defective and didn't go back to the off position. Contacted mops and they said it was something that is possible (1 in 1000), and sent me a replacement and shipped for free. Very cost friendly way of setting up an ato, thanks for sharing.
Jay


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## liz (Jan 16, 2008)

Awesome write-up and drawing!
How did you make the bracket for the float switch to hang off the sump/tank?
And what wire do you cut on the pump? how do you know which one?


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## wtac (Mar 17, 2006)

I stronly suggest that you wire it through a relay switch or the floats will eventually fry from the current jolt when power goes through it.IIRC aquahub.com has a wiring diagram you can follow.

HTH


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## Nighttrooper (Apr 19, 2011)

wtac said:


> I stronly suggest that you wire it through a relay switch or the floats will eventually fry from the current jolt when power goes through it.IIRC aquahub.com has a wiring diagram you can follow.
> 
> HTH


i agree. 120vac float switch= death


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## altcharacter (Jan 10, 2011)

Well it's been in my sump for a year or so with no problems at all and the float switch is rated up to 300VAC and 70w. Also, lets say the switch dies after 3 years. Replace it with another switch that costs $7.66. We're not talking about making a die hard, proven to withstand a nuclear war, badass type of ATO. We're talking about a cheap alternative to something that usually runs 20 times what this systems costs. If you're worried about parts going bad then by all means spend a few bucks to regulate the voltage.

And the bracket I made out of a piece of plexi that I warmed up over my stove and then forming it with a couple of books to the desired shape. You can also warm up the plexi in a toaster oven but you have to make sure you don't burn the piece. I would advise getting J_T to make you a bracket since he's an expert and it would look better.

Once again...that name is J_T


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## wtac (Mar 17, 2006)

At least you know the switch load rating and going by that, you'll be fine.

Most aquarium DIY places don't list the switch mfg-model nor give a load rating therefore use a relay to be on the safe side for the DIY'er. I didn't check the link...on BB.

I personally use a relay for my ATO's that I make for my clients...it gives me that extra peace of mind and minimizes liability .

Forgot...Spiking Voltage and Float Switches


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## TankCla (Dec 31, 2010)

altcharacter said:


> ...If you put it below the line then it will produce a syphon and you'll either get all your water from the reservoir in your filling area or vice versa ...


Maybe you can use a check valve. Might be safer this way .


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## altcharacter (Jan 10, 2011)

I was talking to a few people about a check valve and every one of them said it's a bad idea for the simple fact that they can get buildup inside of the valve and clog it. So it defeats the purpose of having the valve if it won't completely close.


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## RoyalAquariums (Jun 11, 2012)

In my experiences, I made my own DIY in the past with 24v power supply, relay and the same float switch. I then used it to control a stainless solenoid valve that was plumbed off my RO system. It worked great for months until the float failed and turned my saltwater tank into a brackish tank. Since this bad experience I'm using a simple bubble magus mechanical float valve and it has worked flawlessly. 

I encourage people to do DIY projects but beware that these float switches eventually will fail. It would be a good idea to routinely clean them and switch them out with a new one every so often. Another idea would be to wire two of them in series so if one fails the other one will break the circuit.

One other point is that it is more convenient to control a valve off your RO line instead of a pump in a RO reservoir. Will take up less space and you won't have to fill up the fresh RO container when it goes empty, great for holidays in the summer


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## altcharacter (Jan 10, 2011)

Sorry I'm going to have to disagree with the RO line, when valve's fail they tend to fail in the ON position...not the off position. So when you take your vacation you'll have a great time coming back to a house full of RO water. Also the seal on a valve will definitely get clogged and in time deteriorate and eventually fail...another water problem.

This thread was intended for a cheaper alternative to a store bought item that works...but might not work as well as something bought in a store. If you intend to criticize the idea of this thread then please open your own thread and tell us how you made yours. Unfortunately I haven't found any threads in the recent past that shows how to do a DIY float switch for a ATO. 

All electronics break regardless of how well you make them, and in this case we all know the float switch is going to break...and again...i'll say it...again. The switch is freakin less than $8!!!! 

Oh and one last thing, I've received from two different people Tunze ATO's that have failed so to say that you need "an extra float" or a "different type of float" just proves they all break. 

Thanks and i'm angry at Beyonce!! This is why this post sounds harsh


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## RoyalAquariums (Jun 11, 2012)

Sorry, did not intend to criticize the idea of DIY ato. Just sharing my previous experiences and trying to raise awareness of using a float switch. Mabey I should of been controlling a pump instead of solenoid 

The idea of using more than one float switch in the system would be a great idea.


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## TankCla (Dec 31, 2010)

Just finished my diy ato.
For those who are trying to build one, these are some suggestions:

1. To prevent overflow I used this - AquaClear part - 3.99$









Did a hole with air tube to prevent vacuum inside

2. Cobalt submersible pump - in sale at BA - 31$









Max height - 69" / 1.74 m

3. Bracket - inside the cobalt package you will find some accessories. One of them is very useful. Allows you to do this

























Works perfect

4. Float Switch from mops.ca - 7.99$
Everybody know this

5. Bucket - Home depot - 5$

















6. Electronic timer - dollar store - 2$ (cheap version for Reef Keeper)









Entire system works 3 days a week for just a minute.

Did a few tests and runs smoothly.

And if you don't want to lose the warranty on the pump by cutting the power cord off, do this









Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## altcharacter (Jan 10, 2011)

Yeah that's what I did with my pump Claude. I hacked into a foot switch cord so I wouldn't have to hack into the pump cord. Although mine was soldered into the switch so I didn't have to use any electrical tape.

Nice work on the switch though, and you saved some cash!


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## wildexpressions (May 3, 2010)

some pretty fancy stuff

I have several ATO's running using a couple of designs neither of which are as fancy as that. No switches or wiring or timers or anything like that.

The one use a Maxi-jet/Cobalt 1200, a 20 dollar float valve and some 1/4 inch plastic tubing (like used for to plumb an R/O) and that is a about it.

I hooked the venturi attachment that comes with the maxi-jet on the outlet of the maxi-jet as if I was going to use the maxi-jet in aeration mode, stuck a piece of plumbing on the open end of the venturi tube (where the water exits the pump) to restrict the flow (putting pressure on the return side of the pump) causing water to spray out the venturi hole. I stuck one end of the 1/4 inch line in the venturi hole (it fits perfect) and hooked the other end to the float valve in the aquarium. Dropped the maxi-jet into a bucket of water and Bob's your uncle. Great little pressurized ATO with no spliced wires or relays or any of that stuff. Works very well and literally takes 10 minutes to put together if you have the stuff laying around. I have puched a hole though the buckets lid and run the 1/4 hose threw it and notched the side of the bucket for the power cord to come out allowing me to close the lid on the bucket while it is running. It is just in case the powerhead ends up laying with the outlet spraying straight up out of the bucket while I'm sleeping or something like that

The other type I use is just the gravity fed system feeding a float valve

Both work great.


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## wildexpressions (May 3, 2010)

So I took a couple of pix and as you can see the entire thing is incredibly simple.

My bucket of water that I use as a top off reservoir is 5 gals and has a lid. I drilled a 3/8" hole in the lid and ran the tube thru it and cut a notch in the side to allow the power cord to run out while the lid is closed. I did this as a sort of saftey measure in case it somehow started spraying water straight up out of the bucket while I was not there.

So in this system the pump runs all of the time and works because water takes the path of least resistance. My actual running setup looks exactly like the pictures except I have the 1/4" feed line running out of the venturi rather than out of the pumps return as pictured. They both worked but I found it was quieter with the water feed coming off the venturi.

Doesn't get simpler than that.


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