# Testing my tank



## xxxJennyxxx (Oct 11, 2009)

Hiya just another question, I did a 20% water change due to my carbonate being through the roof, it all went good, specific gravity is at 1.023.

I did a quick water test, there, 24 hours later, I just tested my ammonia, Nitrates, Nitrits, pH, Carbonate and chlorine (due to me using a kitched tap)

And I'm just wondering if this is a normal reading?

Ammonia: 0.6
Nitrits: 0
Nitrates: 0

I have normally always gotten some sort of reading for Nitrits and Nitrates, is it only because I changed 20% of the water and it hasn't settled yet? 

And my pH is driving me crazy, no matter what I put into it, It always stays at 7.8, any suggestions? I'm thinking that it could be my pH that could be effecting the tanks cycle, any suggestions in getting it up?

(As for the cyanobacteria, I just got a powerhead to them and are currently gone!)


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## wtac (Mar 17, 2006)

Depending on the pH test kit you are using, ie. Aquarium Pharm pH High Range, interpreting the color development could be the error.

A bit more info on your system and details of equipment will help us help you narrow down a route for to take in order to get you on your way


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## xxxJennyxxx (Oct 11, 2009)

wtac said:


> Depending on the pH test kit you are using, ie. Aquarium Pharm pH High Range, interpreting the color development could be the error.
> 
> A bit more info on your system and details of equipment will help us help you narrow down a route for to take in order to get you on your way


The test kit that I have is giving me the suspicion that it's not all that accuarte, it's a 6 - in - 1 that I got, my ammonia test kit is a seperate one, and I reckon my pH would be much easier to read if I had a similiar one. the 6-in-1 uses a litmus paper type strip, once It's pay day I'm going to go get a more in dept one! I'm looking into getting the Nutrifin mini master test kit.

The tank itself is 60X30X35, 60litre, was going to get the 100litre, but I'll just cope with the smaller one. Well as far as equipment goes, I'm using the elite stingray 15 filter, it's ok, but I'm considering getting an external filter, 100W elite heater, I couldn't tell you much about the light, I think it's a Glo flourescent bulb, I'm hoping to get a different one however, as it's the standard one that came with the tank, going to get a marine one. As for a protiene skimmer, don't have one, will be doing a 10% water change every two weeks or so, the tanks very basic at the moment, live rock (8kg), filter, heater and light.

I hope this give you some sort of indication! Sorry that about the light, my boyfriend who is an electrition knows what type it is, I'll ask him.


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## Big Ray (Dec 8, 2009)

Ure live rocks will take care of maintaining PH, although since u have ammonia in tank, and no nitrate not nitrite, ure tank is still cycling, and the biological bacteria are using the water oxygen leaving H+ ions and making water more acidic. one thing I have noticed in SW and even Fresh Water, is surface skimming, or basically moving the surface of the water which will increase oxygenation and help u maintain the PH, and KH, although they still need supplements (baking powder), as most creatures (even on ure rocks) will use Oxygen and water carbonates. 


I would personally stop the water changes, and let the tank cycle, add more water movement and surface skimming.


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## Big Ray (Dec 8, 2009)

also Cyanobacteria, hmmmm tough one, u have moved it to another area of ure tank where u cant see it, but does not mean they are gone ! always the case sorry to say, 

wait for them to cme back and take ure rock out of the tank in a bucket with some tank water and scrape it off there and discard the water


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## xxxJennyxxx (Oct 11, 2009)

Big Ray said:


> also Cyanobacteria, hmmmm tough one, u have moved it to another area of ure tank where u cant see it, but does not mean they are gone ! always the case sorry to say,
> 
> wait for them to cme back and take ure rock out of the tank in a bucket with some tank water and scrape it off there and discard the water


That's how I dealt with it, I've resigned myself to the fact that I may have to do it again, but What I did was, when I was changing the water, used the water I removed from the tank to give the rocks a good scrub, never seen them so clean haha.

I'm keeping an eye out for it again, I'm almost waiting for it to reappear.


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## xxxJennyxxx (Oct 11, 2009)

I got the nutrafin pH tester (6.0 - 9.0 one), was quite hard to read which annoyed me, but I concluded that the results are around 8 or so, possibly a little lower, I do have pH up and some pH down, but I may refrain to using it if the pH is only a little bit off just yet.

The tank is still cycling, that's true, the water change definitly stirred something up, but I'm in no real hurry to stock the tank, wanna get it right this first time.


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## Big Ray (Dec 8, 2009)

looks good

on a side note, PH is not that important, as long as ure in range of 7.8-8.5 ure fine, stability is important though and that is KH which u should keep at 10 degrees.

I keep rays which need PH of 6.0 in a 8.0 PH freshwater and they are really happy, but its a stable 8.0


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## xxxJennyxxx (Oct 11, 2009)

Big Ray said:


> looks good
> 
> on a side note, PH is not that important, as long as ure in range of 7.8-8.5 ure fine, stability is important though and that is KH which u should keep at 10 degrees.
> 
> I keep rays which need PH of 6.0 in a 8.0 PH freshwater and they are really happy, but its a stable 8.0


My KH is at 10 I do believe, either that or 8 ... I'll be testing for everything tomorrow anyway, pH is currently around 8 now, I'm going to leave it, it's good enough for me!


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