# Lumind's 125g Tank



## Lumind (Mar 6, 2014)

Good Evening everyone,

Last November, I purchased a 46g Bow and set it up as my first reef tank. I've made many mistakes, and I've learned so many things over the past months and I finally decided to upgrade to a larger tank. 

In June, I went to Colin @ Reef Boutique and we ended up designing a 125g (60x24x20) Starfire Tank/Stand and a 40g Breeder as the sump. 

After waiting the longest month in my life, it's finally been set up in my office at home and I am beyond happy at how it came out.

The equipment list is:

Maxspect Razor 300w 48' LED
Vertex Alpha 170 Skimmer
Vertex RX-U 2.5l Reactor w/ Carbon
Phosban Reactor 150 w/ Phosban
UV Steralizer
2x MP40wes

Right now, the only fish in the tank are a Maroon Clown, Flame Angel & Yellow Eye Kole Tang. I'd really like to add a few tangs in the future when the tank is more developed. 

Many thanks to Colin and Chris for helping me make this tank a reality, and many thanks to all of you at GTA Aquaria for your input and help.

The first picture is of my 46g tank before I took it down.


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## Crayon (Apr 13, 2014)

You ain't going to get any work done with that tank in your office!! It looks awesome! Nice rock work.


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## Bullet (Apr 19, 2014)

Beautiful set up
Top equipment and obviously great help from RB !
Thanks for sharing


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## explor3r (Mar 14, 2010)

Sweat!!! love the caves


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## fesso clown (Nov 15, 2011)

NIce tank! 
tagging along for the ride!


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## clearnet (Jan 16, 2014)

Beautiful dimension and the build quality looks great!


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## johnnyriker (Nov 10, 2013)

I always liked the bowfront designs. The razors are nice lights as well.

johnny


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## verano (Mar 4, 2013)

I really like your rock setup.


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## duckhams (Oct 13, 2009)

I love the dimensions of the tank, it looks awesome. I'd consider lowering the rock work though, and give the top-shelf corals more room to grow.


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## Lumind (Mar 6, 2014)

I fully agree with you, duckhams. I'm planning on moving some of the rock work in the next little while. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## duckhams (Oct 13, 2009)

Lumind said:


> I fully agree with you, duckhams. I'm planning on moving some of the rock work in the next little while.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I look forward to seeing the new 'scape! I just went through this with my setup, I got all excited about how I wanted to set the rocks up and I do think it looks good, but I wish I had spent more time planning the rock-scape out based on coral placement and flow requirements. The ultimate result was that I struggle to find suitable positions for Euphyllia's (hammers, frogspawns etc).

First think corals, then think rocks.


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## Lumind (Mar 6, 2014)

I have two Euphyllia's right now in the tank and they're not having any issues at all. Same with the SPS in my tank. They're all growing like crazy compared to my old DT. 

I actually just picked up a beautiful Achilies Tang from Colin and he seems to be enjoying the rock scape. I'll post some pictures later this evening or tomorrow. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Lumind (Mar 6, 2014)

Here are a few more pics. 

Picked up a beautiful Achilies from Colin a few days ago. Eats like a pig and is super active. He's an absolute joy to watch.


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## rburns24 (Jan 31, 2011)

-
The Achilies Tang is a very nice fish to have, for sure. Yours looks to be in excellent health.
-


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## Lumind (Mar 6, 2014)

The tank is coming along very nicely. Dealing with some Diatoms right now but everything else is looking great! Having to change the Sock every 2-3 days is a kind of nuisance, though.


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## rickcasa (Dec 7, 2011)

Your tangs must appreciate all the cool caves to hang out in. Your 4ft Razor is the perfect match for your tank. Keep up the good work!


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## Lumind (Mar 6, 2014)

So it's been a while since I updated. Corals are doing extremely well. I picked up a doser to help with the dosing of calcium, magnesium and buffer. 

Lost my Achilles to what seemed to be Ick. Was eating like a pig and then the next day just didn't want to eat and died that night. Now I'm in the process of losing my entire fish stock to this, fish have been dropping left and right and there's nothing I can do since I have no room for a QT. Not sure if it's Ick or Brooklynella. A lot of white spots are starting at the gills and eyes it looks like. A few fish have had slightly cloudy eyes before they died. Any suggestions?


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## Lumind (Mar 6, 2014)

I'm unable to set up a QT and to treat my remaining fish (if it's not too late) is there anyone that would be able to help me out in this regard? I'd literally pay or swap a coral for help. . I really don't want to lose my Naso or Maroon over this. I'll delete this post if this isn't allowed here. I'm just so frustrated with this.


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## Flameangel (Sep 25, 2013)

I had the same experience about a year ago on my 90 gallon tank and only when I installed a 40 watt UV Sterilizer that I was able to stop the infestation of Ick on my fish and saving all of them from further damage.To date,I still have the UV Sterilizer running 24/7 and my Tangs are Ick free.


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## Lumind (Mar 6, 2014)

I've had one running for the past few weeks and it hasn't been helping much at all.


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## Flameangel (Sep 25, 2013)

Lumind said:


> I've had one running for the past few weeks and it hasn't been helping much at all.


How much is the wattage?On my 90 gallon,I'm using 40 watts and for you're 125 gallon it should be bigger than mine obviously.Also it would help to cool your tank down to about 77-78 Fahrenheit.Btw,the wattage on my UV sterilizer is twice the recommended power.


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## Lumind (Mar 6, 2014)

My tank has been running at 78 degrees for the entire time. I decided to raise it to 81 based on the Ick. Geez, I just have the 9w on mine. I'll see if I can borrow one off someone else for a bit.


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## corpusse (Jan 3, 2011)

Not QTing an Achillies is a recipe for disaster. Mine spent over 100 days in QT and has been fine in the display since. Treated with seachem cupramine, prazi pro and adjusted to eating various types of foods. 

Some people will tell you ich is always present in a reef, they are wrong. It's always present if you don't eliminate it. To eliminate it you need to run your system fishless for 90 days to allow the parasites to die. They will die without a host. They will not die from UV or other miracle treatments. Copper and hypo salinity are the only ways to eliminate it from you system both of which will kill your corals and your live rock.

I bought a 55 gallon tank on craigslist for $30. It's not running now because I am rearranging my basement or I'd offer you the space. I bought one jeabo powerhead, a heater and a sponge filter which I seeded for 1 month in my display sump. Even with this small amount of filtration the tank eventually cycled and I could have left it running forever had I not had to move it. If you're going to be buying really sensitive and disease prone fish you really have to QT. If you value your previous fish you really have to QT too. Almost everyone myself included has learned this the hard way. 

I've had my clownfish for 8 years and my chevron for 7. As much as I love newer fish like my achillies I'd never want to put the old guys in danger from something as silly as throwing a new fish in.


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## Lumind (Mar 6, 2014)

I appreciate your reply, thanks. I would definitely love to have a QT running in the future, but I live in a condo and don't have too much space. I might be able to fit something in the future but definitely not now. I'm not convinced that it's Ick either.


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## Flameangel (Sep 25, 2013)

Raising the temperature to 80+ degree Fahrenheit WILL speed up the development of the tomonts and if you have a UV Sterilizer will kill the free floating Theronts and Trophonts.

The life cycle and time line of each stage: 

1 : TOMONT STAGE: This is where the parasite forms a membrane while attached to the substrate and goes into its reproductive mode, this can take from 3 to 28 days depending on the temperature of the water. 

2 : THERONT STAGE: This is where the newly hatched parasite is free swimming in the water and is looking for a fish to attach to. It only has between 24 to 48 hours to do so or else it will die. 

3 : TROPHONT STAGE: This is the adult parasite which is attached to a fish and actively feeding and the one that we can visibly see on a fish. This stage lives from 3 to 7 days. 

4 : TROPHONT FREE SWIMMING: This is where the parasite has dropped off of the fish and is free swimming within the water looking for a suitable place to attach to so that it can form itself into the Tomont or reproductive stage, which can take up to 18 hours.


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## corpusse (Jan 3, 2011)

If all your fish end up dying I recommend you do wait 90 days before adding anymore. Even if its something else it will go away without a host.

If any survive and there was Ich it will still be present even if they don't show symptoms.


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## Lumind (Mar 6, 2014)

That's the plan unfortunately. I hope some survive but I doubt it the way it's going. I think I'm just going to go the low bioload route and focus on corals.


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