# sump



## smcx (Mar 31, 2012)

Hey all. I have a couple of smaller (nano) tanks and have been trying to wrap my head around getting working sumps up and going without having to drill. I realize that drilling is the best, and preferred method, and my next tank will be drilled. Prior to going that route, I'd like to toy with doing a DIY overflow.

I was looking at a design like this... please don't make fun of the crude diagram lol. If I did set it up like this, wouldn't there be virtually no chance of a major spill?



thanks!


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## fesso clown (Nov 15, 2011)

So if your syphon breaks from your overflow your return pump has a raised intake and can't push all the sump water into your DT but only to level of the modified height of the pump intake. I have never seen that before but it looks like that would be a good precaution. It looks like your pump will run dry until you notice it but no flood!


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## smcx (Mar 31, 2012)

Yeah I was thinking that a $50 pump burning out would be better than a flood. I have never seen this before either, which is why I'm skeptical of my design. I'm hoping someone sees a flaw. This design can also incorporate an aqualifter to pull the air out of the overflow in case of loss of suction.

Thoughts?


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## fesso clown (Nov 15, 2011)

Yes, replacing the pump would be wayyyyy better. And yes I would strongly suggest using an aqualifter in the overflow. What pump for the return are you planning to use?


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## J_T (Mar 25, 2011)

Float switch on the tank, to shut off the return pump... Less than $50.

Sent from my {HTC X8} using Board Express


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## smcx (Mar 31, 2012)

Yeah, good point. In addition to the plumbing layout. I just don't trust float switches.

Quick question... How does the water level in the DT stay in balance? Return pump speed?

Sean.


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## fesso clown (Nov 15, 2011)

water level is a balancing act between the pump speed (gph) and the overflow (gph) I think you will be working with a syphon GPH which is higher. This link might be useful and has a calculator to determine your rate but you should Google around to see if this is valid calculation for an over the top syphon...

http://www.beananimal.com/articles/hydraulics-for-the-aquarist.aspx


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## altcharacter (Jan 10, 2011)

wait a sec....why don't I get to make fun of the drawing???


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## RR37 (Nov 6, 2012)

I dont think you'll have success with this design. Return pump cavatiting will be a challenge to tune (guessing) 

I think you'd be better off doing it right once. There will be funny changes as your SG swings that change your drain rate. (mine did) 

Get a weir with a lift pump. That's the safest way to go when talking retro fit sump.


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## smcx (Mar 31, 2012)

Got it I think. Just make the volume behind the weir small enough that it won't overflow the main tank right?

Sean.


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## RR37 (Nov 6, 2012)

Yes, Thats the idea, but means you will have a small return pump area.

Personally, I'd buy a 15G and drill it or I'd go after the best weir design you can find. Something that will work as problem free as possible... Like this RLSS box.

Regardless of which way you go backup redundancy is always nice and really helps keeping your floor dry.


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## greg (Apr 29, 2012)

Looking at your initial design I am not sure how you would get suction started in the drain line. Even if you did, every time you lost suction, example due to 5 second power outage, it would not restart.

You would need an extra loop in the drain line to maintain suction. Here is an example from another forum
http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/...automatic-water-change-system-design-diy.html

I've seen this design many times. Its usually used by aquarists doing automatic water changes to remove excess water.

Greg


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