# Easy Automated Water Change System Advice



## Lorano (Aug 9, 2015)

Trying to figure out how to build a water change system that's as close to automatic as possible. Will be raising some juvenile discus so for optimum results going to be doing 60-80% water changes every day. Can't even begin to imagine how troublesome it would be to do this manually so trying to automate the process as much as possible. For refilling the tank with either aged or new and conditioned tap water, can use an apex controller or a timer to turn on a pump for a certain period of time. 

The problem that exists currently is the issue of how to automatically fill a storage container without always having to come down to wherever the container is and turn on a tap to refill it to replace the water that was used for a water change. I have a busy schedule and while I will do it if absolutely necessary, does anyone have any idea as to how I can have my water storage containers can automatically fill themselves up when the water that was in them has been used up? I have a utility sink close by so that is my water source.

Could I use a float valve somehow? Does a float valve have a limit to ho much water pressure it can withstand? What I mean is, once the water container is full, and the float valve stops the water flow, say the water source (in this case the tap on my utility sink) is still fully open, can the float valve withstand the full force of water from a fully open tap?

If you have any other ideas or methods as to how to automatically fill in the container, please let me know.


----------



## carl (Feb 11, 2010)

Have an overflow from your tank to the drain and then tap into your cold water line with a self tapping needle valve and then get a solenoid valve with an off default attached to a timer and then put a carbon filter and heater inline and you're good to go, set the timer for the desired length of time the solonoid is to be open , costs under $200


----------



## Lorano (Aug 9, 2015)

Not really comfortable with tapping a water line myself since I haven't done it before. Can I instead leave open my sink faucet, adjust it to the temperature I want, and attach the faucet through some hose, pipe or tubing to a solenoid? Or is it a bad idea to that?

Other idea I had after some research was to attach a pressure regulator to my tap and run a continuous drip system (somewhere along the system the water would go through some carbon in a reactor or something to remove chlorine etc.)

Another version of the above was to still use a pressure regulator but instead of a continuous drip system, attach the outlet of the pressure regulator to a float valve.

Any of the above any good?


----------



## TBemba (Jan 11, 2010)

Guys 240 gallon auto system.


----------



## Lorano (Aug 9, 2015)

Trying not to tap into water line right now. Getting a plumber to come by and advise me on how to do it myself or get it done professionally due to it being first time. Don't want to mess with water line without knowing what I'm doing first time around.

Any other ideas that could make use of a tap as a water change for a constant drip system or as the first post originally mentioned, a source to automatically fill up water containers as the existing water in the container is used for water changes? Problem is how to stop the water flow into the container after the container is full. Don't want to use solenoid or tap into water line yet.


----------



## Grey Legion (Mar 20, 2006)

Just get a pierce valve. Very easy to tap a line this way and very safe.
Any hardware store will have them and they are cheap.


----------



## Lorano (Aug 9, 2015)

I looked at piercing valves but while watching some youtube videos on how people use it many people advised against using it as it is not reliable long-term and can basically wear out and cause a small flood.


----------



## carl (Feb 11, 2010)

I got some self piercing needle valves that are over twenty years old without any problems


----------



## Grey Legion (Mar 20, 2006)

Lorano said:


> I looked at piercing valves but while watching some youtube videos on how people use it many people advised against using it as it is not reliable long-term and can basically wear out and cause a small flood.


Wow, I would not listen to them. They are used in millions of homes and offices. Any thing from ice makers to R/O systems to water coolers.

I used them at least 15 times in my life and have never had a single issue. Best part about them is you can turn them off and they seal the hole.


----------



## martelvis (Oct 31, 2015)

*auto water changes*

Why not try the KISS method. Slow drip out, slow drip in. It will take some time to sync up the two drip rates, but you will not have to worry about water pressure springing a leak. But the best part of this system is that it will be working 24/7, and you don't have to worry about the power going out.


----------



## Lorano (Aug 9, 2015)

Found a way to tap into water. Now the question is how the water changes should actually be done. Keep in mind that these tanks will have juvenile discus who are fed about 2-3 times a day so ideally daily water changes of 60-80% should be done. Possible methods are:

Method 1

a. Old water removal - Done automatically when new water is dripped in by an overflow that runs to a drain and has a drip emitter that has is adjusted to the exact same number of gallons as the drip emitter pouring new water into the tank so there is an equal amount of water coming in and going out.

b. New water coming in - Constant drip system with a carbon filter somewhere between the tap and the tank to remove chlorine etc. (anyone here use this method in their fish room and if you do, can you mention what brands of carbon blocks or loose carbon you use and for how long/ how many gallons before replacement? One concern I have is whether I should use a pressure regulator to reduce the pressure out of the tap (keep in mind this tap is one floor down from my tank in my utility room) to reduce the risk of whatever tubing that is used in the drip system like airline or irrigation tubing from rupturing from too much water pressure and back flow pressure once the water hits the drip emitter (which is essentially a small output fitting for those that don't know that can fit onto airline tubing etc. and has a valve to control the output of water) at the end of the tube feeding my tank.

Method 2. 

a. Old water removal - Done 1 of 2 ways - 

a.I. (Not sure if this is a good idea or even works, just a random thought so appreciate feedback) New water pumped into tank from storage container through pvc and into the tank with the pvc going almost all the way to the bottom of the tank. Pvc will have a check valve to prevent backflow (heard check valves are not always reliable so maybe this method is a bad idea). When the new water comes in at the bottom of the tank through the pvc the older water higher up in the tank will get pushed out through an overflow leading to a drain. Now the new and old water will get mixed to a certain degree and not make this a complete water change but is this method any good? Or is the same as a drip system where old and new water gets mixed together and then flows out?

a.II. Pump on a timer takes out a certain amount of water through pvc that is in the tank (cut to the level of water I want removed).



b. New water coming in - Tote/ barrel to age water for 24 hours and have chlorine etc. dissipate before a pump on a timer pumps the water into the tank (or can dechlorinate water with Seachem Prime if needed for quicker water changes instead of aging). Or a carbon filter can be used here too. Either way the water will be safe for the aquarium before or after it enters the water storage container. This method will involve a float valve which will fill the container back up as the water level drops when the water is pumped out into the tank.

Feedback and suggestions appreciated.


----------



## manunkind (Oct 5, 2017)

Seeing that you're in Mississuga, I'm curious to now how you're planning to overcome the biggest problem with automatic water changes- Chloramines. Your fish will go belly up if you pump in untreated Peel Region water.


----------



## Lorano (Aug 9, 2015)

I found this veteran discus keeper who uses aged tapwater in his fishroom. He said 24hrs is enough for the chlorine to dissipate. He has pictures of himself with other known discus breeders like Jack Wattley and he's breeding both angels and discus so I'm inclined to believe he knows what he's talking about. I'm going to try his method for a week or two with some type of tetra to make sure it works for me and if not I'll add a doser and program my apex controller to turn it on every day for a few minutes to dose Prime into my water reservoir just after my water change while the container is filling back up with new tap water so the eater is dechlorinated and ready for use.


----------



## manunkind (Oct 5, 2017)

Lorano said:


> I found this veteran discus keeper who uses aged tapwater in his fishroom. He said 24hrs is enough for the chlorine to dissipate. He has pictures of himself with other known discus breeders like Jack Wattley and he's breeding both angels and discus so I'm inclined to believe he knows what he's talking about. I'm going to try his method for a week or two with some type of tetra to make sure it works for me and if not I'll add a doser and program my apex controller to turn it on every day for a few minutes to dose Prime into my water reservoir just after my water change while the container is filling back up with new tap water so the eater is dechlorinated and ready for use.


It's all very nice if you are lucky enough to live in the area with chlorinated water. GTA, as far as i know, is using chloramine (at least in York and Peel regions) which stays in tap water for months.

Sent from my ASUS_Z01HD using Tapatalk


----------

