# Co2



## sourandmouldy (Apr 11, 2007)

I'm thinking about trying CO2 in my tank. I have absolutly no experience with it and was wondering if anyone could share some pointers with regard to types of systems, best place to buy one, lighting requirements, plant types, and anything else you may feel is important. It will be set up in my 150gal. 

Thanks in advance

Sam


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## wtac (Mar 17, 2006)

I'm assuming that the 150 dims are ~72"x18"x30"H. Is it sumped?

My recommendation thus far would be:

- 10lb CO2 cylinder
- CO2 Regulator w/bubble counter, needle valve and (optional) solenoid valve. For now avoid the Milwaukee as they've been issues w/them for the past few years.
- AquaMedic 1000 CO2 reactor. Don't bother w/the 500 it's a real PITA to work with and the extra spent on the 1000 is well worth it. You can mount it externally and drive it w/a 300gph rated pump. The friction loss in the plumbing will get it down to 250gph.

Lighting will depend on your plant list and how you want to aquascape. Depending if you are a DIYer, have a canopy, in-wall set-up, open top concept I can better recommend a system.

HTH


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## jrs (Mar 18, 2006)

For a tank that size the initial start up cost to go high tech will be significant. I hope you have a fair bit of.........


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## sourandmouldy (Apr 11, 2007)

You are correct with the tank dimensions, and it isn't sumped. I've done some more research and I was wondering what you're thoughts were on PH controllers, and/or cycling it off at night (with the light timer). I will stay away from the milwaukee, but what about the JBJ? (including needle valve, check valve, solenoid and bubble counter) I've got about 1.6 watts per gallon of light. 

You can see a pic of my tank in the planted tank photo's section (sourandmouldy 150gal).

Since that picture was taken I let my bulbs go for too long and algae started to develop on the plants (they started dying), so I pruned them to within an inch of there lives (removing all algae) and am basically starting over. I would like to have a set up similar to what I had but without using CO2 tablets(they seemed to work well as you can see)

Thanks for all your help

Sam


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## wtac (Mar 17, 2006)

The most cost effective route for the solenoid is to have it plugged into the timer that controlls the light. If you are wanting to have a bit more control and some "eye candy" for the gear head in you, I personally prefer the American Marine PinPoint pH controller. Real easy to set and calibrate as well as very reliable. Not cheap tho...~$300CDN @MOPS, IIRC. 

There are 2 plug interfaces, one to open/close the solenoid and in case the pH drops too low, the second plug controlls an air pump to off gas the extra CO2. A nice feature when the CO2 bottle "dumps" when it's close to being empty. Dumping is when the CO2 literally gushes through the lines. It's a phenomena that is inherent w/compressed gas.

Most will tell you that you don't need a controller. To a degree they are correct but if you aren't familliar w/CO2 gas injection and all the nuances that come along w/it, I suggest that you get the controller just to give you that peace of mind.

Lighting: what kind of lights are they? NO (normal output) FLs, PCs? If they are NOFL's, you can overdrive them w/an IceCap electronic ballast. You will need to install venting fans to deal w/the extra heat.

JBJ as a company is alright. The most important thing is product support. If anything goes wrong, you want a reasonable timeframe for a resolution which means shorter downtime of your system. Stay away from their lighting products tho...LOL!

HTH


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## sourandmouldy (Apr 11, 2007)

Alright, I'm all gassy now. It's been up and running for two days at about 1 bubble per second. I've been testing the water about 3 times per day (no PH controller yet)....and .....not much to speak of (from 6mg/l to 7 mg/l). The partial water change did more to change the KH, PH, and hence the CO2 levels than the CO2 injection has. After much searching I think it's the airstone, it bubbles 24/7 and is quite strong. In your experience, have you found the turbulance from an airstone removes all the added CO2? What's your setup like?

Thanks

Sam

P.S. I'm already overdriving my H.O. FL. lights (thanks for the tip)


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## gucci17 (Oct 11, 2007)

I'm no pro at this whatsoever, I'm just offering an opinion. I just started a pressurize co2 system a few weeks ago. And like you, I'm at just around 1.5 bubble per second. I've been slowly increasing the bps over the last few weeks.

What're you occupants in your tank? Just the arrowana? Sorry, I can't tell, the monitor at work is brutally dark. If you don't really need the o2 then cut it off during the times the co2 is on which is when lights are on. Just set the airpump on another timer to go on at night. I'm sure whatever remaining plants you have will be producing enough o2 now that you have pressurized co2 going. 
From what you're saying about trimming all your plants, it probably doesn't look anything like your pic in the other post right? 
I don't even have my airstone running at all anymore and the fish seem perfectly fine. 
So yeah I'd stay from any water agitation


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## wtac (Mar 17, 2006)

I haven't had a planted set-up for 10 years and live my planted aquarium side vicariously through my clients . Since they are mostly "hands off' the system other than topping up, algae scrubbing, feeding and adding ferts. I just come in and prune, test, calbrate, clean the filters and water change...the dirty work...LOL!

Any surface agitation, combined w/internal water movement, will gass off dissolved CO2. Having and airpump-airstone running while you are using the CO2 system isn't a good idea as you are just gassing off the CO2. Don't worry about the CO2 displacing O2 in that water. It doesn't happen. The critical factor is _how much_ dissolved CO2 is in the water. IIRC, the upper limit is 35mg/L before it affects the CO2/O2 exchange (diffusion) at the gill membrane.

CO2 is part of the carbonate buffering system/equilibria and would account for what seems odd when you test for pH, kH and dissolved CO2. Don't worry too much about it...just disable the airstone/pump.

HTH


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