# Worth drilling a 46g bowfront?



## Doctor T (Apr 23, 2009)

So after doing some heavy pondering, I've decided go w/ a sump mainly for cosmetic reasons, (and well, I bought a used Red Sea berlin x2 turbo skimmer for dirt cheap, but it was missing the hang-on kit ). I'm also hoping it would be quieter, with all the gear stashed in the stand, but then I realize I would be introducing at least one more pump. 

Somewhere along the way I saw someone mention that any tank less than 75 is not worth drilling - no explanation why. Any idea on the rationale for that?

So I'm also considering a HOB overflow box. Any particular reason to stay away from using one? (Or a good reason to use one - I have one lingering in my head, someday I may upgrade this SW tank and convert it back to FW)

Also, would drilling a tank increase/decrease or do nothing for resale value?

Other considerations:
- tank is practically empty, so I figure, if I'm gonna drill it - might as well do it now
- My tank is a 46g Marineland. There is a sticker on the bottom saying "Tempered - do not drill", blah, blah... but then on the marineland web site, it says that the only tempered piece is the front panel.  

- Big Al's (where I bought the tank) said "the back panel for sure is drillable" and they will drill for me for $50. I know, more expensive than NAFB, but then since I bought the tank from BA, I kinda assume I'd be covered in case they break it. Fair assumption? (I suppose I should ask them to confirm)

Any thoughts welcome.

Thanks,
Rob


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## conix67 (Jul 27, 2008)

Ameek's got 20G with drilled in the back, working very well for him. I don't see why 46G cannot be drilled, I was thinking about that for a while myself for my 46G.

There were few people, including UTC, who were willing to lend a drill bit and you drill it yourself. There are methods available, look at UTC's fishroom build, or others. Of course, you're risking yourself of breaking the tank, but if done carefully you should succeed.

I personally don't like overflow boxes. They cost a lot for what it is, and if siphon breaks you could have overflow (although I haven't heard of that happening). I know someone at work who's been using overflow for years, but he regrets not drilling his tank (65G).

Typically only bottom is tampered glass on smaller tanks lik 46G. The back of your tank can be drilled for sure.

Drilling can increase/decrease resale value depending on buyer. If I'm looking for drilled, a drilled tank would have more value. If I'm looking for a tank for freshwater use, drilled tank would be a trouble. Overall, I'd leave it not drilled if I'm very concerned about resale.


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## Doctor T (Apr 23, 2009)

conix67 said:


> Ameek's got 20G with drilled in the back, working very well for him. I don't see why 46G cannot be drilled, I was thinking about that for a while myself for my 46G.
> 
> There were few people, including UTC, who were willing to lend a drill bit and you drill it yourself. There are methods available, look at UTC's fishroom build, or others. Of course, you're risking yourself of breaking the tank, but if done carefully you should succeed.
> 
> ...


Thanks conix67, I will have to review Ameek's thread again. That's a good thread, admittedly I just skimmed over the DIY plumbing sections at the time as I thought it was out of my scope - but now I'm seriously looking into it. Seeing that people are drilling even smaller display tanks than this one is encouraging too.

I'm not really concerned about resale on it anymore. Big Al's just put it on sale (LOL, always after I buy things  . At least I got the demo model/stand discount which was still better).

I also thought the pre-built overflow boxes seemed overly expensive.

Well, I'll keep mulling it over while I continue to research and hunt and gather parts...


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## ameekplec. (May 1, 2008)

You can make overflow boxes - they're relatively easy to DIY - mine cost me $30 in materials - $10 for the black acrylic (from the off cut bin at WPS) and a 8" 110 tooth finishing blade for the table saw, and $5 for weldon-4 to bond everything together. Check my thread for details or pm me if you want help.


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## UnderTheSea (Jun 2, 2008)

Check out my build thread and see how I drilled and put in the overflows. I like to use glass as silicone sticks to glass much better than acrylic.


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## conix67 (Jul 27, 2008)

ameekplec. said:


> You can make overflow boxes - they're relatively easy to DIY - mine cost me $30 in materials - $10 for the black acrylic (from the off cut bin at WPS) and a 8" 110 tooth finishing blade for the table saw, and $5 for weldon-4 to bond everything together. Check my thread for details or pm me if you want help.


I think Doctor_T meant continuous siphon overflow, the ones you can use without drilling to drain water down to sump. Of course you could build one using acrylic plates, but will require some serious cutting skills (need U shaped parts).


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## Doctor T (Apr 23, 2009)

conix67 said:


> I think Doctor_T meant continuous siphon overflow, the ones you can use without drilling to drain water down to sump. Of course you could build one using acrylic plates, but will require some serious cutting skills (need U shaped parts).


Yep, that's exactly what I was talking out. Sorry, I should've made that more clearer. They seem to sell for at least $100+ from what I've seen - which seems kinda ridiculous. I think I've seen it also referred as a "Weir" thingy, (but I keep thinking of the first Canadian who won the Masters). I think it requires another pump, doesn't look as nice as a drilled setup, and may even introduce other problems.

Looking like drilled is the way to go, but I want to reduce noise as much as possible somehow.

Ameek, UTC, I will review your threads tonight - thanks! Assuming I go drilled, I will likely have to build that "other" overflow box.


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