# Lighting Suggestions?



## Westender (Mar 24, 2006)

I've got a 100 gallon 6-foot Hagen tank that is currently planted with Val, crypts and a few others. I've got regular flourescents on it - 2 6 foot double polo units and 1 4 foot double - but I'm not getting great results. Part of that is doubtless because I have a glass top on the tank. I know that is anathema for planted tanks, but I have a 2-year-old running around in the house and I want her to stay safe (ie not drowned or electrocuted).

So, knowing all of this - and that this is currently a low tech tank, what is the advice people might give? I'm budget-impaired, although I do have just over $400 saved at the moment for a new lighting fixture, and I can try to rig something to keep my daughter away from the tank. 

Should I stick with my current lighting units? What sort of bulbs should I go for? What is affordable in the bulb range? Should I look to purchase a new type of fixture - compact flourescent perhaps?

I am interested in going the CO2 route at some point, although that will probably be in the future. I also do not have any special substrate in the tank, and I haven't been fertilizing it either.

I don't have a great deal of cash right now, but I'd like to build the tank gradually.


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## Pablo (Mar 27, 2006)

Westender said:


> I've got a 100 gallon 6-foot Hagen tank that is currently planted with Val, crypts and a few others. I've got regular flourescents on it - 2 6 foot double polo units and 1 4 foot double - but I'm not getting great results. Part of that is doubtless because I have a glass top on the tank. I know that is anathema for planted tanks, but I have a 2-year-old running around in the house and I want her to stay safe (ie not drowned or electrocuted).
> 
> So, knowing all of this - and that this is currently a low tech tank, what is the advice people might give? I'm budget-impaired, although I do have just over $400 saved at the moment for a new lighting fixture, and I can try to rig something to keep my daughter away from the tank.
> 
> ...


The reason your plants suck is the lack of Co2. You can use a glass top on a planted tank. reduces effectiveness but its ok. Adding more light may be a problem.

I stupidly had 2 fluorescents and added 2 more on a 35G and killed my plants and started an algae rampage.

More light without Co2 is not going to help matters.


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## Westender (Mar 24, 2006)

ok - I'll set up a few homemade CO2 generators for now, and I'll look at going whole hog.

Any suggestions from anyone on CO2? Any other suggestions on lighting? T5s or compacts or stick with what I've got?


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## wtac (Mar 17, 2006)

IMHO, it depends on the plant selection and the "lushness" that you are looking for. If you aren't fertilizing, the plants will not grow as well even with some sort of CO2/bicarb/SeaChem Excel supplementation for a carbon source.

Pablo is right that the "more light" that you have the more CO2, as well as ferts, the plants will require. 

The glass top does absorb a % of light wavelength intensity but IME, I haven't really noticed a difference in plant growth. IMHO, it's more for gas exchange for fish and the influence of European open top concept where the plants grow out of the aquarium.

Personally I would stay away from PC lights. The cost in annual bulb replacement is very high and there are other options such as T5-HOs. Though mainly used in the SW reef hobby, there are daylight/lower K rating bulbs available. Keeping on the "cheap and cheerful" side of things, HD/CT have T-12/10 Aquarium and Plant bulbs for a very reasonable price (<$10ea). I've used those in combination with GE Chroma75's with excellent results in the past.

HTH


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## Pablo (Mar 27, 2006)

wtac said:


> Personally I would stay away from PC lights.


 Then why did you toss me one ??
Am I honestly better off with VHO's or something? I'd like to keep it under 3 tubes if I have to go with fluorescents for fixture width...

Cuzz if I am I'll shell the cash out for it. I AM concerned @ the heat production (ew) that those PCs are going to do in summertime...


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## Westender (Mar 24, 2006)

Right then. So, looks like I'm looking at investing in a little more than lighting. I should have anticipated that I guess. It's a big tank, so with the cost of sugar, I bet it won't be long before I buy a CO2 setup. 

First thing, though, is I think I'll spring for some test kits.


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## wtac (Mar 17, 2006)

In Westender's case, a 6' lush planted using PC's one will use 4-6x95w PC bulbs. At LFS prices one is looking at $75-100/bulb -> $300-600 annually.

In your case Pablo, all you will need for your 50 gal is pretty much the strip that I gave you. Annual replacement cost is ~$100. Quite a substantial cost difference. I should have elaborated further on that...sorry .

You can drill a hole in the side and mount a computer fan to blow out the heat.


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## Plant Crazy (Mar 24, 2006)

You also may be able to save money by not replacing your PC bulbs or T5 bulbs annually. Although there is a slight decrease in lumens over time, some of the 'gurus' have mentioned that it's probably not that significant for plant growth, and advocate running them until they die. Still a controversial area.

Check out this link: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/lighting/33118-how-often-replace-pc-bulbs.html?highlight=bulb+lifespan


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## wtac (Mar 17, 2006)

<Bangs head on wall>

Your right. Spectrum shift and intensity loss isn't as much of an issue compared to SW reefs, which I have been dealing alot with in the past 3 months. Thanks for pointing out Plant Crazy .


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## Fish Dude (Oct 31, 2006)

I'm currently in the process of setting up a 125g and the light I bought for it is this one:

http://www.current-usa.com/novaextreme.html

I got the 4x54W version, but I'm still waiting for it to arrive. I've heard nothing but good things about T5 high-output and it's what all the reef tankers are using. The bulbs produce excellent par (Photosynthetically Active Radiation) and last twice as long - only problem for me at the moment is that I'm having trouble finding replacement bulbs in the area. They are still relatively new to the marketplace so they aren't as widespread as the T8/T12/CF bulbs, but that will change in time.


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## Westender (Mar 24, 2006)

After doing some more research, I've decided to do some more research. It looks like I'm going to head in the direction of VHOs, but I also need to do some work on my chemistry and I think I'm going to get a CO2 system.

Question is - where should I go? What should I expect to spend? I think I saw a link for CO2 systems someone posted, but I can't find it now.

Dominic


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## wtac (Mar 17, 2006)

Not many LFS carry VHOs for planted aquarium purposes nor T5-HOs but personally I'd go the T5-HO as there is less restrike (bulb-reflector-bulb) as the cross sectional area is much smaller. With the individual reflectors, there is more light getting into the aquarium per watt. T-12VHO's are slowly losing their market in favour of T5-HOs. Rumour has it that URI will be coming out with T5-VHO's.

I'll look into T5-HO bulbs for planted in the next week for you.


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## Aquatic Designs (Apr 2, 2006)

You can get 2 double T5 NO fixtures including bulbs(thats 4 bulbs in total) and a presurized CO2 system from myself for less then $400 all brand new with full warranty. You dont need HO that is for REEF tanks. Watt per gallon rule is a thing of the past.


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## Fishgovno (Aug 23, 2006)

Aquatic Designs said:


> You can get 2 double T5 NO fixtures including bulbs(thats 4 bulbs in total) and a presurized CO2 system from myself for less then $400 all brand new with full warranty. You dont need HO that is for REEF tanks. Watt per gallon rule is a thing of the past.


Watts per gallon is a thing of the past hmmm......
T-5HO fixtures are the wave of the future, T-5NO's are no no's and a waste of cash,kinda like buying compact Flo. that are NO what is the point.
If you have the time to do some research and reading lighting and Co2 are the most important things in a planted tank.When you start with spending time and money on a high tech planted tank there are many other things to consider like fertilization of both substrate and water column.
My only other coment on test kits is do not waste your time and money on cheap test kits (Hagen,tetra,etc.) salifert & seachem are the closest to a good test kit but if you can a Lamott (may be spelled wrong) or a colormeter is the best (also not affordable).There are many variables in your situation but a good Pressurized Co2 system should be at the top of your priority list,worry about the lights after you get the Co2 system.The reason I say get the Co2 first is if you up the lights first the plants up the intake of Ferts and minerals and with no supply or low supply of those=Algea Co2 first then ferts and lights next = Beutiful aquarium.


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## Fishgovno (Aug 23, 2006)

Almost forgot T-5NO keep those for the low light low tech planted tanks or for the fish only guys and gals.


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## wtac (Mar 17, 2006)

Aquatic Designs said:


> You can get 2 double T5 NO fixtures including bulbs(thats 4 bulbs in total) and a presurized CO2 system from myself for less then $400 all brand new with full warranty. You dont need HO that is for REEF tanks. Watt per gallon rule is a thing of the past.


I'm not sure if you read the initial post but the HYDOR Exclusive and 2x36" CoraLife Double T-5NO isn't going to cut it for a 125gal planted. Watt/gal is a general rule of thumb.


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## Westender (Mar 24, 2006)

I actually picked up a pressurised CO2 system secondhand, so I'm pretty happy there. I think that I will go the T5HO lighting before too long- just have to build up some cash. Actually, my tank is not a 125, - it's a 100 so the water column depth is somewhat less than the 125 (2 inches).

I've run pretty successful extremely low-tech planted tanks in the past, but eventually they all went out of wack. This time I'm going to do it properly, but I do have to take costs into account (which means that I'll do it slowly). I think that I am going to build a cabinet for the tank next and put in the CO2 system when I have that finished (the tank is on a wrought iron stand at the moment and the CO2 cannister would be far too accessible and attractive to my toddler daughter - I'll leave you all to consider the possibilities there!).

I'll try to take a photo of the tank this week and post it so you can see it as is (it's a little embarrassing). Right now, I've got wacks of val and crypts growing as well as Bacopa. I do seem to have a fair bit of the brown silicate algae lately.

What I need is a good book - does anyone have a recommendation?


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## Fishgovno (Aug 23, 2006)

What I need is a good book - does anyone have a recommendation?


Playboy,penthouse,swank (lol)
All joking aside try reading off of Tom Barrs web site that should help you out esp. with the ferts.


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