# Where to buy PVC glue??



## cb1021 (Sep 21, 2009)

Hello reefers

I'm buying a tank is drilled at bottom with plumbing in place. But it's not glued yet. What kind of glue do I need and where can I buy it?

Thanks

Btw what's this type of overflow setup called? The tank has a standpipe...


----------



## twobytwo (Oct 25, 2014)

First I did a light sanding of my pipes (outside pipe and inside the connector). Then, there's PVC glue from the hardware store. When I did my plumbing, I used primer to make sure everything sealed well.

https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.236-ml-purple-primer--pvc-handipack.1000821719.html
(ProTip = the purple primer can be messy!)

Make sure you twist the pvc once you press it into the connector/union to make sure the glue is even around the pipe.

If it's just one standpipe for draining, it's a pretty standard drain system - though depending on the setup, it could be "Durso" or "Stockman"
2 holes for drainage is typically "Herbie"
3 holes Bean Animal.

I've used a Durso for 1.5 years (2 holes = one drain, one return). But I'm moving in a few weeks and will probably redesign it to a Herbie and have my return hang over the back of the tank.


----------



## cb1021 (Sep 21, 2009)

Okay thanks a lot.

I looked up the drainage systemes you mentioned. Can't seem to pinpoint exactly what I have. 

THe tank I'm getting has only 2 holes drilled at bottom. both have stand-pipes vertical. One pipe is the inflow (top of tube has a cap that has grates. Like the attachment at end of Eheim cannister filters). The other pipe is the return which has 2 adjustable nozzles to direct flow...

There is no overflow box. 

HMMMMM


----------



## slipfinger (May 11, 2016)

Sanding is not required when gluing PVC pipe. Primer softens and cleans the pipe surfaces, allowing the cement to bond the two surfaces.

You can buy clear PVC primer and cement. I have seen the clear primer at Home Depot, I don't remember seeing the clear cement though. I know they sell the clear cement somewhere, we've used it at work just can't remember where we purchased it.


----------



## carl (Feb 11, 2010)

slipfinger said:


> Sanding is not required when gluing PVC pipe. Primer softens and cleans the pipe surfaces, allowing the cement to bond the two surfaces.
> 
> You can buy clear PVC primer and cement. I have seen the clear primer at Home Depot, I don't remember seeing the clear cement though. I know they sell the clear cement somewhere, we've used it at work just can't remember where we purchased it.


JJ Downs has clear primer and clear cement


----------



## planter (Jun 9, 2008)

get the primer with the cement never just use the cement on its own. I work for a pvc pipe manufacturer and i can tell you for a fact that using only the cement is asking for trouble. the primer and cement work together to weld the pipe together your not gluing the pipe your fusing the two pieces together. 

the proper way to weld pvc is to use the applicator with the primer on the male end of the pipe until you feel a little resistance. that resistance is the primer reacting with the pvc. its actually heating the pipe. then with another applicator do the same with the cement on the female end. then join them. you will not have a whole lot of time as the fusing process with not take very long. Curing on the other hand takes time. Make sure your working in a clear open space and that all of your fittings are ready to be joined. different manufacturers with have different heating/curing times but they are more or less all the same. read the instructions. Make sure you work in a well ventilated area. I'd wear a mask. There is some nasty stuff in those primers/cements.


----------



## planter (Jun 9, 2008)

I should also mention that primers and cements are not randomly coloured. They are colour coded to work with certain materials. Not all PVC is the same depending on what the pipe is designed for primers/solvents are made for those specific applications. when properly welded with the right primer and cement a welded joint is permanent and it will last decades.


----------



## slipfinger (May 11, 2016)

planter said:


> get the primer with the cement never just use the cement on its own. I work for a pvc pipe manufacturer and i can tell you for a fact that using only the cement is asking for trouble. the primer and cement work together to weld the pipe together your not gluing the pipe your fusing the two pieces together.
> 
> the proper way to weld pvc is to use the applicator with the primer on the male end of the pipe until you feel a little resistance. that resistance is the primer reacting with the pvc. its actually heating the pipe. then with another applicator do the same with the cement on the female end. then join them. you will not have a whole lot of time as the fusing process with not take very long. Curing on the other hand takes time. Make sure your working in a clear open space and that all of your fittings are ready to be joined. different manufacturers with have different heating/curing times but they are more or less all the same. read the instructions. Make sure you work in a well ventilated area. I'd wear a mask. There is some nasty stuff in those primers/cements.


Both female and male portions of the pipe need to be primed before gluing/cementing/welding. The curing time rule of thumb we use in one hour/in. So 1 hour for 1" pipe and so on. We follow this rule when gluing pipe that is under 150psi of pressure and have not had issues to this day. Knock on wood!


----------



## Orangutran (Oct 16, 2012)

Get the clear primer (cleaner) instead of the purple primer. Purple stuff will leave purple stains all over your plumbing, no matter how careful you are. I heard they only coloured it purple, so that house inspectors can see that pvc plumbing was done properly.


----------



## cb1021 (Sep 21, 2009)

Okay thanks.

Also which hole should I use for the inflow? See photos below. Only caveat is that if I use the right whole as inflow, it won't be a direct vertical path into the sump. I will have to put tubing at a 45* angle.


----------



## cb1021 (Sep 21, 2009)

Also one more question:

I have a 1584GPH Jeabao DC6000 pump. 

Since the inlet is gravity fed, is there a possibility that my pump will pump the sump dry? I'm not sure how if it's possible for the inlet to allow that much water into the sump. 

The inlet pipes are 3/4" ID.


----------



## wtac (Mar 17, 2006)

1584gph is based on 1" ID @0' head height. At , lets say, 5', it will give you ~1000gph according to their flow chart. You are going to lose a significant amount of flow dropping the pipe diameter to 3/4", fittings, LocLine I would guess you'll get max ~800-900gph range.

For 3/4" drain, 500-600gph flow is the max I would be comfortable with the way it is set-up.

Mucking around with pump flow rates will change the water level in the sump when the system reaches a steady state of incoming and draining water: 
- lower speed, water level rises in the sump
- increase speed, water level drops

If the pump drains the sump there are 2 possibilities

1) not enough water in the sump: you didnt determine your Max/Min levels
2) water is over flowing out and over the DT


----------



## cb1021 (Sep 21, 2009)

Okay thanks. I'm starting to understand this whole situation.

The pump I have is adjustable. So that means I need to adjust it so that it pumps up _less_ water than the max flow of the drain pipe right? Then I would use the height of the drain pipe to control the max amount that can flow into the sump.

I don't plan to use a weir. Also planning to use a "T" connector so that I can have two inlets with strainers just incase one clogs.

Btw - Where to buy schedule80 pipes? The stuff home depot sells is all white in color.


----------



## carl (Feb 11, 2010)

JJ Downs industrial plastic has everything, 4162361884


----------



## wtac (Mar 17, 2006)

May I ask why you are using SCH80 as one wouldn't need to use it 99.0-99.9% of the time. The bottom of the aquarium will crack before SCH40 pipe breaks.

If the existing pipes are SCH80, it has a narrower ID than SCH40 so expect slightly lower flow capacities.


----------



## cb1021 (Sep 21, 2009)

Oh yea. Thanks for the heads up about smaller ID.

I'm looking for SCH80 because the grey color...


----------



## carl (Feb 11, 2010)

JJ Downs has schedule 40 in grey


----------



## planter (Jun 9, 2008)

cb1021 said:


> Oh yea. Thanks for the heads up about smaller ID.
> 
> I'm looking for SCH80 because the grey color...


I might have some for you let me know what you need


----------



## Dis (Apr 16, 2010)

The jebao pumps are great because they can be adjusted. Once you have the plumbing setup turn it on and see how much flow you want. 

Was the tank previously used for saltwater?


----------

