# is there any liquid to clean silicon?



## sig (Dec 13, 2010)

I took all tick silicon out, but there remain very tin layer that I can not remove even with the razor blade
Thanks

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## J_T (Mar 25, 2011)

sig said:


> I took all tick silicon out, but there remain very tin layer that I can not remove even with the razor blade
> Thanks


Yep, nasty chemical. It is like jelly, applied with a brush. You'll find it in the paint section of home depot. Small can like pvc glue, but white plastic.

After you clean the silicone, you'll want to use an acid like muriatic, then fresh water until it stops smelling. Then a vinegar wipe down to make sure.

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## sig (Dec 13, 2010)

Thanks JT. I will better leave it as is.

I used similar stuff to take lacquer from the hardwood with scraper. No more

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## J_T (Mar 25, 2011)

sig said:


> Thanks JT. I will better leave it as is.
> 
> I used similar stuff to take lacquer from the hardwood with scraper. No more


The acid alone may take off the film. And would be a more trusted method IMO. Was/scrub, dilute, vineagar, done.

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## sig (Dec 13, 2010)

I want to clean top edges of the tank. Wont it damage the glass?

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## J_T (Mar 25, 2011)

sig said:


> I want to clean top edges of the tank. Wont it damage the glass?


You've taken the trim off a tank?

No, the acid won't damage the rest of the tank. Wear gloves, turn the tank on its sides, and work on the flat sides. That will stop running, and make it easier to clean after as it is contained to an inch or two.

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## sig (Dec 13, 2010)

J_T said:


> You've taken the trim off a tank?
> 
> No, the acid won't damage the rest of the tank. Wear gloves, turn the tank on its sides, and work on the flat sides. That will stop running, and make it easier to clean after as it is contained to an inch or two.
> 
> Posted with my Xperia, using Tapatalk 2


Yes. I took it out. It was original rimless from Miracles and RD installed eurobrace. I think in the future I will install another brace, but maximum 2" wide.
Will think, but it is really invisible and I do not know if it make sense to bother

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## 50seven (Feb 14, 2010)

There is a spray solution, we use it when we install frameless shower enclosures. I get it from CR Laurence in Vaughan. 

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## sig (Dec 13, 2010)

Thanks Kevin. I know them

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## Fishfur (Mar 4, 2012)

I was reading an article on how to repair an aquarium the other day, as I have two to fix. It said to use acetone to clean the glass and remove those irritating bits of silicone that fight to stay stuck on. I know what you mean, it's like the stuff just won't let go ! Acetone is in nail polish remover, but regular laquer thinner would also work. But be sure you have ventilation.. the fumes will give you a headache awfully quickly. And I know that paint thinner will work on silcone that has not fully cured yet.. it actually prevents it from curing completely, ever. It makes it a bit gummy/gooey, but it's possible to scrape the goo off and then use detergent to remove the remaining residue. Then use vinegar and water to rinse off the detergent, then rinse and rinse again. I prefer to err on the side of too much rinsing rather than not enough. The tank I'm fixing now, I'm just at the stage where I'm working on those last stubborn bits. I'll let you know if either paint or laquer thinner works on it.


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## sig (Dec 13, 2010)

do not bother with acetone. It does not work.
My wife has commercial equipment cleaner, which removes everything, I even used it to remove tint from the car window. but it does not work on silicon

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## Fishfur (Mar 4, 2012)

Well, that's good to know. Saves me buying some, as the bottle I had appears to be empty. I know with the first tank I fixed, which I only had to reseal, it took me ages and a LOT of scrubbing with a non scratch scrubbie pad to get off the last vestiges of the old silicone.. basically, elbow grease seems to be key. Sometimes turning the razor scraper on it's side also helps, but one must be careful not to let it scratch the glass past the point the new silicone will cover up. But life is like that.. one lives and with any luck, one learns.


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## BillD (Jun 5, 2006)

If you use a silicone remover, which I believe is Methylene Chloride, you risk damaging the butt joints that hold the tank together. I wouldn't risk it unless i was planning to totally deconstruct the tank. Razor blades have never failed to remove the old silicone, although it is a tedious job.


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## J_T (Mar 25, 2011)

Anyone tried a magic eraser? I mean the thing will clean everything else!

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## pyrrolin (Jan 11, 2012)

razor blades are the way to go, when you have virtually all the silicone off, put a new blade on and go at it again. Its amazing how much more you can get off with a fresh new blade. Expect to use 2 blades on smaller tanks and 4 to 5 on larger tanks.

Expect to spend hours of work on larger tanks.

I also rinse the tank every once in a while to clear out the old stuff that gets in the way.

At the end, I use a no scratch pad over all the corners just to make sure any loose pieces are cleaned off.,


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## Fishfur (Mar 4, 2012)

That's basically how I did mine and it works.. but there is a fair bit of work to the job. I also found a much better razor blade holder, with a round handle very similar to a screwdriver and a long shaft on it. I found it at an auto parts store, but it was not CanTire. This scraper turned out to be a lot easier to use and hold onto than the short, flat handled one I started with, and I wish I'd had it from the beginning. Made the job much easier. I also use the vacuum nozzle to suck out the scraps of silicone periodically, which is a bit less of a chore than wet rinsing, which I leave to the very end.


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## rickcasa (Dec 7, 2011)

Steel wool works like a charm. I removed baffles from a DIY sump and it's clean as a whistle.


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