# Setting Up a Betta Tank



## Salinger

Hey everyone. So, the saga continues. I have just about everything I need now for my 23g long tank... except the tank.  Just waiting on the word from Miracles on when they'll deliver that.

In the meantime, I was at PetSmart last week and they had all their TopFin kits on sale for half price. I picked up a 5.5g kit for only $25. I have to say, it's okay for the price. The LED light is not the strongest, but it lights up the tank well enough. I wanted a betta, but trying to include one in the community tank I want to set up would mean there were a lot of fish I wouldn't be able to house with him. So, when I saw this for $25, I thought it was the perfect solution and a good way to get my feet wet on a smaller scale while I'm waiting for my main tank.

Anyway, I set everything up tonight, and have it filled and the filter running. Everything seems good so far. I used Prime to remove the chlorine. I also purchased some aquarium ammonia and Stability to do a fishless cycle and I'm wondering exactly how I do that. Do I put in the recommended amount of ammonia, and the Stability right away? Or do I just use the ammonia first, and wait? I do have an API master test kit, so I can start testing as soon as needed. I've tried finding the right steps online, but honestly, I've found about ten different instructions, all varying somewhat and I'm not sure how to proceed.


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## Fisheye

Hi Salinger,

I see you are up to 2 tanks now... I think you'll really enjoy keeping a Betta, in a proper sized tank no less. You are on a roll!

I've not done a fishless cycle using ammonia, but cycling is cycling-different strategies to get to the same goal of safe, stable parameters. Hopefully someone with real world experience will chime in. I took a page from your book and googled around and found, as you did, that there were lots of different takes on the same issue. Some instructions were exhausting to read and I had to take a nap.

In the event that you didn't search the forum (I didn't at first), there is an excellent, straightforward posting here:

http://www.gtaaquaria.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7292

"2nd method. This one is used by probably 99% of hobbyists. Addition of X amount of NH3 drops until Ammonia level of 5ppm is achieved. This X amount of drops has to be added daily until NO2 spike. Afterwards follow up with ½ X (from previous step) amount of NH3 drops daily until NO2 is 0ppm causing NO3 peak. ~50% water change should follow -> cycled tank. (this recipe uses regular Pure Ammonia 4-15%) 
Once the tank has been cycled, the bacterial colony created by this method can handle a large bio load immediately. The amount of Ammonia produced directly relates to the amount of bacteria that will be in the tank (Bio Load). The amount of Ammonia added to the tank during the cycle is significantly higher than what would be contributed by a small number of hardy fish, therefore, a much larger, healthier bacterial colony exists at the end of the cycle using Ammonia than would if you used fish."

Here's a calculator that may be helpful. Scroll down to the bottom for ammonia dosing.

http://www.fishforums.net/aquarium-calculator.htm

The pharmacist counter at Shopper's sells diabetic syringes-I use them for dosing PRIME and liquid ferts.

To answer your question about Stability and ammonia, yes add the Stability as per directions on the bottle and dose the ammonia as per the above.

Stability and similar products add bacteria into your enclosed system to mostly seed the filter and to somewhat colonize on driftwood, rocks, decor...The ammonia is the food that the bacteria eat. Some people use fish food or dead shrimp in place of ammonia. Each to their own.

HTH.

Jackie
(Hope your big tank comes soon!!)


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## Salinger

Thanks Jackie! That helps a lot. 

I'm okay with the dosing. I bought from Amazon, ammonia actually intended for aquarium cycling. It came in essentially a large eye drop bottle with clear instruction on how many drops per gallon. So on that, I'm comfortable that I have the right type and know the right dose. But the procedure you quoted really helps the how. I was also unsure if I was supposed to let the ammonia establish (if that's even a thing) before adding the Stability.

I added the ammonia this morning before leaving for work, I'll add the Stability when I go home this afternoon. Along with doing my first water test! It may be too early, but I'm anxious just to give it a try.

Thanks for the tip on the syringe! I was checking on Amazon (my go-to place) and they had some, but very expensive I thought for what they were. With a tank as small as 5.5g it'll be really helpful as it requires such tiny doses that even measuring by the threads on the cap as recommended is not really practical.

Does the fact that this tank is so small mean it'll cycle more quickly, or is it all relative; a smaller tank thus less area for beneficial bacteria to populate? I ask only because when I was at Menagerie, a family there who seemed to know even less than I on fishkeeping were asking a lot of questions. The staff member there told them to get their aquarium today, set it up and get it running, then come back in three days to pick up some fish. In everything I've read it generally takes weeks, not days for a tank to cycle.


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## Fisheye

Hey,

Yeah, I thought the instructions on this here forum were the bestest. Yay GTAA!!!

An addendum to the Shopper's syringes...you can buy singly.

I'm guessing the Menagerie convo you overheard had to do with the fact that the family were maybe going to use Nutrifin's Cycle (or similar) which is a product like your Seachem Stability. Nutrifin directions say that you can safely add fish after 3 days.

I've gone the Cycle route in a Fluval Edge (6 gal), but was diligent about testing water parameters and doing water changes.

As far as the speed of cycling, well that's a good question but I think it takes at least a month to get stable bacterial colonies. Wondering how you've stocked your tank as far as live plants, type of substrate and decor (real wood, rock or plastic).

Here are better words from the wizards of all things aquaria...

http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/fwestcycling.htm

"Time Frame: Though can be delayed for a month or more most systems can be "cycled" in a few (2-3) weeks generally.

About Temperature, and Establishing Cycling:

More important than any given temperature (within reason) is some sense of stability. Keeping your system in the upper part of "typical tropical seawater" range (upper seventies to lower eighties F) and not allowing it to vacillate more than a few degrees per day will optimize (shorten) the period of time it takes to fully cycle it.

Time Frame: Typically a few (3-4) weeks.

Bacteria and Not Cultures:

There are commercial preparations of bacteria, their adjuncts available that you can add from a bottle directly to your system'¦ Some work pretty well most of the time (e.g. Dr. Tim's "One and Only", Marineland's Bio-Spira, and fresh Fritzyme "¢), others are "not so reliable. How can you tell if yours is working? See "Testing" below...."

Time Frame: May seem like right away... but best to wait a good two weeks after using these products, measure some accumulating nitrate, possibly algal growth as indications that the system has "really" cycled enough."

I just looked up the TOPFIN kit that you got. The picture on the box actually shows the 5.5 gallon tank stocked with 2 platies, 1 swordtail, 1 albino cory, 4 something elses and 1 gourami. How crazy is that?

J


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## Salinger

Here's my Betta tank. It's certainly not going to win any awards for aquascaping but I just wanted to get it up and running. I don't like the aesthetics of the grey cave ornament vs the natural colour of most everything else, but it'll do for now.

I read that bettas like a "cave" but I don't know if this one will be any good. I bought it several weeks ago at Big Al's, before I even considered the Betta tank. It was meant for my main tank whenever I get around to setting that up. The edges seem to be smooth so as to not tear his fins, but I'm not sure the openings will be big enough. The cave and rocks are resin, the plants are real. I doubt the lights are strong enough to sustain the plants, so I may have to add something to help them survive or maybe just swap them out for silk.

https://www.amazon.com/photos/share/rsK5lwfBR4NSlF7XZy6KCxRUoRNBVHdhQGCy3n3Mrw5


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## Fisheye

Oh YAY!

So it looks like you don't have anything organic that would contribute ammonia and not a heavy enough plant load to consume ammonia (maybe in a lab someone could say one way or another).

I bet you'll find your betta resting on the top of the java fern a lot.

You could move the java behind and the anubias in front of the cave to hide it if you weren't keen.

Anyway, I hope you'll post another pic with a betta in it!!

J


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## bettaforu

Hi there, that's a nice little tank but in reality more than a Betta will require.

Bettas are lazy fish! They are also air breathers and because of this it means they have to continually rise to the surface to breathe air or they die....you would of course know that.

Putting a lot of water in the tank will make the Betta have to work harder to keep going up and down to breathe. They actually do well in only 6 inchs of water. 

I may be wrong here, but I do believe Anubias plants are not good for them either. They prefer Java Fern...not moss as they can trap fins inside moss, as they like to push into it and Ive lost one champion that way so don't recommend moss. A couple of nice Java Ferns located around the tank will do just fine, they don't even need to be planted...floating ones seem to be the ones they like best to sleep on.

Stones can rip Betta fins and are not recommended in a tank setup. Best to go with natural plant setting.

Bettas are the easiest fish to keep, don't require fancy tanks at all, and do much better in bare bottom tanks where you can see any dropped food (they are notorious for this) and vaccum it up before it fouls the water. 

Planted tanks will need to be vaccummed quite often as Bettas don't have great eyesight and often don't see the food unless its in front of them, why it often ends up on the bottom.

People do keep them in planted tanks but not with a lot of other fish because the fish will nip the fins of your Betta. Danios and small rasboras would work as they mostly ignore the Betta, Tetras and anything bigger will hurt your Betta.

Ammonia spikes will also rot a Bettas fins faster than you can say Betta! Why most hobbyists just keep the Betta in plain old bare bottom tanks...no ammonia spikes to worry about. IAL leaves are a good bottom cover too as this softens the water and Bettas love soft water, although it will darken the water colour, so limit the leaves to maybe one every other month.

Hope this helps. Ive kept and shown Bettas for over 40 years and my oldest boy lived to 5 yrs (most Bettas only live approx. 2 ) don't overfeed them either and give them a day off which will help their disgestive system.

Good luck with your new fish.


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## Salinger

My tank is still not even beginning to cycle. Is that normal? It's been running for almost three weeks and I've been following the ammonia dosing per the instructions and using Seachem Stability, but the ammonia levels haven't dropped at all, and there has never been a nitrite reading register. If it's too soon to see anything, that's fine, I'm just wondering if maybe I'm missing something. I thought using Stability was supposed to speed up the process but three weeks with zero results seems not too speedy to me. 

Thanks for all that info Bettaforu. I can only imagine how beautiful some of your bettas are. I'd love to see some photos!


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## coldmantis

Salinger said:


> My tank is still not even beginning to cycle. Is that normal? It's been running for almost three weeks and I've been following the ammonia dosing per the instructions and using Seachem Stability, but the ammonia levels haven't dropped at all, and there has never been a nitrite reading register. If it's too soon to see anything, that's fine, I'm just wondering if maybe I'm missing something. I thought using Stability was supposed to speed up the process but three weeks with zero results seems not too speedy to me.
> 
> Thanks for all that info Bettaforu. I can only imagine how beautiful some of your bettas are. I'd love to see some photos!


Ask around in the forum for someone that lives near you, maybe one of them is cleaning their canister filter just asked them for their dirty black/brown water. dump that in and it will be cycled in less then a week if not the next day, I'm doing water changes in these coming days but I'm in east end scarborough.


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## Fisheye

Hi Salinger!

Could you post the ammonia reading-I think you were aiming for 5 as per directions. (api colour chart goes from 2.0-4.0-8.0 so I'm confused but whatever) I just wonder if the bacteria in the Stability is having trouble dealing with the amount of ammonia...

As per seachem help:

http://www.seachem.com/support/forums/forum/general-discussion/21130-seachem-stability-fishless-new-55-gallon-aquarium-cycle

"Ammonia will typically need to peak between 1-2 ppm to facilitate the cycle. If levels have been consistently low on ammonia thus far, you will need to add more organics to the tank. It is best to avoid water changes if possible as this will simply prolong the cycle process as you are removing ammonia and organics before they can peak in the appropriate range.

The product Stability will seed all of the bacteria colonies needed to develop a healthy nitrogen cycle. Thus, by the end of the first week of dosing, your tank should have had some readings for ammonia and possible nitrite if an ammonia source was added. However, it may take some time after these first seven days of treatment with Stability for the bacteria colonies to grow to match the amount of waste available in the tank. The actual cycle process can take anywhere from 1 week to 8-10 weeks depending on the system."

http://www.seachem.com/support/forums/forum/general-discussion/18808-cycling-using-stability

"If you are seeing some ammonia or nitrites, then the bacteria should be working to convert ammonia through the cycle. The rate at which these bacteria colonies grow is dependent on stability of pH, temperature, availability of suitable surfaces on which to grow, and many other factors. We have heard of tanks that have been completely cycled by a few days after the week of treatment with Stability, but most tanks require at least three weeks total to cycle completely..."


Are you running a heater? What temp?

Did you treat tank water with Prime (re chlorine and chloramines). Have you done any water changes over the past 3 weeks?

Finally, just to rule out anything, check the dates on your test solutions and stability.

Coldmantis has a great solution if you are growing impatient.

J


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## bettaforu

Sorry your tank isn't working for you.

here is pics of my current 3 boys all for sale.


























here's some of my previous ones
http://bettaforu.yolasite.com/


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## Salinger

Oh wow, those are incredible! I especially love the blue and gold one. I've only ever seen bettas in pet stores, and those are beautiful to be sure, but these are just spectacular! Do you mind me asking the general price range for fish like these? I have to believe they'd be much more than those in pet stores.


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## bettaforu

Yes these are very nice. Thailand direct bought Bettas come from the Breeders and they pick their best to sell online. I buy many of them and import them, and Yes they are expensive.  You won't see these in the stores. 

The red fire devil Koi HMPK is $60 both the other 2 which are Show potential
are $35 each. Buying direct from Breeders you get young Bettas only about 4-5 months old, so hopefully you get a longer lifespan with them. I have been conditioning these and they are in great shape! 

Im hoping to show some of them if not sold at CAOAC in May. 

Will be bringing in a few more to sell at the Show. Prices range approx. $45-60
each which is in line with what they are selling out in BC if you want to compare.

Im in Milton/Burlington/Oakville area so if your looking for something specific
let me know Im buying for next week shipping from Thailand.


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## Salinger

Thanks so much, as always Jackie. I think you're right. I think the ammonia level may be too high for the bacteria to establish. I did a small water change, I'm going to do a larger one to get the level down and see if that helps. I did use Prime to remove chlorine/chloramine. I guess I just assume it worked or is there a test to ensure there's no chlorine remaining? I am using a heater, it's just a small Aqueon pre-set 50w heater I got at Big Al's. It is pre-set to 78F and by my thermometer, the temperature has been very consistent. My test kit solutions are dated 'till 2022 so I'm good there.

Thanks bettaforu, the more I see of bettas, the more I am falling for them.  I didn't realize the varieties and colours, it's kind of amazing. I think $35 is quite reasonable for a fish like those!


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## Fisheye

Hey,

There are chlorine test strips...

https://www.bigalspets.com/ca/tropical-6-in-1-test-strips-50-pk.html ($44) and 
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Chlorine-Test-Papers-100-Strips/157845434 ($8. I do not know if these are safe for aquarium. Safer to test sample separately).

I think Prime is considered the best and most reliable and is recommended most frequently. My opinion is that you don't need to spend money on chlorine test strips. Prime does not expire.

http://www.seachem.com/support/foru...ussion/2621-seachem-prime-and-false-positives

"Prime works by removing chlorine from the water and then binds with ammonia until it can be consumed by your biological filtration (chloramine minus chlorine = ammonia). The bond is not reversible and ammonia is still available for your bacteria to consume. Prime will not halt your cycling process." 

Good call on the larger water change IMO. Others might think differently as you are in cycling mode...but a w/c might just allow the nitrifying bacteria to spring to life. Wait 24 hrs after w/c to test ammonia and nitrite. Fingers crossed for you!

I bought a GH/KH kit a while back. It wasn't until recently that I noticed the GH expiry was 2017 and KH was 2022 so someone did a switcheroo at some point. I find the ink on the test bottles rubs of so I write the dates in sharpie on the bottom-because I can't remember those things. (the date on Stability is on the bottom and it's cool too right?)

Look forward to hearing that you've got more cycling action!!

J


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## Salinger

Thanks Jackie! Well, I was just about to do a water change, and I thought I'd do one more test before. It looks like the process has finally started! I'm showing ammonia levels of about 1.0-2.0ppm (down from 4-5) and for the first time, I'm getting nitrite (~.5ppm) and nitrate (5.0ppm) readings. I have to say, it's very exciting. 

https://www.amazon.com/photos/share/Nj28DVhWuNDcxnmQHMsxCvzQU0TXkqtlFv2TOLpgp8J

I find it's not the easiest to match the colour of the vials to the chart, but there is definitely some movement finally.

I was wondering about the PH tests. Are those something I need to do regularly? I'm assuming the PH stays pretty much the same unless I add something to alter it. And do I need to do both PH and high level PH or do you just do one or the other depending on the PH level of your water?

It turns out this may be my only aquarium for a bit. I've been on the waitlist for a new apartment in a different building for a while now and I just got word I'm at the top of the list, so the next vacancy that opens up, I'll be moving. I figure with that in mind, it probably isn't a good idea setting up my bigger tank now only to have to dismantle and move it who knows when. I'm kind of disappointed after looking forward to setting it up for so long, but I don't think it makes sense to move forward with it when I could get the word to move at any time.


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## Fisheye

Yay to everything!!!

It's so cool to be able to follow your journey cycling with ammonia. Thank you for sharing.

I agree with your assessment regarding PH. There's nothing in your tank- organic nutrient rich substrate, driftwood, co2-that would warrant regular PH testing. Randomly sure, and I think especially in the spring because of winter run off. Toronto tap runs about 7.8-that's what I got tonight anyway. So that would be the high ph test.

But don't just take my word for it

https://www.toronto.ca/311/knowledg...boratory/toronto-water-hardness-ph-level.html

Congrats on being top of the list for new digs. That's almost as exciting as your tank cycling!

J


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## Salinger

I think I'm almost there, finally!

Ammonia is being converted quite quickly now. I dosed last night, and this morning the reading was back down to 0, so that's great.

The only thing is, my nitrites and nitrates readings are both very high. Does this mean I need to do a water change? What %? My understanding was that nitrites would convert to nitrates, and then do a water change. Should I leave it or act now?

On a side note, the Java Fern and Anubias I planted are both growing really well. Given how low the lighting is in my little kit, I'm really pleased with this.


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## Fisheye

Hey,

So great to hear that things are moving in the right direction.

My thinking is that you have 2 options...either skip dosing ammonia for a couple of days to give the bacteria time to catch up or do a 30-50% water change. You would have to do water changes if it was a fish in cycle anyway so...

As oxygen is a key component to the cycling process, it makes sense to introduce oxygenated water into the system. If you can spare 2:53, here is a very smart 12 yr old (approx) explaining 




As per The Simple Guide to Freshwater Aquariums, pg 124 regarding cycling with fish, any time you get an ammonia or nitrite reading in the danger zone (which is not stated) cut back on feeding (adding ammonia source besides what the fish contribute) and do a 30-50% water change. Test the next day. If levels are in the danger zone, do 30-50% water change. Repeat until ammonia and nitrite are 0 and nitrate are 40ppm or below. Once your numbers are stable for 3 days, you are cycled!

Alors, zee choix eez yours.

Hope all goes well!

J


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## Salinger

Thanks Jackie, super helpful as always. I'm going to do a 50% water change and test again tomorrow. The Ammonia is 0, but Nitrites are staying near the upper ranges of the test results so based on what you've said, I think the water change is the better route. It seems the ammonia is being converted fine, so maybe this will help the cycle finish and allow the bacteria to build up to convert the nitrites. Fingers crossed. 

I dropped in to Menagerie today to have a look at the bettas as, hopefully, I'm close to being able to get one. They had a fine selection. I'd planned on getting one with the nice long flowing fins, the ones you kind of think of when you think of a betta. But they had this one small blue plakat there that I really liked. It was very small though, so I don't know if it was just very young or if plakats are smaller bodied than other strains. I don't know if there are any pros or cons to one kind over the other but now I've got another decision to make.


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## Fisheye

Plakat`s are apparently more active and resistant to fin rot and tears. Breeding for long flowing fins comes at a cost to the fish, unfortunately.

In the event that you have some downtime between decisions, here`s my favorite betta video (3:04).


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## Salinger

I went to Menagerie as they had just gotten a new shipment of bettas in, and totally fell for this guy. Say hello to Thaddeus! 

I'm sure he's not 'show quality' but I think he's beautiful. He's been in the tank for a while now and he's totally captivating to watch. He is so active and inquisitive. I don't know if he's just familiarizing himself with his new surroundings, or if he's a super active betta, but he's all over the tank. Left, right, back, front, up down; He's in and out of the little cave, swimming through and under the plants, around the rock formation ornament, he's really fascinating to watch.

I don't know what a healthy betta looks like TBH, but he definitely seems like he's fit. I gave him a few pellets and he gobbled them up, swam right up to my finger. It took me a while to get the tank cycled and ready, but it appears to have paid off as Thad seems like a very happy betta.


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## Fisheye

Hi Thaddeus!

(He`s so extrahhh)

Looks like you picked a nice healthy guy-fins are perfect, no missing scales, streamlined body, no lumps, clear eye (of 2)...and he`s patrolling and eating! Fab.

Menagerie has so much integrity and genuinely cares about their fish so you can never go wrong bringing home something live from them. IMO.

I`m thinking about all of the research, leg work and preparation you`ve done leading up to today. You`ve done everything right for your future fish and for Thad-he`s a *very* lucky Betta. I hope he makes you happy for many years.

Enjoy your new roommate slash son 

J


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## bettaforu

He a Magenta (color) and he's a very pretty boy. Looks to be well cared for too.
He will enjoy that tank, just don't overfeed him, give him only a few pellets at a time and if he doesn't eat them all up scoop them out of the tank...uneaten food leads to disease in Bettas. Give him one day off to recover his disgestive system..helps them to poop.

Keep Spiralina flakes on hand for emergencies. When a Betta gets swimbladder or doesn't want to eat, its usually the only thing that helps get them back on track.

Watch for rips in that big fin, if you see one you will have to deal with it immediately or finrot will set in. HMs are very susceptible to it. Plakats not so much. He's a beauty.


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## Salinger

Thanks guys, I'm very happy.  Checked on him first thing this morning to make sure everything was still okay, and he is still moving all over the tank. When I sat down at the counter to watch him for a bit he swam right up to the front of the glass and stayed there. I wonder if he's already connected me with food. haha

Bettaforu, thanks for the tips. So, every second day for feeding is best? I didn't know about Spiralina flakes, but I'll be sure to pick some up to have on hand. You said to deal with rips in his fin right away and I was wondering what to do should that happen?


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## bettaforu

I usually feed my Bettas every day once in the am and later at night, about 5 small pellets (Hikari Bio-Gold) is what I feed as the pellets are smaller than most other feeds. I do like Northfin Betta food too. I don't feed on the 7th day...let them go hungry...they will beg for food but don't fall for it, just ignore them.  Too much feeding causes bloating and constipation. One day off won't kill them, and then the next day they will clean up any food you give them.

When a Betta rips its fins and it can happen at any time...flaring does it, catching it on something in the tank (why plastic plants are a NO NO) rocks are bad unless they are round and smooth, finrot sets in. Once a rip starts bacteria gets into the skin of the fin and starts eating it away. You can only stop it by taking the Betta out putting it in a smaller bowl and adding aquarium salt (small pinch) and changing the water every day doing the same thing. Yes its a pain but it will help stop the bacteria and salt heals the fin very quickly...it will reattach itself just like a cut on our finger.

If you leave it alone, it will start to lose more and more of the fin each day...sometimes it eats away till it reaches the body and by that time its too late to save the Betta (in most cases) 

Bettas are stupid fish...yes I am saying this because Ive seen them do such dumb things makes you shake your head. Ive lost one that tried to get behind the intake pipe of the HOB filter and its fins got sucked into the holes and it couldn't get away to reach the surface to breathe and suffocated! He was one of my champions too! 

After that I only used sponge filters or the inside Whisper one that the water pours over the edge..no pipe. Also moss especially Java moss gets dense and Bettas try to swim into them, they like to sleep in or on plants, and again I lost one that got trapped by its long fins inside the moss, so suffocated. 

They try to enter caves structures, driftwood etc and tear the paperthin fins... Like I said dumb! Beautiful but dumb! Ive seen shrimps sitting on their heads and they don't even know they are there.


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## Fisheye

Regarding fin rips...although medicating, and salt treatments can be curative, these are stressful for your fish, so prevention is the key. Make sure that there is nothing rough in the tank - the cave would be my only concern. The pantyhose test is the best way to check things that could potentially snag long flowing fins.

Keeping up with water changes and maintaining parameters will go a long way toward protecting your line bred betta from developing issues with fin rot.

Rachel O'leary has 2 videos that address the issue of fin rot and the curative power of clean water. She received a shipment of 5 male bettas in error and this is how she handled the issue with their fins.





 1.24-5.28December 13


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## Salinger

I've read about male bettas building bubble nests. I'm assuming this is Thad's version.


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## bettaforu

Yes that is a male built bubble nest. Happy male Bettas will often blow bubbles at the surface usually under a leaf, or a piece of foam etc.

They will do this even if there is no female around, so don't worry. He's just getting in the mood


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## Salinger

Haha, thanks. I admit, I was a little worried when I first noticed it, thinking something may have gotten in his tank though I couldn't imagine how as it's just me there. But then I remembered reading about bubble nests and figured this must be it.

As you might see in the photos, I bought him one of those leaf hammock things and noticed him over there a lot. I just thought he was resting on it as intended, but I guess he was busy blowing bubbles.


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## Salinger

Quick question on the bubble nests. Is it normal for him to keep building them? Is it stressful at all that he keeps building them but has no mate or eggs?

He seems quite happy and active, but continues to build bubble nests. He spends a couple of days or so building one, it dissipates after a few days, then a few days after that he starts in again. He's currently building another one and I'd say it's his fourth or fifth in the few weeks I've had him. It's fascinating to watch, just wondering is this normal?


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## Fisheye

Hi Salinger,

So great to read your post and find that Thad is doing amazing!

It's normal. 

J


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## Salinger

I'm going out of the province for 8 days in June. Given how little a single betta eats, would the Eheim automatic feeder work or would it dispense too many pellets. I didn't want to buy one only to discover it wouldn't work well and then have to return it.


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## Black Pearl

If you're still cycling your water, I can give you some (fancy) guppy (nothing kills them  ) and some Java moss.


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