# Thinking of Starting up a Turtle habitat :)



## ajdelosr (Jul 11, 2010)

I just sold my saltwater aquarium to some friendly members of this forum. Upgrading my saltwater tank woulda cost me upwards of $1000 for better lighting, water filters, etc.

Anyways, I was researching on turtles and found they are relatively cheaper to maintain/start up since many people on kijiji are giving them away for free, tank, equipment and all the accessories.

I know they require a great deal of care and that tank upgrades would have to be made a couple years down the road when they grow bigger.

Recommendations? Questions or concerns that people may want to bring up? Keep in mind I've read up on some of the challenges that members have faced here and what not.

I also figured it would be better to 'rescue' someone's turtle rather than buying one from the pet shop and if they're giving it away for free, everyone wins!


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## Kerohime (Jan 10, 2011)

Thats a pretty good idea, there are lots of turtles that need rescuing because people generally dont know what they are in for when they buy a turtle...

I especially hate it when Chinese pet shops sell 20 dollar red ear sliders in little plastic tanks. Those types of turtles grow to the size of dinner plates! THey also need filtered water and the proper lighting.

If you can get a free setup that would be ideal, but turtle tanks are more expensive to set up than the generic fish tank, especially since tanks come in kits for fish, although I've seen the rare smaller turtle kit. You generally need an underwater filter, lots of gravel, a basking light and a full spectrum light that has UVB to help the turtle metabolize calcium (vitamin D). Not to mention the tank upgrades, I have had a customer (a responsible one) upgrade the turtle tank about 3 times. Turtles are also omnivores so they need lots of different kinds of foods (aquatic plants, pellet, fishmeal, calcium supplements). 

To me, the turtle setups seem to be a huge hassle which is why most people give up on it at the end. 

Although, you can actually get a few species of aquatic turtles that stay relatively small like the Razorback musk turtle that a 20 gallon tank would be ok for the rest of its life, or even 29 gallons. Might be good to look into the various turtle breeds, you can get fancy ones at reptile shows in the GTA.

Personally, I would just spend a few hundred dollars on a tortoise, they are herbivores so you can give them lettuce, dandilions and fruit, really cute, and you can give it a corner of your room with some fencing and a basking light. You can even get them to hibernate during winter. You'd need to will the tortoise to your kids though. hehe


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## wtac (Mar 17, 2006)

One thing that one has to keep in mind is microbial contamination. It's not a wise practice to suck on the end of the hose to start a siphon to drain it (BARF) and using a Python system, you have to disinfect surfaces from the splashing.

Ideally, have the aquarium drilled for 1) intake to the canister filter and 2) for a drain to empty the aquarium. You can forego the canister filter and drilling route and use internal filters for filtration and a powerhead to drain.

When the turtles get bigger, they do require more space as during breeding season, the males can be a bit over amourous and bite the tails/limbs of females, unless you are only going to keep one.

Longterm, a 48"x18" based aquarium will suffice but longer and wider is ideal as they can live upwards of 20+ years. 

Knowing the history of the turtle(s) (Red Ear Sliders) in question is key as it will give you an idea of how much larger they will grow. The first 2 years are when the turtles are at their peak growth rate. In ideal conditions, females will grow up to 12-14" and males 8-10" in diameter. Factoring in basking areas, you'll get an idea of the enclosure size requirements.

Additionally, above the basking area should be a "heat lamp" and have UVA/UVB FL lamps for proper digestion and vit D3 synthesis.

Just a few things to take into consideration.

HTH


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## wtac (Mar 17, 2006)

Kero: I know a guy that had a Red Foot Tortoise since he was a child. He's in his mid 40's now and unfortunately it passed away a few eyars ago from pneumonia when a cold snap hit and the heat lamp blew out when he was away.


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## ajdelosr (Jul 11, 2010)

Question about heating and lighting. Do I have to have a heat spot all day and night? For example, the standard uvb lighting during the day and a ceramic heating lamp at night? So there is actual light during the day and only heat at night? If so, how long are each respective lamps on for?


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## Kerohime (Jan 10, 2011)

you can probably put a water heater into the tank and you wouldnt need a ceramic heater. 

Turtles should have both a day and night cycle too. 
I would set it on 8- 10 hours of night for both the heat and uv lights. 

wtac: I would break my heart to have a 40 year old tortoise die me. =(


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## ajdelosr (Jul 11, 2010)

Kerohime said:


> you can probably put a water heater into the tank and you wouldnt need a ceramic heater.
> 
> Turtles should have both a day and night cycle too.
> I would set it on 8- 10 hours of night for both the heat and uv lights.
> ...


The ceramic heater thing I was talking about was the one that doesn't emit light, I'm just wondering because room temperature would then become the same temperature as the water at night when the main light/heat source is turned off.

For example, during the day I'd have a lamp on with this bulb:
http://www.bigalsonline.ca/Reptiles_Lighting_Repti-Glo-100-Compact-Desert-Terrarium-Lamps_9814017_102.html?tc=reptiles
This would provide heat and light.

Then at night I would have this on:
http://www.bigalsonline.ca/Reptiles_Heating_Ceramic-Heat-Emitter_7098113_102.html?tc=reptiles

I'm just wondering it that's necessary?


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## Kerohime (Jan 10, 2011)

I'm saying if you put a normal fish tank water heater into the tank water, the water would be at a warmer temperature even if you turned the basking bulb and UV F bulb off during the night. So no, i dont think you need a ceramic heating bulb. In the natural habitat, water temperature drops as well during the night time, so its not that big of a deal unless your room is ridiculously cold.

You for sure need a basking lamp in addition to the fluorescent one too, turtles love to bask out of the water.


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## Fish_Man (Apr 9, 2010)

This is what I have for my turtle setup.

This for the light:
http://www.exo-terra.com/en/products/solar_glo.php

This for the dock:
http://www.bigalsonline.ca/Reptiles_Habitat-Accessories_Turtle-Topper_9465089_102.html?tc=reptiles

A 20gal tank for now till it grows bigger then I'll switch it up.
100 watt submersible heater
Tetra filter

I like the dock since its outside of the tank which gives my turtle more room to swim around. He/she eats and poos on the deck so its easy to clean.


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## Kerohime (Jan 10, 2011)

That sun glo light is excellent, I believe it does the job of both the fluorescent and basking lights, it has both UVA and UVB but the problem is that the bulb is big, expensive, and you will have to change the bulb more frequently than if you had a separate UVB and basking light (basking bulbs usually have UVA)


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## Jackson (Jan 30, 2009)

No time to read through all the replys but I did see a tortoise mentioned. They are one animal I think that should be left to experts only and experts who's family are willing to take over care once that person has grown old. If cared fir properly they can live 50+ years and they need huge set ups even the smaller species. They cost more than dogs to keep happy and healthy. Im speaking from experience with them. Had a group breeding group of red foots. It was a lot of work.
Reason you see so many res for free is they are cheap and grow big so many people can't provide a pond or 100+ gal tank to look after them. They also require an expensive filtration system. They are cute when small and the $25 for 3 that I have seen them sell for is the deal breaker. The hobby has abused them beyond fixing. You still see people breeding them by the hundreds.

If you want a turtle best thing is to do your research on the many types available and see what ones will do well in your set up. Generaly speaking the turtles that do stay small cost a lot more then what you see in the pets shops on a regular. 

Turtles and tortoises are not good pets. I own a few lots of work and stress. Oh and just to say hi to one of the few vets that are worth seeing will cost 100+. 

For light use a spotlight or flood lamp very cheap. Then use the flo UVA,UVB bulbs that are out there they are great and you don't risk an explosion or exposure to unhealthy light.


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## Kerohime (Jan 10, 2011)

Jackson said:


> No time to read through all the replys but I did see a tortoise mentioned. They are one animal I think that should be left to experts only and experts who's family are willing to take over care once that person has grown old. If cared fir properly they can live 50+ years and they need huge set ups even the smaller species. They cost more than dogs to keep happy and healthy. Im speaking from experience with them. Had a group breeding group of red foots. It was a lot of work.


Wow I take back what I said about tortoises. o.o
That is indeed good to know, I almost bought a leopard tortoise!


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## wtac (Mar 17, 2006)

I totally forgot about the ceramic "heat lamps". I prefered those over the typical basking and UVA/B lamps when I had my iguana (RIP).

To summarize, use the ceramic lamp for the basking area and the CF/FL lamps for UVA/B and visable light.

Yeah...the herp vets are $$$, esp @Links Rd Animal Clinic. I'm not sure if she's on the herp forums these but look for Thea B. I've since lost contact with her but she's a wealth of knowledge and in the GTA.

JM2C


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## Jackson (Jan 30, 2009)

Links is the only one I would trust. They are amazing. My dogs are their clients lol

The ceramic heater is good for nights. In the day a spot lamp or flood lamp is better. Turtles don't bask as much as tortoises but they still like a hot spot. It's important to keep the water at a cooler temp then the ambient air in their enclosure. I hope I used that term correctly lol. Cool spots are needed as well so they don't over heat. Lots of stuff to consider.
You could just keep them like most people do. I don't think you are one of them. You actually care enough to ask first. That's what most people do not do. They just jump in head first and hit a wall lol

HTH


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## ajdelosr (Jul 11, 2010)

I think I may go for the ceramic heater at night and the spot light with the uvb/a during the day then and just put these things on timers. I'd put the turtle in the same room I kept my saltwater tank and the water without a heater was at about 72-74 come morning which I believe is on the lower end of the preferred water temperatures since the basking area will most likely be in the mid to high 80's. Although saltwater holds heat more because of the salinity so the water will most likely be closer to 70 so a water heater will definitely be a must.


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