# DIY Refrigerated auto feeder



## Crayon (Apr 13, 2014)

This has been in the planning stages for about 15 months.

The original concept was to use a 1/2" water line pumped from the tank to inside the fridge with a Venturi feed inside the fridge for the food.

Except this felt like there were so many points of failure, and potential risks, that we kinda sat on the whole idea for the last year.

The issue is that the food would get pumped from the fridge, and without a way of clearing the line, food would sit in the line until the next time the doser turns on. Which means the food rots in the line. So we needed a simple way to move the food from a fridge, into the tank and not have any of it sit too long in the line.

Last fall, we found out that the new Profilux controller had a reverse function. Which meant we could run it forwards and then run it in reverse. This solved our delivery problem.

We bought a counter top electrothermal wine fridge from Canada Computers on Boxing Day sale. Cost about 100.00.










It holds 3 magnetic stir plates perfectly. (I only have two right now)










We drilled the top of the fridge (very carefully as we weren't sure where the wires controlling the fridge cooling system were in the shell of the fridge). As the plan was for three stir plates, we needed 3 holes for dosing lines and three holes for the wires to the stir plate.










I installed rubber grommets around the communication wire to prevent it from getting frayed when it passed through the metal housing.

Once this was done, program doser, mix food, calibrate really carefully, watch movie while corals are being automatically fed!!!

Ok, here's the deal.

I use Reef Nutrition phytofeast, ROE, Oyster Feast, some Docs Eco Eggs, frozen Calanus, and some powder foods like Reef Chili and a sea fan food. (Not all at once)

The food size can't be very large or it won't pass through the dosing lines. So no Larrys Reef Frenzy and no frozen mysis.

Here's a look inside the fridge where I can also store the food.










The trickiest part of this whole set up was calibrating the food and the reverse pump.

We calculated that if we wanted to dose 20 ml of food, and it took 65 ml to get the food to the tank, then we ran the pump for 85 ml. But the reverse should be 65 only so that we didn't add tank water to the food container in the fridge. We measured this with a graduated cylinder so that we could be as accurate as possible.

Right now, I'm using 500 ml wide mouth jam jars on the stir plates. They work pretty good, I just have to remember not to rinse the magnetic stir bar down the sink when I refill the container (which I did yesterday). Thankfully there was a clean out on the p trap.

I dose 4 x per day on my nps tank. 2 x per day on the other tank.

Not sure if this explanation is clear, so any questions, just ask.


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## cica (Feb 10, 2013)

Very nice setup, thanks for sharing.


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## notclear (Nov 5, 2011)

I have also been thinking how to automatically feed frozen food while I am away if I am to keep butterfly fish.

Gtareef has suggested to me to use milk cooler to store those liquid mysis shrimps. See example of the milk cooler in the following link:

https://www.jura.com/en/homeproducts/accessories/CoolControlWireless1l-CH-70584

The most difficult part in our discussion was how to keep the feeding line clean after each feeding. Now as you mentioned the new Prolifux doser has the reverse pump function, look like this will solve the problem.

My question is whether this milk cooler is a viable solution for just short term feeding while I am away for few weeks?


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## tom g (Jul 8, 2009)

*auto feeder*

very nice Cheryl , you the lady!!!!!!!


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## notclear (Nov 5, 2011)

Just wondering why are you worrying tank water will be going back to the container after feeding if you hang up the feeding line and not let it submerses into the tank water?


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## Crayon (Apr 13, 2014)

The Jura milk container would work as well, but I wanted to use magnetic stir plates, in order to agitate the food and get everything mixed really well before feeding.
The profilux controls the stir plates, so they turn on 15 seconds before feeding, and stay on for 20 seconds each time. This means anything that has settled is fully mixed again before it doses.

In terms of the dosing line, yes, I do have the end of the tube below the water level. I actually have them come down in front of the gyre. This way, the gyre acts as a broadcaster so the food doesn't all fall down in one corner of the tank.

I suppose if you used a feeding ring, and had the dosing tube come into the feeding ring, that would work as well. (If you didn't want to have the dosing tube under water)

Running the line in reverse, with just air, I think could cause stuff to stick inside the line and eventually clog up. I would worry that stuff might dry up inside the line. Keeping water inside th line at least keeps it moist so it doesn't get clogged.

Or at least this was my thought process.

Baby brine might be ok through the dosing lines, but I haven't tried anything larger than calanus yet.


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## wtac (Mar 17, 2006)

Just thinking on helping keep the tubing clean after the dosing head...

Add a T fitting and have a RODI flush from a RODI storage tank either manually with a valve or controlled by solenoid valves...hmmm


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## notclear (Nov 5, 2011)

Thought about this as well. There is still always a small length of tube with the food inside even the T is located very close to the food container.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## Crayon (Apr 13, 2014)

My little 100.00 thermo electric fridge cacked last weekend. Decided to do an upgrade. Will post pics with a story later on.
All I can say is, it was a fun weekend........(not!)
Involved a brand new traditional fridge with a compressor and refrigerant and a "pssssssssss"


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## Crayon (Apr 13, 2014)

We bought a little Magic Chef stand up fridge. It has a freezer and a traditional compressor. 
It was an excellent upgrade for the tiny thermo electric fridge that didn't even last two months. The fridge is 20" wide and 48" tall. Perfect!
Except how to locate the refrigerant lines? The biggest trick is to drill the side of the fridge between the lines, not through the lines.......
In theory this is a good idea.
So we set out with a centre punch, 1/8 drill bit, 1/4" drill bit, magnifying glass, opti-visor and patience.
The first three holes (of the six) went just fine.
The fourth hole............pssssssttttt.

Frack!!!

Despite having been so careful, we nicked the side of the line.

Option 1:
Buy a new fridge. Yeah, well that's a waste of 250.00......
Option 2:
Attempt to open the side of the fridge, find the nick, braise it and recharge the lines.

Alrighty!
Option 2, here we go.

Cutting the side of the fridge. Dremel and metal cutting blade.


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## Crayon (Apr 13, 2014)

Side of the fridge opened up.
These must be the return lines. They aren't copper. Well, option 2 just took a turn sideways.

Anyone know how to braise galvanized steel lines? Can these be fixed?

Second problem. No valve to recharge the lines.

Now what?

Help!!!!!


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## tom g (Jul 8, 2009)

*frig repair*

hey Cheryl.... there is a guy at work who does repairs to frigs but smaller ones 
what he uses is a spigot type valve u can get at princess auto basically it pierces the line like a RO line when u go inline on the pipe ..it has a charging poort ...where did u pierce the frig ,, relooking at pic right now ...


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## Crayon (Apr 13, 2014)

Pierced it on the galvanized line which we think is the return lines. Not sure how to seal the hole on the return line.
Thanks for the tip on the line piercing valve. Am going to check it out.


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## Crayon (Apr 13, 2014)

Well. After much research, phone calls, blah blah blah and other attempts to try and repair the damaged line, it was not going to be cost effective. The fridge used a gas which is not common and no hvac guy we found carried this gas. Even called the manufacturer, appliance companies. Yadyyadyya.
Got a new fridge.

This time, knowing where the lines are, and the fact that they can be located magnetically we changed the game plan. One big hole, measured between the lines with a magnet.

The green tape is for marking. The black pencil marks are the locations of the refrigerant lines (we hope). 1" diamond hole saw bit, very slowly. Angled in at the top, used an optivisor to see progress. Didn't cut the foam, just removed the steel shell.


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## Crayon (Apr 13, 2014)

Success! No pppppissssssssss.

Pulled the foam out with a flat head screw driver. Of course we drilled right where the electrical lines are for the inside light............doh!

But, I can deal with that. Drilled 6 small holes (3 for stir plates, 3 for dosing lines) on the inside pvc wall of the fridge.

Almost easy! Used a small bit to mark the holes and checked them to make sure they weren't close to the wires. Missed everything.

Here are the holes from inside the fridge.









Big hole on outside with all lines pulled through.


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## Crayon (Apr 13, 2014)

And the finished product.
This little fridge turned out to have added benefit of a freezer. So all frozen fish food, and refrigerated fish food can now be stored here.
Even have room for other stuff. Like beer. Or beer making supplies.


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## Crayon (Apr 13, 2014)

Fixed the photos. Hopefully now all the posts have photos.


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## wtac (Mar 17, 2006)

Awesome job


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## kamal (Apr 21, 2009)

such a cool DIY


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## cica (Feb 10, 2013)

I'm jealous


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